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  1. Trailer Axles
  2. etrailer
  3. 2000 lbs
  4. 72 Inch Long
  5. 58 Inch
  6. 5 on 4-1/2
Trailer Axle with Idler Hubs - 5 on 4-1/2 Bolt Pattern - 72" Long - 2,000 lbs

Trailer Axle with Idler Hubs - 5 on 4-1/2 Bolt Pattern - 72" Long - 2,000 lbs

Item # e32GR
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Our Price: $237.41
Trailer Axles
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Round trailer axle beam measures 72" from hub-face-to-hub-face and 58" from spring-center-to-spring-center. Includes pre-greased idler hubs - with bearings, races, and seals - for 8" to 12" wheels. Lowest Prices for the best trailer axles from etrailer. Trailer Axle with Idler Hubs - 5 on 4-1/2 Bolt Pattern - 72" Long - 2,000 lbs part number e32GR can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 1-833-496-1390 for expert service.
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  • Videos (3)
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etrailer Trailer Axles - e32GR

  • 2000 lbs
  • 72 Inch Long
  • 58 Inch
  • 5 on 4-1/2
  • Leaf Spring Suspension
  • Idler Hubs
  • etrailer
  • Easy Lube Spindles

Round trailer axle beam measures 72" from hub-face-to-hub-face and 58" from spring-center-to-spring-center. Includes pre-greased idler hubs - with bearings, races, and seals - for 8" to 12" wheels.


Features:

  • Round axle beam acts as part of your trailer's suspension system
    • Replace an axle on your trailer
    • Fabricate a suspension to fit your application
  • High-strength steel construction
  • Bend in axle creates zero camber angle for even road-to-tread contact across the width of your trailer's tires
    • Best for straight-line acceleration and steady, controlled towing
  • Underslung design - spring seats welded to underside of axle for mounting leaf springs (sold separately)
    • Low ride height makes it easier to load and unload your trailer
  • Straight, Easy Grease spindles - no drop
    • Patented welding process prevents spindle failure with 40% stronger welds
    • Built-in grease zerk for simple lubrication
  • Spring seats and spindles are welded on
  • Cast iron idler hubs are sturdy and durable
    • Pre-greased idler hubs with bearings, races, seals, and lug nuts - no need to pack bearings
  • CSA, QAI, and SAE-N certified
  • Lifetime technical support from the experts at etrailer.com


Specs:

  • Weight capacity: 2,000 lbs
  • Hub-face-to-hub-face length: 72"
  • Spring-center-to-spring-center length: 58"
  • Hub bolt pattern: 5 on 4-1/2"
  • Grease cap flange diameter: 1.988"
  • Wheel stud dimensions: 1/2" diameter x 1-5/16" long
  • Hub diameter: 5-9/16"
  • Axle diameter: 1-3/4"
  • Wheel size: 8" to 12"
  • Limited lifetime warranty


Axle Dimensions

Hub Face and Spring Center Measurements on Standard Trailer Axle

There are multiple ways to measure the length of an axle beam, but the hub-face-to-hub-face and spring-center-to-spring-center lengths are the most accurate. Hub face (A) refers to the length of the axle measured from the base of one wheel stud to the base of the wheel stud on the opposite side of the axle (when hubs are mounted on the beam).


The spring center (B) is the approximate width of your trailer. It is measured from the center of the spring seat on one side of the axle to the center of the seat on the other. This axle beam comes with the spring seats welded on.


If you are replacing your trailer's axle, you should be able to figure out which type you need by determining your trailer's capacity, the bolt pattern of your wheels, the brake type and the aforementioned lengths.


etrailer Axles

etrailer axles are made of high-strength steel and come with spindles and spring seats welded on. The spring seats are attached to the underside of the axle so that the leaf springs (sold separately) can mount beneath the axle. The result of this underslung design is a trailer that rides a bit lower for quick and easy loading and unloading.


