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  1. Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring
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  3. Custom Fit
  4. Trailer Hitch Wiring
  5. 4 Flat
  6. Powered Converter
T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector

T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector

Item # 118715
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Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring

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Tekonsha Custom Fit Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring - 118715
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Quickly and easily install a 4-way trailer connector on your vehicle with this custom wiring harness. T-One connector plugs directly into existing wiring. Powered ModuLite reduces strain on wiring system. 1-800-940-8924 to order Tekonsha custom fit vehicle wiring part number 118715 or order online at Free expert support on all Tekonsha products. Guaranteed Lowest Price and Fastest Shipping for T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector. Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring reviews from real customers.
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  • Reviews (126)
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  • Videos (3)
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Tekonsha Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring - 118715

  • Custom Fit
  • Trailer Hitch Wiring
  • 4 Flat
  • Powered Converter
  • Tekonsha

Quickly and easily install a 4-way trailer connector on your vehicle with this custom wiring harness. T-One connector plugs directly into existing wiring. Powered ModuLite reduces strain on wiring system.


  • Provides a 4-way flat trailer connector at the back of your vehicle to power your trailer's signal lights
    • Compatible with 5-pole, 6-pole and 7-pole adapters (sold separately)
  • Connects quickly and easily
    • Locate connection points behind tail lights
    • Plug in T-connector
    • Connect hot lead to car battery
  • Includes ModuLite power module that connects directly to battery to avoid overloading vehicle's electrical system
  • Constructed of 16-gauge bonded wire
  • Comes with dust cap for 4-way flat connector


  • Maximum amperage:
    • Stop/turn lights: 4.2 amps per circuit
    • Tail lights: 7.5 amps per circuit
  • 1-Year limited warranty


This custom-fit T-connector plugs into your vehicle's wiring harness, which is located behind the driver's-side and passenger's-side tail lights. You will have to remove the tail light assemblies and some interior paneling to access this harness. Once you've plugged in the connector, run the red hot lead up to your car battery. Connect the included fuse holder, and then connect the fuse holder to the positive terminal on your battery.

T-One Connection Location Points Behind Tail Lights

Once installation is complete, the 4-way connector will be stowed in your rear cargo area.

It is recommended that you use a small amount of grease on all electrical connections - the plugs on your automobile and the 4-pole connector itself - to help prevent corrosion.

ModuLite Powered Tail Light Converter

A ModuLite power module is built into this T-One connector. With a ModuLite, your trailer's lights will be powered without overloading your vehicle's electrical system. Because the module draws power directly from your car's battery and bypasses the electrical routes that are used by a basic wiring harness, there is virtually no draw on your tail light circuits.

118715 Tekonsha T-1 T-Connector - 4 Wire - Modu-Lite Converter Included

Installation Details 118715 Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

California residents: click here

Video of T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness Installation - 2017 Ford Escape

Speaker 1: Today on 2017 Ford Escape we're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with a 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector. That's gonna be part number 118715. So, here's what our wiring is gonna look like once we have it installed. And it's gonna provide us with a 4-Pole flat trailer connector, giving us all the lights we need to safely get down the road, like our taillights, turn signals, and our brake lights.Typically this is designed to stay on the inside of the vehicle, but we wanted to have it down here by our receiver tube, that way it would be ready for us when we tow. There is a grommet on the inside that we can easily route the wire down, and then just route it over to the hitch here. And use the dust cover to attach it so it doesn't drag the ground.Our kit's not gonna require any kind of cutting or splicing into our factory wires.

We're gonna have a T-Connector that's gonna plug in line with our circuits, so that we'll get the appropriate signal at the back of our trailer. Our kit is also gonna be fuse protected so when we run our wire up to the battery for our power, we'll have a fuse there to make sure nothing happens. Now, there's also gonna be a module box that's gonna convert all the signals into a working signal for our trailer, and protect our vehicle, making sure if there is any problems on the end that it doesn't back feed into our Escape.If you do leave the wiring on the inside typically it'll store right under here by your spare tire. Then whenever you want to use it, you drop it out the back hatch, making sure you stay away from the latch area. The weather stripping here will give it enough cushion that it won't get damaged.

