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Replacement Race for 02475 Bearing

Replacement Race for 02475 Bearing

Item # 02420
Our Price: $11.96
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Shipping Weight: 0.34 lbs
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Replacement Race for 02475 Bearing 2.688 Inch O.D. 02420
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Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with 02475 bearing. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Great Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Race for 02475 Bearing part number 02420 can be ordered online at or call 1-800-940-8924 for expert service.
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  • Reviews (34)
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  • Videos (2)
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - 02420

  • Races
  • Standard Races
  • 8000 lbs Axle
  • 2.688 Inch O.D.
  • Bearing 02475
  • etrailer
  • Race 02420

Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with 02475 bearing. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


  • Outer diameter: 2.688"
  • Matching bearing (sold separately): 02475

02420 Replacement Trailer Hub Race

Video of Replacement Race for 02475 Bearing

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.

Customer Satisfaction Score:

Customer Reviews

Replacement Race for 02475 Bearing - 02420

Average Customer Rating:  4.7 out of 5 stars   (34 Customer Reviews)

Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with 02475 bearing. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


The products were right and exactly what I needed. I have been using Etrailer for a year now for my business. Customer service is awesome. I recommend them to all my associates.


It would have been a five star rating except the bearings, races, seals, bolts and nuts were all rattling around together in the box. I will have to check for any damage to the bearings, races and seals.

Etrailer Expert

Jenny N.


Oh my! If there is any damage we are happy to take care of it for you. Customer Service will be in touch with you.


This braking system is the best now you can drive with confidence knowing that when you apply your brakes your going to stop there should be some more stars they only have 5 am adding 5 more


Parts arrived on time. What was disappointing is that the bearings races and seals were just tossed into the box and left to rattle around during shipping. Other than that the parts look good.


I found out recently that Dexter Axle, Rockwell International, and Kodiak Brake company are all using Chinese manufactured bearings & races on their products they sell. I sold bearings & races all my adult life, so I am familiar with these products. I wanted to give them a try on my application, to see if they are good enough to hold up on my big trailer application. After receiving the races & bearings, they looked like good quality products. I greased them, and installed them with no issues. Time will tell if they are going to hold up. I am confident that they meet stringent manufacturing tolerances or they would't sell them. They look great, but I would like them packaged better. They came loosely shipped in a box.



After running these Races, Bearings & Seals for a year. I am happy to report that I had no issues what so ever. My trailer weighs 18,000 lbs empty, and more then 25,000 lbs loaded. It has 3 axles. After servicing the bearings for 1 year of use, there were no signs of failure. It made a believer out of me using these imported products.


I have a 2018 Forest River Cedar Creek that has a gross weight of over 16K and found I had issues with panic stops. Decided to put on Kodiak disc brakes and the install was easy with the help of staff and the video from etrailer. I can tell you the trailer now has the ability to stop when I need it. This should be an option on all heavy trailers. 10 times better stopping ability.

Eaglecrest A.


Just repacked the bearings and no dark burnt grease on the outer bearing like the OE equipment. Great product..


Got the missing items!


The products are excellent. The shipping and handling leaves a lot to be desired. My first package went two day shipping to a previous address I used( we're full time RV ers). The reshipping to the correct address was supposed to be 2 day but it went ground and took a week. The parts in the box were half correct even though the representative assured me he had the right parts.
I reordered the parts, 2 day express and the package sat for a day. Ups said they had a label but no box. etrailer said it shipped. Three days later I get the box. So far I have no commitment from etrailer to do anything with regard to a refund for my trouble. Hard to pull a fifth wheel with no bearings.

Etrailer Expert

Sierra K.


Customer service will contact you regarding the shipping.


Sales staff were very knowledgeable and curtious answered all my questions and concerns


Bearings were received in a timely way, installed and have1500 miles on them with no problems. I use etrailer for all my trailer needs and have always gotten good product and good service.


I received order on time as I was told , all parts looks great ,,,I have not installed yet,,but I will continue to get my parts from Etrailer,,Great prices,,On time delivery,,,,Thanks Mark,,and Etrailer


Hi I got all my stuff and packaging was great. I ordered these parts for back up if I have issues on the road with my RV you seem to have everything I need and great product with great price.



I ordered these parts as spares so if I have a problem on the road. Look good and should work fine.


Received product, installed as expected, will see how it performs.

Nick W.


Product is working out well...we haul horses, and keep up on maintain. Reg. Expect to get many miles out of bearings and races..


