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Hopkins Active Tail Light Converter with Install Kit

Hopkins Active Tail Light Converter with Install Kit

Item # 46255
Retail:$103.23
Our Price: $70.23
You Save: 32%
Trailer Wiring

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Shipping Weight: 1.06 lbs
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46255 - 4 Flat Hopkins Trailer Wiring
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These units completely isolate the tow vehicle from trailer malfunctions. Power is taken directly from the battery for isolation and brighter trailer tail lights. Great Prices for the best trailer wiring from Hopkins. Hopkins Active Tail Light Converter with Install Kit part number 46255 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 1-800-940-8924 for expert service.
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  • Reviews (68)
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  • Videos (4)
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Hopkins Trailer Wiring - 46255

  • Trailer Connectors
  • Vehicle End Connector
  • 4 Flat
  • Plug and Lead
  • Hopkins

These units completely isolate the tow vehicle from trailer malfunctions. Power is taken directly from the battery for isolation and brighter trailer tail lights.


Features:

  • 5 Amp capacity
  • Install kit Includes:
    • 14-Gauge power lead wire
    • Quick-splice connectors
    • Fuse holder and fuse
    • Self-tapping screw
    • Zip-ties
    • Terminal grease


46255 Hopkins Active Tail Light Converter with Install Kit

Installation Details 46255 Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles



California residents: click here


Video of Hopkins Active Tail Light Converter with Install Kit

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Hopkins Tailight Converter Kit Installation - 2010 Land Rover Range Rover Sport

Hi, I'm Shane with etrailer.com. Today I'm going to walk through how to install the Hopkins Active Taillight Converter Kit on your 2010 Land Rover/Range Rover Sport. Adding wiring to your vehicle is going to allow you to pull a trailer. Maybe you have a cargo carrier that when you add the cargo on it, it covers your taillights. This is going to allow you to get those wire functions transferred back to either that cargo carrier or the trailer, so you're legal and safe when you're pulling it.This is going to give us all of our proper lighting functions, brake signals, turn signals and our running lights. You can see here, it's going to mount right here at the back of the vehicle.

It's going to have a nice dust cap to help give us a little bit of protection when we're not using the plug. One thing I will mention, is this bracket right here does not come with the wiring harness. This is the only one that is going to fit the Hopkins Taillight Converter Kit.This is the Hopkins foldover plug holder. You can find it here at etrailer.com. Another bracket I will suggest is going to be this short bracket.

You can see how we have it mounted here, right to the bottom of our hitch. That gives our wiring a more permanent mounting location. You can also find those here at etrailer.com.Another thing that's nice about this wiring harness is the converter box. Converter box is going to protect your factory wiring on the vehicle from a wiring issue that may be on the trailer. So if there's a back feed from the wiring on the trailer, that box is going to stop it from going to the factory wiring causing any damage.As far as the installation on this, pretty simple and straightforward.

It's going to attach directly to factory wiring behind each taillight. Hardest part about the installation is getting your inaudible 00:01:43 wire up to the front of the vehicle to the battery. You just want to make sure when running that, you stay away from anything hot or moving and take your time with it.Now that we've gone over some of the features, let's go ahead and walk you through how to get it installed. To start our installation, we need to remove our taillights. We're going to have two Phillips head screws here, and then you're going to take a plastic trim panel tool.

