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Replacement Race for 15123 Bearing

Replacement Race for 15123 Bearing

Item # 15245
Our Price: $4.64
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Shipping Weight: 0.18 lbs
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Race for 15123 Bearing
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Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with 15123 bearing. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Great Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Race for 15123 Bearing part number 15245 can be ordered online at or call 1-800-940-8924 for expert service.
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - 15245

  • Races
  • Standard Races
  • 5200 lbs Axle
  • 6000 lbs Axle
  • 7000 lbs Axle
  • 2.441 Inch O.D.
  • Bearing 15123
  • etrailer
  • Race 15245

Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with 15123 bearing. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


  • Outer diameter: 2.441"
  • Matching bearing (sold separately): 15123

15245 Replacement Trailer Hub Race

Video of Replacement Race for 15123 Bearing

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.

Customer Satisfaction Score:

Customer Reviews

Replacement Race for 15123 Bearing - 15245

Average Customer Rating:  4.7 out of 5 stars   (64 Customer Reviews)

Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with 15123 bearing. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Shipping should have been faster


Bought new axel parts and brakes bigger wheels for my boat trailer. My existing axel was 20 years old and never was adequate for the weight it hauled causing wheel bearings to wear out and the chance of loosing a wheel. This was the most economical way to repair as a new trailer was so expensive. All the parts I needed were available and went together beautifully. Very happy with etrailer, this is not the first time I have ordered from them great option for any parts you need.


I ordered a set of 4 inner and outer bearings, races, seals, and dust caps for my fifth wheel along with a power cord. The price from etrailer was excellent and the product was shipped in a very timely manner. My only complaint is the seals, bearings and races were not individually packaged and rattled around loose during shipment in the large box sized to hold the power cord.


Used these on a homemade flatbed reusing an old camper axle from the 50's the numbers on the old bearings did not cross to anything current, fortunately E Trailer has the specs online a few measurements with a caliper and you are in business. Thanks E Trailer


I went to two auto part stores and they didn't have parts in stock nor did they want to spend time finding the the seal for me. I came home discourage that I was going to have to replace the old bearings and seals. I decided to check on line and with the help of, I was able to find the part numbers I needed. I was nervous that the were not going to fit, but they arrived today and appear to be the correct sizes. Shipment was very quick and items were well packed. Great site to do business with and I recommend them to anyone that will listen. Thanks for a great site.


The trailer I'm rebuilding had obsolete bearings, but using a caliper I was able to find everything on etrailer. My local trailer supply place was ridiculously over priced so I went with etrailer. Thank You for the quick delivery.


Exactly what I needed. Great customer service and fast shipping


I ordered 4 bearing and races from at after 8pm. I was notified at 9:38pm that the order had been shipped. choose 3 day shipping but received in day and a half. Can't beat this kind of service!! Plus the product was exactly what I ordered will be doing more business with Etrailer in the future.


I have an older boat trailer and was able to find all the parts I needed to get it back on the road on


Good bearings.

Mike L.


Product is still fine.


Excellent: big issue to me: salesperson knew what she was selling. Bearings are for later when we check the brakes and bearings in June on the trailer


Prompt, accurate service as usual. We're currently away from delivery location and won't be back to install the parts for another 3 weeks.


Couldn't ask for a better product or service.
From placing my order to delivery everything went exceptionally well. Thank you etrailer.


You guys are the best, I've already recommended you to several of my friends.

Matt G.


Im pleased to in form you that those parts as well as everything Ive ordered since are all performing perfectly. I will continue to use your services for my trailer needs.


Was able to find and get everything I needed. Very happy with the products and service.


Fast delivery perfect replacement part


Very fast on delivery , great company to buy trailer parts from. Thank you


once again e-trailer had the part I needed and was here before I knew it.


Everything is running great thank you you guys have a great company appreciate it and get it out quick and it’s always right




Fit was correct, and it seems to be working as it should.


No need to purchase these separately when buying the prepackaged kit. It comes with it even though it is not pictured.


The service was great. It was nice to talk to a real person who knew what you were talking about and get the right part.


Real good products, exactly what I ordered. Thanks


They worked just the way i would expect.

