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Bearing Kit, 14125A/ 25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal

Bearing Kit, 14125A/ 25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal

Item # BK3-200
Our Price: $29.94
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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BK3-200 - Standard Bearings,Bearing Kits etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Great Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Bearing Kit, 14125A/ 25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal part number BK3-200 can be ordered online at or call 1-800-940-8924 for expert service.
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - BK3-200

  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • Bearing Kits
  • 7000 lbs Axle
  • Bearing 14125A and 25580
  • etrailer
  • Race 25520 and 14276

Trailer Hub Bearing Kit

Kit Includes:
  • One Inner Bearing and Race
  • One Outer Bearing and Race
  • Grease Seal
  • Cotter Pin
Outer Bearing
Inner Bearing
Seal I.D.

BK3-200 Bearing Kit, 14125A/ 25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal

Video of Bearing Kit, 14125A/ 25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.

Customer Satisfaction Score:

Customer Reviews

Bearing Kit, 14125A/ 25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal - BK3-200

Average Customer Rating:  4.7 out of 5 stars   (312 Customer Reviews)


Great product and great service.Went on real easy.Got alot of help making sure I had correct parts for my axles.Will definitely shop there again.


This is one of those times where I really needed to stop and take the time to write a review. If you look at the pictures you will see that I have a tri-axle trailer and I had no paperwork on the brakes when I bought it from the original owner. So I call e trailer and I get Cathy T on the phone. I ask her if trailers are her specialty and she says "sure they are" I said ok great lets dig in but I don't know what I have but I told her I did have a caliper to measure. So after about an hour on the phone she questioned me enough to figure out the front and rear bearing AND race sizes, the seal size AND the replacement break assembly kit to use. I never once felt rushed and she was awesome !! There was a lot to ask about to make sure we got it right and guess what Cathy T NAILED IT. Check out the picture of the parts on the bench. Every part was exactly what I needed. It all worked out perfectly and I cannot say enough good things about my experience with e trailer and Cathy T. If you EVER need help with a trailer E Trailer is the ONLY place to go. The price is incredible and the service is even better. What an awesome organization. Thank you E Trailer and Cathy T


Only two of the four bearings/races fit my application. Against the odds I did manage to find the proper combination at a dedicated bearing warehouse. Don't trust claims of proper fit on older mobile home axles.


Bearings came complete and so far have held up great for a year with no problems pulling around a 10,000lb skid steer every week


Always get the correct/best parts from etrailer....thanks


Good product and great company to deal with.


FKN perfect part; fast AF


Quality bearings and fit perfect.


some of the bags were ripped open and contents scattered in box

Etrailer Expert

Jenny N.


Oh goodness! I will have our Customer Service team reach out to you.


Bearing are in good condition and look good. One thing you can count on, is e trailer, great service and great shipping.


The customer service team really helped me identify the parts required. Shipping time was minimal. Here in Florida, placing the races in the freezer and removing just before installation aided in getting them in.


The brake assys fit perfectly.. They don't even need adjusting. The project is not completed , It's pretty much a rebuild,The bearings are also a perfect fit.. Thanks for your intrest and great service, I'm 82 years old and have been at this since I was in hi school. Thanks again, Vern


The ease of ordering, pricing and quick shipping is why I’ve used etrailer several times. I can’t really review the bearings because they were placed on a boat trailer that has only traveled not much over a mile from the ramp to a parking lot. But the slowly turning wheels were much quieter than with the old loose and squeaky ones. These were placed on a sailboat trailer with two 7,000 lbs axles. I’ll use etrailer again if a need arises.


I would give you more but your packaging sucks! Your product came in small packages inside box with 4 of your electric drum brakes. The brakes were in there loosely packed with some packing paper. Of course every small package is torn up! Pretty silly to me. Now I’m missing 2 cotter pins! The packages are open in the boxes and no pins anywhere. I don’t have time to wait for your company to send me some pins. Frankly, you guys just need to think a little.


Still working to make sure I have the right bearings. Without numbers, its difficult to match them up. There are multiple options for the same trailer


Great communication and customer service. The parts arrived quickly.


Great value and fast service


Inside Bearing didn’t fit the trailer ordered it for but the outside ones did. Good quality product. Make sure you get the part numbers right before you order. I was lazy and didn’t pull the back bearing before I ordered


Parts were just what I needed, delivery was on time, thank you!


Always quick delivery. product is quali ty


As always with etrailer, great experience. Excellent customer service and fast shipping. Will definitely be shopping again in the future,


I received my order on time and complete. I am very pleased with the product and the professionalism of etrailer. They had the trailer parts I needed, answers to my questions, pictures to compare products, and kits that were just what I needed. I will be ordering from these folks again!



Everything is working great from my order. Etrailer has helped me with other questions as well. Thank you very much!


everything looks great. only time will tell.


