bing tracking image
  1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
  2. etrailer
  3. Races
  4. Standard Races
  5. 3500 lbs Axle
  6. 2.327 Inch O.D.
Replacement Race - L68110

Replacement Race - L68110

Item # L68110
Our Price: $3.15
You Save: 45%
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Shipping Weight: 0.12 lbs
Add to cart
In Stock
zoom in icon
slider vertical icon
zoom out icon
Comment field cannot be left empty.
Name field cannot be left empty.

Thank you! Your comment has been submitted successfully. You should be able to view your question/comment here within a few days.

Error submitting comment. Please try again momentarily.

Product Images

Customer Photos

Need help with installation?
Locate installers near me
Great Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Race - L68110 part number L68110 can be ordered online at or call 1-800-940-8924 for expert service.
  • All Info
  • Reviews (82)
  • Q & A (0)
  • Videos (2)
  • Photos

etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - L68110

  • Races
  • Standard Races
  • 3500 lbs Axle
  • 2.327 Inch O.D.
  • Bearing L68149
  • etrailer
  • Race L68110

  • Works with bearings L68149
  • Qty. 1 race
  • Outer diameter: 2.327

L68110 Replacement Race - L68110

Video of Replacement Race - L68110

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.

Customer Satisfaction Score:

Customer Reviews

Replacement Race - L68110 - L68110

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (82 Customer Reviews)


To all. If you have trailer of some type, it will some day need maintenance and / or repair. As my sailboat trailer has over the past many years. That said, and the folks who manage this company are the very best you will ever experience and they will help you with your trailer needs as they have done for me time and time again. Trailer in confidence and know that when you need help will be there to help you.


Excellent product description allowed me to find these bearings on etrailer’s website


Races and seals were delivered. I was surprised that the races came with surface rust. After a few minutes of lightly sanding them, the rust was removed. Not what I expected.


In stock and shipped quickly


Only got 3 stars, took a week using USPS but while I was waiting the price dropped, Staff gut Brent was a 5 star but etrailer 3 star

Etrailer Expert

Jenny N.


If the price on our site s within 30 days of an order when we will credit you back the difference. Just contact our customer service department and we will take care of it for you.


Want to help out the next customer looking for the bearing, cups, and seals for 2000-01 tracker trailstar trailer. 1st you have to dismantle one of the hubs and see what trailstar decided to put in there the day they built it. You will find the rear cups and seals are considered "Special for some reason". Not a problem for etrailer, they have them in stock and the quality is excellent and are exact replacements. The parts I had to order were cup L68110, cup L44610, seal 168233, bearing L68149 and bearing L44649. Oh yeah, customer service should get a 10 star review. I had an issue with shipping co. because of new driver in my area. Etrailer got all up in their business for me and I didn't have to do anything. Customer service also called me the next day to see if everything was delivered and satisfactory. We need more companys like . Excellent!!


Perfect match bearing races. These measure exactly at 2.327 as they should. Also great prices, always in stock AND super FAST SHIPPING.


I got the email notification that the package was delivered before I went to the mailbox.This digital age is amazing. And the delivery was a day ahead of promised.
I haven't installed them yet but I would like to complement
etrailer on the tech support. I have a 19 year old Tracker trailer. Every few years I replace bearings and always have a problem with finding correct parts, It seems the L68149 inner bearing uses 2 different races that are different in size. To make matters worse the existing inner race was not marked with the correct part number. L68111 instead of the correct L68110. I measured bearing sizes several times and was still not certain what was wrong. While chasing down what to order I found the answer in the etrailer FAQ page. Having the exact measurements for the parts really helped. I also found the perfect replacement for the damaged rubber part on the transom saver for the boat. Now when it warms up a few degrees I can get these installed and be ready to go fishing. Thanks, etrailer.


Im really happy with all the product and support. I hope they are paying you well.


