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  1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
  2. etrailer
  3. Bearings
  4. Standard Bearings
  5. 3500 lbs Axle
  6. 1.063 Inch I.D.
Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44649

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44649

Item # L44649
Our Price: $18.66
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Shipping Weight: 0.17 lbs
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High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Great Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44649 part number L44649 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 1-800-940-8924 for expert service.
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  • Reviews (372)
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  • Videos (2)
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - L44649

  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • 3500 lbs Axle
  • 1.063 Inch I.D.
  • Bearing L44649
  • etrailer
  • Race L44610

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Features:

  • Inner diameter: 1.063"
  • Matching race (sold separately): L44610
  • Application:
    • Inner/outer bearing for BTR spindle
    • Outer bearing for #84 spindle


L44649 Replacement Bearing





Video of Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44649

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.

Customer Satisfaction Score:


Customer Reviews

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44649 - L44649

Average Customer Rating:  4.7 out of 5 stars   (372 Customer Reviews)

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.

by:

The description of this item is confusing; it states both wire rope & polyester strap leading me to think that it may include the rope/strap. This is also furthered by images showing the winch with the nylon strap. Before placing my order I contacted customer service and asked them twice, I was told by one person that the strap was included. I was also told that if it was missing for whatever reason they'd send me the strap. Another person, via phone, told me that it was not included.

At this point it was either place the order and possibly be missing the strap, or place the order and have an extra strap for no reason which I would have to ship back on my dime to return.

I placed my order just for the winch, banking that the first customer service person was correct and the strap was included. When I received the order and no strap was included I contacted customer service and was told that I was misinformed by one of their customer service reps and that they could send me a prepaid shipping label to return it. I then asked if instead I could get some sort of discount or free shipping on placing the order for the strap I needed for the winch, since I was given the wrong info. I was told no both via chat and phone. Customer support would rather pay to ship the item back to them, rather than giving me free shipping on my new order for the strap and also gain an additional sale. Makes no sense to me.

Overall this item gets one star because of the poor description/images. Hopefully etrailer updates this listing, or at least this review helps someone get all the right parts they need without having to reorder/wait longer.



by:

This was perfect for mounting my small snowmobile trailer tire with a slight modification. I wanted a side mounted spare holder and there are not any that I could find for my trailer tire. I used this mount but modified it slightly using one of the hubs I replaced on my trailer to mount to this. See photos.



by:

They was the wrong ones I will not ever buy anything from this company again and will tell all o know not to buy from them I ordered a full disc brake kit pad was missing you did send me that but 2 months
later brake line kit the the piece that connect the lines together was missing still have not replaced brakes yet because I have to buy more parts that should have came with the kits I bought from you and then you send me the wrong bearings Wow



by:

good product. good fit. good bearings.
would
buy again.



by:

I really appreciate the help and the knowledge that your people have about the products that I was wanting to purchase. Taking the time and explaining what was involved really help my understanding on how and what to order the next time around. I always feel confident that I'm receiving the correct items needed. Thank you for your patience.



by:

The only reason I do not give you 5 stars is because your web site. When internet ordering, it should instantly state when a part is out of stock. Even nicer would be expected restocking dates. The parts received were exactly what I ordered for my electric brake conversion from surge brakes at far less expense than reparing the internally rusted surge brake system. There was a plethora of information on your web site to assist me in ordering the correct parts for the conversion. Plus there were videos to see how to complete the conversion and how parts were installed and adjusted. Customer service was excellent.



by:

Ordered bearings and races for both hubs on my bass boat. Quality seemed better than local auto parts bearings. Also purchased other items on this order and was very pleased with products and customer service I received from etrailer. Informative, fast shipping, and courteous company to work with. Top notch!!



by:

I needed these bearings for my boat trailer. Easy purchase, super fast delivery, and the right product. Installed them the same day and took the trailer along on vacation to the Florida Keys. Launched the boat in salt water several times, then towed it home again. Back home I just did a good lube with marine grease through the nipple on the bearing saver. Since then I have towed and launched many times in salt water and the bearings are still as good as the day I installed them. Good quality product that lasts well if you take care of it.

Gary V.

