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  1. Trailer Leaf Spring Suspension
  2. MORryde
  3. Equalizer Upgrade Kit
  4. Equalizers
  5. Double Eye Springs
  6. Tandem Axle
MORryde Rubber Equalizers for Tandem Axle Trailers - 33" Wheelbase - 8K

MORryde Rubber Equalizers for Tandem Axle Trailers - 33" Wheelbase - 8K

Item # MR87ZR
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Our Price: $178.28
Trailer Leaf Spring Suspension
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Shipping Weight: 13 lbs
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Upgrade your trailer's suspension system with these rubber equalizers for a smoother, more comfortable ride. The rubber insert offers up to 3" of suspension travel for greater shock absorption. Lowest Prices for the best trailer leaf spring suspension from MORryde. MORryde Rubber Equalizers for Tandem Axle Trailers - 33" Wheelbase - 8K part number MR87ZR can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 1-833-496-1390 for expert service.
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MORryde Trailer Leaf Spring Suspension - MR87ZR

  • Equalizer Upgrade Kit
  • Equalizers
  • Double Eye Springs
  • Tandem Axle
  • MORryde

Upgrade your trailer's suspension system with these rubber equalizers for a smoother, more comfortable ride. The rubber insert offers up to 3" of suspension travel for greater shock absorption.


Features:

  • Rubber equalizers replace your stock equalizers for a smoother ride
  • Rubber insert dampens road shock
    • Provides up to 3" of suspension travel
    • Reduces back-and-forth chucking
    • Requires less maintenance than equalizers with air bags
  • Mounting hardware sold separately
  • Made in the USA


Specs:

  • Application: tandem-axle trailer with 33" wheelbase and double-eye leaf springs
  • Axle capacity: 8,000 lbs
  • Quantity: 2 equalizers
  • 2-Year warranty (or 45,000 miles)


Dimensions between bushings for MORyde Equalizers


CRE2-33 MOR Ryde CRE3000 Trailer Suspension Equalizers - Tandem 33'' Wheelbase

Installation Details MR87ZR Installation instructions



Video of MORryde Rubber Equalizers for Tandem Axle Trailers - 33" Wheelbase - 8K

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for MORryde Tandem Axle Trailer Rubber Equalizers Installation

Hi there, trailer owners. Today, we're gonna be taking a look at MORryde's rubber equalizers for tandem axle trailers with a 33-inch wheelbase. And this is what our new equalizers look like when they're installed. They are gonna be larger in size than your traditional equalizer because we've got rubber dampeners inside, and it's just a heavier duty application than what your standard one is. Your standard one's just constructed with metal. This one has a very large, beefy bracketry to it with the dampeners inside.

You've got your kinda traditional portion of the equalizer down here at the bottom where it attaches to our leaf spring eyelets, using these shackles. The shackles don't come included with your equalizer. These are shackles from MORryde though, and they're also heavy duty upgraded shackles that come included with wet bolts. I do recommend using this particular shackle and wet bolt kit because it works very well with this equalizer. It's all from MORryde.

It slides together and the MORryde equalizer here does come with bronze bushings pre-installed. So it's recommended that you use wet bolts with this equalizer, so you can maintain the lubrication on those bronze bushings. With this system here, our rubber dampener there takes a lot of the load from our axles as they're moving up and down. And over time, this is going to wear out the rubber dampener inside. You are gonna get plenty of years of service out of it though, so you don't think this is gonna be like, just you gotta replace this rubber every time you take your trailer out.

If we take a closer look at our rubber dampener here, this is kinda the magic that happens with this dampener. 'Cause as our suspension moves, this dampener is gonna absorb a lot of that impact before it transfers from one axle to the other and to our trailer. Also, since this can compress, we're gonna get more movement out of our axles than with other equalizers. The dampener though, it takes all of the brunt of the load here. Over time, this is going to wear out.

