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  1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
  2. Redline
  3. Seals
  4. Grease Seals - Single Lip
  5. 2.33 Inch O.D.
  6. 1.750 Inch I.D.
Grease Seal

Grease Seal

Item # 10-42
Our Price: $9.09
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Shipping Weight: 0.04 lbs
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Redline Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - 10-42
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Great Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from Redline. Grease Seal part number 10-42 can be ordered online at or call 1-800-940-8924 for expert service.
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Redline Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - 10-42

  • Seals
  • Grease Seals - Single Lip
  • 2.33 Inch O.D.
  • 1.750 Inch I.D.
  • Redline

Use With:
1.75 2.33 Dexter 2,800 LB Axles

Seal Cross-Reference
Dexter #
Transcom #
National #
Chicago Rawhide #

Video of Grease Seal

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.

Customer Satisfaction Score:

Customer Reviews

Grease Seal - 10-42

Average Customer Rating:  4.9 out of 5 stars   (52 Customer Reviews)


Part was easy to find on the website and order. Hope to get the hub put back together this week and be rolling again soon.



Put everything back together and have have been rolling smooth ever since.


The correct part at a fair price.


Very dissapointed in the packaging. all the bearings and races we loose and allowed to bang around the the oversized box without any packing to prevent them from damaging each outher during shipping. I havnt had a chance to inspect each one but will be supprized if bearing cone cages are not bent


Dry easy transaction


only thing you should wait till i can feel the part


As it turns out, I haven't used my trailer much since I serviced all the wheel bearings, so can't report how the actual sealing function of these rings would perform after some thousands of miles. However, their fit was perfect, and required no force or difficult maneuvers to install. The quality of materials seemed to be excellent, so I'm not expecting underperformance when I eventually do some long-distance travelling.


Cant really rate them as the trailer I put them on burnt but they worked great till that happened
NOTE: Fire had nothing to do with wheels or tires it was an electrical short in the power system under the table seat


I regreased the wheel bearings and checked the brakes on my travel trailer and needed some replacement parts. Finding the right parts and "talking" me thru the installation was a big help. Thank you E-Trailer and having you here is a great comfort.


Item was as described, good quality, reasonable price, and quick shipment. Follow up customer service needed was pleasant and very responsive. Would recommend to others. They have a good selection and wide variety of parts available. Site was very easy to navigate. Thanks!


Great experience! Easy to search the site for my part. Check out was simple and shipping was great. Received my hub seals in 3 days. They fit perfectly and seem to be keeping the grease in.


Work fine as dust seals go.

Mike B.


So far all seem to be working well. Thanks


After a year the seals are still holding up. My old ones allowed grease to get on the brake shoes. No problems with grease leaking now.


hi, i ordered the brake linings and wheel seals monday and got them thurday, excellent service, plus the lady i talked to was very freindly and know what i needed. will order again from etrailer.

thank you


I never replaced the grease seals. But was glad that etrailer had them because I could not find them anywhere else.


Erika was really helpful when we called to order our parts. Had the option to get
them in record time. Was pleased that we had the option to get the seals like those that were already on the older travel trailer. Thanks for your help.!!


I have got a few things from etrailer and I am very happy with the product and the service


Service was excellent


They seem to be of good quality. So far have worked well


Quick shipping and the right brake parts. My first purchase from etrailer and looking forward to my next.


Looked EVERYWHERE for these and found them right away at etrailer!


Fit perfectly.

Larry F.


Working great! No problems at all.


we think the product and the people involved with getting to us was so
very good. the price was very good and the time was very good so we
will give your email address to our friends or anyone that could us the
products you have. thank you again.


I was very pleased with the service and speed of delivery. The quality is just as good as the name brands.


Great price, fast shipment, and good communication. What more can you ask for?