10/30/2020

Still going strong! Im truly happy with the quality and durability.



by:

Purchased bearing races, tapered roller bearings, seals and dust cap to have for spares for our 2012 Catalina Santara 281BHS travel trailer. Quality products .



by:

Again, I haven’t put enough wear on these bearings to give 5 stars. So far, so good.



by:

Thank you for your assistance with my purchase of new hubs for my boat trailer. They are exactly as described and they fit perfectly on my trailer. I am attaching a few photo's of the hubs installed. I would recommend your company to everyone who needs hubs........EXCELLENT SERVICE.



by:

I am happy with delivery

David

2/12/2023

The bearings and seals were a perfect fit, all of the parts were a good quality. I have not roaded the trailer much this year but all has worked well for what and when we were on the road



by:

Want to help out the next customer looking for the bearing, cups, and seals for 2000-01 tracker trailstar trailer. 1st you have to dismantle one of the hubs and see what trailstar decided to put in there the day they built it. You will find the rear cups and seals are considered "Special for some reason". Not a problem for etrailer, they have them in stock and the quality is excellent and are exact replacements. The parts I had to order were cup L68110, cup L44610, seal 168233, bearing L68149 and bearing L44649. Oh yeah, customer service should get a 10 star review. I had an issue with shipping co. because of new driver in my area. Etrailer got all up in their business for me and I didn't have to do anything. Customer service also called me the next day to see if everything was delivered and satisfactory. We need more companys like etrailer.com . Excellent!!



by:

Want to help out the next customer looking for the bearing, cups, and seals for 2000-01 tracker trailstar trailer. 1st you have to dismantle one of the hubs and see what trailstar decided to put in there the day they built it. You will find the rear cups and seals are considered "Special for some reason". Not a problem for etrailer, they have them in stock and the quality is excellent and are exact replacements. The parts I had to order were cup L68110, cup L44610, seal 168233, bearing L68149 and bearing L44649. Oh yeah, customer service should get a 10 star review. I had an issue with shipping co. because of new driver in my area. Etrailer got all up in their business for me and I didn't have to do anything. Customer service also called me the next day to see if everything was delivered and satisfactory. We need more companys like etrailer.com . Excellent!!



by:

I put these bearings on a 21 ft travel trailer. The original bearings were poorly greased and got too hot. With these bearings and a good quality grease these bearings never overheated even with driving in hilly terrain with frequent breaking. Definitely recommend!



by:

So,
I needed new bearings and seals
for a 1980 travel trailer wherein the axle, hubs and bearings had no markings. Diana (CSR) helped me work through through the options and was able to identify the correct parts. The bearings and seals came in and were a perfect fit. Everything was on time and intact. Very happy with my first etrailer buy.



by:

called order in very helpfull



by:

I am reviewing the components and etrailer as they are not installed yet. Online ordering was easy - I was contacted immediately with shipping time and tracking numbers - it all went really well. The components showed up on time and in good condition. The boxes were a little hammered but UPS does that. Thanks etrailer good service - good prices: what else do you want?



by:

Fit great. Customer service was excellent. The lady I spoke with on phone really knew about trailer s an bearings. She is the reason I ordered an the reason I will order in future. She took her time listened to my trailer problem gave advice An helped me. My trailer is older an bearings weren't what should be on it. But she was right an parts fit great an l have put 2000 miles some new bearings.



by:

I bought this kit last year to replaced the existing brakes and bearings on our 2010 Jayco 23B. We went on eight different camping trips this year and they work great! We noticed a huge improvement when applying the brakes to slow down or stopping the camper altogether. I highly recommend this kit because they were easy to install and the noticed stopping power.Please feel free to ask me any questions regarding this kit.



by:

I had a hub and bearing go out on a boat trailer going down the road. Tried matching separate parts locally, but were not available. Was able to order all the parts from etrailer at one time. They had on hand and shipped right away. Parts were exactly what I was looking for. Perfect fit. Now if I would have known that the other side would have failed in the next 12 months I would have done them all at the same time.



by:

Customer support for finding replacement bearing, races and grease seals for a 1973 Apache popup trailer were spot on. All items fit perfectly, delivery was quick and customer support excellent. Thanks to all!

