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Curt Custom Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms

Curt Custom Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms

Item # C68FR
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Base Plates C68FR - Twist Lock Attachment - Curt
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Product Images

In Use/Installed

Customer Photos

Product Expert Mike S

Is this right for you? Product Expert Mike S says:

Yes, if you:

  • Have a Curt or Blue Ox tow bar
  • Value the protection of a lifetime warranty

No, if you:

  • Own a tow bar that isn’t from Curt or Blue Ox and don’t want to have to buy an adapter separately
  • Don’t like the look of a bulky crossbeam taking up space beneath your bumper
This custom-fit base plate kit lets you hook up your tow bar to your vehicle. The main body remains hidden for a clean, unobtrusive look when your vehicle is not being towed. Simple, bolt-on installation with included hardware. Call 800-298-1624 to order Curt base plates part number C68FR or order online at etrailer.com. Free expert support on all Curt products. Guaranteed Lowest Price and Fastest Shipping for Curt Custom Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms. Base Plates reviews from real customers.
  • All Info
  • Reviews (3)
  • Q & A (2)
  • Videos (2)
  • Photos
  • Why etrailer?

Curt Base Plates - C68FR

  • Removable Drawbars
  • Curt
  • Twist Lock Attachment

This custom-fit base plate kit lets you hook up your tow bar to your vehicle. The main body remains hidden for a clean, unobtrusive look when your vehicle is not being towed. Simple, bolt-on installation with included hardware.


Features:

  • Custom-fit base plates provide attachment points for tow bar
  • Twist-lock tabs for easy installation and removal as needed
  • Concealed main body for OE look and seamless integration with the vehicle
  • Sturdy, dependable design
    • Spreads towing force evenly to minimize weight placed on suspension
    • Constructed of welded steel
  • Simple installation - no welding required
    • Bolts securely to your vehicle chassis
  • Physically tested to gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR)
  • Precisely welded for superior strength and fit
  • Protected by a durable high-gloss black powder coat finish
  • Co-cured in a rust-resistant liquid Bonderite coating
  • Includes base plate and installation hardware (tow bar sold separately)
  • Compatible with Curt and Blue Ox tow bars


Specs:

  • Distance between brackets: 24"
  • Bracket height: 18"
  • Limited lifetime warranty


70105 Curt Custom Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms

Installation Details C68FR Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles




Video of Curt Custom Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Curt Custom Base Plate Kit Installation - 2020 Jeep Wrangler

Conner: Hey, everybody. Conner here today at eachtrailer.com. We're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Curt custom base plate kit here for our 2020 Jeep Wrangler.So here we have, the base plates installed on our Jeep. There are actually a few other things you may need to flat tow the vehicle. A few of these things are, number one, a supplemental braking system. This is required in most states.

It's not an actual requirement to flat tow, but many states do have a stipulation based on the weight of the towed vehicle. Some other things you'll need is a tow bar, which we already talked about, some safety cables, as well as a lighting system to power the lights on the vehicle to let others know behind you what your signals are.So this is what our base plate kit is going to look like installed on our Jeep. As you can see here, we have safety chain tabs on the outside of our crosstube here, which connects our two arms. Now what I really like about this base plate kit here is it has a nice, shiny powder-coated black finish. This really helps it blend in with our vehicle, and unless you really got down here, you wouldn't really notice the base plate kit installed.

It does look rather factory. And in addition to the aesthetics, the powder coat here is going to help it hold up from rust and corrosion so we don't get any issues with that over time.So, as we mentioned earlier, here is the tab. The hole here is where our safety chain loop and hooks are going to go. It's going to secure them on the outside here. They're not going to get in the way of anything else on our base plate kit here, or any of the other components we may do need to install to flat tow our Jeep.And if we bring our attention to the arms here, so you can see the arms here actually have a nice removable design.

And basically what that means is when we're not ready to tow or we're just driving around town after we've got to our destination, we're simply going to pull that plunger there on this pin, then we can rotate it outward. And then we have these nice little dust caps that come with our kit here, so we can make sure that we don't get any water or dirt into our base plate. As you can see here, this gives it a very nice clean, finished install look, which is how we would be rolling around town when we're not towing. But when we are ready to hook back up to our motorhome, hit the road again, it's actually super, super easy to install these tabs here. We'll simply insert them, rotate them, then we can press it forward to depress the plunger.

