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  1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
  2. TruRyde
  3. Seals
  4. Grease Seals - Double Lip
  5. 3.376 Inch O.D.
  6. 2.250 Inch I.D.
Grease Seals 10-36 (pair)

Grease Seals 10-36 (pair)

Item # RG06-070
Our Price: $10.93
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Shipping Weight: 0.19 lbs
In Stock
RG06-070 - 3.376 Inch O.D. TruRyde Seals
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Great Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from TruRyde. Grease Seals 10-36 (pair) part number RG06-070 can be ordered online at or call 1-636-747-0794 for expert service.
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TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - RG06-070

  • Seals
  • Grease Seals - Double Lip
  • 3.376 Inch O.D.
  • 2.250 Inch I.D.
  • TruRyde

Trailer Hub Grease Seals

  • Two 10-36 Seals per Package
  • Double Lip Seal
    • For single lip seal see # 42385

Use With:
2.250 3.376 E-Z Lube End Units

Seal Cross-Reference
Dexter #
Transcom #
National #
Chicago Rawhide #

RG06-070 Grease Seals 10-36 (pair)

Video of Grease Seals 10-36 (pair)

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.

Customer Satisfaction Score:

Customer Reviews

Grease Seals 10-36 (pair) - RG06-070

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (787 Customer Reviews)


What a wonderful experience dealing with Etrailers. Amy was outstanding in her service to me. Patient, friendly, and wanting to help me solve my problem.
The grease seals I ordered were spot on. I used the first one today and it fit perfectly. I filled the hub with grease and the seal held perfectly. Happy Boaters referred me to you and I can’t thank Dave enough for doing so. For future trailer needs, Etrailers will be my first stop. Thank you so much!!

Boat trailer has been in the water many times over the past year. We have to remember to grease the bearings about every three times it’s in the water. Your products have worked just fine. I was very pleased with the service and friendly advise given.
Louis - 07/20/2023


1 out of this pair ordered leaked all over the brake linings. This was not the first time this has happened. So this time I made sure not to use the easy lube fitting on the axles at all. I only hand pack the bearings.


E-trailer has been a great resource for getting the right trailer axle parts for me, for years. These seals worked great.


Perfect fit for Dexter 7K 12 inch hubs


I would like some better communication from Etrailer with a tracking number when parts are sent out. Other than that, no complaints.


Fit my Rockwood 5th wheel hub and axle


I was worried about finding the correct seals for my 5th wheel trailer. It was very easy to find and order the correct seals using their online website.


I bought 4 inner bearings, 4 outer bearings, 4 seals and 4 cotter pins. These were loose in the box with the loose outer bearings, luckily the bearings didn't damage the seals during shipping


Been using e trailer for these seals for years…very happy.


Fit as designed for my hubs. Good quality and priced low enough to take an extra set on the road with me. E-trailer makes it easy to keep up with trailer maintenance. Cleaning, inspecting, and packing bearings is a chore that requires new seals. I used to hate driving to a dealer to pick up seals because it was inconvenient. Ordering from e-trailer is fast and ensures I get the right product every year since I can simply review my previous orders and buy again.


Very nice grease seals.


Put these seals in two years ago when we rebuilt the axle assembly. They fit perfectly and have held up well. Got another set to have on hand when we check the wheel bearings this spring. The folks at etrailer are fantastic. Employees are super knowledgeable and helpful. This is the place to go for your parts.


Quality hub seals that fit perfectly. Costumer service was excellent.


These seals will work on an Airstream in a pinch, but they are not as meaty as the factory seals you buy from a dealer. Since I repack every few years, the seals never stay on for more than 2 years. I would buy these again as I keep a set for any unplanned issues with the running gear that might come up. These are far, far less expensive than the OEM replacement part.


These parts are identical to what was on our 2019 5th wheel. Delivery was great (2 days) and very well packed. It was easy to pick the correct parts using the tools on


I haven't put them in yet as they've just arrived. Compared to the one I've removed, they appear to be the correct replacement. I appreciate the customer support and quick delivery so I can get my project wrapped up quick.


Had ordered 4 grease seals, but only recieved 2. E-mailed etrailer and they rushed the additional 2 I had ordered.

Thanks for the great customer service!


Quality seals. Perfect fit thanks to the tech support dept.


No issues with this product. Great fit!


Ordered bearings fit perfectly. Have driven several hundred miles since installing on a utility trailer, all works as expected.


