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  1. Trailer Hitch
  2. Draw-Tite
  3. Class III
  4. 2 Inch Hitch
  5. 4000 lbs GTW
  6. Visible Cross Tube
Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2"

Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2"

Item # 75673
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Retail:$355.79
Our Price: $178.93
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Trailer Hitch

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75673 - Class III Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch
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Product Expert Kathleen M

Is this right For you? Product Expert Kathleen M says:

Yes, if you:

  • Have a trailer with large hooks on the safety chains

No, if you:

  • Are new to DIY projects or have limited tools to cut or drill into your Subaru as needed to install this hitch
  • Have a steep driveway that your long platform bike rack or cargo carrier might scrape
Fully welded vehicle trailer hitch is strong and durable. Draw-Tite's Tested Tough guarantee ensures that this hitch exceeds industry standards. The combination of an e-coat base and a powder coat finish provides excellent rust protection. Lowest Prices for the best trailer hitch from Draw-Tite. Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2" part number 75673 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 1-636-306-4830 for expert service.
  • All Info
  • Reviews (912)
  • Q & A (0)
  • Photos
  • Why etrailer?

Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch - 75673

  • Class III
  • 2 Inch Hitch
  • 4000 lbs GTW
  • Draw-Tite
  • Visible Cross Tube
  • 600 lbs TW
  • Custom Fit Hitch

Fully welded vehicle trailer hitch is strong and durable. Draw-Tite's Tested Tough guarantee ensures that this hitch exceeds industry standards. The combination of an e-coat base and a powder coat finish provides excellent rust protection.


Features:

  • Custom-fit trailer hitch lets you tow a trailer or carry a bike rack or cargo carrier with your vehicle
  • Computer-aided, fully welded steel construction ensures strength and durability
  • Tested Tough - safety and reliability criteria exceed industry standards
  • Easy, bolt-on installation - no welding required
    • Complete hardware kit and installation instructions included
  • Lifetime technical support from the experts at etrailer.com
  • Black powder coat finish covers e-coat base for superior rust protection
  • Sturdy, square-tube design
  • Ball mount, pin and clip sold separately


Specs:

  • Receiver opening: 2" x 2"
  • Rating: Class III
    • Maximum gross trailer weight: 4,000 lbs
    • Maximum tongue weight: 600 lbs
    • Not rated for use with weight-distribution systems
  • Limited lifetime warranty


Draw-Tite Tested Tough

Draw-Tite Tested Tough

Draw-Tite's Tested Tough program provides testing standards far superior to those outlined by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE), the go-to source for engineering professionals.



Each Draw-Tite trailer hitch receiver undergoes extensive fatigue testing and static testing with the ball mount that is either supplied or recommended for use with that particular hitch, thus ensuring results that are applicable to real life use. Fatigue testing is also conducted on hitches rated for use with weight-distribution systems.


In addition, Draw-Tite performs static testing on a simulated automobile, as opposed to the rigid fixture used for SAE testing, resulting in a more true-to-life scenario.


etrailer.com Technical Support

At etrailer.com we're committed to the products we sell, and to our customers. Our experienced and knowledgeable staff are available via both phone and email to address your questions and concerns for the lifetime of your hitch. The technicians at etrailer perform hitch installations on a daily basis, making them a valuable resource for do-it-yourselfers. The one-on-one, personal service you'll receive comes straight from an expert in the towing and automotive field. We've installed it, we've wired it and we've towed with it, so whatever your question, we can answer it.



75673 Draw-Tite Class 3 Trailer Hitch Receiver - Max-Frame

87568 Hidden Hitch Class 3 Trailer Hitch Receiver

Installation Details 75673 Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles



California residents: click here



Customer Reviews

Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2" - 75673

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (912 Customer Reviews)

Fully welded vehicle trailer hitch is strong and durable. Draw-Tite's Tested Tough guarantee ensures that this hitch exceeds industry standards. The combination of an e-coat base and a powder coat finish provides excellent rust protection.

by:

I installed this hitch receiver on a Subaru Outback. My car had dual exhaust, so the prep to get the receiver installed took a little longer than I had expected when reading other reviews and watching videos. But, besides that, the installation went smoothly. The bolt guide wires and using a helper were definitely the 2 big things that I would recommend to someone else. The only reason for not rating this Excellent is due to the way the part was packaged and shipped (from Missouri to Connecticut). The box arrived damaged, as the mounting surfaces had broken thru in 2 places, allowing the coating to be chipped off in several areas. Overall I'm happy with the receiver and have already used a cargo tray with it. The packaging could be better in my opinion.