You can actually turn it either way to lock it in place. And there we go. Now we're ready to hook up our tow bar and hit the road.So, another great thing about this Curt custom fit base plate kit is that it'll work with either Blue Ox or Curt tow bars. Therefore, we have a wide range of selection to choose from depending on what needs. I personally really liked the Blue Ox tow bars. We have a great selection of these here at etrailer. So if you don't already have one, I definitely recommend you check these out. So most Blue Ox tow bars are going to have a three lug design that'll simply go on the outside of our pins here as well as one through the center, and then we just simply insert our pin there, and that's it. It's a pretty basic, simple, easy hookup.In regards to installation, I've done quite a few of these different base plate kits here, and I will say the Jeep is definitely the easiest vehicle to do these on. We do have to drill a couple holes, which is pretty minor overall, but other than that, it really just fits right up into position. It's pretty easy to install and it really doesn't take that long. You really shouldn't need any specialized tools, and you don't need a whole lot of mechanical know-how to be able to know how to do this. So let's go ahead and jump right into that installation and show you guys how it's done.The first step of our installation here, we want to come underneath to the skid shield here on our front bumper. We're going to have two bolts here on the outside we're going to need to take out using an eight millimeter socket.So now, if we come up to where the skid shield meets the front bumper fascia here, on the bottom side, we're going to see these push pin fasteners. There's going to be eight of them. We need to go ahead and take each of these out so we can remove this panel here. In order to remove them, and keep in mind there is going to be one on each side here, sort of hidden behind there, but in order to remove these, we're going to be using a trim panel removal tool. If you have a flathead screwdriver, that'll work as well. We're just going to get it up in there so we can wedge the center out, because once we remove the center section, the rest of it should come out just like that. So now we'll go ahead and repeat this process on our remaining fasteners. With our final push fastener removed, we should be able to remove the skid shield like so.Now we have a metal shield here that's held in place with the two bolts here, one on either side. We're going to take a 16 millimeter socket. We're going to go ahead and remove those now so we can remove this metal shield.We can go ahead and set this aside.So now we need to come to the top of our bumper here directly in front of our grill. If we look down, we're going to see we have two push pin fasteners here, one on either side. We need to go ahead and remove those. Going to take a trim panel tool there and try to get the center of the fastener pushed up. Then we should be able to remove the rest.So now we're going to come over to the passenger side here. If we identify where our fog light is, and we look directly behind that under the bumper, we should see this gray connector here. We're going to go ahead and pry it off from the frame. Just like so, and then what we're going to do is we're actually going to disconnect it here. We're going to see a tab. We needed to press there in the center. Once we press that hard enough, we should be able to separate these two pieces here. Just like that.So now we're going to take an 18 millimeter socket and we're going to have eight nuts in total, four on each side, holding the front bumper fascia to the vehicle's frame here. So here's what these nuts look like. We're going to have two on the inside and two on the outside, for a total of four on each side. So let's go ahead and get those out now. We're going to be using a breaker bar to free them, as they are torqued down pretty tight. Once we've broken them all free, we can come back with our impact and zip them the rest of the way out.So now with our final bolt removed, we're going to come here to the top. We're going to grab both of these hooks here. We should be able to pull the bumper out, straight and away from the vehicle.So now we're going to come to the outside by their frame here. We're going to see this bracket here, which attaches to our bumper beam. There going to be a bolt here we're going to remove with a 16 millimeter socket. We're going to need to do this on both sides.So now that we have the bumper off, we're going to turn our attention to our bumper mounting brackets, which we see here directly attached to the frame. What we need to do is we're going to take a look at these bottom oblong hole here in the center. We're going to be using this hole to install our base plates. We need to get the head of our carriage bolt through that hole, as well as our spacer block, so we're going to need to enlarge this hole here on both sides of the vehicle. In order to enlarge it, you have a couple different options. If you have a step drill bit, that'll work for this, or a regular drill that you can use to sort of wall it out there. However, we're going to be using a burr bit that you may not have at home, but it's a little bit more of a specialized tool. We're going to go ahead and use that now to go ahead and open up this hole, then we'll repeatedly test it, our hardware here, to see when we have enough.So we've got our hole enlarged here. Let's go ahead and check the fitment of our spacer block, and then our