1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
  2. etrailer
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  5. 3500 lbs Axle
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Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44649

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44649

Item # L44649
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps L44649 - Bearing L44649 - etrailer
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High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44649 part number L44649 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-1624 for expert service.
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - L44649

  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • 3500 lbs Axle
  • 1.063 Inch I.D.
  • Bearing L44649
  • etrailer
  • Race L44610

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Features:

  • Inner diameter: 1.063"
  • Matching race (sold separately): L44610
  • Application:
    • Inner/outer bearing for BTR spindle
    • Outer bearing for #84 spindle


L44649 Replacement Bearing





Video of Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44649

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44649 - L44649

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (251 Customer Reviews)

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.

- L44649
by:

I needed these bearings for my boat trailer. Easy purchase, super fast delivery, and the right product. Installed them the same day and took the trailer along on vacation to the Florida Keys. Launched the boat in salt water several times, then towed it home again. Back home I just did a good lube with marine grease through the nipple on the bearing saver. Since then I have towed and launched many times in salt water and the bearings are still as good as the day I installed them. Good quality product that lasts well if you take care of it.


Comments
Still going strong! Im truly happy with the quality and durability.
Gary v - 10/30/2020


- L44649
by:

I put these bearings on a 21 ft travel trailer. The original bearings were poorly greased and got too hot. With these bearings and a good quality grease these bearings never overheated even with driving in hilly terrain with frequent breaking. Definitely recommend!



- L44649
by:

I replaced my old rotors and calipers with a better designed set and couldn't be happier. George helped me select the correct gear that fit my trailer spindles and everything went together easily without any snags.



- L44649
by:

I am preparing for another long trip in our travel trailer. I recently replaced the brakes, and now all bearings and races. All the parts were perfect replacement. My old bearings had a some wear on them.



- L44649
by:

Bearings were as described. Have not used the trailer much but it has towed well over limited uses.



- L44649
by:

Alway keep a spare set of bearings with you especially if you do long distance trailering. These are my choice



- L44649
by:

New wheel bearings for the new Titan disc brakes. Always use new bearings for new hub applications.



- L44649
by:

Exact item as ordered and very good, fast shipping from Etrailer.com. They are a great company to do business with. I ordered this bearing which is identical to the one on my tapered spindle as a spare in case of a problem on the road.



- L44649
by:

Purchased bearings, races, and seals for tandem axle boat trailer and a utility trailer. All were exact fit and have been working great over the past year.



- L44649
by:

As always, fast shipping, great product and exceptional customer service! THE place for all your trailer needs. The best FAQs on the planet. Well done etrailer!



- L44649
by:

Great parts and service. Bearings and races have performed well to date!



- L44649
by:

I was able to find the bearings I needed for my boat and they always carry quality bearings. . Shipping was not fast at all but that’s due to the usps and there backlog from Covid. These guys have my business from here in out.



- L44649
by:

Paula worked hard to find me the right bearings and seals. I will definitly use etrailer again for my trailer needs.



- L44649
by:

As I have come to expect from Etrailer, this was a perfect fit for my single axle boat trailer. I replaced all 4, the races, seals and added stainless steel bearing buddies. No more worry about failures even when launching in salt water.



- L44649
by:

No Issues with these, they installed easily and worked as expected.



- L44649
by:

I had a hub and bearing go out on a boat trailer going down the road. Tried matching separate parts locally, but were not available. Was able to order all the parts from etrailer at one time. They had on hand and shipped right away. Parts were exactly what I was looking for. Perfect fit. Now if I would have known that the other side would have failed in the next 12 months I would have done them all at the same time.



- L44649
by:

Want to help out the next customer looking for the bearing, cups, and seals for 2000-01 tracker trailstar trailer. 1st you have to dismantle one of the hubs and see what trailstar decided to put in there the day they built it. You will find the rear cups and seals are considered "Special for some reason". Not a problem for etrailer, they have them in stock and the quality is excellent and are exact replacements. The parts I had to order were cup L68110, cup L44610, seal 168233, bearing L68149 and bearing L44649. Oh yeah, customer service should get a 10 star review. I had an issue with shipping co. because of new driver in my area. Etrailer got all up in their business for me and I didn't have to do anything. Customer service also called me the next day to see if everything was delivered and satisfactory. We need more companys like etrailer.com . Excellent!!



