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  1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
  2. Dexter
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  4. E-Z Lube Grease Cap
  5. 1.98 Inch O.D.
Replacement EZ Lube Drive-In Grease Cap - 1.986" OD - Qty 1

Replacement EZ Lube Drive-In Grease Cap - 1.986" OD - Qty 1

Item # 21-41-1
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Replacement EZ Lube Drive-In Grease Cap - 1.986" OD - Qty 1 1.98 Inch O.D. 21-41-1
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Grease cap fits EZ lube trailer hubs on Dexter and most other 3,500-lb axles. Is a direct replacement for the grease cap in (84546UC3-EZ) 3,500-lb trailer hub and drum assembly. Great Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from Dexter. Replacement EZ Lube Drive-In Grease Cap - 1.986" OD - Qty 1 part number 21-41-1 can be ordered online at or call 1-800-940-8924 for expert service.
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Dexter Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - 21-41-1

  • Caps
  • E-Z Lube Grease Cap
  • 1.98 Inch O.D.
  • Dexter

Grease cap fits EZ lube trailer hubs on Dexter and most other 3,500-lb axles. Is a direct replacement for the grease cap in (84546UC3-EZ) 3,500-lb trailer hub and drum assembly.


  • Grease cap fits EZ lube trailer hubs on Dexter and most other 3,500-lb axles
  • Is a direct replacement for the grease cap in (84546UC3-EZ) 3,500-lb trailer hub and drum assembly
  • Drive-in installation


  • Outer diameter: 1.986"
  • Quantity: 1

021-041-01 Replacement EZ Lube Drive-In Grease Cap - 1.986" OD - Qty 1

Replaces 21-41-1

Video of Replacement EZ Lube Drive-In Grease Cap - 1.986" OD - Qty 1

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.

Customer Satisfaction Score:

Customer Reviews

Replacement EZ Lube Drive-In Grease Cap - 1.986" OD - Qty 1 - 21-41-1

Average Customer Rating:  4.9 out of 5 stars   (95 Customer Reviews)

Grease cap fits EZ lube trailer hubs on Dexter and most other 3,500-lb axles. Is a direct replacement for the grease cap in (84546UC3-EZ) 3,500-lb trailer hub and drum assembly.


Previous customer, returning for another purchase.
Well made items, priced right, delivered to your door! Also purchased Kenda 205/65-10 Bias Trailer Tire with 10" White Wheel - 5 on 4-1/2 - Load Range D. Will use the items on my pontoon boat trailer. Great packaging and customer service. Thanks, I highly recommend etrailer!



A year later and still going strong. The bearings fit perfect and it a good peace of mind on long trips that I have new bearings.


Rebuilding a used trailer with no idea what axles it had. Contacted customer service and they walked me through getting the right brake kits, bearings, and hubs..excellent customer service


I bought these dust caps, the matching rubber ends, along with the etrailer driver tool. (290-991 for the size caps I have.) I was having issues with the Kodiak disc brake/Hub combo opening being a tad smaller and bent a couple of caps putting on with a dead blow rubber mallet. So ordered some new caps and the etrailer driver tool. Having the driver tool to keep these going straight and from warping (It fits pretty snug around the cap.) and really helped out. I also put a little grease around the edge of the rubber seals to help ward off water. What I like about e-trailer is they have about everything you need for trailers at one place. Their folks are friendly, knowledgeable, and helpful when you call.

Bradd B.


They have held up great!


Perfect fit and match !!


I think they substituted a cheaper cap which they do carry for the cap I wanted. (ie: SKU: 27-370-2)

I bought this one because the photo shows it resembles the OEM cap to match my new 2021 trailer. I had a cap on my new trailer damaged in transit and I wanted them all to match. However, I received it and it is not as the photo shows. It has a ridge on it not a rounded top. I think they substituted a cheaper cap (which they do carry) for the cap I wanted. BUT it does fit and works great. It just doesn't match the other caps on the axles.

Etrailer Expert

Sierra K.


You may have received another item on accident. Customer Service will reach out to you.


Exactly what I needed to get our boat trailer back on the road for more summer fun!! Thanks to the guys at etrailer.

Dave G.


Thanks for the personal follow up on your products I purchased. The bearing caps I purchased for our boat trailer continue to work perfectly without any problems at all.


Dust cap - works as described. I highly recommend getting the dust cap driver. Makes the job of installation of dust cap super easy.



Great product


Product are top quality. Customer service is outstanding. I was immediately contacted because one part of my order was out of stock, but a substitute was available. I agreed to the favorable substitute and the entire order shipped immediately. From order to receipt of products at my home was less than 72 hours - with free shipping. They offer made in USA brake components which I appreciate. I find it worth the extra cost. They are always my go-to for trailer parts


I have received the product but have not installed as I did not realize they came without rubber plugs to protect the bearing. Seems like the customer would ether be prompted to consider the plug when ordering, or the item would come with plug installed.

Etrailer Expert

Victoria B.


This replacement grease cap does not include a rubber plug. The replacement rubber plug is part RG04-010. For a replacement cap that includes the rubber plug, you will want part DC200L-DCRP.


Great service....They let me know of the delay on one of my orders.....Which was not bad of a delay...I email them about when,They responded quick....There product is up too par...Recommend them to anyone for parts...They also sent TWO VIDEOS ON HOW TO.....Now that’s service you can not beat...

Joseph F.


Just fine no problems so far. I wouldn’t think there would be any way because it’s a quality product.