We're going to put it right on the side and then pop the light out. We're going to do the same thing with both lights.And you're going to have to work it a little bit to get the tabs to pop in there. These two tabs go right in those two holes. We're going to pull it out. This plug right here, we're going to disconnect. Push on this tab right here in the back and slide it out and you'll set your light aside.Now what we're going to do is we're going to test our functions. It's a good idea to have a little piece of paper to mark the color of the wires when you determine what they are. Right now we're doing the left turn signal. So it looks like our green with our red stripe is going to be our left turn signal. We're going to do that same process for our brake signal and our running light signal.So what I have determined, that our left turn signal is going to be green with the red stripe. Our left brake light signal is going to be green with the purple stripe. And our running light signal is going to be the red with the black stripe. This is going to be on the driver's side only. Passenger side, the colors are going to be a little bit different.Our converter box on the back of it, it's going to tell you what wires do what functions. White wire is going to be our ground. These three wires are red, yellow, and brown, that are right next to each other, are going to run up to our driver's side taillight wiring. Green wire, we're going to route across to our passenger side. Red wire, we're going to attach to the red wire that comes in our kit and take it up to the battery.We need to do this from underneath the vehicle. Right here there's a little hole that we can bring these three wires up and attach them to the wiring. We want to make sure that the box is at least six to eight inches away from the taillight assembly.Now in the instructions they tell you not to cut or splice a wire. So what we're going to do is we're going to use the quick connects that come in the kit. Connect them on to each one of these wires. Left turn is going to be our yellow wire. It's going to go on the green with the red stripe. We'll slide it into the end until it stops, like that. Take a pair of pliers, press that in and we'll fold the lid over.We're going to do the same thing with the other two. Brown is going to be our running light signal. It's going to be our red with the black. And then our green with the purple is going to be our stop. What I'm going to do, is I'm actually going to tape over each one of these connections. Just help to protect them a little bit. Once we get it all bundled up, we can go ahead and reinstall our taillight.Now what I'm going to do, is I'm going to go underneath the vehicle, get my converter box mounted somewhere, mount my ground wire, run my green wire across and attach it to the turn signal on my passenger's side. Let me get that done real quick and I'll show you I did it.There's not really a good place to mount the box to any factory wiring because there's nothing up here. So what I did, is I put some two sided tape and stuck it right on top of the bumper beam, making sure it was far enough away from my exhaust.I took my green wire, ran it across the top of my bumper beam, straight over to the passenger side. My red wire, my other red wire, it has a butt connector on it, but I would suggest taking that butt connector off and putting a heat shrink butt connector on it. They don't come with the kit, but you can find them here at etrailer.com. Because it's living outside of the vehicle, that heat treat butt connector will help protect that connection from corrosion.I'll run my four pole wire right through here and it came out here. I'm going to leave this hang like this for just a minute. Now let's go ahead and walk you through how I ran my power wire up to the front of the vehicle. I came out above my heat shield, went over top of my axle, over the top of all of my bars here. This box, what I did, is I pushed it up on the top of it, ran it through this bracket and above this tank all the way up to here.And what I'm going to do, is I'm actually going to zip tie it right to this factory wiring to keep it away from my front airbag and my CV axle. Took an airline tube, if you don't have an airline tube, you cab use just a wire hanger if you have one and I pushed it straight up into the engine compartment. My ground wire that's come off my converter box, as you saw, there's not really any good place to mount it down there. It needs to be mounted to metal. Everything down there was hard to get to.So what I did, was I took my taillight back out and I mounted it right here, so it's sitting behind the taillight. Green wire can be my turn signal, my right turn signal. It attaches to the green with the white stripe on our passenger side. And we'll go ahead and take this up and get our taillights put back in.Now the engine compartment in this vehicle is very packed full. Our wire came up right through here. I ran it underneath this air box right here. Pulled this tube down, put my wire up and stuck the tube back up in there and our battery's on the passenger side. You're going to have a panel. It's going to look like this and it's your battery cover. Pop that panel off. I took my wire, tucked it right back in this edge, ran it around the back of my battery.You're going to strip back the end of the wire, your fuse holder, pull the fuse out if it's in. This is going to come with a heat shrink butt connector on it. Go ahead and put it on the wire, crimp it down, and then take your heat source and shrink it up. I suggest using a heat gun over a lighter because a lighter is a direct flame. If you don't have a heat gun, you can find these here at etrailer.com.10 millimeter socket, remove this nut here or bolt here. Attach your wire, re-install the bolt. We'll tighten it into place, and then once you have this connected, you can reinstall your fuse.Now we'll test our wiring. Brakes, left turn, right turn, running lights. Your wiring's going to come with a cover for your plug that you can second it as a holder when you're not using your wiring, if your hitch does not have a mining bracket. So what I'm going to do is to get my bracket mounted, I'm going to go ahead and feed my wiring through it like this. You're going to have a clamp right over top of the hitch. Then we'll tighten our clamp into place.We can cut off our excess. You're going to take your four pole end with your cover, you're going to set it in like that. We're going to close this. Now it's going to come with self tapping screws, however, I'm going to switch them out with actual bolts. You just want to make sure when you do that, the bolts are long enough to go all the way through here and through this bracket.I would suggest putting in a washer on the top side here so that your bolt doesn't pull down through the bracket. I'm going to put nylon lock nuts on the bottom. I will also suggest the bolts that you put in, because it's going to be outside, using stainless steel. That way it keeps them from corroding and you won't have to, potentially, cut the bolt somewhere if you're ever wanting to take it off.Take a 3/8ths and a 10 millimeter, that's what I'm using for these bolts. Tighten them into place. And then we'll take the rest of our wiring, I'm going to bundle it up and zip tie it right up behind the hitch here. Once you've got everything attached, you've tested it out, you know it's working correctly, you're ready to hit the road.Again, I'm Shane with etrailer.com. That's going to do it for a look at installation on the Hopkins Active Taillight Converter Kit on our 2010 Land Rover/Range Rover Sport.