- L44649
by:

Thank you for your assistance with my purchase of new hubs for my boat trailer. They are exactly as described and they fit perfectly on my trailer. I am attaching a few photo's of the hubs installed. I would recommend your company to everyone who needs hubs........EXCELLENT SERVICE.



- L44649
by:

great parts



- L44649
by:

Want to help out the next customer looking for the bearing, cups, and seals for 2000-01 tracker trailstar trailer. 1st you have to dismantle one of the hubs and see what trailstar decided to put in there the day they built it. You will find the rear cups and seals are considered "Special for some reason". Not a problem for etrailer, they have them in stock and the quality is excellent and are exact replacements. The parts I had to order were cup L68110, cup L44610, seal 168233, bearing L68149 and bearing L44649. Oh yeah, customer service should get a 10 star review. I had an issue with shipping co. because of new driver in my area. Etrailer got all up in their business for me and I didn't have to do anything. Customer service also called me the next day to see if everything was delivered and satisfactory. We need more companys like etrailer.com . Excellent!!



- L44649
by:

I am reviewing the components and etrailer as they are not installed yet. Online ordering was easy - I was contacted immediately with shipping time and tracking numbers - it all went really well. The components showed up on time and in good condition. The boxes were a little hammered but UPS does that. Thanks etrailer good service - good prices: what else do you want?



- L44649
by:

Good bearings, perfect fit, well pleased



- L44649
by:

etrailer is the best



- L44649
by:

Fit great. Customer service was excellent. The lady I spoke with on phone really knew about trailer s an bearings. She is the reason I ordered an the reason I will order in future. She took her time listened to my trailer problem gave advice An helped me. My trailer is older an bearings weren't what should be on it. But she was right an parts fit great an l have put 2000 miles some new bearings.



- L44649
by:

I could not be happier, What a diiference to have not just good brakes, but great brakes. Plus, the install was so easy, all the hardware was a perfect fit, instructions were right on the money (btw, I'm a retired engineer from a nuclear plant and I wrote procedures, so I'm picky) Anyway, towed the boat 1,000 miles and what a reassuring feeling to know that the equipment is in good working order and does the job when called upon. I'm attaching a couple of pictures so you can see what I did. Thanks again, I will be using etrailer in the future anytime I need something, feel free to pass on my comments