Now, MORryde does say that it's normal to see cracks and little weather marks in it. Over time, those cracks do occur, but they provided a wear indicator into the equalizer, so you can tell when it's completely worn out. This lip right here is actually the wear tab. Down here on the bottom, when this face here on this blue surface, it will eventually get closer and closer to this wear tab as the rubber wears out. And once the wear tab is resting on the equalizer here, our dampener has completely worn out and we're basically back to just a standard equalizer at that point 'cause it's all metal on metal. It's gonna work just like basically a regular equalizer once all this rubber is worn out. At that point, it would be recommended to replace the equalizer, so that way, you can get your dampening properties back. But it is really cool that the way they've designed it here that as you're wear component, which is always gonna be your dampeners, as they wear out, it falls into a position where it acts as a standard equalizer, so that's really nice. You don't ever have to worry about it just completely failing on you. It's just going to do its thing until eventually it's worn out and you just gotta replace it, but it's still gonna function. No fail will ever occur. So here we can see how our MORryde suspension is gonna be a major upgrade over our factory equalizer. The factory equalizer here attaches to a leaf spring on each side. You have your front and your rear axle attaching there, and then this is a pivot point in the center. What'll happen is when you're driving, this pivots as your rear tire here or the front tire, whichever one, as it hits a bump, it can move up and then it'll kinda push down the other axle. And that'll give your axles a lot more movement because as one can move, the suspension will work together with the other to give it more free movement. So that way, your tires can move around as need be, and the suspension can travel rather than just transferring all of those impacts and stuff from the road into your trailer. This is gonna work similarly, but we've got an extra level of dampening in here. Because with this one, whenever our axle wants to move up or down and it goes to push up on this to allow movement to occur, there's a large rubber dampener inside, and that's gonna absorb a lot of that impact. With this one, we have no dampening really whatsoever. It's just straight axle in the leaf spring, leaf spring into here, and then into the other one, and then it just transfers up into the trailer. There's really no dampening. The only dampening really there is our leaf spring, which is a solid piece of metal there, it does flex, and then our tires. With this, we've got an additional absorption pad in there and you can see how thick that pad is. I mean, it's a monster. I can't move this thing at all. So you can imagine that how stiff that is in order to support your weight of your suspension, as your axles are moving up and down there. So that absorbs a lot of those impacts. What that's gonna do for you is it's gonna reduce a lot of the vibration and jarring movements that occur inside your trailer. So with the old ones here, you go over bumps, you might've had some cabinets that we're flopping open and stuff. This one here is gonna absorb a lot of those impacts and you're still gonna get some vibration in the trailer, it's not gonna completely mitigate everything, but it's gonna be drastically less than what just your standard equalizer does there. A similar equalizer would be something like Lippert Equalizer that also has a dampener in the middle. So that way, as the axles move, it'll compress that dampener to absorb those impacts. The big difference that I see between this one and the other one though is the way that the Equa-Flex works, you have your attachments on each side with the dampener in the middle and as that wears out, it seems like we could get play and things like that there in the middle. And when this one wears out, it just kinda rests up and it becomes just a standard equalizer once all the metals contacted each other. So I feel like this one's a better option as far as just an overall reliable equalizer. I also like the shape of this one a little better, it's more traditional equalizer size. The Equa-Flex is kinda bulky towards the center. I've never had it had an issue with contacting any components and getting in the way, but this one just seems like it's more compatible and just a more traditional look to it in its design. Another thing that I like about this one over the Equa-Flex is this is gonna give you up to three inches of suspension travel. So you've got more movement, and this is our travel slot down here. So you can see how we've got a little bit more freedom when our suspension kinda unloads a little bit. Now, if you're wanting to do a traditional upgrade where you're just replacing your wet bolts in your equalizers, this is probably my favorite setup as far as the different competitors out there. But if you're looking for a premium option, I would recommend Roadmaster's Comfort Ride System with slipper springs. That's gonna be a different style of suspension system. We're not gonna have our axles completely connected to one another through an equalizer. With the slipper spring setup, they'll replace your leaf springs, so that way they'll be completely independent from one another. Those also come with a, there's a shock kit available with those, so you can have dampening from shock absorbers as well. And that really just brings you into a suspension system that is much closer to like your truck or your car would ride far above and beyond any equalizer set-up. And that's gonna be your premium option for you if you're looking to go that route. This equalizer's rated to work with actual capacities up to 8,000 pounds and for tandem axle trailers with a 33-inch wheelbase with double eye leaf springs. You'll receive two equalizers in your kit, so you'll have one for each side. We'll begin our installation by jacking our trailer up to where our axles are off the ground. You can see they rotate here. You can do this by using a jack and just placing jack stands under the four corners of your trailer underneath the frame to hold it up. We'll then remove our wheels. Typical sizes are 19 and 21-millimeter, but yours may vary slightly. Ours is a 21. And we're just gonna set that aside. Next, we're gonna need a jack and some jack stands so we can support our axle, so when we take our hardware loose here, we have control over 'em so we can lift 'em up and down to make sure everything's not gonna be in a bind and we can get it all in position. Okay. So