Then we can close our hatch and hook it up to our trailer.So, now that we've seen what our wiring looks like, and gone over some of the features, let's show you how to get it installed. To begin our installation, we're gonna want to open up the rear hatch. And on either side, just to the inside of where our taillight is, we're gonna have these two plastic plugs. We're gonna need to pull those out so we can get to the fasteners behind there. Just take a flat head screw driver, and you come behind it and pop it out.

Then behind those, we'll take an 8 mm socket and pull out the two bolts that are holding our taillight in. Now, when removing your taillight, you're gonna want to kind of work it loose a little bit. And if you can, come underneath this section, and we want to pull straight back.Once we have our taillight out, we'll come to the connector, and there's a little tab that's gonna be towards the outside. Just push on that, and we can disconnect it. And we'll set our taillight aside and do the same thing for the other side.So, with both taillights removed, we're gonna go ahead and remove the floor covering.

We can set this panel aside. And we're gonna need to pull up the styrofoam that's on either side. Now, on the inside of that styrofoam, there is gonna be two push pin fasteners. So you're gonna want to use a trim panel tool or a flat head screwdriver. Come underneath it. And pry it out. And sometimes, if you kind of lift up on the panel, and you can come underneath the entire push pin and lift up that way, that way you get a little bit more leverage and a little bit more surface area pulling on it. So we're going to remove the other side the same way. Again, you just want to be extra careful because these are known to break rather easy, because they are extremely long and rather hard to get out. But, once we have them both out, go ahead and pull both of those panels out and set them aside.Next we're gonna have to pull this threshold piece off the very back. If we look towards the outer edge, we're gonna have a push pin fastener, and then towards the very outside edge we're gonna have a screw that's holding it in. I'm gonna take a T-25 torch bit and we're gonna pull that screw out on each side. Then for our push pin fastener, I'm gonna take a trim panel tool, get behind the push pin and pop it out. And we'll do that for both sides. And with those removed, there's some clips that are holding it in place, but we're gonna want to reach underneath. Pull up, and it will release those clips, and then we can set it aside.Now we're gonna need to get access behind this panel so we can get to the wiring that goes to the outside. So, we'll just grab out panel. You may need to move the weatherstripping a little bit, and starting at the bottom, we're just gonna start working our way up. And again, there's some clips back there. You just want to pull and it should release those. And we'll be able to have enough room if we just kind of flex that panel. Just be careful not to cause any damage by flexing it too much. Now, we've moved to the outside where that rubber plug is with the wire for our taillight is. Just gonna pull that plug out. And that'll give us a clear shot to go from the inside and bring our wires through.So you want to grab your wiring harness at this point, and we're gonna find the T-connector with the brown and yellow wires on it. We're gonna pull that panel back, and we're gonna take the connectors, and we're gonna route 'em until we can get through that hole. So, if you just want to reach in, then on the outside, we can push a little bit of the connector through and help guide it through. And we just want enough of that wire to come out so we can connect to the taillight wire.Now, before we connect everything up it's always a good idea to put a little bit of dielectric grease inside the connector. Just gonna take some, fill up the connector a little bit. Then we can find the matching plug. Plug it in, and make sure it locks in place.Now, since we want our wire to pass through the grommet, what I'm gonna do is I'm just gonna cut a slit in my grommet so that it'll be more towards the center. We can slide the wire in. Then we can push our grommet back in place. I always like to push it in more than I need to, then kinda pull it out to help it seat all the way. Then to help seal that up, I'm gonna take a little but of silicone and I'm just gonna cover up the spot that I put the cut in.So, now we're gonna take the T-connector with the green and red wire, and we're gonna run