Bearing LM11949
Race LM11910
Bearing L44649
Race L44610
Grease Seal - 10-9



by:

I replaced all the bearings races seals and brakes on a small travel trailer. Bill P.at etrailer took my order and three days later I had everything in my hands. Great job Bill ! All the parts were exact replacements and the install went very smooth. There is video help on their website to show how to make the install easier. I have been dealing with etrailer for several years and have never had a bad experience. I was completely blown away by the pre assembled brakes . Backing plate, shoes, actuators, self adjusters and wiring all ready to bolt on. How much easier can it be? With the best prices, fast shipping and great help on line etrailer is the way to go.



by:

Because my trailer was used i had no idea how repairs were made or if they were made. I am so pleased etrailer.com has reviews most good, some bad and videos with detailed descriptions. I carefully picked through all of it and decided, wisely, to order what was recommended and some extras to be sure. It paid off. I have ordered several things from etrailer.com over the year and never disappointed when i used the sites vast resources. It is so well put together and the "Gold Standard" is the customer support and follow through. I only need to go here for my boat trailer needs. Thanks



by:

Good bearings, perfect fit, well pleased

Jon M.

4/15/2022

Product is just super. Still performing as if I just purchased them.


25
372
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  • How to Pick Out Replacement Hub for 2002 Triton Snowmobile Trailer
    In order to pick out the correct hub assembly for a trailer you are going to need know a few key pieces of information. The first thing you will need to know is the bolt pattern of your hubs. This is so you get a hub that is compatible with your wheels. I attached an FAQ article on determining bolt pattern for you to check out. Next thing you will need to know is what spindle you have on your trailer. In order to do that you can either get the inner and outer bearing numbers from a hub...
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  • How to Determine What Bearings are Needed for Friends Fishing Boat
    I recommend taking a few measurements on the spindle of your friend's boat trailer to make sure that you have the correct bearings installed. We'll first need to know the inner diameters of the inner and outer bearing and the grease seal. These measurements will need to be very precise, down to a thousandth of an inch so I recommend using a digital caliper. I have included a photo that shows where to measure on the spindle. You can then choose the correct bearings, based on the inner diameters,...
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  • Difference Between a Single and Double Lip Seal
    It sounds like the remains of a double lip seal. Was it like a rubber o-ring with a metal spring around it? You are going to have to replace the seal so I would just disregard the sleeve. It would go on the outside of the rubber lip though. I attached a picture that shows the differences between a single and double lip seal for you to check out. The difference between the single lip and double lip seals is that the double lip grease seal will have two rubber lips that are in contact with...
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  • Is the Trailer Bearing L44649 Durable
    The bearings we offer like the part # L44649 are high quality bearings. As long as you stay under the speed rating for the tires you have on your hub these would work well and would not fail. You will need to make sure that you do keep grease in the hub. As long as they are properly greased and your trailer isn't overloaded these bearings would last a long time. I have included a video below on inspecting bearings and another video on how to pack bearings with grease.
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  • Options for New Bearings for Trailer Hub with 30205 Bearings
    The bearing that you have on the trailer hub measures just under 1 inch (0.985) and we are not going to have a hub that accepts a bearing with an inner diameter of that size. This is common for the trailer kits like the Haul Master branded trailers. You have 2 options though. First, to obtain the right size replacement parts you would have to go to through the manufacturer since the hubs are not a common size. Second, and the best option, replace the axle so that you will not run into...
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  • Can Using 1 Larger Tire on a Tandem Axle Trailer Cause Bearings to Wear Out
    First let me just say that you do want all of your tires to be the same size, construction, and load range. In a pinch if you have to use a different size you can but it should be temporary until you can get the right size on it. If one of the tires is larger or smaller than it is supposed to be it can put additional stress on the running gear which would include the bearings. A larger tire will have fewer revolutions than the other tires and that plus the larger size can cause the trailer...
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  • How to Pick Out Bearings for Axles of 1989 Sun Tracker Trailer
    I really wish there was a way to determine what bearings a trailer needed without actually pulling the wheel off and checking, but there isn't. The only two solution I have for you would be to remove the hubs and get the numbers that are stamped on the bearing or for you to remove the hubs and use a digital or dial caliper to measure where the bearings and seal ride (see pic). With that info I can help you figure out what you need. I attached a link down below that shows all of the bearings...
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  • How Tight to Torque Spindle Nut on Trailer Axle with Sealed Bearings
    When you install the sealed bearings on a spindle there is no specific torque rating for the castle nut that holds your hub in place. We recommend tightening the castle nut down until it stops, and then backing it off slightly. Since your spindle nut is self locking it won't back itself off. Over tightening the nut can lead to the spindles and bearings overheating, which can damage them. We have a video that outlines the proper way to remove and install a trailer hub, to view the video,...