we just put a jack stand underneath one axle and then the other, we're just gonna take our jack. And we're just gonna jack it up until it just barely touches the bottom. And now, you can remove the nuts from all of our bolts where it attaches to our shackles and to the leaf spring eyelets. We're also gonna remove the center bolt for the equalizer 'cause we're gonna be swapping out that bolt and replacing the whole equalizer here. The equalizer is designed to work with a wet bolt system, so our current setup here has self-lubricating Never Fail bushings in it. We're gonna be replacing all those bushings using a wet bolt kit from MORryde. So that way, we've got the proper bolts that'll work with our equalizer. To remove these old bolts, we're gonna use a 13/16 wrench and an 11/16 socket to get these nuts off of here. Once we get all the nuts off, we can just tap these off of here. Sometimes, lifting up and lowering down your axle can help relieve some pressure on there, help these come out a little bit easier. Additionally, if you can't get your axles to move quite the way they want, sometimes they do get into a bind, you can stick a pry bar in between 'em and just kinda coerce it towards the direction that you want. So now that we've got that one off, we can remove the other ones. Once you get one loose, they get a lot easier 'cause everything's kinda free now. There's nothing that's really in a bind. So we'll just take those off of there. For these bolts, we'll be backing these out from the other side and what I like to do when driving these bolts out, I like to take one of the nuts that we had removed and thread it on there, just a few turns. That's gonna keep you from mushrooming the end. 'Cause sometimes if you bash on the end of the bolt there, you'll mushroom it and it becomes so fat that it can't fit through the hole. I place in a nut on it to prevent it from mushrooming and it also saves the thread, so if you we're planning on reusing these for anything, it would protect your bolt there as well. After you break it loose, we can just kinda pull it, work it out until our equalizer comes down. We'll repeat that now for our spring eyes here at the end to drive those bolts out. We can now repeat that for our spring eyelets to get those removed. Now, if you've already got wet bolts installed, you can just go ahead and continue on. But if you're following along with us and you're also going to replace your Never Fail, your self-lubricating plastic bushings here, then we'll need to get those driven out. And I like to get these eyes done on the end of our leaf spring on the outside, so that way we can get this in and get that bolt back in real quick. So that way, the axle's got some kinda support on it. What I like to use to drive out the old bushings, a drill bit of similar size works really well in getting these plastic ones out. But you could also just take your old bolt, this is one of the old ones, and I try to look for one that had pretty worn-out, serrated edges as well. Because when you go to drive your bushing back in, you wanna have a bolt with a head, goes all the way up to the end of the bushing there. We don't want our serrated edges to kinda dig into it. So now that we got our bolt here, we're just gonna kinda go on the side of the lip. And we're just kinda pressing that lip towards the center there. We're gonna do that at a few different spots. And then once we kinda get it bent inward, we can then usually get enough bite to drive it out at that point. It's kinda all we're looking for here, it's just to get enough bite to where our bolt will then start to drive the whole bushing out the other side. Oftentimes, you do kinda gotta go at it at an angle like that to get it to bite. Once you get that guy dragged out of there, we can just take our bushing. We're gonna slide it over our bolt. And we're just gonna drive it in just like that. If you go to put your new bushing in and the bushing just slides right in there by hand without having to drive it in, your plastic bushings had failed and caused delay to occur between the bolt and the leaf spring and had wallowed out and actually had damaged the leaf spring. In that instance, you would wanna replace your leaf spring. So now that we got that one in, I like to get the one bolt back in here on the end of this to keep it from falling down. Just kinda taking the bolt on each side, just trying to line it up. The grease fitting can be placed on either side. You can have it here on the outside or on the inside. If possible, I like to put it on the outside so that way, it's easier to grease without having to get under the trailer. But I usually assess it by looking at the size of the tire. If our tire is so large that it's gonna cover up this grease fitting, then I'll put the bolt from the other direction and crawl underneath so I can grease it 'cause I don't wanna take the tires off to grease it. These tires are small enough though on this particular vehicle that we can go on from the outside and still access the fitting to grease it. So we're just gonna slide that on through. It should come out the other side and we can place our nut on it. But I do like to take a socket and just get it started in there. So I'm putting the opening end over the fitting there, so we don't damage the fitting. And we're just tapping it just to get it started inside there. We can then use the same size socket and wrench that we used to take 'em apart to put 'em back together. It's gonna be 11/16 and a 13/16. And we just want to go until it's drawn in, so I can go just a little bit further. And sometimes, once you put a little bit of pressure on it like that, if there's still a little bit of gap, we'll switch back to the socket and hammer and we'll give it a tap again 'cause in a lot of cases, when you got a little bit of that bolt pressure on there, you can tap it and it'll drive itself the rest of the way. Looks like we're nice and flush now, so we will then continue on driving out any bushings that are the plastic self-lubricating ones, and then replacing those with the bronze ones. And then when we get our way to the other end on the other leaf, we're gonna put that bolt in over there. And then, we'll come back to the middle for our equalizer. Now that we've got both of these spring eyes on the ends fully installed, we've got our bushing swapped out here, the next thing we're gonna wanna do is to position our axles for our equalizer. So we're gonna lift up on both the axles and we want to just get the spring eye towards the center there to be about the same height as our center bolt here. It's gonna end up being slightly lower than it