Each axle is manufactured to create a certain camber angle. This ensures that the angle of the wheels is correct for your towing needs. Because the primary concern when towing is maintaining controlled, in-line movement, each axle is made so that your trailer's tires will run along the pavement evenly, with contact across the width of the tread. The result is excellent straight-line acceleration for steady, in-line tracking. You might notice the bend near the center of the axle; this is what ensures the proper camber angle. Having the center ride a bit higher and the sides of the axle bent lower allows the axle to give just enough to compensate for the load.


Bearing, Race, and Seal Information

  • Bearings (included)
    • Inner bearing: L44649 (1.063" inner diameter)
    • Outer bearing: L44649 (1.063" inner diameter)
  • Races (included)
    • Inner race: L44610
    • Outer race: L44610
  • Grease seal (included): 10-9
    • Inner diameter: 1.50"
    • Outer diameter: 1.987"

Thoroughly Tested for Safety

This hub-and-drum assembly meets the requirements for certification by the Canadian Standards Association (CSA). The CSA creates standards, which when complied with ensure a safe and quality product. This assembly underwent extensive testing to measure stopping distances when braking. This assembly has also been tested by QAI Laboratories for braking performance in a complete automotive setup and under real-world conditions to provide the most realistic scenario for the everyday driver.


Determining the Bolt Pattern

The first number in the bolt pattern is the number of bolt holes. The second number denotes the diameter, in inches, of the circle on which the bolt holes sit.


Bolt Pattern - Even

On wheels with an even number of bolt holes, measure from the center of one bolt hole to the center of the hole directly across from it. (Example: 8 on 6-1/2 means 8 bolt holes with 6-1/2" from the center of one hole to the center of another on the opposite side.)


Bolt Pattern - Odd

To determine the bolt-circle diameter on wheels with an odd number of bolt holes, measure from the center of any bolt hole to the point halfway between the two bolt holes directly across from the first. (Example: 5 on 4-1/2 means 5 bolt holes with 4-1/2" measured to a point halfway between the opposite bolt holes.)


Bolt Pattern - Side

Measuring the distance (D) from the center of one bolt hole on the wheel to the center of a bolt hole right next to it can also help to determine the bolt pattern.

  • If D = 2-5/8", then the bolt pattern is 5 on 4-1/2"
  • If D = 2-3/4", then the bolt pattern is 5 on 4-3/4"
  • If D = 3", then the bolt pattern is 5 on 5"
  • If D = 3-1/4", then the bolt pattern is 5 on 5-1/2"


BS20RUX72.00058.000 etrailer by AxleTek 2,000 lb Axle Beam - 72" Hub Face - 58" Spring Ctr

17-150 Idlr Hb Asm Compl Boxed - 2K - 8-12" - 5 on 4.5 - PG BTR EZ





Video of Trailer Axle with Idler Hubs - 5 on 4-1/2 Bolt Pattern - 72" Long - 2,000 lbs

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for etrailer Easy Grease Spindles Trailer Axle Beam Installation

Hey everybody, how's it going Today we're gonna be going over the line of trailer axle beams with easy grease spindles. This trailer axle beam here is gonna be an excellent option for your trailer, whether you're replacing a damaged or broken axle or you're upgrading to a higher capacity. So this axle thankfully is offered in a wide variety of different configurations. We have a ton of different options to choose from based on a few different factors. Number one is the length of our axle both the hub face and the spring center. There's gonna be several different options for each of these.

There's also gonna be different axle capacities based on how heavy you need your trailer axle to be and how heavy your trailer is. Now we always recommend replacing what's on your trailer with the exact same one that came off. So for example, if your old axle had an 89-inch hub face, that's what we'd recommend replacing it with. And the same goes for the weight capacity although you can upgrade. So in regards to capacity, our axle here is offered in a capacity from 2000 pounds all the way up to 7,000 pounds.

So no matter what capacity you need, we should still have an option for you. Now, in addition to the capacity, we're also gonna have axles with a built in drop if you need that or just a straight axle. And we also have some different kits that are gonna come with some different components. We can either purchase the axle, just the spindle only axle. We can get this with an idler hub or we could get this with an electric brake drum and some electric brakes depending on what capacity you need.

