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Replacement Race for L68149 Bearing
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Replacement Race for L68149 Bearing

Part Number: L68111
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$10.90
Retail:$11.68
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Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with L68149 bearing. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Great Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Race for L68149 Bearing part number L68111 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 1-800-940-8924 for expert service.
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  • Reviews (144)
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  • Videos (2)
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - L68111

  • Races
  • Standard Races
  • 3500 lbs Axle
  • 2.361 Inch O.D.
  • Bearing L68149
  • etrailer
  • Race 68111

Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with L68149 bearing. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Features:

  • Outer diameter: 2.361"
  • Matching bearing (sold separately): L68149


L68111 Replacement Trailer Hub Race





Video of Replacement Race for L68149 Bearing

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Feature Review Replacement Race for 02475 Bearing

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.

Customer Satisfaction Score:


Customer Reviews

Replacement Race for L68149 Bearing - L68111

Average Customer Rating:  4.7 out of 5 stars   (144 Customer Reviews)

Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with L68149 bearing. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.

by:

This race was .0030 too big and when i pressed it in it cracked my wheel hub!



by:

Perfect fit, no problems, & fast delive ry



by:

Great product!



by:

This rating is for the packaging only, shipped very poorly with no protection. four sets of bearings thrown in a box,
Had to return. (photo enclosed).



by:

flawless transaction, customer service was a huge help in finding the correct parts.



by:

Bearings and seals in stock, delivered fast and exactly what I needed. Thank You for your great customer service..... ready to transport my boat 1000 miles to Florida....Jim

Jim D.

1/5/2015

everything is fine and working the way it should, Happy New Year



by:

I had a hub and bearing go out on a boat trailer going down the road. Tried matching separate parts locally, but were not available. Was able to order all the parts from etrailer at one time. They had on hand and shipped right away. Parts were exactly what I was looking for. Perfect fit. Now if I would have known that the other side would have failed in the next 12 months I would have done them all at the same time.



by:

All the parts I ordered were correct and of good quality. The customer service was outstanding!! I spent probably 30 minutes on the phone with Danielle as we tried to figure out exactly what axle was on my trailer ( wasn’t what it was supposed to be ). The parts showed up in a pretty reasonable amount of time considering the pandemic was in full swing. The prices also were very reasonable, as she searched her inventory for the best price, found a package deal for me with more than I was looking for at less cost than buying the parts individually. I will use them again for sure and definitely recommend them to anyone needing trailer parts.



by:

Installed these bearings and races on my trailer after failure of the manufacture bearings failed because they saved money by not properly lubing at the factory. These have held up well putting on over 40,000 miles and proper lubrication.



by:

Installed the new race and bearing easily. Hauled the trailer loaded 900 miles. All went well.

Eldon

6/4/2016

Ive put about six thousand miles on the trailer since installing them. Everything is fine. Thankyou



by:

Not on a trailer at all. But it was great to so easily find the bearing by dimensions. It is a single bearing under a 6 1/2' tall by 42" diameter lazy susan pantry cabinet in our kitchen. Completely loaded and working great.



by:

Ordered bearings and races for both hubs on my bass boat. Quality seemed better than local auto parts bearings. Also purchased other items on this order and was very pleased with products and customer service I received from etrailer. Informative, fast shipping, and courteous company to work with. Top notch!!



by:

OEM bearings went out on recently acquired trailer, and part numbers obscured with age and damage. etrailer.com was very help in identifying and supplying correct replacement parts. First class service, high quality parts and timely delivery. Repaired and back in service an hour after parts delivery. Couldn't have gone smoother. Will definitely use etrailer.com in future.



by:

Just received my order of replacement bearings, bearing races, hub covers and seals. Great delivery, Every thing was in stock. Etrailer expedited my delivery at no extra charge. I will be installing my parts on my 2002 Pace American Utility Trailer. This is pretty much an obsolete trailer. Make sure you check out the installation videos.



by:

It is just as described and went on perfectly!! I always like getting things that fit right the first time and look to be quality made.
The two that were on my trailer were in very bad condition (JUNK), and these solved my problem very easily. Also, they are at a reasonable price. +++++ all the way!!
The staff that helped me are fantastic in knowledge of there product and SERVICE! One of the best parts is the Fast shipping! A PLUS

Thanks all the way to everyone!



by:

I was in need of replacement parts for my car trailer. I went on line and found e-trailer and reviewed their site, found everything I needed and ordered. The parts arrived in a very timely fashion and everything appears to be of high quality. The cost was also very competitive with other sellers on line. I will definitely be using e-trailer.com in the future should I require more trailer supplies. Thanks for the wonderful experience. Darrel from LaCrosse, Wi



by:

All parts are as I ordered packed well and sent in a timely matter. Will order from company when I need more parts thank you for the service.