Customer Satisfaction Score:


Customer Reviews

Hopkins Active Tail Light Converter with Install Kit - 46255

Average Customer Rating:  4.6 out of 5 stars   (68 Customer Reviews)

These units completely isolate the tow vehicle from trailer malfunctions. Power is taken directly from the battery for isolation and brighter trailer tail lights.

by:
1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee

I received this product the other day and went to work installing it on my 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. This was done outdoors on a sunny 90 plus degree day on [the driveway].

Prior to buying I had read the online instructions and, more importantly, watched an installation video. The video was a huge help and the kit was very easy to install. The snap splice connectors work like a charm. I used extra zip ties I had to secure the power line in place as I routed it down the passenger side of the Jeep. Hook up to the battery terminal was easy.

I did not have a circuit tester to check the individual wires to ID their function but since their colors exactly matched the video, I decided to take my chances. It worked out great.

Installation of the power wire would be easier on a lift but I don’t have one installed in my driveway so it entailed crawling under the



by:
2011 Lincoln Town Car

Hello Carol,
I installed it as usual
but it did the same thing than a previous one. The only light that worked were the tail lights. Tested all incoming wires - were all connected. Fortunately I still had one that I got from you a couple of years ago which worked fine. Please be so kind and send a return label. Thank you very much for all the great service I received from you over the years.



by:
2003 Toyota Avalon

The product is as described. I installed this on a 2003 Toyota Avalon. I took the time to research the factory wire colors, and I was reasonably successful.

There are two wires into each blinker light housing. A green and yellow wire and a black and white wire.

The black and white wire is the emergency flasher. The green and yellow wire is the blinker. Resist the urge to overthink it, both blinkers are green and yellow wires.

I chose to wire everything to the drivers side of the vehicle. The reasoning was that there was sufficient power wire (RED) from the isolator to go from the drivers side rear blinker to the battery in the forward end of the engine compartment. There is also sufficient wire (GREEN) for the passenger side blinker. I routed everything through the factory wire chases by removing the trim pieces (no tools required) and removing the back seat. You can easily follow the factory wires. Since I mounted the isolator inside the left blinker trim panel, all the other wires were sufficient to connect the brake and driving lights. I hooked up the ground (WHITE) to a bolt that holds the rear lamp assembly in place. A 10mm nut was readily accessible for this.

I searched high and low for a location to run the power wire through the firewall. There is no factory spare that I could find. That being said, I decided the best location to drill a small hole was near the accelerator cable. This area provided plenty of clearance to avoid any other component.