Works perfect, keeps water out and grease in

Show More Reviews

See what our Experts say about this Redline Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Grease Seal to Replace National # 470316 for 2005 Rockwood Travel Trailer
    I was unable to locate any cross-reference information for the National 470316 grease seal you mentioned. I spoke with my contact at Redneck Trailer Supply, where we get most of our bearings and seals from, and he came up empty handed, as well. This is not to say that I cannot find a replacement for you, though. Take some good, accurate measurements of the outside diameter of your existing seal, and the diameter of the surface of the spindle where the seal would ride, which is dimension...
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  • Measurements and Compatibility of the Redline 10-42 Grease Seal
    The Redline Grease Seal item # 10-42 is going to be the closest seal we have to your measurements of 2.335 OD and 1.789 ID. The .03 difference could be caused by a measuring issue like your caliper being off by a small amount. If not the seal has some play in it and should work on your spindle.
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  • Grease Seals with Inner Diameter of 1.750-Inches
    We offer three grease seals that have a 1.750-inch inner diameter. You can see these by clicking on the link provided. The three seals have outer diameters of 2.312, 2.356 and 2.722-inches. You can use a digital caliper like # PTW80157 to measure your hub's bore to find out which seal is the proper fit. For example, part # 10-42 is a single-lip seal with an outer diameter of 2.33-inches meant for Dexter 2800-lb axles.
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  • How to Measure to Determine the Correct Grease Seal for a Trailer Spindle
    The # 168233 Double Lip Grease Seal has an outside diameter of 2.332 inches and an inside diameter of 1.688 inches. This seal is not compatible with a AF2527E seal with a O.D 2.312, because, even though the O.D. id very close, the inner diameter of the is seal is 1.750 inches and would not be the correct fit for the spindle diameter. You will need to take an accurate measurement of the outside diameter of your existing seal, or the inside diameter of the mounting surface for the seal in...
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  • How to Install New Grease Seal on Trailer Hub
    Based on the information you provided, the # 10-42 grease seal is the correct one for your application on the now obsolete Dexter 8-283 hub for 2,800 lb axles. To install it, with the inner bearing in place, set the grease seal over the top and press it in all the way, until it's flush with the rear of the hub bore. You can use a block of wood and a hammer or rubber mallet to apply even pressure around the seal, to push it back into the hub. And yes, you want the grease seal to be butted...
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  • How to Determine Which Grease Seal is Needed for Trailer Hub
    Grease seals are very specific which means you will need some very specific information in order to get the one that fits. The ID tag info you gave is the axle capacity and tire size, but I can help you figure out just how to determine the correct grease seal, as well as bearings if you are looking for replacements for your hub. Doing this does require you to take apart your current hub assembly and look at the bearings and seal; wipe away the grease and you should be able to see the part...
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  • Correct Bearing Seal For a Dexter 2,800 Pound Axle
    I have confirmed with my contacts at Dexter, and the Electric Brake Shoe part # bp04-065 that you referenced was used on a very specific Dexter 2,800 pound axle. The correct seal for this axle is the # 10-42. This seal has an inner diameter of 1.75 and an outer diameter of 2.33 inches. This axle was manufactured by Dexter and had a manufacturer part number 010-042-00. This axle was primarily used in the lightweight travel trailer industry.
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  • Replacement Grease Seals For a 1992 Fleetwood Wilderness 22H With 2,800LB Axle
    Based on your measurements for the grease seal it appears Seal # 10-42 is the correct size for your axles. This seal is 1.750 inner diameter and 2.33 outside diameter and they are for Dexter 2,800lb axles.
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  • Replacement Grease Seal for Dexter 8-133 Trailer Hub
    Based on your dimensions you need seal # GS-2125DL. This seal has an outer diameter of 3.376 inches and an inner diameter of 2.125 inches. Seal, bearing, and race measurements need to be as accurate as possible which is why they are measured to the thousandth of an inch. I recommend measuring the diameter of the spindle where the seal rides as well as the hub opening where the seal fits using a caliper to ensure this seal will fit.
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  • Availability of Grease Seal for 2,500 Pound Boat Trailer Axle with 2.33 Inch Outer Diameter
    The closest grease seal we have to the dimensions you listed is indeed the # 10-42. This particular seal has the needed 2.33 inch outer diameter but a slightly different inside diameter of 1.75 inches than what is typically found when paired with the # L44649 and # L68149 bearings. This may very well be the correct seal for your spindles but I recommend measuring the spindle where the grease seal rides with a digital caliper to make sure its matches the seal's inner diameter. You can...
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  • Correct Grease Seal for Dexter 2,800 Lb Axle
    The correct grease seal for a Dexter 2,800 Lb Axle is the Grease Seal part # 10-42 which has an inner diameter of 1.75" and and outer diameter of 2.33". In order to repack the bearings, I recommend using the LubriMatic Prime Guard High Temperature Wheel Bearing Grease part # L11380. If you want, you can use the Powerbuilt Deluxe Bearing Packer part # ALL647646 to make this job very easy.
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  • Recommended Grease Seal Replacement for Dexter 8-248 Hub