So this is actually a leaf spring axle not to be confused with a torsion axle. And as we know, most leaf spring axles are round, which all of the etrailer axles are. So therefore you're gonna make sure that you choose a round U-bolt kit. We'll get into that a little bit later. They're also made in the USA.

So you know you're getting a quality product. So one of the main standout features of this axle is the built-in zerk fittings into the end of the spindle. So if we remove this plug here from our grease tap, you're gonna see that zerk fitting. And what this is going to do is this is gonna allow for extremely easy maintenance. So most trailer manufacturers are gonna recommend that you re-grease the axles every year and make sure you pump a couple of grease into them before each trip. So as opposed to taking the cap off there and packing some more grease into your hubs, you're gonna be able to easily insert that grease there into the spindle, into the bearings there using the zerk fitting here on the end of the spindle. So just keeping a grease gun on your trailer or in your vehicle. It's gonna allow you to easily maintenance your hubs here, keeping and preserving the life of your axle. So now that we've gone over these axles a little bit, let's go ahead and show you how to pick out the correct one. Well, in order to find the correct replacement axle for your trailer, there's a few things you need to do. The first one is we need to determine the capacity. The first place I always check for the axle capacity is on the axle tag, which is actually located on the axle. Now most of these are in the center and they could be a white sticker or they could be a metal plate. Now, not all of them list the axle capacity but the vast majority do. That's why I look here first. Granted, this is a new axle here. So the tag is in fairly good condition, but we can see on here GAWR, gross axle weight rating, 3,500 pounds. So I know this is a 3,500 pound axle. So if you do have an axle tag and there isn't a capacity listed on there, there may be a serial number, an axle number and in which case you could actually reach out to the axle manufacturer with this information and they should be able to give you the capacity. Some of the more common axle manufacturers on the market are Dexter and Lippert. So if you don't have an axle tag, that's okay. There is still other options to determine the capacity. One would be to take a fabric tape measure and record these circumference of your axle tube. Now, once we have the circumference, we can use the appropriate formula to get the diameter. And then using the diameter, there's a general axle guidelines to determine capacity based on that diameter. So for example, a 3,500 pound axle is gonna have a 2-3/8 inch diameter beam. Now a three inch diameter beam would represent anywhere from a 5,200 pound to a 7,000 pound axle. And there's also some larger ones, as well as some smaller ones. So if we don't have that axle tag there, we could just measure the diameter here of our axle tube. And another way is to actually look at the brake knob and flange bolts. Now, this is just going to give you a rough ballpark. The 3,500 pound assemblies, they usually use this four bolt pattern where it's the larger 52 to 7,000 pounds use that five bolt pattern. So that's more of a general guideline. It's certainly not all you wanna do, but it will help you reaffirm when you're measuring. So once we get to capacity, there's two more things that we need to gather. The next one is going to be the hub face length. So the hub face length is gonna take our brake hubs into consideration. We're gonna be measuring from the part of the brake hub where our wheel mounts from one side to the other. So we'll go ahead and do that now. Now once we have our hub face length, we need to determine our spring center length. So the spring center length is gonna be from the center of the leaf spring perch from one side to the other. So once we have all this information we can then use that to select the correct replacement axle for our trailer. Now keep in mind, there are standards in regards to the capacity, the spring center length and the hub face length, but that doesn't always mean that there's gonna be an option for your particular measurements. We do carry some common ones here at etrailer, but we don't have every possible option. So if you have one of those oddball axles that don't match up to some of our selection, you will need to have a custom ordered axle. So now that we have the correct axle selected for our trailer here, we'll go ahead and show you how to get it installed. So the first step of our installation today, we do need to lift our trailer up in the air. So make sure you're parking on a nice flat level ground. Go ahead and take some jack stands there, place them in each of the four corners on the trailer and you just have to lift it enough to let the axles spin and our wheels hang freely. But once we do that, we can go ahead and start removing the wheels. Now, this is a tandem axle trailer here and we're gonna be replacing both axles, but I'm only gonna start with one. So go ahead and get the wheel off on one side. I'll jump over to the other side, remove that well as well. So next we need to remove our hub assembly. And the first step of that is to remove the grease cap. This could vary a little bit depending on if you have an easy hook fitting or you just have these standard hubs there. But regardless, there's a couple different ways to do this. Now we're gonna be replacing this. So I'm not really too worried about damaging it. I'm gonna first start with some vice grips here. I'm just gonna clamp around the outside of the grease cap and I'm just gonna rotate it and pull it off. Or we could take a flathead screwdriver there and get it between the two surfaces there on the hub and the grease seal, and just sort of hammer it away. So go ahead and use one of those two methods to remove the grease cap. So once we have the grease cap removed, I went ahead and wiped away