once we get it into position, but this will give us a little bit of leeway to work with. I went ahead and just placed the jack stand underneath the bolt there so that way, it'll hold 'em up. We'll be moving those around as need be to get everything to line up here. And now we've got those raised up, we can take our new equalizer here and we can go ahead and get that into position. You can see the bronze bushings are already pre-installed from MORryde when you get this, so you don't have to do anything with these. You'll just slide your wet bolts in and bolt 'em down. So we'll just take our equalizer. We're gonna slide it up between our hanger. We're gonna take our wet bolt here. We're gonna slide that through our equalizer, and then we'll secure it with a nut on the other side. And this is just like those spring eyes, we're gonna give this a little tap there to help seat it. And then, we're gonna run that down. So next, we're gonna be putting our shackles in place. Now these ones here, this came with our wet bolt kit, so I really highly recommend purchasing this wet bolt kit. It's from MORryde, it's kinda designed to work all with this setup here. It gives you the rest of the pieces to the puzzle really to get this installed because your old equalizers or your old shackles, I'm sorry, are gonna be of a thinner diameter than these heavy duty ones. And you can see how much heavier duty this one is here, so by upgrading everything along the way, it's just gonna ensure that our suspension is gonna last. We put on those spinner shackles that you had that we're stock. There's a good chance that they we're kind of wallowed out and they're only gonna get worse over time. Since they're so much thinner, they're gonna wear out faster than the rest of your suspension components. And the weakest link is gonna be the part that breaks, so let's take care of that while we're here. So what we're gonna do now is just slide these in. And we are gonna have to kinda manipulate our axle a little bit. I'm gonna be going up first just to get my jack stand out of the way. And then we're gonna bring it down some until it gets pretty closely lined up to where we can slide our shackle and just take a look at it right there. That's pretty close right there. And we do have some play here 'cause our equalizer's loose, but we wanna try to keep it roughly level for our suspension there. We'll then place our shackle on the other side. You have another heavy duty one that'll come with your kit there. These have to line up just perfect 'cause we want the shackle to sit on the shoulder, not the threads of the bolt. So sometimes, you gotta kinda work it back and forth just a little bit to get it to slide into place. It's a very tight machine tolerance. And we'll get those nuts on there, and then we can go ahead and get these snugged down. Again, everything's gonna be using the same size that we have for all the rest of our hardware. So we'll put our other side in now. To do that, we're gonna put our jack stand back into place underneath this axle. We'll let that one come down some. We'll move our jack to the other axle. We'll lift it up slightly to remove our other jack, and then we can let this one down until it lines up, so we can get that other shackle installed. And sometimes, you may need to give a little bit of assistance if you've got it all the way down and it still doesn't line up. And we'll just get our other shackle into place here. And sometimes, your suspension does just wanna fight you and you can't quite get it perfect. We've got it lined up, but I can't quite just slide it in easily. But you can see with this light tap to the hammer, it's going right in there. We can then go back and torque all of our bolts to the specifications outlined in our instructions. Next, we can just grease 'em up. If you need a grease gun, you can get one here at etrailer. We've also got cartridges of grease available here. We're just using a multi-purpose grease. We're using marine grease on this one just due to the customer indicating that he is in kind of a high-moisture situation a lot so that's just gonna help extend the life of the grease that's inside of here. But regular bearing grease also works very well, just regular old chassis grease. That's what we're looking for there is our grease to pop out on the other side. We know we've got it all the way through and we're just gonna repeat that on all the remaining fittings. We can now go ahead and get our tires re-installed at this point, and then we wanna make sure we tighten and torque our lug nuts to the manufacturer's specification. More often than not, you gotta get it back on the ground before you're able to torque it. Another quick thing I wanted to point out is our equalizer here, when we had installed everything and we had our jack stands under it, the shackles we're above the equalizer, kind of angled up at about this point on each side. When you gotta take your jack stands out to lower your vehicle back down, in most cases, the axles are gonna wanna flip and they're gonna pop on you kinda and you gotta take those out of there and take all the weight off. When you get this back on the ground, we'll place our jack back underneath the axles, and we're gonna re-jack those up. But in using the weight of the trailer, you ensure that they stay in their correct position. So now we're coming down to flip our axles. We've got the other side replaced here, and what we're doing is when we lower the trailer down, I've got a jack underneath the axle there, and I lift it up enough just to get this one up. When we come down, we can then kinda lower the jack slowly to keep this one up. And then with this one kind of in a straight position here, it makes it a lot easier to get under there and pop this one up at that time. So we'll get a little bit of pressure down and then we can pop the other one up afterwards. So we came down and as we we're lowering it down, we kept our jack just barely underneath that axle there, and we kinda let a little pressure off. And then, we can move our jack to the other axle now. We got that one touching and we're just gonna lift it up until those straighten themselves out. They should both be positioned on top of the equalizer now. The main trick when you're doing this really is just that first setup when you're bringing your trailer down, making sure that one of your axles is on top of the other. At that point, bringing the other one up, it kinda falls right into position as you're lowering it down and putting your axles up with your jack. And that completes our look at MORryde's rubber equalizers for tandem axles with a 33-inch wheelbase..