Worked well on my Columbus 5th wheel camper. Completed the entire removal and repack of all 8 bearings and put these seals on each of the 4 wheels. The seals fit very solid and were easy to top in. Be careful tapping them in and make sure all sides go in together by tapping around and around the seal. For those that can use a tool set and can safely get there camper tires off the ground this is a good self project that will save you a lot of money. Messy but worth the time.AND ALWAYS CHANGE THE SEALS.


Good as always. Ontime and the right part. Thank you that makes my part easy


This item wasn't shipped in the original order but made it on time for the fix before we leave.


Worked as they should



Show More Reviews

See what our Experts say about this TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Replacement Seal for a Lippert 12088 Seal
    The Lippert Seal part number 122088 that you referenced has the same dimensions of 2.25 inner and 3.376 outer diameter as the Grease Seals # 10-36 that you referenced so they should work well for you. Seal width should not matter, the only important dimensions are inner and outer diameter.
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  • How to Determine which Dexter Axle is on a Trailer
    It sounds like the 6K might be referring to 6,000 pounds although I cannot be 100 percent sure on that. I could tell you for sure if you could tell me the inner and outer bearing numbers stamped in to the bearings. A 7K axle will use inner bearing 25580 or 28580 and outer bearing 14125A, 15123, or 25580. A 6K axle will use inner bearing 25580 or 501349 and outer bearing 14125A, 15123, 506849, or LM67048. A 5200 pound axle will use inner bearing 25580 and outer bearing 14125A, 15213,...
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  • How to Pick Out Correct Replacement Seals for a Trailer Hub
    In order to get the correct replacement seal you will want to remove the seal from your hub and get the number stamped on it. If you can't find the number you can also use the dimensions of your seal to get the correct replacement. Get the outer diameter of the seal, and then using a dial caliper measure the diameter of the surface that the seal rides on the spindle and we will be able to find you the correct spindle. I attached a link to a page that has all of our grease seals.
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    Image 1 for Image 2 for
  • Replacement Dexter Seal for 6,500 Axle K71-386-00
    You will need the part # RG06-070. I looked up the K71-386-00 seal that you mentioned and it has an inner diameter of 2.25 inches and an outer diameter of 3.376 inches. This seal is normally seen on 5.2k Dexter axles all the way up to 8k axles.
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  • What Coating is on TruRyde Grease Seal 10-36 # RH06-070
    I spoke with my contact at TruRyde and the Grease Seals 10-36 # RG06-070 that you referenced are packaged in an oil lined sleeve which is the darker color that you see in the picture on the product page. This oil is used to preserve the rubber seal from drying out.
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  • Replacement Grease Seals for Dexter Part # 010-036-00 on a 7,000lb Trailer Axle
    The Tru Ryde grease seals you mentioned, part # RG06-70 are indeed a replacement for the 10-036-00 Dexter seals. They would work great for your application.
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  • TruRyde 10-36 Replacement Spring Recommendation for a Dexter Seal K71-305-00
    Yes, the Grease Seals 10-36 # RG06-070 that you referenced does have a garter spring as it is the exact same seal as your Dexter seal K71-305-00.
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  • Advantage of Double Lip Grease Seals Versus Single Lip
    A double lip seal is an upgrade over the single lip that uses a reinforcing spring behind the lip that does a better job of retaining the grease inside the hub and excluding water and road grime. It is perfectly acceptable to use a double lip seal for non-ez lube spindles.
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  • Do Grease Seals Need to be Replaced When Changing Out Brake Shoes on a 12k Dump Trailer
    As long as the seals are in good condition, you should not need to change them out in order to replace your current brake shoes, because the assembly itself will stay mounted and the seal would come off with the hub drum. As a suggestion, however, while you have your hub drum off to replace the shoes, I would also just go ahead and repack your bearings. If you did this you would have to replace the seal, but with the amount of usage it sounds like your trailer is getting, it would be a...
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  • Using Gasket Maker on Grease Seals
    Using the gasket product is not really necessary, as the 10-36 double lip seal will do a good job of keeping the grease in its place unless the hub is being overfilled with grease. If you are dealing with a idler hub with no brake assembly or brake mounting flange on the axle, applying some of the product to the seal AFTER the hub is in place on the spindle would be fine, but placing the gasket product on the seal before the hub is slid onto the spindle could cause the gasket material to...
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  • Which Grease Seal Will Fit a Dexter K71-305-00 For My Trailer Axle
    The correct grease seal for your axle is # RG06-070. I've attached a video review for you to take a look at.
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  • How to Determine Correct Replacement Grease Seal for 44251
