Use this kit to replace the solenoid valve in your Dexter brake actuator (T4839100, T4500600, T4839120, or T4839000). Kit includes solenoid valve, cable ties, and draining tube.
Features:
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Clayton: Hey guys, how's it going Clayton here at etrailer.com. Today I have a Ranger Bass Boat. We're going to be taking a look at and I'll be showing you how to install a Titan Brake Actuator Valve System. So as you can see, this is what it's going to look like installed. Now what this is going to do is it's going to make it a lot easier when we're backing up. It's going to keep our trailer from being locked behind our vehicle, like if we're backing up or down a hill, the trailer sometimes we'll stop our vehicle.
And this is electronic, so you don't have to get out and put a key into your actuator. It's just going to know when you're backing up. It's going to be very easy to use and it's going to make your life a lot easier.So now that we've gone over the actuator a little bit, let me show you how to get it installed. To start our installation, you're going to take your cap off of your actuator. Then we're going to take our old actuator out.
You're going to need a set of snap ring pliers, and you're going to remove the snap rings on each side. So we're going to remove our snap ring, and then you'll repeat this same process for your other pins. So with our snap rings and flat washers removed, we can hammer out our pins. This might take a while if it's an older trailer, as the pins might be seized.After I've gotten our pins out of our actuator, we need to take off our stock lockout reservoir. So you're going to cut your zip ties between your hoses and your wiring.
Then we're going to take off this nut and pull the whole actuator out with the line attached. It's a good idea to lay cardboard or paper or anything on the ground to make sure that hydraulic fluid doesn't get on your floor. And you might have to hold this line so it doesn't spin on you. And with our hydraulic hose disconnected we can blow our breather valve tube off of our lock out reservoir. And then we'll remove our ground wire from the end of our hitch, then take off our actuator.So we put a wrench on the backside, on our nut.
We're going to take off the screw that holds down our ground wire. With our ground wire disconnected, we're going to pull out our actuator. Now we'll remove our actuator. It looks like we got half of it. And there's the rest of it with our hydraulic line on the back. So after we removed our lines going to the actuator, all we have left is this power wire and our hydraulic line coming off the back. We have to remove two Phillips head screws on the top of our reservoir to get the reservoir off of the trailer. So here are these two Phillips heads. We'll take these off, set these aside because we will be reusing them.Now our lockout reservoir is hanging on the line and then we'll take that line off on the backside right here. Our next step will be to remove this wire. We're going to cut it right here before the stock butt connector. So we'll snip that and let that dangle. And then we'll come back and take our reservoir off on the backside. So as you can see, our old lockout reservoir only has one wire and our new one has two wires. Our white wire is going to run to ground and our blue wire is going to run back to that wire that we cut.So in this customer's trailer, we're installing new brake lines. So we're going to run our new brake lines and then come back and install our new lockout reservoir. In this case, it runs right down our frame rail, so then we'll remove our old line and install our new line. And with our brake line cut about halfway, we can simply pull out our stock hydraulic line. And then move on to the back.So as you can see on our frame rail, there's a tube right here. Our stock line ran through this tube and this tube runs all the way down our frame rail to our rear axle. So we're going to take our new line, push it through our tube and pull it out on the backside. After you've run your brake line through your frame rail, make sure there's no kinks or scratches or anywhere it's going to keep that fluid from flowing. We're going to grab our actuator and make sure that our line is going to screw in there. In this case it does, so we're going to install this and finish up. We're going to take those two Phillips head screws and install them back into our locking reservoir. With those hand tight, we'll come back in and snug them down.Now we're going to put our hydraulic brake line back into our actuator. We'll be reusing the same line in this case. Now we have our line back on our actuator. We're going to put some fresh wire loom over this just to protect it from elements. So this is our factory wire. You can see there is a factory butt connector. We're going to snip that off as close as we can, put that to the side, take our red wire and strip it back. So we want to match up the length between our blue wire and our red wire. It's right about here. We're going to snip that off. Toss the extra to the side and strip back our blue wire. With both of our wires turned back, we're going to put on our heat shrink butt connectors. You can find those here at etrailer.com. We'll crimp that down and repeat that process for our red wire.With our butt connector crimped down, it's time so come in with our heat gun and melt our heat shrink. Make sure we get a good even spread on the heat gun. Just for some extra precaution I'm going to come back with some electrical tape and tape over our heat shrink connectors. After our power wires is ran, it's time to run our ground wire. I'm going to run our ground wire right here to just underneath our Phillips head, so I'm going to cut it right about here. I do like to leave a little bit extra just in case you ever have to come back for any reason, that way you don't have to run new wire. So with that cut, you're going to strip it back just a little bit. I'm going to spin our wire, and put it in our connector.After our ring terminal is on, I'm going to remove this Phillips head and put this right down on top of the washer and put the screw back in. We'll tighten down our Phillips. After our ground wire is secure, we're going to install our actuator and run our line to our lockout valve. Our next step will be to install our actuator. We want to remove our pins on the front and back. That way we can slide it into our trailer.So we're going to make sure to hold the bottom, that way the piston doesn't drop out. And I take our hoses and put those to the end of our trailer and feed them through the other side. Then we're going to carefully slide our actuator into the hitch. You might have to wiggle it around a little bit. Then if it's not wanting to go, you can come to the backside and pull your hoses. So after you've installed your tubing, you're going to come back through and cut your breather valve tube. We'll cut it right about there. We'll slide that back onto our breather valve. Then you're good to go.That's going to do it for a look at and installation of the Titan Brake Valve System..
Average Customer Rating: 4.8 out of 5 stars (13 Customer Reviews)
Use this kit to replace the solenoid valve in your Dexter brake actuator (T4839100, T4500600, T4839120, or T4839000). Kit includes solenoid valve, cable ties, and draining tube.Worked great, Perfect replacement for a Shor'lander tandem trailer circa 2007.
Fit and functioned perfect over factory 1 wire unit (no separate ground on original)
Got tired of getting out to manually lock out the trailer brakes to back up. After a bit of troubleshooting, I discovered the solenoid wasn't functioning. This solenoid was a direct replacement and the install went very well. As long as the 5-pin is connected to the truck, backing up is no issue now. If your trailer brakes lock up in reverse, the solenoid may be just what you need. The coil on mine was OK, but the valve itself wouldn't operate. The replacement came with the solenoid, bypass tube, and zip ties to secure the bypass tube. The only thing lacking to make it a complete package is a heat shrink wire crimp to splice the wire to the original.
Hard to find part but E trailer has it.
I needed the fitting to tie the rubber hose to master cylinder the picture showed the fitting on the master cylinder
Exact replacement, quick shipping and delivery, very satisfied
Part was as described. Great service.
Item ordered was received on time in good condition and works as described. All good.
Right part for a good price
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