Customer Reviews

MORryde Rubber Equalizers for Tandem Axle Trailers - 33" Wheelbase - 8K - MR87ZR

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (97 Customer Reviews)

Upgrade your trailer's suspension system with these rubber equalizers for a smoother, more comfortable ride. The rubber insert offers up to 3" of suspension travel for greater shock absorption.

by:

Was not shipped and was on back order. Supply chain issues beyond etrailers control, and etrailer staff was transparent and communicated well about the status and was prompt with follow up and crediting my account.




by:

Probly a good product some how would not fit pretty sure I went over this with sales person but my trailer is 30 in wheel base would not work found out after installed i have them for sale


Comments
Its a shame that this will not fit your application. I have sent this over to our customer service department for them to better assist you.
-- Etrailer Expert Katrina B - 08/12/2022


by:

I had the Morryde equalizer installed & my mpg improved from 10 mpg to 14 mpg.




by:

5 stars for ease of order and delivery of the MORyde3000 and shackles. I plan on installing them in a week or so. Looking forward to taking them out for a ride.




by:

Awesome customer service when I called with questions about the shipping of my order.




by:

Good product. Heavy duty. Have not towed the trailer yet so can not compare to original equipment.




by:

10 times more rugged than what trailer was originally equipt with at a similar price to stock equalizers.




by:

Install
- took 4 hours to install the
first side and under an hour for the other. Most of that was due to a stripped nut on my trailers suspension.
- I used two floor Jack's and two sets of jack stands to lift the trailer and axles for the install.
- I would not consider myself a mechanic, I change my own oil but pay someone else for all other work. If you are reasonably handy you can install this yourself.