    The only reference I could find to a 44251 is that it is a "vintage" seal and there were no dimensions given, and the National 471801 seal seems to be an automotive seal that does not match any dimensions of trailer grease seals. The bearing numbers you gave are consistent with a 3,500 lb axle so they make sense but there really is only one way to definitively determine the right grease seal for your trailer. What you will have to do is use digital caliper and measure your spindle to...
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  • Dexter 010-036-00 Seal Replacement
    The Dexter 010-036-00 seals are the same seals as the National seals 452920/482920 if that is what you are asking. TruRyde Grease Seals 10-36 part # RG06-070 will replace the Dexter 010-036-00 or the National seals 452920/482920.
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  • Trailer Hub Seal Recommendation for Hub with Bearings 15123 and 25580
    For that bearing combo the recommended seal is the part # RG06-070 which has an inner diameter of 2.25 inch and and outer diameter of 3.376 inch. If yours has a different measurement let me know and I'll see what we have that would fit.
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  • Replacement Dexter Grease Seal for Seal Part K71-386-00
    Yes, you can use the seal part # RG06-070. I looked up the K71-386-00 seal that you mentioned and it has matching dimensions, an inner diameter of 2.25 inches and an outer diameter of 3.376 inches. This seal is commonly found on Dexter axles rated from 5200-lbs to 8000-lbs.
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  • Weight Capacity of the Dexter Axle SN D4610721
    I spoke to my contact at Dexter Axle and they informed me that the serial number D4610721 is for a 7,000 lb axle. If you need any parts for the axle/trailer then please let me know what they are and I would be glad to recommend them for you. I have attached a link of our trailer parts page for you as well.
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  • Replacement Grease Seal for Dico 16859 Trailer Hub
    In order to find the correct replacement grease seal for your 1986 Northwoods Boat Trailer with Dico 16859 hubs you would need to measure the spindle and trailer hub where the grease seal sits with a digital caliper to the nearest thousandth of an inch. I have attached a photo to assist as well in addition to our selection of grease seals. Unfortunately, I was not able to reference the Dico 16859 hub.
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  • Grease Seal Replacement Recomendation for Lippert Seal 122088
    We have just what you need. The grease seal you are looking for is our part # RG06-070 which matches the dimensions you listed and is a double lip seal. Hubs only have inner seals though as a grease cap sits on the outside. Are you looking for a cap as well?
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  • Replacement Grease Seal for National 412920 on Heartland 5th Wheel Trailer
    For a grease seal that will replace your existing National 412920, you can use the TruRyde Grease Seals # RG06-070. These feature the same inner and outer diameter as the National model that you referenced and will work well. This seal is also typically found on 7,000 pound axles like what your trailer has, so this should be the correct size. A grease seal is designed to help prevent water and dirt from entering the hubs, while providing protection against bearing failure. With this in...
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  • How to Identify Correct Replacement Grease Seal for RV with Lippert Axle
    The best way to find the correct replacement grease seals for the hubs on your Lippert 5200-lb axle is to pull one hub and remove the seal to get its part number. The info you provided (thank you) is a model description but the actual axle serial number or the variant number (starts with a "V") will allow Lippert to pull the actual bill of material for your specific axle and tell you the seal part without you having to pull the old one. If you can get me the serial number I will be glad...
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  • Trostel 324-216-8 Replacement Grease Seal
    Many times the thickness of the grease seals # RG06-070 is not a factor. If this is a trailer hub there should be enough room for the seal to fit flush with seal flange.
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  • Comparing Chinese Bearings with Bearings Made in the USA
    A bearing, no matter where it is made, has to meet certain standards for use in the United States. With that said there are some cases where despite having to meet these standards, the US made product is better. When it comes to bearings though I have seen USA made bearings fail as much as Chinese bearings. And I have seen each perform well. The key is to keep the bearings properly lubricated, packed with grease. If someone neglects basic maintenance then they will have trouble, no matter...
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  • Grease Seal Recommendation for Dexter 7,000 lb Axle Hub
    The part number you are in need of is the part # RG06-070 which includes two 10-36 seals that match the dimensions you mentioned exactly.
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  • Replacement Grease Seal for Transcom TCM22333TBN
    The part number "TCM22333TBN" that you referenced on your grease seal cross-references to the Grease Seals 10-36 part # RG06-070. If you need any other parts for your trailer hubs i.e. bearings or races, I would need to know either the part number or inner and outer diameters in order to recommend replacements for you.
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