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Kodiak XL ProLube Oil Bath Hub Body and Cap - 1.98"

Kodiak XL ProLube Oil Bath Hub Body and Cap - 1.98"

Item # xlprolube1980
Our Price: $27.49
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Shipping Weight: 0.2 lbs
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Kodiak Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - XLPROLUBE1980
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Replaces (1) 1.98" body and cap for Kodiak XL ProLube oil bath hubs. Seals not included. Great Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from Kodiak. Kodiak XL ProLube Oil Bath Hub Body and Cap - 1.98" part number xlprolube1980 can be ordered online at or call 1-800-940-8924 for expert service.
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Kodiak Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - xlprolube1980

  • Caps
  • Oil Cap
  • 1.98 Inch
  • Kodiak

Replaces (1) 1.98" body and cap for Kodiak XL ProLube oil bath hubs. Seals not included.


  • Replaces body and cap for Kodiak XL ProLube oil bath hubs
  • Clear blue polycarbonate cap
  • Fits 1.98" hubs
  • Includes 1 body and cap
    • Seals not included

XLPROLUBE1980 Kodiak XL Pro Lube Oil Bath Hub Body and Cap

Video of Kodiak XL ProLube Oil Bath Hub Body and Cap - 1.98"

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.

Customer Satisfaction Score:

Customer Reviews

Kodiak XL ProLube Oil Bath Hub Body and Cap - 1.98" - xlprolube1980

Average Customer Rating:  4.3 out of 5 stars   (133 Customer Reviews)

Replaces (1) 1.98" body and cap for Kodiak XL ProLube oil bath hubs. Seals not included.


As far as the product goes it is average at best. These were replaced last spring and were leaking by the fall. As far as etrailer goes they are fantastic, fair pricing,fast shipping and great communication. I would definitely recommend using etrailer.


not at all happy with this product- 3rd replacement of the plastic screw on fill cap in the past 6 months as they keep developing spider web type cracks and leak
to add more frustration am unable to purchase just the cap as not sold seperately for some strange reason - I have also called trying to get someone interested in finding out why the caps keep cracking to no avail. Time to go back to the old grease type hub with buddy bearing hub end cap


I purchased 4 of these to do all my bearing on the trailer when they went bad. I have had to us three of them on the same wheel, as it kepts leaking after a couple of months. It is always around the rubber seal in the front of the hub. None of my original hubs have gone bad in that time frame. I need to find a different brand before I get stranded somewhere I can't fix it.

Etrailer Expert

Mike L.


According to Kodiak, Its more likely that the silver oil bath body is faulty than 3 different caps.


Easy to install and it's nice to be able to see the lube level through the end cap.


They came in on a time. Thanks so much


This is a replacement for the same hub body and cap whose polycarbonate cap had broken--cracked and leaking. Other than that, these oil-bath hubs have proven fine over the years. A clear, rather than a blue tint on the caps would make viewing the oil level a bit easier.--jg


My boat trailer has been on oil bath for ten years. I will never have a greased trailer bearing again. This product easily converts existing hubs to oil bath. Installed easily and looking forward to smooth operation.


The outside portion of the Oil Bath Hub Body that inserts into the wheel hub, was a bit oversized. Needed a flap disk grinder with a wheel that was not very coarse to take off about 0.010 to get the proper fit. Also, put a thin coating of sealant around this ground area. Sealant helps to visually verify that the Oil Bath Hub Body is fully seated into the wheel hub.


Totally satisfied with the product. Had to modify the caps but I'm thinking it's due to the spindle and not a fault with the product. A minor problem with the rubber plug keeps it from being a 5 star



Not good....plug leaks on both sides


Product works well, however I had to make a puller tool to remove the hub insert (without destroying it) so that the wheel bearings can be accessed. etrailer website is easy to use and the order was processed and shipped as expected.


A great upgrade to any trailer. you don't have to worry if your trailer bearing are being lubed just a quick glance and you know if the gear oil is half way up the blue sight glass all is well.


Fast service


Perfect fit for my Coastline Boat trailer. I like the ability to "see" inside. Appear to be water tight. Great product.



So far so good. Saltwater boat trailer and they have been working well. No issues.


