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  1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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  5. 3.269 Inch O.D.
  6. 2.125 Inch I.D.
Grease Seal - Double Lip - 21325

Grease Seal - Double Lip - 21325

Item # 21325
Our Price: $17.11
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Shipping Weight: 0.12 lbs
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Grease Seal 21325
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Great Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from Redline. Grease Seal - Double Lip - 21325 part number 21325 can be ordered online at or call 1-800-940-8924 for expert service.
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Redline Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - 21325

  • Seals
  • Grease Seals - Double Lip
  • 3.269 Inch O.D.
  • 2.125 Inch I.D.
  • Redline


  • Double lip grease seal
  • Qty. 1 seal

159500 Redline Double Lip Grease Seal

Use With:
2.125 3.269 Unique #42 Hubs

Seal Cross-Reference
Dexter #
Transcom #
National #
Chicago Rawhide #

Video of Grease Seal - Double Lip - 21325

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.

Customer Satisfaction Score:

Customer Reviews

Grease Seal - Double Lip - 21325 - 21325

Average Customer Rating:  4.7 out of 5 stars   (39 Customer Reviews)


Very informative web page, and helpful customer review blog. You can find almost any trailer question you may have. These hard to find grease seals were readily available and fit perfect. I used them for my 1986 boat trailer conversion project.


I had the hardest time finding this particular size bearing and seal. Couldn’t find it any any local auto shops or many places online. E trailers was the only place I could find it, and it fit perfectly.

I live in a location where I only drive 5 miles back and forth to the ramp. All gravel roads. Freezes in the winter, so only use the boat May- September. For those 5 months the new bearing and seal work great.


Got here fast, just wish more of their products shipped to a P.O. Box.


This seal worked perfect.

to be an Odd size. Was very difficult to find this seal. Thanks etrailer!!

This seal fit my 1984 ezloader trailer hubs with a seal OD surface dimension of approximately 3.260"

Thanks again, and Ill look to etrailer first next time I need a part for my trailer.


When our local auto parts store couldn't match our bearings seals, and in fact ordered in the wrong seal based on the dimensions he took from the old seal, we turned to the internet and found had the correct seal at a price that was WAY below the incorrect seals we were originally sold. Even when we factored in the shipping we still paid half of what we were sold across the counter.

Thank you etrailer!


This seal was a exact replacement for the seal I replaced. None of the auto stores could find this. Thanks etrailer for still stocking this older hard to find grease seal. I was back on the road with my trailer (6 lug hub) in nothing flat.


These fit my application like a glove !!! Way easier than piecing together all the parts separately!! Hardest part of the install was re-starting the brake line fitting because it fit so perfectly to my application !!


Etrailer was the only company that could match up part numbers that i had and was the right part and I got the parts fast


Didn't fit our trailer, but seals appeared decent quality


Service from is excellent. Parts were same as OEM.


Works perfect...Etrailer was great help in finding the right parts.


I ordered these seals after checking every parts store and rv store around nobody had them. I ordered online and the seal is exactly what I needed. Price was right Shipping was fast.


Everything good, etrailer is a great source for our fleet needs


Fits well, does the job, reasonably priced. What more can you ask for? Thanks etrailer for excellent service again.


¯_¯_¯_¦¦¦¦ GREAT SELLER! ¦¦¦¦¯_¯_¯_¦¦¦¦ GREAT PRICES ¦¦¦¦¯_¯_¯_


Worked great


Was exactly as indicated. Easy to search for.

Gary B.


All items were just what I needed. Working perfectly. Really like how the site walks you through measurements and fit.


Great service fast delivery will definitely use e trailer again Thanks


Good Quality products, fast service .. had a small part wrinkle but Noah took the extra time to actually help me (twice) to make sure I had what I needed.
The type of service you expect but rarely get!


You had the right part at a good price and I received then quickly. The seals are working great. Think you having the right seal at a good price.


I purchased this product after I had made an error by reading on the same page that 21325 "VS" seal #10-36 were the same and was two for the price of one so I purchased the wrong one. And after I recieved it found out it was the wrong part. Not your fault I guess I was misled by my own greed thinking that I was saving money. I should have been more careful and checked the dimensions better. But you sent this new product 21325 to me very fast and that did please me very much.
Thank You-----H. Vinson


Not only did they have a rare seal, they had it in the mail and at my house the next day. Thanks Renee for getting me on the road on time!



nice fit


Super fast shipping, these are twice as thick I think a better fit for these hubs. Seat depth wise

