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Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM67048

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM67048

Item # LM67048
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Our Price: $8.87
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Shipping Weight: 0.26 lbs
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High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM67048 part number LM67048 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-1624 for expert service.
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - LM67048

  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • 5000 lbs Axle
  • 6000 lbs Axle
  • 1.250 Inch I.D.
  • Bearing LM67048
  • Race LM67010
  • etrailer

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Features:

  • Inner diameter: 1.250"
  • Matching race (sold separately): LM67010
  • Application: outer bearing for 8-201-5 and 8-213-5 hubs
    • Equivalent to Dexter part 031-032-02


LM67048 Replacement Bearing





Video of Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM67048

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM67048 - LM67048

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (125 Customer Reviews)

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.

- LM67048
by:

As described and what I expected.



- LM67048
by:

I got what I needed at a good price and received in a timely manner .



- LM67048
by:

Direct replacement, good price, easy to order and arrived earlier than stated.



- Lm67048
by:

PROS: The parts came in on time. CONS: Three of the four inner bearings were the wrong size. I went to O'reillys to get the correct bearings for the job. I use the trailer for work and couldn't wait for etrailer to send me the right bearings. I am currently waiting for a shipping label to send back the wrong bearings for a refund.


Comments
Ill have one of our customer service folks contact you in order to handle this. I apologize for the inconvenience.
-- Etrailer Expert Mike L - 01/29/2018


- LM67048
by:

I have a late 70's boat trailer that needed new tires and wheel bearings... no kits available so I called etrailer and talked to Kayla. We figured out everything over the phone, Kayla got all the the correct bearings and seals to me fast! The tires I ordered where out of stock, but I was upgraded to the galvanized wheel for free!!! Thanks Kayla!!!



- LM67048
by:

etrailer and their customer service are the best i've seen, always there to talk you through the process to help ensure you're buying the right part and answer any questions. Great company!



- LM67048
by:

They always have great prices on these bearings and seals.



- LM67048
by:

I have a boat trailer that requires wheel bearings and seals periodically. It is 20 years old but I easily found replacements at etrailer.com. I bookmarked the parts so I can get them easily next time. Noticed that the original bearings were made in England, the recent ones are made in China and are of equivalent excellent quality. Delivery was prompt, packing very good. Good retailer.



- LM67048
by:

Michelle ...I appreciate the expertise that you used in putting together a wheel/bearing package. Everything was fine ,delivery was speedy ...2 days The packing person really made a mess. The hub assemblies were allowed to come out of their poorly packed box. The hubs bent one of the bearings and 2 seals. The bearings and seals were in an unprotected plastic bag...not in a protection box... Fortunately, I called and the damaged parts were sent to me,quickly I might add. I hope you can review the packing process ,and solve this issue



- LM67048
by:

The bearings,races,and remainder of this order was perfect. However the seals were the wrong size, I sent them back for credit.



- LM67048
by:

So, I needed new bearings and seals for a 1980 travel trailer wherein the axle, hubs and bearings had no markings. Diana (CSR) helped me work through through the options and was able to identify the correct parts. The bearings and seals came in and were a perfect fit. Everything was on time and intact. Very happy with my first etrailer buy.



- LM67048
by:

Removed trailer outer bearing to find a scored "race". Customer Service, extremely helpful and patient in trying to match up a few visible number on the old bearing and race to list of available options in etrailer's stock. Part was a perfect match, pressed in race. assembled hub and wheel, and back in business.



- LM67048
by:

Great products and fast service. I ordered the bearings, race and seals. I ordered the wrong seals so haven't been able to complete. I must have misread something.



- LM67048
by:

Item as described. I have never replaced wheel bearings/seals, I always had someone else do it. This time I tried it on my own, and the parts I ordered/received fit as expected and all is well. thank you etrailer!



- LM67048
by:

Great product, great service, especially Emily (thank you) Delivery on time and tracking great. Will only get etrailer from now on. Great catalog and how-to videos and info really helps. Highly recommend



- LM67048
by:

Perfect fit for my Q633 hub. The associated grease seal was an SL150 which was difficult to find but the etrailer rep tracked it down and now my trailer is FINALLY back up and running! All my future business will go to etrailer.com.



- LM67048
by:

Great company will definitely use again. Thank you for excellent service.



- LM67048
by:

The first time experience with Etrailer has been good on stock availability. Delivery was met. Overall the communication with Etrailer was excellent. The install videos on the items were very useful. I definitely will look at Etrailer first for any future needs.



- LM67048
by:

I used this to replace a bearing on my Hudson HBC10 equipment trailer. The fit matches the old bearing and it's held up fine one year later.



- LM67048
by:

PROS: The package came in on time. CONS: Three of the four inner bearings were wrong. I went to O'reillys to get the correct parts. I cannot wait for etrailer to send me the right ones since I use this trailer for work. I am currently waiting for the shipping label to send back the wrong bearings and get refunded.



- LM67048
by:

Installed these bearings and races on my trailer after failure of the manufacture bearings failed because they saved money by not properly lubing at the factory. These have held up well putting on over 40,000 miles and proper lubrication.



- LM67048
by:

etrailer will leave no stone unturned to find your parts.