After a lot of research with the help of etrailer support I purchased the Kodiak Disc Brake Kit K2HR712 and installed on a 2013 Dutchmen Rubicon 2900 with 7K lippert axles to replace the 13” Electric drum brakes. I discovered any questions about whether the disc hubs would fit my axle was eliminated when I realized I just had to verify the wheel bearing numbers for the disc hubs were the same as what was on my axles. (bearings, caps and seals do not come with the kit and need to be ordered separately).
My trailer had dual axles, the disc kits came in separate boxes that did fairly well in shipping, nothing poking out of the boxes or anything. Parts matched and fitted without any problems. Again, etrailer support was very helpful in getting the correct parts and any questions I had during the installation. I could have done this myself however I choose to have a brake tech do the hydraulic lines and bleed the system out. Very satisfied with the product and support.


Did not get a chance to use them. While traveling out west stopped for fuel. Checked all the wheels, springs and linkage and everything was good. Afterwards the bearing cap popped off the hub and the outer bearing failed. The wheel came off bending the sheet metal and stairs. Axle dragged on the ground and damaged the end and tore off the brakes. Spent 3 days on the side of the road. Luckily had a spare axle and brake system with me. Needed a new hub. Could not find the original wheel alongside the road and we looked and looked.
So if you ever have a bearing cap come off and even though the bearing looks full of grease beware that it will now prematurely fail!!!!