Performance
- noticed a difference right away. Trailer drives straighter, and is overall a bit smoother.

I put a lot of miles on my trailer, so this is a must for anyone who takes long trips.




by:

E-Trailer has always been reliable and delivers quickly. I highly recommend that people go to Etrailer.com.




by:

cannot go wrong putting these on a travel trailer. Pulls ohhhhh so nice!!!!!!




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Very well made parts




by:

It was good to hear that they were shipping sooner than expected as we are going on vacation the first week of August. This gives me time to get them installed. They look like good quality parts. Thanks again for all that you did.




by:

Actually just received. Since this is early December they won’t be installed for a few weeks. Hoping to use them shortly after.




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DELIVERED VERY FAST-RIGHT ON TIME




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great upgrade and easy to install




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Show More Reviews

See what our Experts say about this MORryde Trailer Leaf Spring Suspension



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    The MORryde CRE3000 Rubber Equalizers are a great upgraded equalizer option for any trailer. They are cushioned so they will do a great job of absorbing road shock and providing a smoother ride. In order to choose the correct ones you'll need to measure your axle spread (on center). If you have 33" then use part # MR87ZR but if you have 35" then use part # MR27ZR.
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  • Comparing MORryde CRE3000 and SRE4000 Rubber Equalizers
    The MORryde CRE3000 Rubber Equalizers like part # MR87ZR and MORryde SRE4000 Rubber Equalizers like part # MR97ZR are both great options. That said, the SRE4000 has more suspension travel (4" Vs. 3"), greater road shock absorption, a longer warranty (3 Yrs. Vs. 2 Yrs.), and a reinforced crossmember for increased rigidity. If you are looking for the best option then go with the SRE4000 but the CRE3000 works great as an upgrade as well for a bit less cost.
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  • Upgrading To MORryde CRE3000 Rubber Equalizers On a 2003 Fleetwood Wilderness 5TH Wheel Camper
    The MORryde Rubber Equalizers # MR87ZR are most likely the correct ones for your 2003 Fleetwood Wilderness. The important part to measure is the equalizer itself. The MORryde is 6-1/2" on center from the front shackle bolt to the center of the rear shackle bolt. The height is 3-1/8" from the equalizer mounting bolt to the center line of the shackle bolts. I recommend installing the MORryde Suspension Upgrade Kit for Tandem Axle Trailers # MR46ZR when you replace your equalizers. The wet...
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  • Should MORryde Equalizer Kit MR87ZR Or MR27ZR Be Used With 35" Axle Spacing?
    As your axles measure 35" apart from center to center but the frame hanger spread (FHS) measured 58-3/4", you did go the correct way. The axle spacing is definitely important, but the FHS is more so. Just be aware that you axle spacing may change a little due to the MORryde Rubber Equalizers # MR87ZR being shorter than the # MR27ZR (quick diagram included), but this will be perfectly fine.
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  • MORryde Equalizer Upgrade for 2019 Jayco 321RLTS 5th wheel
    Thanks for the pictures! If you're getting that loud of noise out of your 2019 Jayco Eagle Fifth Wheel's equalizers then it is time to replace them. Greasing them won't fix that loud clunking noise. If your axles are 35" on center then you are going to want a bigger equalizer. I recommend replacing your old equalizers with the MORryde Shock Absorbing Suspension Equalizers for Tandem Axle Trailers w/ 35" Wheelbase - 8K item # MR27ZR. These will give you up to 3" of up-and-down travel that...
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  • Correct MORryde Rubber Equalizers for a 2015 Forest River XLR Hyperlite 29HFS
    The correct MORryde Rubber Equalizers for a 2015 Forest River XLR HyperLite 29HFS are the CRE3000's part # MR87ZR which you can add upgraded shackle straps and wet bolts to using the MORryde Suspension Upgrade Kit for Tandem Axle Trailers part # MR46ZR. These will be a great replacement for the Equa-Flex Cushioned Equalizers that are currently installed.
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  • MORryde Wet Bolt Kit For a 2018 Jayco Eagle HT Fifth Wheel Camper With MORryde CRE3000 Equalizers
    The MORryde Suspension Upgrade Kit # MR46ZR is the kit you need for the MORryde Rubber Equalizers # MR87ZR under your 2018 Jayco Eagle HT 29.5BHOK 5Th wheel camper. These have the same 2-1/4" shackle lengths and include all the wet bolts, nuts, shackles, and bronze bushings you may need for your Jayco.