it along the threshold here, and over to the passenger side doing the same thing. Pulling that grommet out and sending the connector out. So we can take our panel, loosen everything up. And pull that plug out, then route our wire up.Now, back on the driver's side we're gonna have to find a spot to mount our converter box, as well as ground our unit. Now, if we look up right where the two panels meet each other and in a little bit, we're gonna have a factory ground right here. So, I'm gonna take an 8 mm socket. We can take our ground wire, pass the bolt through, and then we'll reinstall it. All right, you just want to make sure that that factory ground wire is still on there whenever you put the nut back in.Now to mount our converter box we have a few different options. We can use the eyelet on top to zip tie it around something, or we can use the double-sided foam tape. You just want to make sure that the area where you're going to be mounting and the box is clean before you put the tape on. So, I'm just gonna take a rag with some rubbing alcohol on it. Clean off the converter box, and then find a nice flat spot that we can mount the box. Let's go on this little ledge right here, it would be out of the way. So, then we can take our double-sided foam tape. Peel the backing off one side. Stick it right on the back of the box. We'll pull the other side off, and then we'll just stick it straight on to that flat surface.Now, the black wire is gonna be our power wire. So we're gonna need to attach the length of wire that they provide us in our kit and run it up to the battery. Now, in the kit it is gonna give you some butt connectors to get that connection made. However, I'm gonna be switching this out for a heat-shrink butt connector. That just gives it a little bit better protection. Now, we do have these available here at as well. So the wire coming off the converter box is already stripped. So, I'll take my heat-shrink butt connector, slide it over. And I'll crimp it down. Then we can take one end of the length of wire and we'll strip it back, and crimp it in to the other end of our butt connector. To shrink down my butt connector, I'm gonna be using a heat gun. But, if you're using a flame, like a torch or a lighter, you just want to be extra careful not to burn or char the wire or the connector itself.So now we're gonna have to run our black wire up to our battery. So we're gonna come to this plug right here. It's gonna be just to the left on the inside right by the wheel well on the bottom of the floor pan. Let's go ahead and pull that plug out, find the end of our wire, and we're gonna pass it down through the opening. We'll just feed all the wire down until we can either reach it at the bottom, or it's all fed through. Now, since we have this opening here we do have the option of routing our 4-pole down there as well. Or we can keep it inside. It's really up to you. It is designed to stay on the inside. But, if you're rather have it by your hitch, this would be a good spot to go down. So we'll go ahead and send our 4-pole down. Just want to make sure you get all the wire through the hole, and it doesn't get stuck.Then again, just like we did with the grommets up top by our taillights, we're gonna go ahead and cut a slit to about halfway in the center or so. We can pass our wires through, and we can put the plug back in place. And again, it's not a bad idea to seal it up with some silicone so we don't have to worry about any kind of leaks, or fumes getting in from the outside.So with all the wires in place we can go ahead and start working on putting the panels back in. You just want to make sure you line up the clips. Make sure they're fully seating back in place. You may have to pull that weatherstripping out a little bit. And we'll put the other panel back in as well. Then we can put our threshold back in place. Just want to make sure that you get that wire away from the clips so that the clips aren't gonna come in and smash them or cause any damage to that wire. So, I'll just pull it as close to the weather stripping as I can. We have our threshold in, and again, just make sure you get that weatherstripping on the right side of it. And with the panels lined back up, we can put the fasteners back in as well. Gonna put our foam trays back in, as well as the push pins that hold it in place. Then we can put the floor covering back in.We can grab our taillights, we can take the connector, and we're gonna plug it in. Now, there's very little room back here, so you just want to find