Parts were direct replacement for factory bearings on my Sloan Kwik load open car hauler.
Updates on shipment and follow up by etrailer to ensure my satisfaction.
I will definitely revisit etrailer when it comes time for future maintenance.


Perfect replacement for missing caps.

Ryan R.


Everything is working great. Your parts helped me put a nearly new, yet fender-bendered, trailer back together for a very reasonable price. It rolls down the road great!Ill probably be contacting you all again in the near future for a wiring harness for a trailer brake controller on my new-to-me F250 when the weather finally decides to dry out a bit!.


Simply the best. Best price, best quality and easy to install. Also there are great videos etrailer has for installation of most of their parts. Dont waste your time shopping around. These gutd have the best price. Thanks guys


I bought these against future need. I was taking the trailer on a long trip to from Tennessee to Minnesota and ending in Pennsylvania. Turned out I didn't need them (or the bearings bought for the same reason), but It was reassuring to have them.


Snug fit, but nothing a 2x4 and 3lb hammer couldn't handle.



Still working great


This cap is a direct replacement for the DEXTER brand cap. The finish quality appears the same as the "factory original" I have not fitted the cap to the axle yet to check for fit. Will update review when I do.


Exact for my application


Couldn't be happier with the products I ordered, including this dust seal.
Everything I ordered fit and worked just right.
QUICK delivery, too.


Great replacement parts


These dust caps are pretty standard, shipping was excellent. Purchase the dust cap driver tool to go with these. It will make all the difference for installing and removing..


We needed brakes for a customer trailer, the people at Etrailer helped us figure out what size we had and are very nice to work with, the parts showed up on time and good quality, this is the place to use, thank you.


Caps and plugs fit perfect!



Perfect fit! Nice and snug so it does not pop off.


Great grease caps. I painted mine black to match the trailer hub.


Got my grease caps in a timely manner. Don't buy a tool to put these on, 2" ABS pipe is perfect size to grab the lip so you can hammer these on without damaging them.


Dexter hub dust cover. Fit is good.

Show More Reviews

See what our Experts say about this Dexter Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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  • Can E-Z Lube Cap be Installed on Standard Trailer Hubs
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  • Replacement EZ Lube Grease Cap For Trailer Hub on 4,400 lb Dexter Axle
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  • Replacement for Bearing LM48548 and Grease Seal 10-4
    Grease Seal # RG06-050 has an inner diameter of 1.719" and outer diameter of 2.565", you mentioned you have grease seal 10-4 and it has a width of .5" but from my research it looks like a 10-4 seal has an inner diameter of 1.249" and outer diameter of 1.983". I strongly recommend using a digital caliper such as # PTW80157 to measure the seal, as well as your spindle where the seal rides in order to get the correct replacement. If it does have an inner diameter of 1.249" and outer diameter...
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  • What is Spare Tire Lock Made of and Grease Cap for Trailer Hub
    To answer your first question, the Spare Tire Lock # FSTL0603 is made of metal and not plastic. In regards to the grease cap you asked about, since you got a 1.986" diameter you will want to use the Replacement EZ Lube Drive-In Grease Cap - 1.986" OD # 21-41-1 with the Grease Cap Plug # RG04-010. I have added links to video reviews for you to check out as well.
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  • What is the Height of the Replacement EZ Lube Drive-In Grease Cap # 21-41-1
    The Replacement EZ Lube Drive-In Grease Cap # 21-41-1 that you referenced has an overall height of 1-3/8". From the top of the grease cap to the bottom edge of the lip that stops it on your hub is measures 1" tall. If you don't already have the rubber plugs for an EZ lube grease cap then we have the part # RG04-010 which comes with 2 of them. I have attached a picture showing the dimensions that I referenced in my answer.
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  • Replacement Bearings, Seals, and Grease Caps for 3.5K Dexter Torsion Axles
    The correct Bearing Kit for your Dexter 3,500 lb torsion axles is for the # 84 spindle. This can be found on our site as part # BK2-100. It comes with the Outer Bearing # L44649, Inner Bearing # L68149, and Grease Seal # 58846, as well as the appropriate races. For replacement EZ Lube Grease Caps you will need part # 21-41-1, and if you need the replacement plugs they will be part # RG04-010.
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  • Rubber Plug Recommendation for the Grease Cap # 21-41-1
    The rubber cap needed to use with the # 21-41-1 is the part # RG04-010. It does not come with the cap.
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  • Will The Trailer Idler Hub Assembly # AKIHUB-545-35-G-K Work With Dexter EZ Lube Grease Cap?
    Yes, the Trailer Idler Hub Assembly # AKIHUB-545-35-G-K will work with your Dexter EZ Lube Cap # 21-41-1. We do have the Easy Grease Trailer Idler Hub Assembly # AKIHUB-545-35-G-EZ-K which includes a similar style EZ lube cap rather than the standard cap.
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  • Availability of Replacement E-Z Lube Grease Cap and Plug for Trailer Hubs
    It sounds like you are needing a replacement grease cap and rubber plug for the Dexter hubs on your E-Z Lube axle. In order to find the correct part for your current hubs, you will simply want to take a quick measurement on your existing grease cap or the hub's bore. If you can tell me what model hub you have on the trailer, I should also be able to recommend the correct replacement cap to use. For example, the Replacement EZ Lube Drive-In Grease Cap # 21-41-1 features an outer diameter...
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Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Ryan G
Installed by:
Ryan G
Employee Jameson C
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Employee Joshua S
Video by:
Joshua S
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Wilson B
Written by:
Wilson B

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