I purchased a bunch of bearings, lights brake parts and electrical parts for a complete rebuild of a tandem axle flatbed a year or so ago. I installed the parts...then completely forgot about them. They are still working great. I hitch it up, use it and put it back...the trailer just plain works. I will purchase from etrailer again, no question about it. Tim


I'm overhauling a 20 year old boat trailer and have found just about everything I need at They did have a problem locating a master cylinder cap for me, but customer service informed me the manufacturer had discontinued the item. Overall, meets or exceeds my expectations. Trying to find all of these parts locally might be possible, but would require more time and gas than I'm willing to provide. Good company and good customer service!

I definitely can't find these all of these parts at the local


Everything was right on time, great sales people. All the bearings, seals, and races fit nicely.

Jerry S.




No problems at all after replacing the bearings and races on my boat trailer.

Richard B.


Still working fine, low maintenance.


shipped without any padding, 4 loose sets together.


It fit the hub easily and will probably work well. L68111 that came with the kit I purchased a few years back didn't fit, so I needed this one. I only had the bearing number when I ordered the kit. It still shows the same kit with the same race number as available solution. Live and learn.


There very good quality and have lasted for a very long time.


Everything I needed was easy to identify and order through the site, and the order arrived quickly. The information and how-to videos were very helpful, and assisted me in getting my project completed easily.

I wouldn't hesitate to use the site again, or to recommend to anyone needing parts for their trailer.


Have not yet installed the parts in my boat trailer. I was very pleased with Pat and Rose who handled my orders. I do no net know how my returns were resolved.


just what I needed to repair my trailer bearings, and it fit like a glove. Installation was simple and easy, and everything is working great.

Delivery was timely, and most important, correct!

Your product, attentiveness/responsiveness met my expectation.

Job well done!


Just what I needed and quick delivery too, Thanks!








caller in order person that helped me was great


Good product fit as it was needed


Trailer bearings fit perfectly and got me back on the road with my boat.


Excellent price for great wheel seals


Still working great after a year in my boat trailer!