a spot to where the connector will fit, and we can still get our taillight back into position. So, we'll line it up, making sure everything is in the correct spot. You may have to kinda work at it back and forth to get that connector in the right spot. But, once we have it in, and positioned correctly we can put our hardware back in.So, here's where our 4-pole and our power wire came out of the bottom here. Now, our 4-pole we're gonna want to route towards out hitch so we can secure it out there so it will be ready for us. And our black wire, we're gonna want to run up toward the front of the vehicle to where we can connect with the battery. Whenever we route this though, you want to stay away from any moving parts, or anything that may damage it, like heat as well. So, I'm gonna go ahead and run this, and then I'll show you how I routed it.So, my power wire, I ran towards the front. And once I got to the axle, and the cross-member here, I went over and came back down from behind this panel here. Then I went underneath this panel, and it makes it a lot easier if you remove these three nuts. There's gonna be three 10 mm nuts. If you remove those three you can pull the panel down, feed your wire in. Then I had it come out right here. Now, I went ahead and went up to the top of the engine bay, and real close to the firewall, I just sent an airline tube down so I could bring my wire up. And whenever you do that, whether you're using an airline tube or a coat hanger, you just want to stay away from your moving parts like the steering or the axles or any of that. But, I'm gonna take my wire, I'm gonna put it in my airline tube, and also just put electrical tape on it to secure it, so I can go up top and start pulling everything up.Pull my wire up until all the excess is up here. And it's not a bad idea to double check and make sure there's not wad of wire underneath, because we don't want to get it caught when we start driving down the road. Now, just to make sure it isn't gonna fall back down, just for right now, I'm just gonna wrap it around here so it'll hold itself. Then if we come to the panel right next to our brake reservoir, lift up, that's gonna be our battery cover, and we'll expose the positive side of the battery right here.So, now we have our wire up. I'm gonna bring it over towards the positive cable here. I'm just gonna take a zip tie and go around it. That way it'll keep it in the engine bay and I don't have to worry about it falling back down. Our kit is gonna come with a fuse holder, so our circuits are gonna be fuse protected. It's one big loop. So we just come to the middle section. We're gonna cut that in half, and we'll strip back both ends. On one end we'll take another one of our butt connectors and we'll crimp it in place. Then we can give ourselves a little bit of extra, because obviously we're gonna have plenty of wire to reach the battery. But, it never hurts to have a little bit of extra, and we can just tuck it away. So, we'll cut the excess black wire off. Strip back the end, and that'll get crimped in to that butt connector. On the other end of our fuse holder, we're gonna take the ring holder that's in our kit, slide it over the end of our stripped wire, and crimp it down.Now, on the positive post of our battery we're gonna have that nut on top. So, you're gonna wanna grab a 10 mm socket or wrench. We'll loosen it up. Now, this nut probably won't come all the way off, because the crimp the end of the bolt. So, what we're gonna do to make our terminal fit is we'll cut a section out to where it's more of a C shape, but big enough to where it'll go around the bolt still. Just go underneath that washer. Terminal will make full contact with that. Then we can tighten that nut back up. Now we can take our 15 amp fuse, put it in the fuse holder, and we can tuck all the excess wire and the fuse holder down out of the way. And we can replace the cover on the battery.Now all we have left to do is to test our wires. I'll go ahead and remove the dust cap. I'm gonna be plugging in my 4-pole tester. So, now I'll get an extra set of hands, and they'll run my lights and I can verify that they're all working properly. So, if I turn on my headlights we can see that my taillight function's working, as well as the left turn signal, the right turn signal, and my brakes. All we have left to do now is hook up to our trailer and hit the road.That'll finish up your look at the Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector, part number 118715 on our 2017 Ford Escape.