Comments
Thank you for reaching out to us. I have sent your information along to our customer service team.
-- Etrailer Expert Brooke M - 04/28/2022


by:
2012 Subaru Outback Wagon

Though hesitant to order this for a 10 year old car, I did so upon realizing that the cost of this hitch was not that much more than just a single day of bike rentals for my family. Initially I will be using my receiver bike carrier on a family vacation. I previously was very satisfied with Draw-Tite receivers, so went ahead and ordered this hitch on a Sunday and was pleasantly surprised to receive it on the following Thursday. Also to my surprise was that it was packaged nicely in a double-wall box, so it arrived at my doorstep in pristine condition! Installation was quite straight-forward, and though this Draw-Tite is more visible than some other hitches, it really isn't very noticeable. One reason I chose this over the other brands was that it appears to distribute the load over a greater contact area. Thanks etrailer.com!




by:
2011 Subaru Outback Wagon

I followed the videos as exactly as I could to clear the way and place the bolts. Then I used an old transmission scissors jack to raise the hitch into place so as not to push the bolts back up into the channel. I also bought some 7/16" retainer washers at the hardware store and slid them on the bolts and then replaced the wire bolt threaders once the bolts were in place as extra insurance not to push the bolts up into the frame channel. It seemed daunting at first but taking it slow and step-by-step worked perfectly.




by:
2018 Subaru Outback Wagon

Great product at a reasonable price, with superb installation videos provided to allow even a novice to install easily. This is the second trailer hitch that I have purchased from this company (one for each car I have) since the first experience went so well, I knew that if I was going to do it a second time, it had to be with etrailer to provide me with the quality and confidence that I needed. Thanks so very much!




by:

Easy to install and sturdy. It would be five star if the 2 inch receiver wasn't so far under the bumper. It's difficult to reach the hole where the pin holds the hitch in place.




by:

No problems after receiving the correct hitch. The install with the correct hitch was simple, no drilling, 15 to 20 minutes to install. The hitch sits a little low on a 2020 Subaru Legacy (less ground clearance than the Subaru Outback) an can scrape on some driveway and entrance ramps. A better alternative is the hitch that is accessed through the bumper, but that is 3 times as expensive and 5 times the work involved. So, this hitch works fine.




by:
2014 Subaru Outback Wagon

I finished the hitch install on my 2014 Subaru Outback today. It went without a "hitch" so to speak. I did the job alone (age 69) and managed it well because of some hints from previous writers.

First, I drilled access holes from inside the trunk area as suggested. Remove the black adhesive dots over each hole and drill them out to 1 1/8" using a step drill (see photos 1.jpg, 2.jpg, 3.jpg). I didn't have a vacuum cleaner handy so I used a small magnet to collect all the metal cuttings. (see photo 4.jpg)

I then raised the rear of the car with ramps to get easier access underneath.

I took off the muffler which was not too difficult once the rubber shock-absorbers were liberally doused with WD-40. Getting it back on later was another story. That thing is heavy and it took quite a few "bench-presses" to get it up and slid onto the outboard rubber shock-absorber. After that, the inner one and the final bolt-down was a lot easier.

I also removed and drilled out the heat shield to clear the hitch bolt. The step-drill was perfect for this as well.

I removed the small rubber plugs from the four hitch holes under the car. The holes could then be clearly seen from above so guiding the bolts and plates into the holes using the included guide-wires turned out to be extremely easy.

I used my 3 ton hydraulic jack to suspend and position the hitch. I clamped it to the jack pad using two small c-clamps. Once in position an raised up, I could easily finger-tighten the rear nuts (rear of the hitch/front of the car). Then I took off the c-clamps in order to push the front of the hitch up into place with the jack.

Tightening everything down to 50 ft/lbs. finished the job.

I also found some plastic snap-in covers that perfectly fit the drilled holes in the trunk. I used these to seal the holes from dirt and to give it a finished appearance. (see photo 5.jpg).

Next was the wiring harness. That turned out to be a bit tricky. I searched the wheel well housing on the drivers side but couldn't feel any wires. Then I found a YouTube video from a 2011 Outback that made it clear that the carpeting behind the rear seats had to be removed as well as the long foam strip adjacent to it. It is held down with three snaps...one in the front (fixed) and two loose plugs in the back. Once this was removed I was able to find and pull out the connector. The rest was easy. Plug in the connector, thread the wire back a bit, hide the black box under the wheel well housing and continue the wire around the outside edge of the trunk and into the spare-tire area.

Everything went back together nicely. I brought the hitch cable up into the foam tray where it would be easier to get when needed. I plan to run it out the tailgate and I don't at all think it will be damaged by the rubber weatherseal.


Comments
I did my install the same way your did. Thanks for the instructions. Helped me out A LOT.Where did find the plastic snap-in covers for the drilled holes? Would love to cover mine up as I left them open. Thanks,Joe
-- comment by: Joe B - 07/23/2014
Joe, I found the gray snap-in covers at my local hardware store in the nuts and bolts section. There are cabinets with pull-out drawers and I found them there. The ones I got said 1 but they fit the slightly larger holes just fine. I liked the idea that the holes were covered to keep stuff from falling in, especially liquid spills. If you cant find the plastic covers, just use some heavy-duty duct tape.
-- comment by: Jim H - 07/24/2014
I followed Jim Hs instructions on my new 2015 Outback and it was really easy. The hitch looks great and was on in under an hour.
-- comment by: Jeff S - 04/21/2015
I still absolutely love the hitch. I dont even realize its there except when I need it. I also like that it doesnt compromise the road height of my Subaru. It was easy to install and looks good too. Besides, I think it adds to the overall value of my car.It would have been perfect if it came with a rubber hitch cover-plug I bought one later. I would have liked one with eTrailer written on it!
Jim H - 05/15/2015


by:

Pretty good fit
Install time, start
to finish: 2.5 hours

Purpose of hitch: Mount our existing bike rack. It’s never intended to tow anything

My skill level: Moderately competent. I’ll do the more strait forward work on the vehicles such as oil changes and brake work.