some of the grease so we could see what we're doing a little bit. So there's gonna be a cotter pin here holding on our castle nut that we need to remove. So I'm gonna go ahead and bend the legs back and get them started here with a flathead and I'll switch over to some needle noses. Just go ahead and bend them as straight as you can. It does get messy here and it can be hard to see what you're doing But there's gonna be two little legs there on that cotter pins. So go ahead and bend them as straight as you can. And then we're just gonna pull up and out there on the top. That's our cotter pin there. Once we have that out, we can go ahead and turn that castle up, just like so. So granted not all hub assemblies are gonna have the same retention system. This is a pretty common design. There's some other ones that use some retainer clips, but the standard practice is pretty much the same there for a few small differences, but regardless we need to go ahead and get that castle nut off. So once we have our castle nut off we can go ahead and remove our hub assembly. Now yours may or may not slide right off. We're gonna go ahead and give it a tug here. And ours is actually coming off pretty easy. There is a washer there that's gonna come out so you can hold that and then it'll just slide off like so. So now we need to remove our braking assemblies. Now the process for this could vary a little bit depending on what size brakes you have, but usually there's gonna be a couple studs here running through the backside with some nuts we need to remove. This one here is a 3,500 pound axle for reference and it uses four studs there. The larger ones use more studs. So just go ahead and remove all the nuts and bolts securing these to the axle. And once we have our hardware removed, we'll go ahead and slide our braking assembly off. We're gonna go ahead and cut our wire here, holding it on. So there's the two wires going to the other side. I'm just gonna go ahead and cut them right here for now. Now I'm gonna go ahead and take some penetrating oil. I'm gonna spray down the nuts that go to our U-bolts and I'm gonna let that sit a while. And while I let that sit, I'm gonna go ahead and remove the other side. So we're gonna take the hub assembly off as well as the braking assembly from the other side of our axle. So now we can go ahead and remove the nuts holding our U-bolts to the leaf springs here. So in order to do this, you're probably gonna need a half inch drive socket and possibly a breaker bar as well depending on how seized up these are, but go ahead and take what tools you do have to remove our nuts here. So there's usually four nuts attaching our two U-bolts. So those broke free, pretty good. Weren't too much of a hassle there, thankfully. But again, that's what our breaker bar was for. If they fight you too much, just switch over to this and we can get them out a lot easier. So we got pretty lucky here and our U-bolts weren't too seized up. I could actually break them free with that half inch breaker bar and they're threading off pretty smoothly. So I think we're good there, I'm just gonna continue to do that. So I removed both of them. Now, if yours are seized up and they're really hard to turn, that's a lot of the times the case for these U-bolts here, you can actually take a cutoff wheel such as one you see here and just go ahead and cut the U-bolts. Your axle doesn't come with U-bolts but I definitely recommend replacing those along with your axle. They're pretty cost effective and you really don't wanna be reusing the old U-bolts. So now that we have them all broke free, I'm gonna go ahead and remove the rest of them now. So now that we have our axle free on both ends here, we can go ahead and remove it from the trailer here so we can pull out and pivot down depending on how much space you have to work with. So if you have an extra set of hands that's gonna help with this as well. Go ahead and take our new axle here and go ahead and set it into position onto our leaf springs. Line up the hole in the leaf spring perch with the knob on the top of your leaf springs. This is gonna keep the axle from shifting. So now we're gonna be securing our axle to our lease springs using a U-bolt kit. We offer plenty of different options for these here at etrailer. They do not come with your axle and they are specific to the axle diameter. So this one is 2-3/8. Therefore we're using the 2-3/8 inch U-bolts but we do have options for larger and smaller axles as well. So make sure you pick up a U-bolt kit here from etrailer along with your axle. And now we'll just go ahead and take a U-bolt here, slip it over this side of the leaf spring. We'll take another U-bolt and slip it over the other side, just like so. Now we will take our tie down plate here, line up your U-bolts with the holes in the tie down plate and then we'll secure it with the provided hardware. Got each of our nuts started here. I'm gonna come back with my impact to just snug them all up. Now, keep in mind when you're tightening these down, you wanna make sure you're doing so as evenly as possible. So you wanna tighten a couple on this side then switch over to the other side and do that same thing for the other U-bolt as well. Now we'll come back with our torque wrench here and torque all of our nuts down to the specifications listed from the manufacturer. This is gonna be an industry standard based on the size of the U-bolts. Now, again, we need to alternate back and forth when tightening. So now that we have our U-bolts tightened down, we can go ahead and reinstall our braking assemblies as well as our hub/drum. So now all that's left is we're gonna have a couple wires from our braking assembly. We'll just simply hook those up to the two wires coming from our axle tube there. You're gonna have that same thing on the other side but the other side is likely gonna have a jumper that runs up to the front of the trailer. And that's gonna do it today for our look at the line of trailer axle beams with easy grease spindles..