Anthony P.

8/8/2016

No problems on any parts i bought thank you!



by:

I am preparing for another long trip in our travel trailer. I recently replaced the brakes, and now all bearings and races. All the parts were perfect replacement.



by:

Quality gets thrown out the window when the packaging is very extremely poor. You do not throw 4 bearings, 4 races and 2 seals in a envelope and let them flop and bang around during handling risking maring or scoring the bearings or races or possibly bending seals. This is a very poor way to handle or pack such items. Hope you will do something about this. Very disappointed.



by:

All the bearings, races, and seals I have purchased from etrailer have been good quality and have never failed. I have used them in my travel trailer for many years.



by:

Purchased bearing races, tapered roller bearings, seals and dust cap to have for spares for our 2012 Catalina Santara 281BHS travel trailer. Quality products .



by:

Everything I ordered was just as advertised, the fit was perfect. I couldn't find any of the parts I needed locally, ThankGod for etrailer to the rescue. Also, the technical assistance was fantastic, Keep up the good work. P



by:

Great product, great service, especially Emily (thank you) Delivery on time and tracking great. Will only get etrailer from now on. Great catalog and how-to videos and info really helps. Highly recommend



by:

just what I needed to repair my trailer bearings, and it fit like a glove. Installation was simple and easy, and everything is working great.

Delivery was timely, and most important, correct!

Your product, attentiveness/responsiveness met my expectation.

Job well done!



by:

Lots of information/data/specs on their products, just the kind of stuff that helps me figure out if its the right part, thanks etrailer.com!