I like these bearing caps they keep lube oil in contact with the bearings and you can easily see if there is water intrusion.


I have changed all my trailers over to this system and I highly recommend it,, you will not be disappointed.


We used to love your product. I'm not sure what has happened to quality control or your manufacturing processes, but these caps are terrible. I have had 4 break in the last year. Plastic cap cracks and falls off.


As alway etrailer was very prompt sending the product out. Hubs were packaged well to avoid damage during shipping.


I tried these on my trailer. Unfortunately two out of 4 began to leak in a very short time. I switched over to the Vault System.


The ones I bought a year ago are good, one of the two I bought last month is already leaking.

Etrailer Expert

Brooke M.


Thank you for reaching out! Something worth checking is making sure the o ring is properly seated as that can cause a leak if its not sitting where it needs to be.


Excellent option for replacement hub seal. Fit perfectly on my 2004 Mastercraft trailer. The option from another company was $80 each!


Easy online ordering and tracking. Great product.


We are completely satisfied with the items we have purchased from you. Your shipping is fast and it has been a pleasure doing business with you.



I ordered these for my son’s boat trailer. They are doing just fine.


Very quick shipping and quality product. This cap fit my Rockwell American possilube hub just as the original.


This product is sub-par. It says 1.98 but when I got it the product was 1.99. It wouldn't fit the hub at all. I do not recommend this product if they can't get their dimensions right.

Etrailer Expert

Sierra K.


Sorry that you are having trouble with your cap. They are meant to be a tight fit or they will leak. People usually use a block of wood and sledge hammer to place them. The measurement should be 1.896 inch and it is checked with a micrometer.


Easy to order and fast shipping!