Customer Reviews

Trailer Axle with Idler Hubs - 5 on 4-1/2 Bolt Pattern - 72" Long - 2,000 lbs - e32GR

Average Customer Rating:  4.7 out of 5 stars   (71 Customer Reviews)

Round trailer axle beam measures 72" from hub-face-to-hub-face and 58" from spring-center-to-spring-center. Includes pre-greased idler hubs - with bearings, races, and seals - for 8" to 12" wheels.

by:

5 stars for looks, apparent quality, and ease of assembly. My only complaint is the axle came with the zert fittings installed on the ends of the axles. This is convenient, but both were non functional upon arrival. One was slightly damaged, and both had the rubber protective material jammed in the grease fitting that I couldn’t remove. I had 2 extra zert fittings in the shop, so quick change and no problem. Maybe these could be shipped uninstalled?

Other than the small, minor complaint, the axle and hubs look great.




by:

Great service. I live in Hawaii, so it took a little longer to get my order, but etrailer kept me updated and were super helpful




by:

Needed it for an old boat trailer and everything fit perfectly




by:

I was supposed to leave this Monday for my new job using my trailer with new axle and hardware unfortunately send me the wrong size when in the order specifically said the right size now I have to wait who knows how long ams so screw...




by:

The axle worked great after I returned the one that didn't fit. The mechanic had it fixed in 30 minutes.




by:

Awesome, I will never buy an axle from anyone else. I will also tell my friends.




by:

Shipped same day. Not assembled though. Would have like the hubs pre-assembled to the axle.




by:

Quickly delivered and exactly what I asked for!




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Review from a similar etrailer Axle Beam w Hubs in Trailer Axles


I purchased two of these axles to replace my old square ones. They appear to be good quality but they arrived damaged. The grease fittings on the ends were smashed because packaging wasn't adequate. I've emailed back and forth and was shipped the wrong parts for replacement. In the end I was told I'd have to cut the spindles off and replace them. All I need is new grease zerks that thread on the ends of the axles. Be prepared to purchase these on your own because customer service is subpar on a remedy and the way they package them for shipping does not prevent damage.