    I have a replacement for you; our # 58846 grease seal is actually a double lip seal like you wanted, and if that is the seal number you're finding on the back of your existing seal, you are able to use that as the replacement. For reference, this seal has a 1.719" inner diameter and 2.565" outer diameter. The 10-19 seal you mentioned isn't one that we carry, but if you actually meant the # 10-9, you wouldn't be able to use that seal since it is much smaller with a 1.5" inner diameter and...
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  • Availability of Grease Seal with 2-1/4 Inch Outer Diameter
    If your hub uses the # L44649 outer bearing and the # L68149 inner bearing, then the Grease Seal # RG06-050 that you mentioned is indeed the most common seal used for this type of spindle, but it's possible your particular hubs use a different size. The closest grease seal we have available to the 2-1/4 inch outer diameter you mentioned is with the Grease Seal # 10-42. This seal has an outer diameter of 2.33 inches and an inner diameter of 1.75 inches. You can compare these dimensions...
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  • Which Bearings, Races, and Seal Fit Dexter Hubs 8-283
    For the inner bearing you need # LM67048 and race # LM67010. The outer bearing is # L44649 and race # L44610. The seal is # 10-42.
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  • Replacement Grease Seal for Hadco LA370R 6 On 5-1/2 Hub
    We don't offer a grease seal that would have the proper outer diameter to work with your Hadco Hubs, but we might have a solution that would allow you to upgrade your existing hub/drums so they're compatible with easily obtainable grease seals. If your Airsteam uses a standard 12 inch brake assembly like # 23-106, you can replace your hubs using # 8-201-5UC3-EZ which uses the readily available 10-10 grease seal. The hub/drum is compatible with the 25580 inner and LM67048 outer bearing...
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  • Replacement Bearings and Seals for Agricultural Hub
    Unfortunately we don't have a hub replacement available as you have an odd sized Agricultural Hub. However, I believe I can help you with bearing replacements. You will want # 14125A and # LM11949 for your bearings. The for your seal, you will need to determine fit based on the outer diameter of your hubs. We have the # 10-42 which has an outer diameter or 2.33 inches, # SL175 with 2.722 inches, or # 1105-100-031 with 2.356 inches.
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  • Replacement Bearings for Dexter 2,800 lb Axle
    The bearings you would need are inner bearing # LM67048, outer bearing # L44649 with a # 10-42 seal. We don't have this as a kit but you can order each individually.
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  • Bearing Kit Recommendation for a Dexter 2800 lb Axle
    The bearings you would need are inner bearing # LM67048, outer bearing # L44649 with a # 10-42 seal. We don't have this as a kit but you can order each individually. We contacted Dexter and they informed us that you axle was made specifically for Fleetwood in Canada and they don't use the standard 3.5k bearing setup.
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  • Is there a Bearing Kit for L44643 Bearings that Includes Races, Pin, Dust Cap, and Seal 203025
    The bearings we have, # L44643, and the associated race is # L44610. The cotter pin is # 165649. The dust cap associated with hubs that take these bearings is # RG04-020 for a pair. The seal on the other hand is an odd size. There isn't a bearing kit that has the seal that you need and it is an odd size that we do not carry. But it is readily available at auto parts stores. I know that a kit would make things a lot easier but in this situation there isn't a kit that has the seal and dust...
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  • Replacement Bearings, Races and Grease Seal For a UFP HD-1377-10 Trailer Hub
    Based on previous information we have for your UFP HD-1377-10 hub it uses the following components. I do recommend pulling one of your hubs to verify that the replacements listed below match your current parts. Inner Bearing # L68149 (Inner diameter 1.378") Inner Race # L68111 (Outer diameter 2.361") Outer Bearing # L44649 (Inner diameter 1.063") Outer Race # L44610 (Outer diameter 1.980") Grease Seal # 10-42 (Inner diameter 1.75", Outer diameter 2.33") If the numbers or dimensions do...
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  • 2004 Trail-Lite 8304-S Lift Kit Availability
    Since we know your 2003 Trail-Lite has a Dexter torsion axle with a 2,800 lb capacity the correct lift kit is the part # K71-707-02. This will give you a lift of 2-5/8 inches.
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  • Bearing Kit with LM67048 and L44649 Bearings
    I do have all of the parts you need but we do not offer an all inclusive bearing kit with them. Instead, you will need to purchase each separately using the list I have attached for you below. Inner Bearing - part # LM67048 Inner Race - part # LM67010 Outer Bearing - part # L44649 Outer Race - part # L44610 Grease Seal - part # 10-42 Tang Washer - part # 5-101
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  • Bearing Kit for Older Trailer Hub with LM67048 Inner and LM11949 Outer Bearing
    We don't offer a kit for that hub, but we definitely have the bearings and races and possibly the seal which can be purchased individually. You'll need the # LM67048 bearing, its # LM67010 race and the # LM11949 bearing and its # LM11910 race. I don't have enough information to determine the grease seal you'll need, but it'll have an outer diameter of 2.328 inches. We offer two seals with this OD. You can determine if one of them will work for you by using a digital caliper like # PTW80157...
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  • Replacement Hub/Drum and Brakes For a UFP 10" Hub/Drum Stamped HD 1377 On EZ Loader Boat Trailer
    Based on previous information we have for your 10" UFP HD 1377 hub it uses the following components. I do recommend pulling one of your hubs to verify that the replacements listed below match your current parts. Inner Bearing # L68149 (Inner diameter 1.378") Inner Race # L68111 (Outer diameter 2.361") Outer Bearing # L44649 (Inner diameter 1.063") Outer Race # L44610 (Outer diameter 1.980") Grease Seal # 10-42 (Inner diameter 1.75", Outer diameter 2.33") If the inner diameters match you...
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Employee Mike L
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Employee Randy B
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