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  • How to Find Bearing Replacements for a Trailer Hub
    In order to pick out the correct bearing and seals for you trailer you are going to have to remove your current hubs and get either the numbers that are stamped on them or use a dial or digital caliper to measure the area where your bearings and spindles ride. I wish we had access to the hub info for you vehicle but there isn't a database that has all of the info so you have to manually find it.
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  • Info Needed to Pick Out Hub for 1981 Alumalite Travel Trailer
    In order to pick out the correct hub assembly for a trailer you are going to need know a few key pieces of information. The first thing you will need to know is the bolt pattern of your hubs. This is so you get a hub that is compatible with your wheels. I attached an FAQ article on determining bolt pattern for you to check out. Next thing you will need to know is what spindle you have on your trailer. In order to do that you can either get the inner and outer bearing numbers from a hub...
    view full answer...
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  • Recommended Replacement Hubs For Older Boat Trailer
    We do carry a hub that uses the size bearings you mentioned but it has a 4 on 5 bolt pattern and is typically used for agricultural trailers or wagons. Agricultural hubs and spindles are designed for low-speed applications. The bearings, grease seal and grease cap are included with this hub. We do not carry any wheels with the 4 on 5 bolt pattern, and they may be difficult to locate. With the dimensions you stated you have on your trailer it is not a common bearing combination and may...
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  • Are Bearings L44549 and L44649 Interchangeable
    From the information that I was able to find on the L44549 bearing, it shows it being a 1-1/16 inch bearing which is the same as Trailer Hub Bearing, # L44649. Just to be sure, I recommend measuring the L44549 bearing with a digital caliper to confirm that it's inner diameter does measure 1.063 inches.
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  • Inner Diameter of L44649 Trailer Bearings
    The # L44649 bearing has an inner diameter of 1.063 inches which is very close to 1-1/16 inches. If the spindle on your trailer measures 1.063 inches in the location where the bearings sit (Shown in the attached picture) then it will work for you.
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  • Trailer Wheel Bearings Burning Out Repeatedly After Little Mileage
    Thank you for providing the photo and the detailed history of the wheel bearing issues with your Fleetwood trailer. A potential cause for bearing failure is the castle nuts being over tightened. Castle nuts should be just slightly more than hand tight. If too tight this will put excessive pressure on the bearings and could lead to premature failure. I suggest an inspection of the tires on the affected wheels. If you notice uneven tread wear this could potentially indicate a source for...
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  • Picking Out Replacement Hub for Trailer to go From a 4 Lug Hub to a 5 Lug Hub
    If I knew what hub you have exactly I can determine what bearings it has and from there easily help you pick out a replacement, but typically people in your situation will need to first check the bearing numbers in the hub or measure the spindle to determine what would fit as a replacement and then go from there. I attached a picture with more info on the info needed. If you can get me that info I'll be able to help you pick out the correct replacement with the bolt pattern you are wanting. To...
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  • Measuring for Bearing Replacement on Harbor Freight Trailer
    In order to find the best replacement bearings and seals for your Harbor freight Trailer, you will need to remove the wheel and hub and pull the bearings, seals, and races off your spindle. I have attached a photo that shows where you can find the numbers on those items. We don't offer bearings in mm sizes but you might still be able to find what you need. If you are not able to find the numbers on these items, you will need to take some measurements of the spindle with a precision instrument...
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  • How to Pick Out Bearings for Komfort 5th Wheel Trailer
    To pick out bearings for a trailer hub you will need to remove one of the hubs so that you can remove the bearings and get the numbers off of them. Or, you can measure the spindle where the bearings ride so that we can pick you out the correct bearings that would fit the spindle.
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  • How to Pick Out Replacement Bearings for a Trailer
    We have a bearing # 501349 that would work as a replacement for the one bearing that you pulled from your hub. You will need to pull the other bearing out as well to get the number off of it or use a dial caliper to get exact measurements of the spindle. The measurements needed are the parts of the spindle where the bearings ride. To get the correct seal you will need to also measure where the seal rides on the spindle and then measure the inner diameter of where seal rides in your hub.
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Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?


Info for this part was:

Employee Mike L
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Mike L
Employee Robert G
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Robert G
Employee Michael H
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Michael H
Employee Jeff D
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Jeff D
Employee Jameson C
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Jameson C
Employee John H
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Employee Adam R
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Employee Jeffrey L
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Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
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Employee Wilson B
Updated by:
Wilson B

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