Tools used: 2.5 ton floor jack, 4 jack stands, various drills and wrenches, straps & WD-40

My first recommendation is to watch the video before starting the install. Lots of good tips and it’s nice to see the job done completely before attempting it yourself. Pay attention to the great tips about the WD-40 and strap with the exhaust system.

One small point of variance between the video and my installation was how large to drill the hole. The mechanic in the video sized it to the bolts. However, the blocks in my parts bag were slightly larger than the bolts – I had to drill to that size.
I don’t have a professional garage with a lift, so I put the vehicle up on jack stands.

Make sure you have a GREAT setting on the jack stands, not just “good enough”. There will be a lot of pushing and pulling on the vehicle you don’t want it falling off the stands with you underneath. I spent about 20 minutes getting it up on the stands and solid before I was happy.

Another tip is to use the floor jack as an extra hand when installing the hitch. I did this job alone so there was no one else there to help hold the hitch in place while I did the first bolts. I placed the receiver on the floor jack and used that to hold the weight while I adjusted and put in the first bolts.

Oh, and for the love of whatever deity you hold dear: wear safety goggles! Mandatory when drilling the frame above your head. The flying metal debris hurt when it was hitting my exposed arms, I can’t imagine that stuff hitting my eyes.

Make sure you have a torque wrench so you know those bolts are tight enough. I also used thread-locker since I never want this thing loosening up.

The installed hitch is very solid on the frame. It feels like a factory installed part. My wife is happy because it’s not very noticeable (her car).


Comments
Its been a year. The hitch worked without issue. Several trips local and cross-country with the bike rack attached to the hitch. My Wife liked it because she retained access to the rear hatch without having to pull off the entire bike rack system if it was one of those strapped to the back window. Outside of that, shes never mentioned it, which is good: low visibility but nice utility.
Randall G - 07/08/2019


by:
2017 Subaru Outback Wagon

Hesitant about installing this hitch by myself was on my mind so often between ordering it and receiving it, that I watched the EXCELLENT installation video 10 ten times to be sure I would do it correctly. I must say that anyone could do this without really any experience as long as they followed the video! WELL DONE, etrailer!

I also must say that alternative ideas by other customers led me to alter some of the methods for installation. Thanks and KUDOS to those who suggested drilling from the inside top of the cargo area---much easier and safer all around! The individuals who used the idea of raising the hitch into place via a car jack also need to be commended---being the only one around on the day of installing it I thought would be a challenge, but those ingenious people with their carjack idea and picture submissions made this job a breeze! Thank you!

All-in-all, not only was the price right for the hitch but the website, service, pictures, videos, AND customer submissions with their GREAT IDEAS made this event a pleasant and self-satisfying experience.

Thank you, George, for emailing me with updates, etc. And, thank you, etrailer, for the positive experience!


Comments
So far, I’ve had this hitch a year and all is well as can be expected. When I find that I need something for trailering, hauling, etc., I turn to etrailer first to search for options. The full array of information available for any project is tremendous. Customer reviews and tips make this site a valuable tool for those who are interested in DIY endeavors.
Scott H - 06/08/2018


by:
Subaru Outback

I was a little intimidated by the prospect of installing this hitch, but it turned out very well in the end. Many thanks to the excellent videos at etrailer and the comments from my awesome fellow-customers. Looks great, works great, and total install time was only about 2 hours. I'm reasonably good with tools in general, but little to no auto mechanic experience.

Here are a few tips I found very helpful (many of them from the other reviews). Some would have helped me decide sooner to take the plunge:

1) The hitch actually installs on four bolt holes already provided in the frame by Subaru for installing a trailer hitch. The only reason the instructions have you drilling new holes under the car is to provide a way to fish the bolts through from the top, which takes us to our next point...

2) I highly recommend drilling down from the trunk area, rather than drilling up from under the car (thanks to the other reviews for this tip!). It's not only easier, but also means your holes aren't exposed to the weather. In fact, your new holes will be entirely covered by the snap-in panels in the trunk. Other reviewers have talked about removing the bumper -- in that case you don't have to drill any holes and I'm sure it's the best approach if you're comfortable doing that.

3) You must fully remove the rubber bumper hanger that is closest to the rear of the car. It wasn't clear to me initially, and I just took the bumper off the hanger, leaving the rubber hanger attached to the car. The hitch won't fit over the rubber hanger, and you'll be in no position to deal with it once you start trying to lift the hitch into place.