Show More Reviews

See what our Experts say about this Kodiak Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • O-Ring Size for 1.98" Kodiak XL ProLube Oil Bath Hub Body and Cap
    The O-Ring for the Kodiak XL ProLube Oil Bath Hub Body and Cap - 1.98" # xlprolube1980 that sits between the cap and the hub body has an outer diameter of 1.89". This hub and cap is also available in the kit # XLPROLUBE1980KIT which comes with 2 of the hub and cap, oil seals, and the bearing lube needed to complete the setup. Attached are some videos for you to check out.
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  • Solution for Needing Replacement Cap of Kodiak XL ProLube Kit XLPROLUBE1980KIT
    I have a solution for you but just the blue cap of the Kodiak XL ProLube Kit for 3500-lb Axles Item # XLPROLUBE1980KIT that you referenced is not available. So your best option would be the Kodiak XL ProLube Oil Bath Hub Body and Cap # xlprolube1980 which is the blue cap and the metal piece it attaches to.
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  • Does Kodiak XL ProLube Oil Bath Hub Body and Cap # XLPROLUBE1980 Come with Seals
    The # XLPROLUBE1980 comes with the seal for between the screw on portion of the # XLPROLUBE1980 and the metal housing. The actual hub seal is not included so this would be what you would want.
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  • Replacement 250-031468 Seals Needed for Reliable Oil Bath
    From my research it looks like the correct replacement seal for your Reliable oil bath kit is the Replacement Seal # XLPROLUBE1980SEAL which is used for 3,500 lb axles. This seal has a 1.72" inner diameter and a 2.56" outside diameter. You can use these specs to ensure that it fits your application. I am unsure about the screw you mentioned because none of our kits have that screw, they just use rubber plugs similar to what you would see on an EZ Lube grease cap. If you are needing to...
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  • Kodiak Oil Bath Lube Kit For 3,500LB Lippert Axles
    Yes, the Kodiak XL ProLube Kit for 3500-lb Axles # XLPROLUBE1980KIT is the correct kit for your Lippert axle. According to the information found on Lippert's site all their 3,500lb sprung axles use the 1.98 grease cap and a 1.72" seal. Be sure to get some extra Synthetic Bearing Oil # XLPROLUBE incase you develop a leak while you are using your trailer.
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  • Availability of Oil of XLRPROLUBE1980KIT Separately
    Yes, we do offer the oil from the kit part # XLPROLUBE1980KIT separately with the part # XLPROLUBE.
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  • Replacement Plug and O-Ring for Kodiak XL ProLube Oil Bath .98 Inch Diameter Hub Body and Cap 1
    We do offer the replacement plug as part # XLPROLUBE-PLUG but Kodiak doesn't offer the O-ring as a replacement item. For the 1.98 cap, plug and o-ring, you'd use the part # xlprolube1980 that you've already looked at.
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  • How to Determine the Correct Oil Bath Cap
    To figure out the correct oil bath cap, you will need to know your axle's capacity or size of your hub bore. For a 3,500 lb hub or 1.98" hub bore you would use Kodiak XL ProLube Oil Bath Hub Body and Cap # XLPROLUBE1980, or for the kit you would use # XLPROLUBE1980KIT. If your axle had a capacity of 5,200 lbs or 6,000 lbs, or 2.44" hub bore you would want Kodiak XL ProLube Oil Bath Hub Body and Cap # XLPROLUBE2440 or if you wanted the kit you would use # XLPROLUBE2440KIT. I've added links...
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  • Upgrading From Grease Filled Hubs To Oil Filled Hubs On a 3,500LB Axle
    The Kodiak XL ProLube Kit # XLPROLUBE1980KIT can be used in place of your Grease Seal # 58846(2.565" OD, 1.719" ID) if you are converting your hubs to oil bath. The Seal # XLPROLUBE1980SEAL for oil bath hubs will require you to replace your bearings with a Bearing Kit # BK2-100 to ensure you get all the grease out of your hub. I recommend carrying an extra Cap # xlprolube1980 and Oil # XLPROLUBE with your trailer in the event the rubber plug falls out or the cap gets damaged. Then you...
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  • Fit of Kodiak XLPROLUBE1980KIT on 3500 lb Spindles With 171255 Grease Seal
    The # XLPROLUBE1980KIT is compatible with a 3500 lb spindle that uses the L68149 inner/L44649 outer bearing and the 171255 grease seal, so it'll work great for you. You can view a product description video by clicking the provided link.
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  • Can Grease Hubs be Converted to Oil Bath Hubs
    Depending on the type of grease hub you have, you may be able to convert it to oil by using the Kodiak XL ProLube Kit # XLPROLUBE1980KIT. Based on the inner and outer bearing numbers that you provided, you most likely have a 3,500 pound axle, although I still recommend verifying this. This ProLube Kit will work with the 3,500 pound axle if the spindle features a 1.72 inch diameter where the grease seal sits and the existing grease hubs have a 1.98 inch grease cap flange diameter. I have...
    view full answer...
  • Installation of Kodiak XL ProLube Kit
    You can install the Kodiak XL ProLube Kit for 3500-lb Axles # XLPROLUBE1980KIT if you have a 1.72" spindle, the kit does include a pair of oil bath caps for 1.98" hub bores. To install the kit you are going to need to remove your current hubs, bearings, seals and caps and use degreaser, making absolutely sure there is no grease remaining. When you are putting the caps on that come with this kit you are correct that you install it the same way as a Bearing Buddy. In the directions it...
    view full answer...
  • Does Dust Cover of Kodiak XL ProLube Kit Install After Mounting Hub