Customer Reviews

T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector - 118715

Average Customer Rating:  4.9 out of 5 stars   (126 Customer Reviews)

Quickly and easily install a 4-way trailer connector on your vehicle with this custom wiring harness. T-One connector plugs directly into existing wiring. Powered ModuLite reduces strain on wiring system.


This is my 3rd or 4th purchase with etrailer!! It seems like if they carry a product, they offer the lowest price you can find on it, & that’s a big reason I’m a repeat customer. Also everything is always in my shipment & if written instructions aren’t the easiest, they will link a video in an e-Mail. Everything that helps tow anything with my vehicle came from etrailer & when I needed tire chains, I saved over $50 on same exact brand set at my local Les Schwab.
Wiring of the vechicle in this particular purchase can be difficult due to tight spaces to get wire thru, but instructions were on point.

Like a champ!!
Tucker - 04/18/2022

2017 Ford Escape

Installed trailer hitch and wiring harness on a 2017 Ford Escape with some minor issues. The trailer packaging on delivery was a little lean and the corners had the paint scraped off. I called in to etrailer and they agreed to credit me the cost of a can of paint which I would need anyway. This happened within minutes of my call!

I install it myself with no help and without jacking up my car! Installed one rear side 1st (passenger side) and then the two bolts on the driver side and then back to the front bolts on the passenger side. Two issue I had with the install:
1. The trailer was about 0.5" too narrow so I tapped with a mallet and expanded enough to install
2. One wire guide for the bolts broke on the last bolt. It would be a good idea to provide some extra wire with the install kit! I have to fish out the bolt and washer and create a replacement wire. I used bracelet type wire for this. Also an auto flexible magnet tool from an auto parts store with used for this purpose of fishing out the bolt and washer.
Beside these two issues the hitch install without other problems and I did this alone. Also install a wiring harness and your provided videos on the wire harness and hitch were the best I have seen for an installation guide. I did buy and use black paint and black silicone sealant as per your videos.


I purchased the Class III hitch and harness for my 2017 Ford Escape. First thing I noticed was the quality of the product. I love supporting American businesses that take pride in their product. I watched the online installation videos that were very helpful. I installed the hitch and harness without issue. You will need an extra set of hands though, installation is a bit awkward for one person.

2017 Ford Escape

Kit was complete and easy to install. With this kit I did not have to splice any wiring which made the install quick & easy. Instructions were right on. These kits are a must on any late model vehicle.


Watched the video for this harness and had no problems with installing it. Easy peasy!


Excellent product. Shipped fast. Easy to install if you follow the online video! Routed the 4 pin connector down to the hitch instead of out the back!

2017 Ford Escape

Everything worked well, it was easy to install. I just want to say if you're installing the tow package you don't need to take the rear lower bumper off. The instructional video for e-trailer has you doing that. However the written instructions don't tell you to. The written instructions are right it's unnecessary. However it wasn't hard to take off or put back on. The total time it took me to install the wiring harness and the tow bar was about 4 hours and I'm an old dude. Thank you

2017 Ford Escape

Installed this wiring kit in my 2017 Ford Escape about a year ago. Since then, it has worked every time with no issues. I have the 4-pole connector mounted to a bracket on the hitch. The connector has been fine living outside. My only complaint has to do with the install - a wire must be routed from the wiring harness controller (installed in the rear of the car near the taillights) to the battery (in the engine compartment). This was fairly difficult to do and, in my experience, was much easier if you run the wire down through the plug below the taillight area and along the bottom of the chassis on the outside (I think I snaked mine in between the chassis and the plastic covers on the underside of the car). I can't say this is a fault of this particular the wiring harness kit, as they seem to all require the battery wire.

2018 Ford Escape

My new Draw Tite hitch fit perfectly, you really need four hands when installing.. it would be a much easier install if yo have access to a car lift as it is a tight fit.. The wiring and installation of hitch went exactly as videos showed.. I wanted to protect back of vehicle in parking lots and that was one of the reasons for putting hitch on this car. Pictures attached. Thank you for your service

2018 Ford Escape

To date the unit has had minimal use but has performed as designed. Installation in the 2018 Escape was complicated not because of the unit itself but the design of the vehicle. There was plenty of room in the underfloor area for the unit, but getting the wiring to the taillight assembles required removal of interior trim panels. It also took extra effort and a pull tape to get the power wire to the car battery. This installation took nearly two hours.

Performs as designed
Gregory J - 03/15/2021


The hitch fit perfectly very pleased with the quality and finish of your product thank you joe


Easy to install. Works great! No problems with ot

2017 Ford Escape

Fast shipping! This is my first hitch ever. Everything fit perfect and came with instructions. Also they emailed me links for videos so it was extremely helpful. Installed it myself. Was a bit difficult without another set of hands but I managed to get it installed. I like how it’s mostly hidden under the rear bumper. Looks great! Wiring took a bit longer but was still easy. Everything to install and wire was all included.


The Tekonsha wiring module and harness is great product.


Great product. Easy to use!


The quality of the product is fantastic and I continue to be happy with my purchase. Installation for my Ford Escape was a real challenge, but that has more to do with the car than the product. For an aftermarket home install, it works great!

2017 Ford Escape

Installation involves removing both taillight assemblies and running wires back under the trim panels. When done, the trailer wire connector is inside the cargo area of the Escape so to hook a trailer up involves running the wiring harness out through the back hatch of the Escape. It would be much better if the installation resulted in being able to mount the wiring connector to the trailer hitch rather than running the wires out of the cargo area. The wiring does work properly and we've had no issues.