4) As others have said, removing the muffler entirely is probably the best way to go. I was a little concerned about doing that, but it was easy to get off and back on. If your car is very old, it might be tougher.

5) I had a second person assist me in lifting the hitch assembly into place, and cannot imagine trying to do that by myself. Definitely get a helper!


Comments
Oops - when I said bumper hanger I meant muffler hanger. Whether you remove the muffler or just it down, youll need to fully remove the rubber hanger that is closest to the back of the car.
-- comment by: Brett H - 06/02/2013

Wow, you did an excellent job of explaining everything you did. I agree, it sounds like drilling down instead of drilling up from the bottom of the carframe is the way to go. Once again thanks for the great job, Im ordering the hitch for our 2013 Outback today!
-- comment by: bruce v - 09/30/2013


by:
2017 Subaru Legacy

The box was too big for the hitch. Powder coating chipped all over thinner areas. Superficial scratches and scrapes all over.

Hitch seems very sturdy.

Install was easy. Instructions were clear. Installation videos on website were extremely helpful.




by:

I purchased this trailer so I could mount a Kuat Sherpa 2.0 bike rack to the back of my Subaru outback. I know there are cheaper hitch receivers out there, but I wanted something that would look sleek and tucked away. This did all those things and performs great. Very happy with my purchase




by:
2014 Subaru Outback Wagon

Excellent fit on my 2014 Subaru Outback. I did not drill a hole underneath because the 2014 Outback has 4 observation holes in the trunk directly above the hits mounting holes covered with tape. All I need to do was enlarge them to insert the rectangular washer. Also instead of cutting the heat sheild I just drilled a hole where the bolt needs to pass..Easy installation. Took me less than 45 minutes.


Comments
Are the observation holes located under the styrofoam side floor panels on either side of the trunk? If so they are secured with two plastic retaining clips - do they just pop off if you pull on them?
-- comment by: Mark W - 12/22/2014


by:
Subaru

This is exactly what I needed for my 2013 Subaru Outback! Installation went smoothly. Thanks for the videos, they were a great help!




by:
2012 Subaru Outback Wagon

I needed a hitch for my wife 2012 Subaru Outback for hauling sport bikes to track days and occasional utility hauling. A google search brought me to the etrailer site. The biggest advantage of the trailer site is the access of instructional videos and the additional resources from their previous customers experiences and advise; I found this to be most useful for installing the hitch. The quality of the products is good, the hitch had numerous chips in the paint which may be problematic for corrosion in the future, but for the price I have no complaint. The hitch appears to be the same one offered by Uhaul. The overall costs when a complete package is ordered are about the same. Regardless of the price I would and will purchase all my future trailer need from etrailer, and will recommend etrailer to future customers.

Regarding installation; (read all the the customer reviews) I would recommend drilling four holes from inside the trunk area instead of two holes from the bottom up. Additionally I recommend a $10.00 hole saw instead of the $50.00 conical shaped "step drill". The hole saw worked well, even without a pilot bit. It took about 5 minutes to drill the four holes.

If you have access to floor jack, use it, it made positioning the hitch into place a one person job.

Use liberal amounts of lubricant to remove the three rubber muffler mounts and remove them completely from the vehicle, it makes reinstallation easier.




by:

Pretty straightforward install. You will need a hole saw for the frame rails, calls for 1 1/8". It actually drilled out easier than expected, but wear protection as those shavings are HOT. Sits under the bumper enough so it's not really seen.




by:
2017 Subaru Outback Wagon

Overall, I am very pleased with the entire purchasing and installation process, as well as the finished product. What makes this website great, is the depth of information in pictures, videos, and reviews of the different hitch options. I felt that all of this helped lead me to the choice of hitch that best fit my needs and expectations.

This particular hitch is great if you don't want the installed product to protrude out too visibly, or extend out to where you would accidentally strike your shin/knee against it. The hitch tucks away nicely underneath the bumper. In theory, this could limit some choices in accessories, but the aesthetic gains more than compensate for that in my opinion.

I chose to remove the bumper cover for installation, so that no drilling or wire-fishing would be necessary. I can see why the sellers don't recommend this option, as it requires reasonable amounts of finesse with the various bumper fasteners and cover. However, if you consider yourself a technical and mechanically inclined person, this is rather simple process that is fairly well described by others online. When the bumper cover is off, the hitch hanging bolts can be fed in through the "frame tubes" that are covered by the bumper.

For a one person install, the most difficult thing for me was actually holding the hitch in place as I threaded the fasteners on to fasten it. Having someone supply an extra set of hands for this part would make it very simple and easy.