I purchased several products. They arrived as expected. No surprises. Prices are reasonable. Most products have a video review and other helpful product information.


I've had zero issues, performance is as I would expect



Great product,for the very low price


The products all looked great and I was very please about the quick shipping! Usually, free shipping takes forever.




Fit as described.


great product , fast delivery


OEM fit.


Show More Reviews

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  • Correct Bearings, Seals, and Brakes for a Lippert 8,000 Lb Axle
    The Lippert 8,000 Lb Axles use a part # 25580 inner bearing, a part # 02475 outer bearing, and a part # GS-2250DL grease seal. Then for the brakes, you'd need the Electric Trailer Brake Kit part # AKEBRK-8. In regards to the leaf springs and shackle straps, you'd need to measure for these unfortunately but if you let me know the type and length of the leaf springs I'd be glad to see if we have an an option for you.
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  • Trailer Hitch and Bike Rack Recommendations for a 2003 Montana 5th Wheel Trailer
    To install a trailer hitch on your 2003 Montana 5th wheel trailer you will need a frame mounted RV hitch. I have included a link to the frame mount RV hitches we carry. The most versatile option is the Curt adjustable hitch # 13703. It fits trailer frames from 22 to 72 inches wide. It will attach to box frames, C-channel frames, and I-Beam frames. It can be bolted or welded on. Welding should be done by a qualified professional welder. This hitch can be installed at home if you are comfortable...
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  • Is there a 2-Bike Add-On for the Yakima StickUp Trailer Hitch Mount Bike Rack
    The Yakima StickUp, # Y02420, is stuck being a 2-bike rack. There is no add-on that will allow you to carry 4 bikes. Since you need to carry 4 bikes you have some options. You can go with a full time 4-bike rack or you can go with a 2-bike rack that does have an add-on feature that will allow you to carry 2 bikes when needed. I will give you the best options for each of these racks based on similar functionality and other characteristics displayed by the StickUp. For a strictly 4-bike...
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  • Is TruRyde Outer Bearing # LM67048 Equal to Timken Bearing 02475
    The outer bearing in the TruRyde Bearing Kit, part # BK3-300, is part # LM67048. This outer bearing has an internal diameter of 1.25 inches and uses a bearing race # LM67010 with an outer diameter of 2.328 inches. The bearing kit # BK3-300 is designed for 5,200-lbs axle, 6,000-lbs axle, and 7,000-lbs axle. I looked up a Timken # 02475 bearing and it also shows an internal diameter of 1.25 inches, but is rated for a larger 8,000-lb axle, so it will be used on a larger hub with a different...
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  • Recommendation for Finding a 2 Bike Rack and Hitch for My 2006 Honda CR-V
    For your 2006 Honda CR-V, I would recommend the Curt Trailer Hitch for the 2006 Honda CR-V, item # 13535. Installation of this hitch is easy (see video and instructions link) and the 2 inch receiver opening will allow versatility for selecting other items as your needs may change in the future. The 1-1/4 inch hitches available for your CR-V will limit choices now and in the future. In my opinion you will be much happier with a 2 inch hitch and wheel mount style bike rack. Once you have...
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  • Replacement Bearings and Seals for 10K Dexter Axles on 2018 Big Tex Trailer
    According to my research the replacement bearings and seals you need for the 10K Dexter Axles on your 2018 Big Tex trailer are parts # 02475 (race # 02420), # 25580 (race # 25520), and # RG06-070. You can verify this by pulling your hub and checking the numbers on the bearings themselves or if you can get me the part number off of your axle I can call Dexter and verify this for you.
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  • How to Install Races in a Hub Assembly
    We do not carry a tool that will help install your races, though I can pass on some information for you that might be helpful. To install your races, this is what you'll want to do, according to our help article on replacing bearings, races and seals on a trailer hub (which I'll link for you). First, place the race in the hub, thin edge towards the outside. Carefully tap in the race until it is level with the hub. After the race is level, the old race can be used to push the new race farther...
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  • Hub Replacement for 8000-lb AL-KO Axle
    The best way to determine whether or not a hub is going to fit your axle and spindle is to check the bearing dimensions on your current hub-since that will determine what fits on your spindle. The size/capacity of the axle is more secondary when compared the hub fitting on the spindle; you'll also want to make sure the bolt pattern works with your current wheels to avoid having to purchase new wheels. If your current hub uses inner bearing # 25580 (1.75" inner diameter), outer bearing...
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Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Wilson B
Updated by:
Wilson B

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