Show More Reviews

See what our Experts say about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Is There a Replacement Wheel Bearing Kit That Includes # L68110 Race
    The L68110 race, which is very common to boat trailers, is available individually and is compatible with the L68149 bearing. Although the outer diameter of the two races is pretty close (2.362 for the L68111 versus 2.327 for the L68110), I would recommend staying with the same part number as the race you are replacing. We do not have a bearing kit that includes the L68110 inner race.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Trailer Hub Grease Seal for Part Number 473317
    Thank you for the info you listed. Based on the seal number you mentioned the correct replacement is the part # 168233.
    view full answer...
  • Double Lip Grease Seal To Match L68149 and L44649 Bearings
    It sounds like you have a 3,500 lb axle based on the L68149 inner bearing and L44649 outer bearing you said you had therefore, the Double Lip Grease Seal part # 58846 which measures 1.719" inner diameter and 2.565" outer diameter is what you need.
    view full answer...
  • Which Grease Seal is Associated with L68149 Bearing and L68110 Race on a Boat Trailer Hub
    When the L68149 bearing is paired with the L68111 race, the 10-19 grease seal is used. However when the same bearing is used with the L68110 race on a boat trailer, the # 168233 seal is usually used. You can verify this by using a digital caliper to measure the hub bore (inside diameter) where the seal would sit and the surface of the spindle where the inside diameter of the seal would ride. The hub bore should measure 2.332 inches and the surface of the spindle that the seal would spin...
    view full answer...
    Image 1 for
  • Seal # 168233 and Race # L68110 Availability
    Glad we were able to help! And that you got the correct Seal # L68110 and Seal # 168233.
    view full answer...
  • Correct Grease Seal for Boat Trailer
    It sounds like you need seal # 168233 which has an inner diameter of 1.688 inches and outer diameter of 2.332 inches. Very close to your measurements. Check your bearing and race numbers. If you have bearing # L68149 along with race # L68110 then this is generally the seal you need.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings And Seals For 1-3/8 Inch Trailer Axle Spindle
    We have a grease seal that matches the dimensions you have on your trailer. The seal we offer is part # 168233. This seal has a 1.688 inside diameter and 2.332 outside diameter. The race that is designed to work with the seal is part # L68110. We also have the # L68149 bearings you mentioned, but they do not come in a kit with the race and seal mentioned. You did not say if the # L68149 is the outer or inner bearing. Since you provided accurate measurements it sounds like you have a...
    view full answer...
  • What Bearing Works with Trailer Race L68111 and L68110
    The race part # L68110 works with the bearing part # L68149. This is the same as the race part # L68111.
    view full answer...
  • Is There a Trailer Hub/Bearing with 1.18 Inner Diameter
    I do have a possible solution for you in the Trailer Hub Assembly part # AH15450ECOMP which uses a LM67048 (1.250") inner bearing and LM11949 (.750') outer bearing. This hub has a 4 on 5" bolt pattern, it's commonly used in agricultural applications. It's the only hub we offer with this bearing combo. Unfortunately, we don't have any hubs/bearings which have a 1.18" inner diameter.
    view full answer...
  • Grease Seal With 0.50 Inch Width, 1.68 Inch Inner Diameter and 2.33 Inch Outer Diameter
    The grease seal you are looking for is the Grease Seal - Double Lip # 010-180-00. This seal has a 1.68 inch inner diameter, 2,33 outer diameter and a width of 0.50 inches, as you can see in the accompanying photo. I went out to the warehouse to check this measurement for you.
    view full answer...
    Image 1 for
  • Replacement Galvanized Hub and Drum Assemblies for Boat Trailer w/Bearings L68149 and L44649
    We have numerous hub and drum assemblies that use inner bearing L68149 and outer bearing L44649. I have included a link to them for you. There are several different bolt patterns for hubs that take those bearings. The most common is a 5 on 4-1/2 like # 8-247-50 but to be sure you can measure for bolt pattern using the help article I have linked. The race numbers might not be an exact match but that is because they match the bearings AND the hubs so as long as the bearing numbers are correct...
    view full answer...
  • Do L68110 and L68111 Races Work With L68149 Bearing
    The Race # L68111 and the Race # L68110 are both for the # L68149 bearing so if Dexter Axle is saying you need the slightly smaller one I'd go with that instead of the one that comes with the Bearing Kit # BK2-100.
    view full answer...
  • Difference in Bearing Race # L68111 and Bearing Race # L68110
    Race # L68111 has an outer diameter of 2.361 inches. Race # L68110 has an outer diameter of 2.327 inches. Based on these measurements, the two races are not interchangeable. They are designed for different size hubs, but can use the same # L68149 bearing. There may not be a pre-packaged kit with the L68110 race, but you can still get all the parts you need separately. I have included a link to our bearing and race main page for you to view.
    view full answer...
  • Recommended Replacement Bearing Kit with Race 6811
    The race part number 6811 you referenced is likely to be part # L68111, which fits with a # L68149 bearing, or race part # L68110. The difference between these two races is their outer diameter dimension. Part # L68110 has an outer diameter of 2.327-inches while part # L68111 has an outer diameter of 2.361-inches. You'll need to measure your hub bore with a precision caliper to determine which race will fit your hub. Bearing kit # BK2-100 includes inner race # L68111.