carriage bolt.Now that we know we can get both of those in there, the last thing I'm going to do is before I repeat this process on the other side, I'm going to take a paint marker here. I'm just going to coat that bare metal so we don't have to worry about any rust issues down the line.For this next part here, we've already got both of our holes enlarged to the proper size. We can actually go ahead and set the base plate on the frame of the vehicle. Before we do so, we're going to take our M10 hex bolts here, along with our 3/8 inch diameter conical tooth washers, we're going to be using these to secure the base plate for our first step. They're actually going to go in the holes that we removed the bracket from earlier, which are those right there. So let's go ahead and set the base plate on the position now and secure it using these holes here on the side.So now with an extra set of hands, we'll go ahead and lift the base plate up into position and secure it here with our bolt.Before we start drilling, attaching, and securing our base plate to the frame on our vehicle, we need to get a level here and make sure it's as level as possible. That way we drill our holes, everything lines up and it's sitting nice and straight. So we're actually going to take a bubble level here to make sure it's pretty dead on now, but if we did need to make some minor adjustments, we could just loosen those bolts and move our cross tube up or down slightly.So we're going to be drilling out our top rearward hole here in our base plate, into the frame. We're using the base plate as a template. So the final size of the hole needs to be is going to be in half inch. So right now, we're going to take a half inch drill bit. We're just going to get our hole started. The tip of this drill bit will sort of make like a pilot hole for us, and then we can come back with a smaller drill bit and work our way up to the final size. Now keep in mind, we aren't going to be going all the way through the frame there, so you want to be careful when we do push our drill through.You can see there, we have a pretty good pilot hole drilled. Now we're going to start with a smaller drill bit, drill all the way through, and then work our way up.So here's what our hole is going to look like when we have it drilled to the final size here. Once that's done, we're going to take a paint marker here, and we're going to try to coat the inside of that metal as best we can, so we don't have to worry about any rust or corrosion issues.So now that we have our holes drilled out, we need to go ahead and grab one of the spacer blocks that come in our kit here. And then we're going to go ahead and loosen this bolt, which we tightened earlier.We want to loosen it enough so we can get our spacer block there between the base plate and the frame. And then we want to slide it over into position to line everything up. Once we get it in the correct position, we're going to go ahead and take one of our carriage bolts here and just try to stick it through the spacer block and the hole in our frame to ensure everything's aligned properly. Once so, we're going to go ahead and tighten down this bolt.I'll go ahead and repeat this process on the other side.So now that we have our spacer block into position, we can go ahead and begin inserting our hardware. We're going to be grabbing the longer two and a quarter inch carriage bolt that comes in our kit here, along with a spacer block and a flange nut, and then our fish wire. What we need to do is we need to take the coiled end of our fish wire, feed it through that hole there, and get it to come out this larger hole that we drilled out earlier. So let's go ahead and do that now. In order to get the fish wire to go the way we want, I think if we put a slight bend in the line there that'll help us maneuver inside of that frame rail.So if we take a look in the access hole there, we can just barely see that fish wire. We're going to reach in here with some needle nose pliers, and grab it, pull it the rest of the way out. Now we're going to go ahead and stick on our spacer block, followed up with our carriage bolt. We'll shove both of those back into the frame and try to pull it out our hole there.So we can take our pull wire off here. We're going to pin it against the side of the frame there, so we don't push it back in, and we can go ahead and start our flange nut. Go ahead and repeat this process on the other side.So I know the instructions don't say anything about the use of Loctite, but pretty much every base plate kit we've installed here at etrailer, we've been using this red Loctite, so we're going to go ahead and recommend it to you guys as well. We're just going to put a few drops here on this bolt before we torque the nut down. We're going to do that for all of the remaining fasteners during this install.Now we're going to torque our two outside bolts here to the specifications in our manual. We're going to be using a 19 millimeter deep well socket for this.Now that we have the two bolts on the side torqued, we can go ahead and remove these. We're going to have another one on the other side as well.So now once we have our bolt removed here, we're going to take our factory bumper bracket here, we're going to come underneath here and we're going to slide it up into position, and align it with the two holes in the front there. Then we can re-secure it using our bolt that we just removed earlier, but before we do so, I'm going to go ahead and apply a little bit of Loctite. Now we'll go ahead and screw this in, and