Although we don't plan to do much actual towing, it is nice to have the option with this class of hitch, considering the respectable weight ratings. This was purchased with accessories (bike racks, etc.) in mind, but is a good value considering what the lighter hitches cost. And, it is reasonably inconspicuous when installed.




by:

I ordered on the 5th and my original delivery date was the 8th. The delivery date kept getting moved back. After about a week of that I called. The guy explained that they were short staffed like everyone else. I finally received my ordered on the 18th. I installed it today. Everything went pretty well and then I go to lift hitch into place and it doesnt line up exactly. I had to muscle it and coax it into position to get all four bolts to go through. The last bolt was pretty hesitant to line up. Hopefully the pressure I had to apply doesn’t mess up the welds. One of the driver side holes for the heat shields bolts was totally out of alignment. I end up having to drill out part of the hitch that was blocking the hole. What a pain in the rear. Anyhow, I got it on there and torqued it down good. Overall it looks good and I hope we will get many years of service out of it.

As for techniques, I did what many others did: removed muffler, used a step up bit, and drilled holes from top. Beware the price of a step up bit. The one I bought set me back $xx. I wasn’t prepared for that. Probably would be cheaper just to buy a 1 1/8” hole saw bit. I didn’t have to use a jack or anything to hold hitch in place. I was able to lay on my back and hold hitch up with knee/one arm and get one nut threaded on.


Comments
Sorry about all of the inconveniences. It sounds like your hitch brackets were flexed, causing the fitment issues. Drilling another hole in the hitch is never recommended. The warranty is voided and it may impact the integrity. Here are tips in this help article attached that will help with flexed hitch:
-- Etrailer Expert Sierra K - 12/20/2021


by:

Excellent product and easy to install if you do your homework. Arrived in 2 days with free shipping. Watched the videos on this site and read through the reviews for hints. I decided to take the remove the muffler route. The night before I hit the nuts and the isolators with some WD-40 and then did it again in the morning right before the project. I also also decided to go through the trunk to access the frame. It was a little nerve racking to remove the side trunk foam panels that are attached to the floor via some black clips. I couldn't find mention of these anywhere...not even on youtube. Anyway I went ahead and stuck a screwdriver underneath and carefully pried up until the clips released like projectiles. Not sure if this was the best way but no damage was done (I think). Took the muffler off. The nuts on the exhaust system were tough and had to pull out the 1/2 inch driver to get enough leverage. I had a much easier time removing the muffler off the rubber isolators than folks on this page seemed to have. It wasn't even that heavy and I have birdie arms. :) I then took off the heat shield. Now let's go top side. Ok the foam flooring has been removed and I take the black tape off the holes and then go under to take out the black plugs out of the frame holes. Now I can go top side and look down through the trunk holes and see the frame holes. Sweet. Ok now I get my handy dandy 1 1/8" step drill and start drilling. Rip zip and there goes my step drill bit right into the hole and into the frame. Good grief. The step drill bit wouldn't fit in my small drill (3/8") so I used a socket attachment for the bit. Well I didn't think ahead and when I drilled through all the way (metal is thin and the drill bit cut quickly) it fell right off into the frame. After a little panic I managed to get it back to the hole and use some needle nose pliers to grab a hold of it and fish it out. The remainder of the holes I stopped before loosing the bit again. Vacuumed out the shavings. Now I used the fish wire and installed the block and the bolt and then taped the washer to the underside on the frontward bolts. Using info gleaned from these reviews I placed the hitch on a jack and moved it into position. I wrangled it into position and hand tightened the rearward bolts first. When I went to do the front bolts the hitch wouldn't cooperate. It was getting hung up on the rearward muffler isolator which needed to be completely removed. After that it was a breeze to hand tightened the frontward bolts. Tightened everything with a torque wrench. Used the step drill to drill out a hole for the nut in the heat shield instead of cutting it. This worked great. Reinstalled the heat shield and reinstalled the rearward muffler isolator. Installed the muffler and the key here is lots of WD-40. Put some duct tape over the access holes in the trunk and reinstalled the foam panels. Start to finish in under 2 hours. Relaxed pace.




by:
Subaru Outback Wagon

The hitch fits the Subaru Outback (2014) perfectly, and it does not stick out beyond the bumper, which is good. I would mention three things.

First, it IS possible to perform a 1-man installation, fairly easily, if you have a car jack. As shown in the picture, put a bucket with a cover on the car jack and raise the hitch up. Use 2x4 scraps or anything else you have to push the rails up exactly where you want them, attach the washers and nuts, and you're done.

Second, pay close attention to the backing plates for the carriage bolts. The shorter one MUST go in the rear hole and the longer one MUST go in the forward hole. Otherwise the plate in the forward hole (which is too short) will spin and you won't be able to tighten the nut. Then, everything has to come out and you start over. Bad karma.