Show More Reviews

See what our Experts say about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Manufacturer of Bearing Kit BK3-200
    The manufacturer of the bearings in the Bearing Kit part # BK3-200 is TruRyde.
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  • Thickness of Grease Seal and Outside Diameter of Bearing Races Included in # BKS-200
    The # RG06-070 grease seal included with the # BKS-200 bearing kit is .375 or 3/8 of an inch thick. The corresponding race to the 14125A bearing is a 14276 which has an outside diameter of 2.717 inches. The 25520 race is used with the 25580 bearing, and it has a 3.265 outside diameter.
    view full answer...
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  • Where Is BK3-200 Bearing Kit Manufactured?
    The # BK3-200 bearing kit is manufactured by TruRyde in China. This kit includes the inner bearing and race, outer bearing and race along with the grease seal and a cotter pin.
    view full answer...
  • Which Bearing Kit Fits Dexter 7,000 lb Axle
    Yes, the bearing kit part # BK3-210 does fit a good portion of the 7,000 lb Dexter axles out there, but some of the 7k Dexter axles require a slightly larger grease seal which instead requires the kit part # BK3-200. What you'll want to do is measure the spindle you have where the grease seal rides for it's outer diameter. If it's 2.125 inch you need the part # BK3-210. If instead it's 2.25 inch you'd need the part # BK3-200.
    view full answer...
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  • Correct Bearing Kit for Rockwell American 7K Axle
    I don't know about Rockwell American specifically but most 7,000 lb axles will use a 25580 inner and 14125A outer bearing with a GS-2125DL or10-36 grease seal. If this is what you have then we do have a compatible bearing kit, the Bearing Kit for 7K Axles part # BK3-210 (2.125" Seal) or part # BK3-200 (2.250" Seal). If you don't know what bearings or seal you have then you can use the help article below for assistance.
    view full answer...
  • Bearing Kit Recommendation for 2006 Kaufman GC36 36 Foot Car Hauler
    We have two bearing kits that have the same bearing numbers you need. There is part # BK3-200 that uses the seal part 10-36 which has an inner diameter of 2.25 inches and then we have the part # BK3-210 that uses a seal with an inner diameter of 2.125 inches. You'd have to look at what you have to know what would be needed.
    view full answer...
  • Bearing Kit Recommendation for Dexter 7k Axle
    For 7k Dexter axle bearings you have two options depending on the inner diameter of the seal you need. You would need part # BK3-200 for if your seal has an inner diameter of 2.25 inches. Or part # BK3-210 for if your seal inner diameter is 2.125 inches.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearing Kit Recommendation for 2012 Redwood Fifth Wheel with 7k Axle
    We have the bearings and seal you mentioned but we do not carry the Timken brand at this time. We do have a kit that has all of the bearings you mentioned together. For that you would want the part # BK3-200. The kit you referenced # BK3-210 uses the wrong seal. It would be too small.
    view full answer...
  • Bearing Kit For Sundowner Gooseneck Trailer With 7,000 lb Axles
    Took some doing but I was able to track down the correct bearing kit for your Sundowner horse trailer with 7,000 lb axles, and what you will need is the following: - Bearing Kit, 14125A/ 25580 Bearings # BK3-200
    view full answer...
  • How to Pick Out Bearings for a Dexter P-21 SLR Axle
    We checked with Dexter and P-21 just indicates where the axle was made. With the serial number we could track down more info on your axle. However, in the mean time you could pretty easily get the bearing numbers off of your current bearings and then check out the link I attached to see what each bearing kit contains to see which would work. There are two different bearing kits that would MOST LIKELY work for you. If you need a seal with a 2-1/8 inch inner diameter you would need the...
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  • Bearing Kit with Inner Bearing 25580 and Seal with 2.25
    The seal that is included with bearing kit # BK3-300 has an inner diameter of 2.25 inches and outer diameter of 3.376 inches which matches the info you have found. This kit also includes inner bearing 25580 and outer bearing LM67048 so if your outer bearing is the same this is the right kit for you. If your outer bearing is 14125A then you would need kit # BK3-200.
    view full answer...
  • Bearing Kit For Curt/Lippert 7,000 lb Trailer Axle
    Appreciate that info, and we do have the exact bearing kit you need for your Curt/Lippert 7,000 lb trailer axle. The correct kit is the following part number: - Bearing Kit # BK3-200
    view full answer...
  • How to Choose Correct Replacement Bearing Kit for a 7K Dexter Axle
    There are 2 possible bearing kit options for your 7K Dexter Axles and it all depends on what grease seal inner diameter you need: - Bearing Kit # BK3-210 (2.125" ID) - Bearing Kit # BK3-200 (2.250" ID) Aside from that both kits have the same bearings so it really does boil down to the size of the grease seal. Just pull a hub and either measure the inner diameter of the grease seal or the diameter of the spindle where the seal rides and that will tell you which kit you need.
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  • Bearing Kit Recommendation for a Dexter SLR Axle
    There are two different bearing kits that could work for you. If you need a seal with a 2-1/8 inch inner diameter you would need the part # BK3-210. If you need a 2-1/4 inch seal you would need the part # BK3-200. You will need to remove the hub and measure the diameter of the spindle where the seal rides to see which kit you would need.
    view full answer...
  • Picking Out Replacement Bearing Kit for Lippert 7k Axle
    Since you have a Lippert 7k axle the correct bearing kit is either part # BK3-200 or the part # BK3-210. The difference would be the size of the inner diameter of the grease seal. The part # BK3-200 comes with seal that has inner diameter of 2.25 inches and the part # BK3-210 comes with seal that is 2.125 inches. There's no way for us to tell which seal diameter your spindle has without you checking unfortunately.
    view full answer...
  • Dexter 7000 lb Axle Bearing Kit Recommendation
    For 7k Dexter axle bearings you have two options depending on the inner diameter of the seal you need. You would need part # BK3-200 for if your seal has an inner diameter of 2.25 inches. Or part # BK3-210 for if your seal inner diameter is 2.125 inches. I wish these were USA made bearing kits, but at this time none are available to us.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearing Kit for 7K Trailer Axles with a 25520 Race
    You need one of 2 kits: - Bearing Kit # BK3-210 - Bearing Kit # BK3-200 The difference between the kits is the inner diameter of the grease seal so that's what you need to check on. The 210 kit has a 2.125" ID for the seal while the 200 kit has a 2.250" ID for the seal.
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  • How to Determine Proper Grease Seal and Bearings for Fifth Wheel Trailer Hub
    For your 2016 Arctic Fox 27-5L fifth wheel trailer with a GVWR of 13,400 lbs I assume you have 7,000 lb axles and also that by axle seals you are talking about bearings and a grease seal. With 7,000 lb axles it is likely you will need Bearing Kit # BK3-200 or # BK3-210 but there is only one way to know this for sure. What you'll need to do is take apart your hub assembly and looking at the bearings themselves; wipe away the grease and you should be able to see the part number stamped...
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  • Replacement Bearings, Races, and Seals for a Dexter Number 297697 7K Axle
    The part number 297697 is for a Dexter 7K axle. There is a full bearing kit for this. It's part # BK3-200. It includes the bearings, races, and seals. Of course, this is not a definite replacement as I could not find exact numbers for your axles. It's very likely that this is the right one, but you should still check the numbers of your current bearings, races, and seals to ensure they match this one's: Inner bearing: 25580 Inner race: 25520 Outer bearing: 14125A Outer race: 14276 Seal:...
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  • Bearing Kit for Horse Trailer with Bearing ID of 1.25 1.75 and Seal 2.25 inch
    Thanks for all of the dimensions you listed! Based on that the correct bearing kit you'd need is the # BK3-200.
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  • Correct Inner Bearings for Lippert 5K Axles On a 2008 Artic Fox Travel Trailer
    For the inner bearing, you're going to need the Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing # 25580, but for the outer bearing you are going to need to remove the hub and check to see what is stamped on the face of the outer bearing as it could be a couple of different options. Once you have this information, feel free to get back to me and I'd be happy to find you the correct outer bearings as well.
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  • Bearing Kit that Fits Dexter 7k Trailer Axle 8327834
    We have a bearing kit for the Dexter 7k trailer axle # 8327834 with the part # BK3-200 which comes with bearings 14125A and 25580 and seal 10-36.
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  • Replacement Bearing With 1.75 Inch Inner Diameter
    We do have a bearing with a 1.75 inch inner diameter, the Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing # 25580. That said, there are numerous bearings with a 1.25 inch inner diameter, and I wouldn't be able to tell you exactly which one you need, so I've linked them below for you. Same for the grease seal I'd need the inner and outer diameters but I've also linked the selection of those for you below. You'll want to measure your spindle where the seal rides to get the inner diameter at least.
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  • Bearing Kit for Dexter 7k Axle with 2.25 inch Diameter for Seal
    Since your spindle seal dimension is 2.25 inch the correct Dexter 7k bearing kit is the part # BK3-200.
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