    view full answer...
  • Does A New Race Need To Go All The Way To The Inner Lip Of A Dexter 8-248 Hub
    If you pulled a # L68111 race out of your Dexter hub, I recommend staying with that size. The smaller # L68110 has the potential to rotate inside the hubs which can cause a good amount of heat that can therein damage the hub and spindle. With that said, there can be a couple things going on that are preventing you from getting the race seated all the way to the lip, which is where it needs to be. First, there is something blocking it. This can be something inside the hub that just needs...
    view full answer...
    Image 1 for Image 2 for
  • Replacement Bearing Race and Grease Seal For Trailer Hub
    We do offer the replacement trailer bearing # L68149 which has 1.378 inch I.D., replacement race # L68110 which has a 2.327 inch O.D., and Grease Seal # 1105-100-031 which is a single lip version of the grease seal you have currently with a 2.356 O.D. and a 1.750 I.D. At this time we do not carry the replacement LM12749 bearing, or replacement LM12710 race for your trailer.
    view full answer...
  • L68810 Bearing Recommendation for a L68149 Bearing
    I have a race that will work for you. You would want a Redline Race # L68110. The outer dimensions of this race are 2.327 inches, and this will work with a # L68149 bearing. Check out the video I attached that shows the outer dimension of the # L68110 and that it works with the # L68149 bearing.
    view full answer...
  • What is the Correct Race for Use with Bearing # L68149?
    The # L68110 Race in my application charts works with the # L68149 bearing. We do show that the # L68149 bearing also works with the # L68111 race and this may be the application you need. The # L68149 inner bearing is paired with the # L44649 outer bearing which takes a # L44610 race. You could also order the Bearing Kit for #84 Spindle, L44649/L68149 Bearings, 10-19 Double Lip Seal, # BK2-100, if the race mentioned above is the correct part for your application. This kit includes the...
    view full answer...
  • Bearing Kit Recommendation for 84 Spindle with Race L68110
    We don't sell a kit with that race so you'd need to piece the parts together that you'd need with the race # L68110. You'd need the outer bearing # L44649, outer race # L44610, inner bearing # L68149 and then the seal # L68110 with teh seal # RG06-050.
    view full answer...
  • How To Convert Oil Bath Hubs on 3700 Lb Axle Over to Grease
    Converting an oil bath hub to grease couldn't be simpler. Just drain the oil, clean and inspect the bearings and races and pack the bearings with a good quality grease like the LMX # L11390. The # 168255TB seal you mentioned is typically used by 3700 lb marine hubs which use a # L68149 and # L44649 bearing and a # L68110 and # L44610 race. We offer the replacement races, seals and bearings if you need them.
    view full answer...
  • Electric Over Hydraulic Disc Brake System for Dexter D35 Axles on 2002 Arctic Fox Model H
    Both race # L68111 and race # L68110 are used with bearing # L68149. The difference is the outer diameter and that outer diameter is dependent on the hub used, not the axle or, more specifically, the spindle. So in other words if the bearings, seals, and bolt pattern match what the spindle needs then kit # T4843800 will fit. This kit includes the hubs with the races installed already and uses a 5 on 4-1/2 bolt pattern to attach the wheels to the hubs.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Hub, Bearings, Races, and Seals for Trailer Hub with H-1377 Bearing
    First, it does sound like, based on the measurement and information you have provided, that race # L68110, is correct since its outer diameter is 2.327 inches. This race is associated with bearing # L68149 which has an inner diameter of 1.378 inches and fits a number 84 spindle. On these spindles the diameter where the seal goes is 1.73 inches such as # TRU84FR. The seal should be a tight fit. I once had a heck of a time pulling a hub off of a trailer that was held on by the seal only!...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement for UFP HD1377 Hub and Drum Assembly
    For a replacement hub and drum assembly you want to match the bearings. We have previously found that the Dexter # 84546UC3 matches the UFP HD1377. The difference between the # L68111 and # L68110 inner race doesn't matter as long as the bearings are the same. This uses a # L68149 (1.378" inner diameter) inner bearing and # L44649 (1.063" inner diameter) outer bearing. I recommend using a digital caliper like the # PTW80157 to measure your existing bearings or spindle to verify that this...
    view full answer...
    Image 1 for
  • Are the L68111 and L68110 Races the Same
    I can see why this is confusing. The outer diameter of the race, which is the only difference between the # L68111 and # L68110, is only important to the hub itself and they will both correspond to the # L68149 bearing that you mentioned. The race will only correspond to the hub and not to your spindles, so hubs with # L68111 races will work on your boat trailer just fine and would be interchangeable with hubs that have # L68110 races; you just wouldn't be able to use L68110 races in hubs...
    view full answer...

< Previous

Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?

Info for this part was:

Employee Mike L
Expert Research:
Mike L
Employee Michael H
Expert Research:
Michael H
Employee Jameson C
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Randy B
Installed by:
Randy B
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Wilson B
Updated by:
Wilson B
Employee Zach D
Video by:
Zach D

At we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.

Product Experts Available Now!
Call 1-800-940-8924