Third, to drill the 1 1/8 inch holes through the frame, go to Harbor freight Tools, or to a good hardware store and buy a step drill as shown in the picture. It will cut through the frame like butter, and cut exactly the right size hole in seconds




by:

Great products, excellent customer service, and timely delivery. I have purchased three hitches through each trailer through the years, and will continue to do so as neded.




by:
2017 Subaru Outback Wagon

The hitch arrived in only 2 or 3 days! I installed it on our brand new 2017 Subaru Outback with the help of my wife. Watching the etrailer video and reading all the reviews and comments was extremely helpful. We did this quite easily in the street in front of our house without putting the back wheels up on ramps or blocks. As many before me have suggested, (read all the comments!) I fished the bolts in from above and strongly recommend this approach. Snap off the side carpet/floor pieces. then carefully get your hand under the foam pieces and snap them up (the plastic snap fastener will fly up unless you catch it). Under the foam pieces there is a hole each side of the spare tire well covered with a circle of black tape. Remove the tape and enlarge those two holes (one on each side) to 1 1/8 inch. I used a conical pipe reamer in a brace but a step bit would work great if you have one ($44 at home depot so I used what I had). I fished the wires from below and my wife pulled the wires through the access holes from above using a hemostat (needle nose plier), slipped on the heavy steel bars and threaded the bolts onto the wires. Make sure you get the short blocks towards the back and the longer ones towards the front as per instructions. Then I easily pulled the bolts into place. Leave the wires on, put the hitch under the car, route the wires through the holes in the hitch. I lifted the passenger side up close to the bolts and my wife slid in under and held it up while I went around to the driver's side, lifted the hitch up over the bolts, pulled a wire off and put a nut on finger tight without a washer. I then quickly crossed back over and held the passenger side while my wife slipped out, got one nut on, again without a washer at first. Then I could easily put the other nuts on with washers and then get the washers under the first nuts. As others suggested I drilled a large hole in the heat shield to fit around the hitch bolt rather than cut the corner off. Worked great. line up the heat shield bolts and then tighten up all the bolts. Since the car was new and had no rust I elected to remove just the muffler-two bolts, two rubber hangers, it made the job MUCH easier but if you've got a lot of rust....maybe not. Home Depot had nice metal plugs to fit 1 1/8 which I installed in access holes with sealant. Worked great. I attached a picture of the finished plugged hole and the finished hitch So, I'm 62 have experience working on things, have fair number of tools etc. , my wife is 59 . We were able to do this quite easily but it really helped that the car was new and not dirty and rusty. Very happy all around, perfect fit, easy install, like how it is tucked right under the bumper...looks great.




by:

Great product, holds up well! Installation was mostly straightforward; a little tricky when we almost lost one of the rectangular bolt attachment receiving ends inside the frame of the car. We ended up pulling up the trim from the inside of the trunk to look down into the frame and were able to use a coat hanger to fish out the rectangular piece (which only is replaceable as part of a $60 parts set from etrailer!!! We couldnt find it at the hardware store or anything...)


Comments
Great!
Dan K - 01/01/2022


by:
2018 Subaru Outback Wagon

Followed the tips in other reviews, installation was a breeze. Expect this to be overkill for a single bike rack or small utility trailer.




by:

First, I'd like to reiterate how great the customer service was from etrailer.com - honestly one of the best online shopping experiences I've had.

On to the install...mine wasn't quite as trivial as some others, but it was nobody's fault but my own. I installed the hitch without jacking up the car which, while possible, made for very tight working quarters. I also forgot to re-install the heat shield, so had to remove the hitch completely. Typical me. All in all the install took me a couple hours.

Thanks to the suggestions from others, I also went through the trunk to gain access rather than drilling a hole in the frame, which I really didn't want to do. It wasn't hard to go through the trunk, I used a step bit (also thanks to someone's suggestion) and enlarged one of the existing holes in the body. It did add some time though. It was trivial to thread the front hardware through, a little more challenging to fish it through to the back ones.

I also removed the muffler, definitely made things a lot easier, especially since I didn't jack the car up.

I did use my jack to lift the hitch into place, but it was still extremely nice to have a second set of hands to keep everything balanced and aligned.

I'm extremely pleased with the result - the hitch is tucked away nicely under the bumper and looks great. Thanks etrailer.com!



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See what our Experts say about this Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch



  • Is Drilling Required to Install Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch 75673 on 2014 Subaru Outback
    To install the Draw-Tite Class III Receiver, part # 75673 the instructions state that a 1-1/8 inch access hole will need to be drilled in the bottom of the frame to allow the hardware to be fished up inside the frame. The easiest way to make the hole would be to use a hole saw. I will provide a link to the install instructions as well as a link to an install video for you to review.
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  • What Kind of Hole Saw Will I Need to Install a Draw-Tite # 75673 on my 2011 Subaru Outback
    You will need to get a 1-1/8 inch hole saw that is designed for metal to install this Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch Receiver onto your 2011 Subaru Outback. You should be able to find this type of saw at your local hardware store. I attached installation instructions and the installation video for this hitch below for you to check out also.
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  • Location of Draw-Tite Class III 2 Inch Hitch # 75673 on a 2011 Subaru Outback Wagon
    The Outback Sport is referring to the Subaru Impreza model that is called the Outback Sport. The Draw-Tite Class III 2 Inch Hitch, part # 75673, is visible underneath the rear fascia, but the receiver tube does not protrude from under the vehicle. When the factory hitch is installed the rear fascia is removed from the vehicle and mounted behind the fascia, but the receiver tube does stick out about 2 to 3 inches from the fascia. Because of safety issues I would NOT recommend to modify...
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  • Drilling Holes to Install the Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch # 75673 on a 2010 Subaru Outback Wagon
    When installing the Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch, # 75673, on a 2010 Subaru Outback, you will want to drill the new access holes to fishwire the bolts through as specified in the instructions, linked for reference. Enlarging holes on the frame or hitch is not advisable because the hitch will be relying more on the square block rather than the frame of the vehicle and that could cause failure.
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  • Is it Necessary to Plug Holes of Frame After Hitch Install on a 2014 Subaru Outback
    You would not need to plug up the install holes used to install a hitch like the part # 75673 on your 2014 Subaru Outback Wagon. It would be extremely difficult to get water up in the vehicle frame with the plugs removed as the hitch hardware will be in its place. We have sold a ton of this hitch and have not had any feedback that mentioned water getting trapped in the frame and creating rust issues. Check out the install video I attached for more info.
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  • Will Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch # 75673 Fit 2015 Subaru Legacy with Dual Exhaust
    I spoke with my contact at Draw-Tite and yes, Trailer Hitch, #75673, will fit a 2015 Subaru Legacy with dual exhaust. You will just need to temporarily lower the exhaust system on both sides on the vehicle by removing the two rubber isolators from the muffler hangers and one below rear axle. Spraying the hangers will allow for easier removal.
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  • Trailer Hitch Recommendation for a 2015 Subaru Outback Wagon
    The Draw-Tite part # 75673 that you referenced has been confirmed to fit your 2015 Subaru Outback Wagon so I would recommend it for you. The install video and process would be the exact same as in the 2014 Subaru install video that I attached.
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  • Hitch Recommendation for a 2015 Subaru Outback
    The Draw-Tite part # 75673 that you referenced has been confirmed as a fit for your 2015 Subaru Outback and has a 600 lb tongue weight rating so IT has enough capacity for towing your trailer, but if the vehicle ends up having a lower tongue weight capacity than the hitch you have to go with the lower of the two ratings as the overall capacity since you are only as strong as your weakest towing component. Basically you will need to figure out the weight of your trailer when it will be...
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  • Why are Carriage Bolts and Blocks Used to Install Hitch on a 2011 Subaru Outback
    I would recommend you install the hitch on your 2011 Subaru Outback Wagon like the installation instructions recommend. It would be extremely difficult to use regular bolts with the square spacer block since that would require you to have a wrench on the top of the bolt to prevent it from spinning while torqueing down the fastener. That is why the block and carriage bolt is used. I attached an install video for you to check out as well.
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  • Factory vs Aftermarket Trailer Hitch for 2015 Subaru Outback Wagon
    The Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch Receiver - Class III # 75673 is confirmed to fit your 2015 Subaru Outback Wagon. This hitch will work well for you and I recommend the Draw-Tite # 75673 for your Outback. One benefit we have found to the aftermarket trailer hitches for the Subaru Outback is the location of the hitch pin hole. The hitch pin hole on the Subaru factory hitches sits much closer to the front of the hitch receiver than the hitch pin hole on aftermarket hitches. This creates a problem...
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  • Compatibility of Thule EasyFold Bike Rack with Draw-Tite 75673 on 2013 Outback Wagon
    Thank you for your purchases from etrailer, including the Draw-Tite Class III receiver # 75673 and the Thule EasyFold bike rack # TH903202 for use on your wife's 2013 Subaru Outback Wagon. When we installed this hitch on a 2013 Outback we measured 5-1/2-inches from the center of the hitch pin hole to the rear edge of the bumper cover. On the Thule EasyFold carrier the foot of the carrier is 7-inches from the hitch pin hole so it will fit well.
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  • Trailer Hitch Recommendation For 2016 Subaru Outback Wagon
    You are correct that all of the trailer hitches that we currently offer for your 2016 Subaru Outback will require drilling to install the hitch. The Draw-Tite trailer hitches require that an access hole be drilled in order to fishwire the installation hardware, and then the hitch is installed through pre-existing holes in the frame. The Curt trailer hitches require that an existing hole be enlarged to allow for the hardware to be fishwired, and then the hitch is installed in one existing...
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  • Which Capacity is Overall Capacity for 2016 Subaru Outback, the Hitch or the Owners Manual Capacity