Comments
I see that our customer service department is working on this with you. In order for us to better assist you, we will need some more information.
-- Etrailer Expert Katrina B - 08/12/2022
Its a shame that the end zerk fittings have arrived damaged. We recommend that the most cost efficient way to correct this, would be to replace the zerk fittings with part # Gzerk
Replacement Grease Zerk for Ram Jacks
$2.08
. I have sent this information over to our customer service department for them to get into contact with you.
-- Etrailer Expert Katrina B - 08/12/2022


by:

Review from a similar etrailer Axle Beam w Hubs in Trailer Axles


Easy ordering, axle arrived on time and no damage. The axle worked perfect for my camping trailer, would recommend your company any time.




by:

Review from a similar etrailer Axle Beam w Hubs in Trailer Axles


I'm currently installing it to replace a practically good Axle but the Spindle on the original Axle doesn't have Cotter Pins. A friend suggested I change the bearings since the wheel was wobbling but after I changed them, the wheel continued to come off. After watching U-Tube Videos, everyone of them had Cotter Pins, so I decided to be safe rather than sorry and replace the Axle with one of yours plus now ALL the bearings are NEW with New Hubs, WELL WORTH THE MONEY I SPENT.




by:

Review from a similar etrailer Axle Beam w Hubs in Trailer Axles


After 1 yr everything is going good. I used it 3 times and no issues. Very helpful customer service, I will recommend you to others who need trailer parts. Thank you..




by:

Review from a similar etrailer Axle Beam w Hubs in Trailer Axles


Axle seems solid. "Pre-installed" bearings had to be put back in because they slid out easily when installing the hub on the axle. I also had to go out and purchase new cotter pins (both were installed to a point where removing them resulted in one breaking and not trusting the other) and dust caps were heavily dented. That said, axle came 2 days earlier so I got to fish more.


Comments
Customer Service will be reaching out.
-- Etrailer Expert Sierra K - 10/04/2021


by:

Review from a similar etrailer Axle Beam w Hubs in Trailer Axles


When I opened the box I was missing the 4 hubs. I called CS 2:30 on a Wednesday and notified them. I was going out of town Friday to fix a trailer. I told Bailey with CS this and she said I will have them by Friday I be darn 10am Friday they were at my door. I am Houston not very close to them. I guess they sent them air. Anyway excellent CS and the parts are quality as well I have ordered from them before Thanks Bailey.




by:

Review from a similar etrailer Axle Beam w Hubs in Trailer Axles


This time was only average. Axle with idler hubs should include the bearings and seals. lost 2 days of work due to these items were missing. Requested ON shipping and it took an additional 3 days. Shipping needs to learn the products so orders are complete the first time




by:

Review from a similar etrailer Axle Beam w Hubs in Trailer Axles


Excellent customer service. The axle got separated from the hubs in shipment. When I called them, they told me it was backordered for a month. They contacted me less than a week later and sent me a new one. They were very attentive.

Putting it all together was relatively easy, if a little messy. This axle combo compared to the old one is like the difference between a paper straw and a metal one!




by:

Review from a similar etrailer Axle Beam w Hubs in Trailer Axles


Awesome job, very pleased with the service. The item was backordered they tried to replace with different item, but would not work for my application. They sent item out as soon as they had the parts together. Kept me we'll notified an was very professional to do business with. Thanks ??




by:

Review from a similar etrailer Axle Beam w Hubs in Trailer Axles


excellent choice for the price. made a trailer from scratch and acle worked well




by:

Review from a similar etrailer Axle Beam w Hubs in Trailer Axles


Product arrived on time and was exactly what I needed. It was shipped in 2 different shipments, so I was not quit sure when the other parts were to arrive. They came 1 day apart, not a bid deal.
Thank you




by:

Review from a similar etrailer Axle Beam w Hubs in Trailer Axles


This is the 2nd of two axles that I've bought to upgrade one of my trailers. Great product and fast shipping. Etrailer.com is my go-to source for most all of my trailer needs.




by:

Review from a similar etrailer Axle Beam w Hubs in Trailer Axles


Axle and hubs fit perfectly. Super satisfied with purchase.



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  • Personalized service for life.

    We provide one-on-one, personalized service from the ordering process through the life of your product.
  • Trusted since 1946.

    We've been serving customers since our parts store first opened in 1946 and continue to be recognized by our customers, our vendors and third parties for exceptional service.
  • Returns Policy

    Need to return an item? No problem. Please read our Returns Policy for more information.

Info for this part was:

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