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  • Replacement Hub For 2007 Marine Master Trailer With UFP 2,000 Lb Axle
    Your axle is a UFP axle which is made by Dexter Axle. I contacted them with your serial number and they were able to tell me your axle is a 2,000 lb axle with a 76" hub face to hub face and 62" spring center to spring center. The bearings are inner and outer part # L44649. Dexter said your original hub is a 2,500 lb idler hub. You can replace your idler hub assembly with Trailer Idler Hub Assembly for 2,500-lb Axles - 5 on 4-1/2 part # TA88545-2 that uses the inner/outer bearings part...
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  • Determining Replacement Bearing for Trailer with Destroyed Bearing
    Can you get me the diameter of the spindle where that bearing rides? With that I can see which replacement bearing you'd need. For example the part # L44649 that you referenced would fit a spindle diameter of 1.063 inch.
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  • Parts Needed To Add Electric Trailer Brakes On 1996 Coleman Popup W/ Spindle Measuring 1.05
    Since the I.D. of the bearings on your 1996 Coleman Popup Camper are measuring 1.05" you more than likely have spindles that use # L44649 which measure 1.063" as this is the only bearing close to this measurement. I would first double check the I.D. of the bearing or the O.D. of the spindle to make sure the measurement is closer to 1.063". If that is the case you will need hub and drum assembly # 8-257-5UC3 and electric trailer brake assemblies # AKEBRK-2 with mounting hardware #...
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  • Replacement Hub Assemblies for Demco Kar Kaddy Tow Dolly
    In order to select appropriate replacement hub assemblies you'll just need to match the part numbers or the characteristics of your hubs. You will need to match up your bearing and seal numbers from the original parts if possible, as well as the axle's weight rating (which should be indicted on the axle itself) and the wheel bolt pattern. The linked article shows you how to determine your bolt pattern. The Demco website shows several models of their Kar Kaddy tow dolly but does not include...
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  • Bearing and Brake Assembly Kit Recommendation for Dexter Hub 8-250
    From previous customers we have determined that the Dexter 8-250 hub bearings are # L68149 and # L44649 which means for a bearing kit you would need # BK2-100. That means for brake assemblies you would need the part # AKEBRK-35R-SA for the right hand side and part # AKEBRK-35L-SA for the left hand side.
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  • Locating Replacement Hubs for Hadco 394 Assemblies on 2000 Utility Trailer
    There is a way to determine the right replacement hubs for your older trailer, but I wasn't able to cross-reference your Hadco assemblies to another model using the 394 stamped onto the hub. Your best option is going to be to pull one of the hubs and remove the inner and outer bearings. There should hopefully be a number printed right inside the bearings themselves but if not, you can also take a few measurements along the spindle with a digital caliper like # 301-17068 (see attached...
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  • 2003 Coleman Fleetwood Utah Replacement Brake Assemblies and Bearings
    From previous customers with your 2003 Coleman Fleetwood we've been able to determine that your trailer has 2,200 lb Dexter axles. The bearings you would need are # L44649 for the inner and outer and then for a seal # 10-9. For brake assemblies you would need part # 23-47 for the left and part # 23-48 for the right. These are manual adjust assemblies but there isn't a self adjusting set that fits your size. I know you didn't mention it, but if you needed to hub drums you would need...
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  • Replacement Hubs for Boat Trailer with L44549 Inner and Outer Bearings
    I'm guessing you actually have bearings # L44649 and you either mistyped or the bearing number is difficult to read. Having # L44649 as both the inner and outer is a very popular combination on 2,000 pound axles. If you need to verify to be sure this is what you have measure the inner diameter of the bearings with a digital caliper, like part # PTW80157. It should meaure 1.063 inches. I've also done some research and found that bearing L44549 has the same dimensions as # L44649 so it...
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  • What Spindle Fits Hubs that Have Inner and Outer Bearings of L44649
    If your current hub has bearing numbers of L44649 for the inner and the outer that means you have a BTR spindle. The replacement would be the # TRU44FR.
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  • Info Needed to Pick Out Trailer Hub Replacement
    The bearing number L45449 does not match anything that I can find so I'll need you to get me the dimensions of your trailer spindle where the bearings ride as well as the bolt pattern of your wheels and we'll be able to set you up with the correct hub. See the attached picture for where to measure.
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  • Parts Needed to Add Disc Brakes to Drum Brake Trailer
    If you have Atwood surge coupler # 83010 and you want to convert the trailer from drum brakes to disc brakes on one axle you will need to either replace the coupler or replace the master cylinder inside it with one that delivers the higher psi pressure required by disc brakes. Disc brakes need psi pressure in the 1500-1600-psi range so a new 8K-rated actuator/coupler like # T4747220 is needed. If the trailer has two 3500-lb axles (which would be expected if it has the 8K-rated Atwood...
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  • Replacement Hubs, Tires, and Wheels for Calkins Boat Trailer with 3,500 Pound Axle
    It looks like your Calkins boat trailer is equipped with a 3,500 pound axle. If this is the case, it is extremely likely that your hubs use the # L68149 inner bearing and # L44649 outer bearing. Although this is most likely the case, the only way to verify this will be to simply pull one of your existing hubs and check for the numbers that should be printed inside the bearings themselves. You will also want to note the bolt pattern on your current hubs. I have attached a great article that...
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  • Recommended 2.08 Diameter Grease Caps For Trailer
    We carry grease caps that fit a 2.08 diameter hub bore. Unfortunately, we do not carry dust caps with that diameter. The grease caps I recommend are Bearing Buddy, part # BB2080SS for non threaded hubs, and part # BB2080T-SS for hub bores that are 2.08 inch and that have 12 threads per inch. These seat into your hub and provide an easy way to protect your bearings from dirt and water,and makes adding grease to the bearings very quick and simple, with the included grease fitting. I pulled...
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