Show More Reviews

See what our Experts say about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Replacement Bearing For Timken 15123 Trailer Hub Bearing
    We do offer the Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing, part # 15123 for your trailer but I was unable to find a cross-reference for the Timken 09067 bearing you stated you need. You can measure the inner diameter and see if there are any bearings from the attached pages that would work as a replacement for you. We also offer the matching race for the 15123 and that is part # 15245.
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  • Proper Bearing Replacement Based on Both Inner Diameter of Bearing and Outer Diameter of Race
    With the inner diameter of your bearing being 1.250 inches, there are currently 5 options as you stated. The best way to determine fit is to find your race number or to measure your bearing race inside your hub. The outer diameter of that race will help us confirm the proper bearing fit. For instance, if the outer diameter of the race is 2.441 inches, then we know the race is # 15245 and the bearing needed is # 15123. I've attached a photo to assist.
    view full answer...
    Image 1 for
  • Replacement Bearings and Races for Single Axle Trailer with National Oil Seal 412920
    Sounds like you will need the # 15123 bearing and # 15245 race for that bearing. For the # 25580 bearing, you'll need the # 25520 race. For the oil seal you would need part # 9103309 which is the exact same as your 412920. We do not have a full kit of this so they are all sold separately. I have linked all the above mentioned products to this page for your convenience.
    view full answer...
  • Availability of Bearing Race to Match Bearing Number LM67048
    The matching race for the bearing part # LM67048 that you referenced is the part # LM67010. This has an outer diameter of 2.328 inches. The race we have that has an outer diameter of 2.441 inch is the part # 15245 which is designed for the bearing # 15123. The # 15123 happens to have an inner diameter of 1.25 inch like the # LM67048 that you mentioned as well.
    view full answer...
  • Bearings and Races for Trailer with Al KO Axle 4,400 lb Axle
    An Al KO 4,400 lb trailer axle uses the bearings # 15123 and # 25580 and races # 25520 and # 15245.
    view full answer...
  • Bearing Recommendation with an Inner Diameter of 1.25 inches
    The bearing part # 15123 that you referenced has an inner diameter of 1.25 inches. The matching race for this bearing though is part # 15245 which has an outer diameter of 2.441 inches. It sounds like you actually need bearing part # Lm67048 and race # LM67010 since you said you need an ID of 1.25 and an OD of 2.328.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings for an AL KO 5,200 lb Axle
    The AL-KO 5,200 lb axle uses the inner bearing # 25580 and outer bearing part # 15123 and grease seal # RG06-090. For races you would want # 25520 and # 15245.
    view full answer...
  • What is the Difference Between 1.25 Inch Trailer Bearings
    The short answer is Yes, bearing # 15123 is slightly larger and stronger than # LM67048 and they use different races which means they are not interchangeable. Bearing 15123 uses race # 15245 which has an outer diameter of 2.441 inches and bearing LM67048 uses race # LM67010 which has an outer diameter of 2.328 inches. The size and strength differences are due to the fact that bearing # 15123 is used in a higher weight capacity hub. Bearing # 15123 is the outer bearing for a hub for a...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings, Races and Seals for an Old Frehauf Trailer with 15123 Outer Bearings
    You will most likely need the Bearing Kit, 15123/ 25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal, item # BK3-100, or Bearing Kit, 15123/25580 Bearings,10-10 Seal, item # BK3-110 for your replacement parts, since your outer bearing is a Timken 15123. Races for the these bearings are the # 15245 Race, for 15123 Bearing, and the # 28521, Race, for 28580 Bearing. The only way to really tell which bearings, races and seals you need for sure is to remove the hub and record all of the part numbers you can find....
    view full answer...
  • How to Measure Grease Seal's Inner Diameter
    The Replacement Inner Trailer Hub Bearing for 15123 is item # 15123. It has a inner diameterof 1.250. The matching race is # 15245. Since your other bearing measures 1.750" it is a match with, Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 25580 Item # 25580. The matching race is # 25520. The above bearings and races are included in bearing kits # BK3-100 and # BK3-110. You will need to measure on your spindle where the seal sits for its inner diameter location, that is marked "B" on the attached...
    view full answer...
    Image 1 for
  • Replacement Bearings, Races, and Seals for Trailer
    The Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing # 15123 and .750 inch outer bearing # LM11949, will use races # LM11910 and # 15245. For seals, that inner bearing often is used with the Grease Seals 10-36 (pair) # RG06-070 which have an inner diameter 2.250 inches of and outer diameter of 3.376. I recommend using a caliper like # PTW80157 to get a precise measurement to confirm fit.
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  • Recommendation For Hub Upgrade For Mobile Home Axle
    Mobile home axles, hubs, and parts are designed for more of a one time use. Most of the time, replacement parts and options are not available. However, since you found the bearing numbers (Inner Bearing Item # 25580 and Outer Bearing Item # 15245) then Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly, Item # AKHD-655-6-EZ-K, might work. Before going forward with this option, there a few things to consider regarding right fit of Item # AKHD-655-6-EZ-K. First, This assembly is specially designed for E-Z...
    view full answer...
  • Bearing and Seal Size for Rockwell 5200 Torsion Boat Trailer Axle
    The bearing size on your 5200 lbs Rockwell torsion axle trailer is 1.75" I.D. pn 25580 for the inner bearing and 1.250" I.D. pn 15123 . The Inner race is 3.265” O.D. pn 25520 and the outer race is 2.441” O.D. pn 15245 . The 2.25" I.D. double lipped grease seal is item # GS-2250DLGS-2250DL. The kit for your 5200 lbs Rockwell trailer is Bearing Kit, LM67048/25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal item # BK3-300.