- LM67048
by:

I had a non standard axle, so had to call and verify bearings. Was very pleased with the service and that the person on the other end was very easy to understand. Shipment was fast and the parts fit. The price was very competitive.



- LM67048
by:

Good quality - matched fit - very happy with product. I also bought the outer race and seal to go with it as well as bearing cap for the axle. Impressed with the wide range of bearings eTrailer carries, making selection very easy.



- LM67048
by:

I lost a wheel and brake drum and limped into the campground. I called etrailer and ordered the parts through Lazer. My parts arrived the next day and the order was 100% correct. I am safe at home and am one happy camper.


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  • Trailer Hub that Uses Bearing # LM67048 for Inner and Outer
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  • Info Needed to Pick Out Bearings and Seal for Trailer Hub
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  • Availability of Replacement Wheel Bearing Races Compatible w/ LM67048 Wheel Bearings
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  • What is My Axle Weight Capacity With Inner Bearing # 25580 and Outer Bearing # LM67048
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  • Recommendation For Replacement Grease Seals That Fit Bearing LM67048 And Bearing LM11949
    Based on your information, I recommend replacement grease seal, Item # 168233. This fits your bearings, Item # LM67048 and Item # LM11949. You will only need one seal per hub.
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  • Trailer Bearing Availability with Inner Diameter of .75 inch and 1.25 inch
    The fact your outer bearing fits on a .75 diameter spindle means we aren't going to have a standard bearing kit to fit since that's not a standard dimension. Can you get me the C dimension as well? It could be that you need the part # LM67048 with a race # LM67010 which has an inner diameter of 1.25 and # LM11949 with race # LM11910 which has inner diameter of .75 inch.
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  • Recommended Bearings for Boat Trailer Spindle Measurements
    We have the bearings for your spindle measurements, # LM11949 for outer and # LM67048 for your inner bearing. We do have one hub assembly that will work with these bearings. It is the Titan Trailer Hub Assembly for 2,500-lb Axles - 5 on 4-1/2 - Cast # T1721400042.
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  • Availability of Hub Assembly for a 12 inch Wheel with a 5 on 4-1/2 Bolt Pattern
    We do have a hub that is compatible with a 12 inch wheel and has a 5 on 4-1/2 inch bolt pattern. The Titan Trailer Idler Hub Assembly for 2,500-lb Axles # T1721400042 does have the outer bearing # LM11949 which has the 0.750 measurement that you took but you will want to make sure that the inner bearing # LM67048 fits (inner diameter is 1.250 inches) and the grease seal inner diameter of 1.688 inches is compatible with your spindle. If you check out the photo I attached you can look at...
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  • Trailer Hub That Uses Bearings LM11949 and LM67048
    Both replacement trailer brakes and hub/drums should be selected based on the axle weight rating. The best way to select replacement hub/drums is to pull one of the hubs and remove its inner and outer bearings to obtain their part numbers. This is the easiest method to find a compatible hub. When not available measurements can be used but these need to be very precise, to the nearest thousandth of an inch, such as 1.234-inches. We do carry one bearing with an inside diameter of 0.75-inches,...
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  • What are the Correct Bearings and Races for Dexter 8-201 Electric Drum Brakes?
    The Dexter hub you referenced, 8-201, is a 5,200 lb hub, though a 5 on 4-1/2 bolt pattern does not come on 5,200 lb hubs. The correct bearings for the 5,200 lb hub are # 25580 and # LM67048, while the proper races are # 25520 and # LM67010. I have attached a link to a help article on wheel bearings that you may find useful. If you can provide the diameter of the brake assemblies and/or the axle capacity, I would be happy to make a specific recommendation for you.
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  • Availability of Bearing Race to Match Bearing Number LM67048
    The matching race for the bearing part # LM67048 that you referenced is the part # LM67010. This has an outer diameter of 2.328 inches. The race we have that has an outer diameter of 2.441 inch is the part # 15245 which is designed for the bearing # 15123. The # 15123 happens to have an inner diameter of 1.25 inch like the # LM67048 that you mentioned as well.
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  • Replacement Parts or Replacement for Mobile Home Axle
    What parts are you needing, exactly? If you need bearings and a grease seal, we can likely help you there but for replacement hubs, we don't offer anything that would work with bearing sets with the dimensions you mentioned. If you could reply with the reference number from the inner race or bearing, I'd be happy to recommend a replacement inner bearing and grease seal. Your outer bearing dimension points to a # LM67048 bearing which uses a # LM67010 race. Mobile home axles are a one-time...
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  • Bearing Buddy Seal Kit Recommendation for a Hub With LM67048 Bearing
    The inner diameter of the steel ring of the Spindle Grease Seal Set # BB60008 is 1.25 inches as it will have the same inner diameter as the inner bearing # LM67048 that is rides against like what you currently have. Since you have an inner bearing of # LM67048 this would be the correct kit to use. Check out the review video I attached for more info.
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  • Bearing Replacements for L68149 and LM67048
    We have the individual parts you need but not as a kit. You'd want the bearing part # LM67048 and # L68149. Since this is not a standard bearing combination I would need to know more info to pick out the seal. I'd need to know the diameter of your spindle where the seal rides as well as the diameter of the hub where the seal installs.
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