The manufacturer specifically designed the harness so the connector would be deployed from the interior of the vehicle when needed. This way, the connector is protected from damage when its not being used. The rear hatch of your Escape has weatherstipping thats thick enough that the wire for the trailer connector wont be damaged as long as you avoid the latch area.
-- Etrailer Expert Mike L - 04/30/2018


The wiring kit I ordered fit my vehicle perfect and was easy to install following the instructions that came with it.The order processing was also easy to use and the delivery time was less than I expected. I was completely satisfied.

Paul H - 01/29/2021

2017 Ford Escape

Easy to install if you have even a little mechanical knowledge. Looks great!

2017 Ford Escape

This is my third installation of these harnesses (on different vehicle types). The harness is exactly as described, plug and play. The tail light harness connection on my 2017 Escape was slightly different from the video, requiring a little adaptation. The written instructions are very superficial, so I thank etrailer for the very complete video. Once installed, it all works perfectly.

I have traveled many miles towing a sailplane trailer, with never a problem. All the wiring is well protected and terminals are good quality, so I do not anticipate any problems.
Brian - 04/24/2020


Product came super fast. Looks great. Will mostly be pulling a small boat. Took the mechanic 3 hours, mostly because of the wiring. Very happy with it. I gave up on trucks for now, so great addition to a car.
Great price too.


Everything was great. All parts were in the kit and after installation it worked as advertised.


always easy to get help from and always on time. Thanks etrailer


Everything snapped together great. Hardest part was running a power wire to the battery.

Dodge Dakota

I chose the Draw-Tite because the unit is nicely tucked under...
The hitch is Easy to install. Wiring is not as much fun to install.
Finish (paint) is still ok after one salty winter in South Dakota.

Show More Reviews

Ask the Experts about this Tekonsha Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring

  • Does Tekonsha T-One Connector 118715 For 2017 Ford Escape Need To Be Hooked Up To Battery?
    I wish that would work, but the T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector # 118715 you were looking at for your 2017 Ford Escape will need to have the power run directly to the positive terminal of your battery. The reason for this is the module needs to have a dedicated circuit to the battery, and cannot be added to an existing circuit. Doing so will void the warranty of the harness. I included a video of the # 118715 for you to take a look at.
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Wiring Recommendation for 2019 Ford Escape Titanium
    For your 2019 Ford Escape Titanium that came without the tow package the correct trailer wiring harness is the part # 118802. This is a custom fit kit that installs by plugging inline with the taillight connectors of your vehicle. The converter box of this kit is designed to interpret your taillight wiring and convert it to the correct 4-way wiring style.
    view full answer...
  • Running Power Wire for 4-Way Trailer Wiring on a 2018 Ford Escape
    I don't recommend connecting the power wire of the # C56320 to anywhere but the vehicle battery. Using the 12 volt outlet in the cargo area of your 2018 Ford Escape may not work properly. The converter needs to receive power from an isolated 12 volt circut and you really don't know if that circuit is isolated or not. There could very well be other components running off the same circuit. If it's not an isolated circuit you could be blowing fuses over and over again. I've linked a video...
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  • How Long Does It Take To Install the T-Connector Harness C56320 On A 2017 Ford Escape
    For starers, the T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness part # C56320 is a confirmed fit for your 2017 Ford Escape (Excluding SE Models) and the trailer wiring harness I recommend you use because of its reliability. In regards to installation, the manufacturer does not give an install time estimate for this as it will largely depend on your experience level. That said, if you are a novice then I would allot 60 minutes or so but if you are a professional then I would allot only 30 minutes or...
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  • Does Curt Trailer Wiring Harness Pull Much Power When Not Connected to Trailer
    A powered 4-pole wiring harness like the Curt # C56320, which fits your 2017 Ford Escape that does not have the tow package, will not pull significant current from your vehicle battery/alternator unless the harness is connected to a trailer. When connected, the trailer lights will demand power from the harness but the harness itself will barely draw any power unless connected to a trailer. You do not really need to pull the fuse but if you plan to store the vehicle for an extended period...
    view full answer...
  • Does Power Wire of Trailer Wiring for 2018 Ford Escape Have to Run to Vehicle Battery
    Not all vehicles can handle the additional amperage draw of the trailer taillights on the vehicle taillight circuits. Those vehicles need setup that draws power from the battery. Some vehicles have higher rated circuits that can handle this, and others need to have the power drawn straight from the battery to protect the taillight circuits. Even if the circuit you have at the rear fuse box is more than capable for the trailer wiring harness part # C56320 bypassing it and running the battery...
    view full answer...
  • Running Power Wire of Tekonsha Trailer Wiring Harness in 2017 Ford Escape
    When installing the wiring harness # C56320 in your 2017 Ford Escape the power wire should be ran directly to the battery. It's protected by the included fuse. There's no need to install a switch because your Escape's tail lights will function normally with the harness installed. The power wire powers the harness to keep the trailer lights from drawing all their power directly from the tail lights. The 4-way will still receive power when not towing which is normal.
    view full answer...
  • Which is Easier, Routing Power Wire Under Carpet or Under the Vehicle for Trailer Wiring
    On a new vehicle it's going to be much easier to run the power wire for trailer wiring like the part # C56320 outside of the vehicle as opposed to pulling up the carpet and then trying to get it through the firewall. I attached a help article that covers the options for routing the power wire of a trailer wiring harness for you to check out as well.
    view full answer...
  • Correct T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector for a 2017 Ford Escape
    The correct T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector for a 2017 Ford Escape is part # 118715, not part # 118566 which is for the older models. Unfortunately, I can't recommend modifying the harness as you would no longer retain any factory warranties. If you want to hardwire I recommend the Upgraded Modulite Vehicle Wiring Harness Kit part # 119147KIT.
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  • Which Trailer Wiring Harness 4-Way is Most Reliable for 2017 Ford Escape
    For your 2017 Ford Escape the trailer wiring harness I recommend is the Curt kit part # C56320 as the Curt brand converters have proven to us as being reliable.. I attached an install video for this kit for you to check out on a similar 2017 Ford Escape as well.
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  • CR-018 Skull Hitch Cover With LED Lights is Tripping Errors When Connected to a 2017 Ford Escape
    This is a pretty common occurrence with the Ford F-Series trucks, but can also pop up on their SUV lines as well. If you have an aftermarket wiring harness installed, like the Tekonsha # 118715, you will first need to check the ground connection. If this is not secured to bare metal with a solid, secure connection, it can cause all sorts of issues. From there you will need to test the ports on the 4 Flat with something like the # 40376. If the converter box on the # 118715 is malfunctioning,...
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  • Installation of Curt T-Connector Wiring Harness on a 2017 Ford Escape
    While we have not had the opportunity to install this wiring kit on a 2017 Ford Escape, I do have the installation instructions, which I've attached, that will show and tell you exactly what is needed to install the Curt wiring harness # C56320 to your 2017 Ford Escape. The # C56320 is a confirmed fit for your 2017 Ford Escape. You will need a trim panel remover like # ALL648544 to remove the panels. You will also need 8mm socket and ratchet or 8mm Wrench, Drill (3/32” Drill Bit) # PTW8563,...
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  • Trailer Hitch Recommendation for 2017 Ford Escape
    The Curt # C114123 is the # C11412 hitch packaged with their # C45521 ball mount. The hitch is a fit for a VW Golf, and wouldn't fit your 2017 Ford Escape. For your2017 Escape, I'd recommend the US made Curt Class III hitch part # C13186. If the choice is available, I'll always recommend folks go with a class III hitch with the 2 inch receiver opening because you'll have a much better selection of hitch mounted accessories available. To complete your towing system, you'll also need a...
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  • How To Add A Tow Package to a 2016 Ford Escape Titanium
    I do have the parts you will need to tow a trailer with your 2016 Ford Escape Titanium but these cannot be added after the fact to then give you the towing capacity of the version equipped with the factory trailer towing package because the towing capacity for the vehicle will remain unchanged throughout its life in the eyes of the manufacturer. That said, the factory towing package usually consists of a trailer hitch, trailer wiring harness, and transmission cooler. I have attached these...
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