    Hitches and vehicles often times will have different towing capacities. The key is to always use the lowest figure in the setup as the overall capacity as that would be the weakest link. So if you went with a higher capacity hitch on either your 2016 Subaru Outback like part # 75673 or on your Equinox you would have to go by what is listed in the owners manual as the overall capacity if it is less. I don't know what year Equinox you have otherwise I would recommend a hitch for it as well.
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  • Will the Mounting Holes of the Draw-Tite # 75673 Line Up with Holes on a 2015 Subaru Outback
    The Draw-Tite part # 75673 is a confirmed fit for your 2015 Subaru Outback Wagon. It will match the pre-drilled holes on the frame of your vehicle. The only reason the holes wouldn't line up is if the hitch were to somehow get bent in shipping. Which as long as the hitch isn't creased or has paint flaking off this would be a perfectly fine solution.
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  • How Much Do Frame Holes have to be Enlarged to Install a Trailer Hitch on a 2017 Subaru Outback
    There isn't a specific measurement given for enlarging the frame holes to install Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2" Item # 75673 on your 2017 Subaru Outback. Basically the holes have to be enlarge just enough to fit the installation hardware inside. To enlarge the holes you can use a file, drill, hammer and chisel, or rotary tool. They won't have to be enlarged much to get the hardware to fit. I have linked a video showing an example installation for you.
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  • Recommended Class lll Trailer Hitch For 2015 Subaru Outback Wagon
    We do have Class lll trailer hitches that are designed to fit your 2015 Outback Wagon, but Hidden Hitch is no longer being manufactured. I recommend the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver # 75673. This is identical to the Hidden Hitch as it is manufactured by the same company that dropped the Hidden Hitch name. This is a Class lll hitch and it has a 2 inch receiver opening.
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  • Replacing Subaru Outback Factory Hitch with Draw-Tite 2-inch Class III Hitch Model 75673
    The Draw-Tite 2-inch Class III hitch model # 75673 will install in place of the factory 1-1/4-inch hitch without need to leave any part of the OEM hitch in place. The crosstube of the Draw-Tite will provide a similar reinforcement between the car's frame rails. You can refer to the linked video, written instructions and help article for a complete picture of the install process, tools required and tips to facilitate the install.
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  • Does Draw Tite Hitch # 75673 Fit on 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon
    The Draw Tite Hitch part # 75673 is a carry over from the 2017 Subaru Outback to the 2018 model. Draw Tite was able to get their hands on this vehicle very early to test fit and confirm the fit. I attached an installed picture for you to check out as well. Hitch installs are very basic for mechanics compared to some of the more difficult jobs they can get. What we recommend is finding a local mechanic in your area that has a good reputation and go with them.
    view full answer...
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  • Where Does Draw Tite Class III Hitch for 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon Attach
    For your 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon we have the Class III Draw Tite hitch part # 75673 which is a confirmed fit. We don't have access to the install instructions for your factory hitch but I would be surprised if this used different mounting points. I attached a picture that shows how this looks installed plus an install video for you to check out as well.
    view full answer...
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  • Trailer Hitch Recommendation for 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon for Carrying Bike Rack
    Since your plan is to carry a bike rack the Draw Tite part # 75673 is the better option as the Curt hitch requires a stabilizer strap when carrying a non-supported load like a bike rack. The Draw Tite does not require that strap to comply with the warranty of the hitch so it would be a much easier process to carry bike racks.
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  • Bumper Clearance of Draw-Tite # 75673 When Installed on 2011 Subaru Outback Wagon
    The hitch manufacturers don't collect hitch pin hole to bumper clearance distance information for given vehicles, which is a darn shame in my opinion. It would be very easy for them to record this information when they do their test fits, and would make life easier for everybody. Sigh. When we installed the Draw-Tite # 75673 on a 2011 Subaru Outback Wagon, we found the clearance distance to be 7 inches. I can't explain the differences in the 2010-2014 Outback dimensions, but perhaps there...
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  • How to Measure to Determine if a Bike Rack will Clear Rear Bumper of a 2014 Subaru Outback Wagon
    With the Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch # 75673 installed on your 2014 Subaru Outback Wagon you will have a distance of 4-1/2 inches from the center of the hitch pin hole to the furthest point out on your rear bumper. Without knowing what Hollywood Racks bike rack you have it would be hard for me to say if this would be enough clearance. What you can do is measure from the center of the pin hole on the rack out to the nearest upright portion of the rack/wheel hoop. If that distance is more than...
    view full answer...
  • Installed Height of Draw-Tite 2-Inch hitch 75673 on 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon
    When we installed Draw-Tite 2-Inch hitch # 75673 on a 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon we measured the height of the top of the receiver opening as 15-inches above ground. You can see this dimension illustrated in the linked video at the 1:40-minute mark. This height will vary based on wheel and tire size on the car, tread condition, and cargo and passenger load. The bottom of the receiver tube will be approximately 2-1/2-inches closer to the ground, about 12-1/2-inches.
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  • Does Trailer Hitch Installation Affect Vehicle Warranty on Subaru 2017 Legacy
    There is a specific law concerning addition of aftermarket products and their effects on a vehicle warranty, the Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act. This act states, in part, that unless the installation of the part caused a problem then the warranty cannot be voided. It is not uncommon for auto dealers to be a bit sketchy about aftermarket hitches since they would naturally prefer you purchase their OEM hitch, usually at a premium price compared to the aftermarket products. We have thousands...
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