LED Trailer Clearance or Side Marker Light with Chrome Bezel - 2 Diodes - Amber Lens

Video Transcript for LED Trailer Clearance or Side Marker Light with Chrome Bezel Spec Review

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take a look at, and show you how to install, the Command LED clearance, or side marker, light with chrome bezel offering two diodes and a red lens, part number is 328-003-19R. Here you can see our light installed. I really like the chrome bezel the way it comes around there. I think it gives the light a nice look. We've got our two attachment points there. Really, a straightforward easy light to install.

You're going to have two wires, one for ground, one for power. Now, you'll notice this is an LED light. I really like the idea of the newer LED lights that we see going on a lot of trucks and trailers.Basically, they're going to last a lot longer. You're not going to have to worry about those filaments breaking and having to go through the bulb changes. Also, they don't use as much energy, so we're not drawing as much power from the vehicle.

And, overall, nice and clean and bright light. You'll be able to see it from a long way and it can really update the look of a truck or trailer.All of those same things can be said for the amber light. The amber light should be in front of your tire on your trailer or, of course, on the front of your trailer for clearance lights. There's lots of little different uses for the amber light. Here, we're doing it on the front corner of our flatbed.

Now, the red lens and amber lens are going to be sold separately, of course. Really, we like to replace them in pairs, so you can keep the look of it the same. Especially if you're going from an incandescent light to an LED, there can be a big difference in their looks.Now, to give you an idea on dimensions. It's going to be three-quarters of inch from the front edge of the light to the back. From the very bottom of our bezel to the top, we're looking at about an inch and thirteen-sixteenths.

It will stick up, off our mounting surface, by about seven-eights of an inch. Also, the screw holes for our attachment points, these are going to be on one and seven-eighths inch centers.Now, we're going to take our light. We want our wires to go through our mounting surface, there. You see, we've got a couple holes drilled out there. Now, these lights are going to come with sheet metal screws. I think in a lot of applications those are going to work out well, but, for one, our holes are a little bit too big for these to work. You can see they just pass through. But, also, going through a piece of steel this thick, you're going to have a challenge with these. So something else we found that work, little pan-head screws, or little pan-head bolts. These are a number six. You see, they fit in there really nicely. We're using stainless steel just to eliminate any issues with rusting and that. I'm going to place those through. On the backside we're going to put on a flat washer. We're going to put on a lock washer. And we're going to put on a nut.Now, on one of your two bolts you want to place on the ring terminal for your ground. We'll place it right over and we'll put on our washers. Again, we're using a flat washer and a lock washer. We can place on the nut. Do the same for the other side, there. We're just going to use our Phillips to get that tightened down. All right, nice and secure. Last thing we'll need to hook up is our power lead. That's going to go to our running light wire, right there. We'll just tie that in, right there. We'll trim our running light wire. Let's strip both of these back. Now we're going to take the ends of those and we're going to twist these together. Now, this is going to be in lieu of a quick splice connector. We're just going to use a butt connector to make a slice. The quick splices seem to damage the wire. It just doesn't give us the best results, so we're going to use part number D-W-0-5-7-4-4. That's a heat shrink butt connector. They do a great job of preventing any moisture or dirt from getting in there, which eventually causes corrosion and then failure.Now, the other side, we're just going to continue our running light forward for any other lights we might have. Now, you see I've stripped that one back about twice as far as normal. I'm going to double that over and that will go in the other side of our connector, there. Then we'll be able to crimp it down. We'll use our heat source to shrink this down. You can use a heat gun, you can use a mini-torch, or generally I just use a lighter. And we just want to gently heat this up and we'll see it start to shrink. It clears too, or turns sort of clear, then eventually that's going to shrink down. It's going to grab a hold of that wire and the wire looks like it gets bigger. The key is here not to over heat these. You can see it looks like that wire is magnified. We've got a little bit of that clear gel coming out of the end, means we've got it done properly.You want to use an amber lens on our truck. The installation process is going to be exactly the same though. Now, to test out our installation, let's just turn on the running lights. As you can see, they come on nice and bright. We'll do the same for our amber light up front. All right, everything is working properly.That will complete our installation of the Command LED clearance, or side marker, light.