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Show More Reviews

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  • Replacement Bearings, Races and Grease Seal For a 1-3/8" Straight Spindle
    We will have all the replacement bearing parts you will need as we do not have a bearing kit with all the parts you need. First we have the Bearing # L68149 and its corresponding Race # L68111. It is likely that your spindle will use the Grease Seal # 58846 but you should verify your measurements (ID 1.719" / OD 2.565") with your current seal. We also have the Tang Washer # 5-101 for a 1" diameter spindle nut. The Seal Puller # PTW1219 and 7-Piece Installation Set # PTW83020 will aid in...
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  • Replacement Bearings and Seals for Dexter 4.4k Trailer Axle
    For the Dexter 4.4k axle we have the following bearing/seal parts available: Inner Bearing # L68149 Outer Bearing # LM67048 Seal # RG06-050 Inner Race # L68111 Outer Race # LM67010
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  • Replacement Hub And Rotor Assembly For A 2008 Shorelandr Boat Trailer
    After doing some research it seems that your 2008 Shoreland'r boat trailer has a 3,500 pound weight capacity so The Dexter 10 inch Hub-and-Rotor Assembly # K08-435-05 would work for you. Your axle should have an axle sticker or plate on the axle that will inform of you the weight capacity. The bearings are sold separately so you will have to get The Inner Bearing # L68149 and The Outer Bearing # L44649. If your axle does not have an axle sticker or plate located on it if you pull off...
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  • Where to Install Single Disc Brake Kit on Tandem Axle Trailer?
    Normally when installing a single set of disc brakes like the Kodiak Disc Brake Kit for Single Axles # K2R35D on a tandem axle trailer, you'll want to install the new brake kit on the rear axle. Placing the brakes on the rear axle is normally the standard since the rear axle has greater traction than the front axle-consider that the front axle hits bumps first. Also, if you decide to add brakes to the front axle in the future you'll already have the brake lines in place, so you won't have...
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  • Wheel Bearings and Seal for Travel Trailer with Dexter 4400 lb Axles
    Since you are only experiencing it on one side, it sounds like you may have bad bearings or maybe just a bad tire. Worst case, it could be a bent spindle. Normally alignment issues or axle issues would impact both sides of your trailer, so you'd have two tires with odd wear. If you have a slide out on that side, it may be loaded to heavy in that location which can cause that isolated increased tire wear. The bearings you need for this axle are # LM67048 and # L68149. For a seal, you...
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  • Replacement Bearings, Races, Seals, and Grease Caps for 7K Axle
    Since your tandem axle trailer has a 7K GVWR this means that you have 3.5K axles that use the following parts: Inner Bearing - # L68149 Inner Race - # L68111 Outer Bearing - # L44649 Outer Race - # L44610 Grease Seal - # 58846 (1.719" inner diameter) EZ Lube Grease Caps - # RG04-040 The bearings, races, and seals can be found in this kit # BK2-100, so all you'd need are the grease caps # RG04-040 to round out everything you need. Be sure to check what you currently have because even...
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  • Replacement Bearings and Seals for Old Tandem Axle Trailer
    Thank you for providing that information. Based on the fact that you have a # LM67048 outer bearing, # LM67010 race, and measured 1.375" for the ID of the inner bearing it seems like you have a 4,400 lb axle. I would double check that measurement since that would likely mean you need a # L68149 inner bearing and # L68111 race. This has an ID of 1.378" which is incredibly close. These are most commonly paired with a # 58846 grease seal which has an ID of 1.719" and OD of 2.565". Unfortunately...
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  • Oil Bath Hub Bearing Kit For Barrett Trailer Wtih 3,500lb Axle
    The Bearing Kit # BK2-100 is the one most likely to fit your Barrett trailer. You will want to confirm this is the correct kit by comparing it with your current bearings or measuring your spindle and hub. This will include a grease seal if you are planning to change to a greased hub. Outer Bearing: # L44649 ID-1.063" Outer Race: # L44610 OD-1.980" Inner Bearing: # L68149 ID-1.378" Inner Race: # L68111 OD-2.361" Grease Seal: # RG06-050 ID-1.719", OD-2.565" The Kodiak XL ProLube Kit #...
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  • Replacement Brake Drum Hub Assembly For Dexter D44 4,400LB Axle
    Your Dexter D44 Axle number 635096 uses the Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # 8-407-5UC3-EZ that comes preloaded with the Races # LM67010 and # L68111. It does include the Bearings # L68149 and # LM67048, Grease Seal # 58846, Grease Cap # 21-42-1 and lug nuts. The Brake Assemblies # K23-462-463-00 that came with your axle can be upgraded to the Dexter Nev-R-Adjust Electric Trailer Brake Kit # K23-478-479 to reduce the maintenance as well as improve braking and extend the life of your brake...
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  • Replacement Grease Seal For Seal Marked TBY 42.77 65.07 12.7
    It sounds like your boat trailer uses the Seal # 168255TB. The numbers on your seal appear to be the measurements in mm for the seal. This shows the measurements of 1.68", 2.56" and 0.5". The Seal # 168255TB has an inner diameter of 1.687", outer diameter of 2.561" and is 0.5" deep. We do have the Bearing # L68149 and Race # L68111 if either of those also need replaced.
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  • 2021 Grand Design Travel Trailer Toy Hauler Axle Components
    The 4,400lb axles will share some of the same components as the 3,500lb axles. It is a good idea to check your sizes ahead of time to ensure you get the exact product that you need(see article and picture). Here is what we show fitting your 2021 Grand Design Imagine XLS 24MPR Toy Hauler. Inner Bearing # L68149 Inner Race # L68111 Outer Bearing # LM67048 Outer Race # LM67010 Grease Seal # RG06-050 You can still search by your travel trailer just know that since manufacturers don't exactly...
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  • Replacement Bearings, Races, Grease Seals, and Bearing Buddys for 2002 EZ Loader Tandem Axle Trailer
    I am going to list all the parts that you will need to replace the bearings, races, grease seals, and add Bearing Buddys to your 2002 EZ Loader Boat Trailer. You will need 4 of each item to service all 4 wheels. Inner Bearing # L68149 Inner Race # L68111 Outer Bearing # L44649 Outer Race # L44610 Grease Seal # 168255TB Bearing Buddy # BB1980A-SS A 7-Piece Bearing/Race Installation Set # PTW83020 will help you install all your races.
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  • Replacement Trailer Hub Bearings, Races and Grease Seal For Freedom Axle Hub 45264
    Based on the information I was able to locate you will need the following parts for your Freedom Axle Hub 45264. Inner Bearing # L68149 (1.378" ID) Inner Race # L68111 (2.361" OD) Outer Bearing # L44649 (1.063" ID) Outer Race # L44610 (1.980" ID) Grease Seal # 168255TB (1.687" ID, 2.561" OD) I do recommend verifying these measurements to ensure they match what you currently have. If you have different part numbers or measurements please let me know what you found so I can help identify...
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