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  • How Do I Measure Axle Spread for Upgrading The Trailer Equalizers?
    Yes, axle spread and wheel base by definition are the same measurements. You will measure from the center of one axle to the center of the 2nd axle to determine what you axle spread is. This may be difficult as some wheels and covers will make this harder to determine. You can also measure from common points in reference to the axle. Such as the front of the front axle tube to front of the 2nd axle tube or front of front tire to front of rear tire. If you do that you will want to be sure...
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  • Can X-Factor Crossmember Be Added to MORryde CRE3000 Shock Absorbing Equalizers
    Yes, we do offer the MORryde X-Factor Crossmember part # MR49ZR which is designed for the MORryde Shock Absorbing Suspension Equalizers part # MR87ZR and part # MR27ZR.
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  • How To Confirm Fit of MORryde CRE Shock Absorbing Suspension Equalizers for Tandem Axle Trailers
    In order to confirm fit of the MORryde Shock Absorbing Suspension Equalizers for Tandem Axle Trailers you'll simply measure the axle spread on center. If the axles measure 33" apart then use part # MR87ZR but if they are 35" apart then use part # MR27ZR. If you want to add shackle straps and wet bolts, part # MR76ZR is for 3-1/8" long and part # MR46ZR is for 2-1/4" long. If you can inform of which LRE system you have I would be glad to inform of which CRE replaces this.
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  • Correct MORryde CRE3000 Equalizers and Wet Bolt Kit for Any Tandem Axle 5th Wheel Trailer
    There are two different MORryde CRE3000 Shock Absorbing Suspension Equalizers for tandem axle trailers, part # MR87ZR for a 33" wheelbase or part # MR27ZR for a 35" wheelbase. There are also two different MORryde Suspension Upgrade Kits for tandem axle trailers, part # MR46ZR for 2-1/4" or part # MR76ZR for 3-1/8" (bolt center to bolt center). The parts you need are right here but you must measure first. Unfortunately, there is no database to reference for this info like their is for...
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  • Recommended Equalizer and Shackle Kit To Upgrade A 2011 Eclipse Milan 26RLS With 33" Axle Spacing
    There can be a few different widths and eye hole diameters depending on the type of spring, especially slipper springs, but generally, all double eye springs for trailers will measure 1-3/4" wide and use 9/16" diameter eye hole. With that said, lets get you set up with a kit. As you mentioned having 33" of axle spacing, I recommend going with the MORryde Rubber Equalizers # MR87ZR to start with. I have been pretty impressed with the MORryde products and have zero complaints or issues with...
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  • How to Improve Ride of Trailer With Tandem 8k Axles & MORryde CRE3000 Rubber Equalizers
    We can get you a more comfortable ride, though the Road Armor equalizers truthfully won't do the job as an upgrade over the CRE3000 MORryde Rubber Equalizers like # MR87ZR or # MR27ZR, they would just be replacing one upgraded equalizer with another to little effect. Based on the fact you have these equalizers I'm going to assume you do have tandem, 8,000 lb axles, and the best way to significantly improve your ride is with a shock kit from Roadmaster: - Roadmaster Comfort Ride Shock...
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  • Recommended Equalizer Upgrade For 6 Inch Equalizer EQ356 on Tandem Axle Trailer
    First, thank you for that detailed info it was very helpful, and there is a really nice upgrade for your Cardinal 362BH that has the Curved Equalizer # TREQ356. The best upgrade for your rig is going to be a combination of rubber equalizers and heavy-duty mounting hardware from MORryde: - MORryde Rubber Equalizers for Tandem Axle Trailers # MR87ZR - MORryde Suspension Upgrade Kit for Tandem Axle Trailers - 3-1/8" Long Shackle Straps # MR76ZR The reason to go with the longer shackle...
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Info for this part was:

Employee Mike L
Expert Research:
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Employee Jameson C
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Jameson C
Employee Lindsey S
Edited by:
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Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
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Video Edited:
Jacob T
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Updated by:
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