then torque it down to the specifications in our instructions.We do want to make sure while we're tightening it, that we are lined up here in the front.So now we want to come to the lower most hole here on our base plate kit here. As you can see there, our hole is already almost lining up with a factory hole in the frame, but not quite. So we need to come back here with a half inch drill bit and drill this out. We're going to do this on both sides.Now we'll go ahead and test fit our bolt. So once we know that it's cleared, we can go ahead and spray paint this hole to clean up any raw metal. We'll go ahead and repeat this process on the other side.So now we're going to take a piece of our fish wire here, and we're going to be installing it in this lower most hole here that we just drilled out. We're going to take the coiled end, slip it through there, and we should just be able to angle it straight down. There's a little bit of a lip there, so we may need to adjust slightly, but once we get it through there, we're going to come back with our spacer block, and then our carriage bolt, and thread that on, then we can push it back up into the frame, and pull it through.We can go ahead and remove our fish wire here. And don't forget before we put our nut on here, just can take some Loctite and apply it to the threads. It's probably a little bit more than you need there, but just a little bit should be fine.Now we'll go ahead and repeat that process and the other side, and then torque them both down.So now the next thing we're going to do is we're going to take our little loops here and our safety cables that come with our kit, we need to secure around the frame of the vehicle and around our base plate. We're going to have one on each side. This bottom hole here is actually what we're going to use to secure the cable to our base plate. So now we just need to find a spot on the frame that's going to be free of any moving components. If we come around the backside here, we're going to have a little pocket. We should be able to poke it out here. Then we're going to bring that around and then attach it down here with our loop. Now we can go ahead and tighten up our nut here.We'll come back with a set of channel locks here. We'll just snug that down. But as you can see here, in this location, we're not going to interfere with any of the moving components, such as the sway bar or a rack and pinion here, and we're nice and secure. We're not going to be in the way of any of our fasteners, so that should be perfect. We'll go ahead and repeat that process on the other side.So now with our safety cables secure, we can go ahead and re-install our factory bumper here.Now that we have our bumper secure on the bumper beam, we can go ahead and re-install it using our factory hardware in the reverse order that we removed it.The next thing we're going to do is we're going to go ahead and reinstall our metal shield here, just held in place with the factory bolts, one on each side. So we've already done that, but it's super easy just to sit in place. There's going to be a tab at the top we need to line up here, and we may need to push our safety cables back to make for clearance.So the next thing we're going to do is we're going to take our bottom splash shield here. You can see we've already had it marked. We went ahead and tried to test fit it on the fascia there and sort of got the general idea of where we need to trim along with using our instructions for that as well. So now we're going to go ahead and cut both of these slots out. You have a few different options here. You can use a Dremel tool. Chances are you probably don't have one of these, a set of tin snips would work perfectly for this as well, but let's go ahead and make our cuts.Now that we have our cut made, we're just going to go ahead and clean up our rough edges here. If we have a file or if we used a Dremel, we should just be able to knock these off by hand. We'll go ahead and repeat this process on the other side here and then test fit it on the fascia.And once we've ensured it's going to clear, we'll go ahead and secure it using our factory hardware.Keep in mind, we are going to have two extra fasteners since we did cut out one of the attachment points on each side here to clear our base plate.And last but not least, we're going to have a couple eight millimeter screws here.And that's going to do it today for our look and installation of the Curt custom base plate kit here for our 2020 Jeep Wrangler.


Customer Reviews

Curt Custom Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms - C68FR

Average Customer Rating:  5.0 out of 5 stars   (3 Customer Reviews)

This custom-fit base plate kit lets you hook up your tow bar to your vehicle. The main body remains hidden for a clean, unobtrusive look when your vehicle is not being towed. Simple, bolt-on installation with included hardware.

- C68FR
by:

Put my new curt baseplate on my JL today. Watched the etrailer install video a few times. Then watched as I did the install. Easier than I anticipated. The video is a life saver.



- C68FR
by:

Easy install.



- C68FR
by:


3
3

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Info for this part was:

Employee Lindsey S
Edited by:
Lindsey S
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Chris R
Video by:
Chris R
Employee Wilson B
Updated by:
Wilson B
Employee Mike S
Updated by:
Mike S
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G
Employee Kristina F
Written by:
Kristina F

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