Show More Reviews

See what our Experts say about this Redline Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Availability of Grease Seal to Fit ID 2.125" and OD 3.265"
    The closest thing that we have to those measurements is the Grease Seal # 21325 which has an ID of 2.125" and an OD of 3.269". The 0.004" difference between the OD that you measured and the OD of this grease seal is not enough for it to not be compatible. In fact, the slightly larger size OD means that it will fit that much more snug and help to prevent grease escaping.
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  • Replacement Hub Seal for TDE Trailer Hub 11033
    The hub number you mentioned references a TDE 3,500 lb axle trailer hub which while we don't carry that specific hub we do offer seals that would fit it like with the Grease Seal # 58846 which is the correct fit for your trailer.
    view full answer...
  • How to Determine Correct Grease Seals for 1959 Sea Breeze 5th Wheel Trailer
    I don't have a reference guide to provide me with that information, but if you can get me the diameter of the inner hub bore and the diameter of the spindle surface where the seal rides, I can recommend a seal for you, if one's available. When the diameter of the hub bore and the seal journal surface of the spindle is measured, the dimension needs to be accurate to 3 decimal places, so using a digital caliper like # PTW80157 is recommended. I've provided photo for you showing these dimensions.
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  • Replacement Trailer Grease Seal for GS-2250DL2017-42
    We have that exact replacement grease seal with the part # GS-2250DL which is the highest quality seal that is available for it. These are sold individually so if you needed more than one you'd need to order that as the quantity.
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  • Replacement Hub Seal for Dexter 7k Trailer Axle
    The interesting thing about Dexter 7k axles is that they could come with two different grease seals with the only difference being the inner diameter of the seal. If the inner diameter is 2.25 inch you'd want the part # 10-36 or if it's 2.125 you'd want # 21325. Easiest way to take this measurement is to pull a hub and measure the spindle where the seal rides.
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  • Grease Seal for a Dexter 7K Axle
    Based off the information you have provided me I was able to narrow down your options to two. Since you have a 7k Dexter axle you will need either a 2.25 ID grease seal or a 2.125 ID grease seal. Grease Seal - Double Lip - 21325 item # 21325 Grease Seal # GS-2250DL
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  • Correct Grease Seals For 5,200 lb Lippert Axle
    You mentioned grease seals for your 5,200 lb Lippert axle, which we do have, but since you also mentioned mating with bearing # 25580, I'm not sure if you were possibly referring to the bearing races, so I'll just go ahead and give you both parts just in case. The correct grease seals for your 5,200 lb Lippert axle, and the races for bearing # 25580 are the following: - Grease Seal # GS-2250DL - Replacement Race for 25580 Bearing # 25520 I did verify with Lippert for you that these are...
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  • Replacement Grease Seal for 7,000 Pound Dexter Axle
    The replacement grease seal for your 7,000 lb Dexter axle will either be the # GS-2125DL or # GS-2250DL. The difference is the inner diameter of the seal. The # GS-2250DL has an inner diameter of 2.250" and the # GS-2125DL has an inner diameter of 2.125". If you have the axle tag information Dexter should be able to identify the axle. If it cannot be identified for some reason, the only option would be to remove the seal and look for a part number or measure.
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  • Replacement Grease Seals for a Dexter 6,000 Pound Trailer Axle
    There are several different hubs that could be used on a Dexter 6,000 pound axle so to make sure that we get you the right seals the first time I would need to know the inner and outer bearing numbers stamped into the sides of the bearings. You will likely need either # RG06-090, which has a 2.125 inner diameter and a 3.376 inch outer diameter, or you will need # RG06-070, which has a 2.25 inner diameter and 3.376 outer diameter. The 2.125 inch seals can be used in place of the 2.25...
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  • Grease Seal for EZ Lube Trailer Hub with 25580 and 15123 Bearings
    There are 2 seal sizes associated with the bearings you have on your trailer. One of them has an inner diameter of 2-1/4 inches, # RG06-070, and the other has an inner diameter of 2-1/8 inches # RG06-090. You could use either size but the 2-1/8 will provide a tighter fit.
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  • Grease Seals Needed for a 1986, 27 Foot Boat Trailer with KOK 2947 2 Seals
    I have three seals with the 2.125 inner diameter. The Grease Seal, item # 21325, the Grease / Oil Seals 10-10 (Pair) - Double Lip Seals, item # RG06-090 and the Grease Seal GS-2125DL. The # 21325 grease seal has an outer diameter of 3.269 inches and is .50 inches thick. This is the only seal I stock with a 3.269 outer diameter. The # GS-2125DL and the # 10-10 grease seal have a outer diameter of 3.376 and are .31 and .430 inches thick respectively. These seals are viewed as interchangeable...
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  • Bearing/Race/Seal Kit for Boat Trailer w/ NOK AD7131E Seal 25580 Inner and LM67048 Outer Bearing
    Although we don't have a kit that includes the bearings/seal all in one package, you can certainly obtain the parts separately. You'll need: # 25580 inner bearing and its # 25520 race # LM67048 outer bearing and its # LM67010 race # 21325 Double Lip Grease Seal (cross references to the NOK seal you referenced) # 5-101 spindle washer # 165649 cotter pin I'll link you to our FAQ article about replacing bearings, races and seals.
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  • Grease Seals and Dust Caps for AL-KO Trailer Hubs with 25580 and 15123 Bearings
    The most grease seal associated with hubs that use the bearings you have specified is # GS-2250DL for 1 seal or # RG06-070 for a pair. For a grease cap you will likely need a 2.44 inch cap as that is the size associated with the hubs that use the bearings you mentioned. If the spindle has a grease fitting at the end use # RG04-080. If the spindles do not have grease fittings use # RG04-060.
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  • Grease Seal Needed for a 1980s EZ-Loader Boat Trailer with Two 6,000-Lb Axles
    The Trailer Hub Bearing, part # 25580, uses a Trailer Race, part # 25520, which has a outside diameter of 3.265 inches. The Grease Seal, part # 21325 is the only grease seal I have that will have an outside diameter of 3.269 inches and an inside diameter of 2.125 inches. The # 25580 inner bearing can be used with either a # 10-10 seal which is a double lip seal, or a # GS-2125DL seal which is a single lip seal. Both of these seals have an outside diameter of 3.376 inches and an inside...
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