    The instructions that you mentioned refer to tapping in the dust cover portion of the Kodiak XL ProLube Kit for 3500-lb Axles # XLPROLUBE1980KIT into the hub bore after it's mounted. While this wouldn't damage the seal necessarily you could install this before installing the hub on the spindle if you wanted to.
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  • What Type of Grease Seal Keeps Out Water the Best
    Are you using double lip grease seals or single lip seals? Is there a metal spring that runs around the seal to hold it tight to the spindle? I'd verify that first but if it's not that it's either a bad spindle or you are using the wrong size seal. Oil seals aren't typically better at keeping water out than grease. Normally both do a great job. I attached a picture that has a diagram that shows the different seal styles. I also attached a link to a page that has all of the grease seals...
    view full answer...
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  • Outer Diameter of Seal that Comes with Kodiak XL ProLube Kit for 3500-lb Axles XLPROLUBE1980KIT
    The seal of the # XLPROLUBE1980KIT has an outer diameter of 2.56 inch and an inner diameter of 1.72 inch.
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  • Can Regular Grease Trailer Hubs be Converted to Oil Bath Hubs
    The choice of oil bath or regular hubs is up to the manufacturer. They are usually found on higher capacity axles, though as you know there are some on lower capacity axles. You can convert some hubs from grease to oil bath using a kit such as # XLPROLUBE1980KIT but for others it would not be possible without changing the hubs. This is because oil bath hubs use an oil cap that threads onto the end of the hub. Most regular hubs are not threaded so you would not be able to screw on an oil...
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  • Oil Bath Conversion Kit to Fit in Place of 442251 Seals
    The oil bath kit that you're looking for is the Kodiak XL ProLube Kit for 3500-lb Axles # XLPROLUBE1980KIT. This comes with oil seals that have an ID of 1.72" which are an exact match for your National 442251 seals. The oil caps fit 1.98" hub bores so you will want to double check that. Please note that you need to remove all of the grease in your current setup prior to installing an oil bath kit. If any grease is left then you run the risk of the grease reacting with the oil and then...
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  • Are There Replacement Caps for the Kodiak XL ProLube Oil Bath Hub Body and Cap
    If you have the Kodiak XL ProLube Oil Bath Hub Body and Cap part # xlprolube1980 you'll need to purchase the complete unit as the oil caps are not available separately.
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  • Difference Between Oil and Grease Seals
    Yes, there is a difference between an oil seal and a grease seal for trailer hubs. Oil seals have a much tighter fit on the spindle to keep the oil from leaking out. An oil seal can be used with grease but a grease seal cannot be used with oil. The Kodiak XL ProLube Kit # XLPROLUBE1980KIT you were looking at comes with oil seals and oil bath caps and would allow you to convert from grease to oil on 3,500 lb axles.
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  • Replacement Oil Cap for 3,500 Pound Axle
    When locating a replacement oil cap you will want to take a quick measurement of your hub bore diameter, ideally using a digital caliper capable of measuring to the nearest thousandth of an inch. Most likely on a 3,500 pound axle you will use the Kodiak XL ProLube Oil Bath Hub Body and Cap # XLPROLUBE1980 but I still recommend measuring just to be sure. This cap fits a hub bore diameter of 1.98 inches.
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  • Can Grease Hubs on Shorelandr Trailer Be Converted to Oil Bath Hubs
    Whether or not your existing hubs can be converted to oil bath units depends on the type of hubs you have on your Shorelandr Trailer. For many standard, grease trailer hubs, it is not possible to make this conversion because oil bath hubs use an oil cap that threads onto the end of the hub. Most regular hubs are not threaded so you would not be able to screw on the cap. In this case, you would simply need to replace the hub assembly with specific, oil bath hubs. If you are able to convert...
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  • Parts Included in Kodiak XL ProLube Kit for 3500-lb Axles XLPROLUBE1980KIT
    The Kodiak XL ProLube Kit for 3500-lb Axles # XLPROLUBE1980KIT does include the bottle of bearing lubricant, two inner oil seals for a 1.72-inch spindle and two oil bath caps that fit a 1.98-inch hub bore. The actual hubs themselves that you wheels mount to are not included.
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  • How Does Oil Fill into Hub that Uses Kodiak XL ProLube Kit
    The black center plug that you see on the plastic cap of the Kodiak XL ProLube Kit for 3500-lb Axles # XLPROLUBE1980KIT that you referenced is the fill hole.
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  • Which Oil Bath Cap Do I Need on a 2003 EZ Loader Trailer
    In order to determine the correct oil bath cap you'll need to measure your hub bore or find the weight capacity of your axle. If you have a 3500 lbs. axle or a 1.98 inch hub bore you will want part # XLPROLUBE1980 or # XLPROLUBE1980KIT for a kit that includes caps, seals, and oil. For 5200 or 6000 lbs. axles that have a hub bore of 2.440 inches you will need # XLPROLUBE2440 or # XLPROLUBE2440KIT for the kit.
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123. . .4

Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?

Info for this part was:

Employee Mike L
Expert Research:
Mike L
Employee Jameson C
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Laura H
Updated by:
Laura H
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Wilson B
Written by:
Wilson B

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