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  • Bearing Kit Solution for Trailer Axle with Bearing Numbers 25580 15123
    We have the # 15123 bearing in the bearing kit # BK3-100 or you could piece the kit together individually with # 15245, # 25580, # 25520 and grease seal # GS-2250DL.
    view full answer...
  • Is Spindle Available For Kodiak 12 Inch Hub And Rotor Assembly For 5,200 - 6,000 Lb Axles
    We do not offer a spindle that will work with part # KHR12D. This hub is designed to fit 5,200 - 6,000 lb axles and wheels that are 15 inches diameter or larger. You can contact your local axle retailer and ask about a spindle that will work with this Hub. The inner bearing (sold separately), is part # 25580 and has an inner diameter of 1.750. The outer bearing (sold separately), is part # 15123 and has an inner diameter of 1.250. The inner race (included), part # 25520 has an outer...
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  • What Are The Weight Capacities for Dexter D9341602 and D8341602 Axles?
    I reached out to Dexter who informed me you have D60, 6,000lb axles. While I can tell you this uses the Inner Bearing # 25580, Inner Race # 25520, Outer Bearing # 15123 and Outer Race # 15245. You will need to determine if you need either the 2.125" # GS-2125DL or 2.250" # GS-2250DL grease seal by measuring the grease seal on your current hub. Please let me know if you need help finding other parts for your axles.
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  • Bearings and Grease Seals Needed for Kodiak Stainless Steel 6-on-5-1/2 Trailer Hub KH42655S
    Kodiak Stainless Steel 6-on-5-1/2 Trailer Hub # KH42655S does not include but uses inner bearing # 25580 and outer bearing # 15123. Races # 25520 and # 15245 ARE included with the hub.
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  • Will the Bearing Kit for Disc Brakes # DBRKHW6 Fit a Hayes T52 5,200 lb Axle
    To determine whether or not the Bearing Kit for Disc Brakes # DBRKHW6 will fit your Hayes T52 5,200 lb axle you will first need to pull a hub and locate the inner and outer bearing numbers as well as the number for your grease seal. The kit includes inner bearings # 25580 and outer bearings # 15123 with their races, grease seals # GS-2250DL, as well as drive-in grease caps # F001520 (with a 2.446" outer diameter), and 10 of our 1/2" trailer wheel lug nuts # CE11051. If you cannot find...
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    Image 1 for
  • Replacement Bearings, Races & Seal For Timbren 3,500LB Axle-Less Suspension and 6,000LB Trailer Hubs
    Thank you for the pictures. Your Timbren 3500 Axle-Less system has the upgraded heavy duty spindle. This will use the Bearing Kit # BK3-100. This will include the following components if you do not want the entire kit. Inner Bearing # 25580 Inner Race # 25520 Outer Bearing # 15123 Outer Race # 15245 Grease Seal # GS-2250DL Cotter Pin # 165649
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  • How to Find Replacement Trailer Hub Assembly for Dual Axle Trailer with 6 on 5-1/2 Bolt Pattern
    To ensure you get the correct replacement hubs for your trailer, you will need to find either the bearing numbers on your existing hub assembly or you can measure the spindle if these cannot be found. The bearing numbers should be stamped onto the bearings themselves. I have attached an image that shows what numbers or dimensions are needed. When measuring the spindle, I recommend using a digital caliper like # PTW80157 to get the most accurate measurement possible. For example, the
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  • Hub and Drum Assembly with Inner Bearing 1.75 ID and Outer Bearing 1.25 ID
    Thank you for providing the inner diameter of the two bearings; that is especially helpful when trying to determine which replacement parts are going to work. Even though we can confirm the bearings are a fit, you'll also want to make sure that the grease seals on any hub/drum assembly, as well as the races are a match for your. I'll also take this opportunity that while mobile home axles are cheap and readily available, they're really only designed to be used the one time and then discarded;...
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  • Hub and Drum Assembly For Mobile Home Axle?
    I'll start off by saying that mobile home axles are designed for a single use, which is why they're so cheap and easy to come by. In most situations the components on these axles are not designed to be replaced, so replacement parts aren't readily available; that's not to say that it's impossible though. In order to determine if you can use something like the Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # 8-201-9UC3-EZ to replace the hubs on your mobile home axle you'll need to make sure that...
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  • Determining Which Replacement Brakes and Hubs Fit 1966 Frolic Camper
    Thanks for all of the pictures and measurements! Based on the pictures of the braking assembly you have 10" diameter brakes with the the 4 bolt mounting pattern that is 2-7/8" apart. For compatible brakes we have the Dexter Nev-R-Adjust Electric Trailer Brake Kit - 10" - Left and Right Hand Assemblies - 3.5K # 23-468-469. Now when it comes the hubs we unfortunately do not have one that uses inner bearing # 15123 and outer bearing # 09067 so your best course of action will be replacing...
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  • Replacement Trailer Brake Assemblies For a 2011 Forest River Sierra 5TH Wheel Camper
    I recommend the Dexter Nev-R-Adjust Electric Trailer Brake Kit # 23-458-459 for your 2011 Forest River Sierra 300RL. These will only require you to adjust the brakes to ensure they are set correctly when you install them. After that they will self adjust themselves as the brake material wears away. This will ensure your brakes last longer and will keep you out from under the trailer adjusting the brakes. The Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # AKHD-655-6-EZ-K will provide you with a new hub/drum...
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Employee Jeff D
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Employee Wilson B
Updated by:
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