I used some rubber insulation material and a little bit of plastic as a chafe guard in the hole. Zip ties competed the job, and it looks like a factory installation.

I tested the lights by hooking up to a trailer with a 4 pin flat connector. Everything worked perfectly.

This is a good product, although my interior installation method is far superior to running the power wire under the body, along the frame rails, next to brake lines, etc.

Take your time and run the wiring where it belongs, inside the vehicle.

Incidentally, I let the connection pigtail for the trailer to stay inside the trunk until I need it, then it can drape across the weatherstripping and outside the trunk with the lid closed. No pinch. There is sufficient wire to do this easily.



by:
2004 Nissan Altima

Converter worked fine was not easy to install to existing wiring. Running the battery lead was very time consuming .



by:

If you need help with finding a trailer hitch, look no further. I have a Volvo and was looking for a trailer hitch. I contacted the dealership and was put on hold for 30 minutes. They said that they would call me back, never did. I then called etrailer within 5 minutes my order was placed. I received my hitch 2 days later.This is a no nonsense business, that believes in the customer. I highly recommend this company and will use it for future use.



by:
BMW

Very easy install in my 2011 BMW with no issues. Was worried of having bulb faults with a European car but was perfect!



by:
2007 Mazda 3

Great product. If you don't have a friend to help you align the hitch during installation, a floor jack is very helpful. When using the fishwire for the first time just be patient, it takes a little time to get the hang of it. Also, I ran the harness through the car underneath the carpet and up through the side kick panel to the battery rather than underneath the car. Mazda 3s are low enough already to worry about a wire harness coming down underneath the car. Just spend some extra time and do it right.

Jacob

3/24/2019

Great. Still works just fine.



by:
2004 Buick LeSabre

I ordered a ball, ball mount, Curt Hitch and Hopkins Converter kit for the lights. My order was potentially delayed due to the ball I ordered not being in stock. It arrived within the shipping time quoted. Without the required hitch pin to hold the ball mount to the hitch.

The Curt hitch bolted right up. And looks fine.

The Hopkins converter kit is a complete joke. The website said it was for my vehicle, which it is.. The only problem is, the wiring connections are a joke when a simple adapter could be used to do all of the tail light connections. (Running lights, brake lights, right and left turn signal are all wired to a simple connector on the drive4rs side. 3M connectors make me nervous! They make adapter plugs for many for other vehicles, never saw this option offered by Etrailer. I hope to receive the hitchpin by the middle of this week.

If we are required to use a 3M connector, you should at least supply the silicone dialectric grease to complete the job.

Etrailer Expert

Heather A.

8/20/2018

The hopkins wiring harness part # 46255 is a universal wiring kit. Currently, there is not a plug and play option for a 2004 Buick LeSabre. This kit does include a small packet of dielectric grease but if you need more I recommend part # 11755 2 oz dielectric grease.



by:
2004 Buick LeSabre

The only thing that would have made installation easier would have been if the tail light harness instructions would indicate for the car model which color car tail light wires to connect to on each side. Took some experimentation to figure it out.



by:

It worked great! It was exactly what I needed



by:
2004 Honda Civic

Before installing Hopkins Active Taillight Converter kit 46255 I didn't have any trailer stop lights. After installation all trailer lights worked perfect. S.L.

Sidney L.

10/1/2014

Works perfect. Great product.



by:

This piece of junk worked when installed, but only briefly. I rarely use a trailer but need the lights to work reliably when I do. Probably about the third or fourth short trip the internal electronics fried themselves and the switching inside the unit failed, leaving one light on all the time and the other not working at all. This was using the most basic configuration of trailer lights - just two #1157 bulbs, that's it. No possibility of overloading the converter, which was located inside the hatchback area of the tow vehicle, hardly ever used, and not out in the weather. The failure occurred just at about 7 months of ownership, etrailer refused to stand behind the obviously defective product since the warranty is only 6 months. Really, for automotive use, a product should last years. Two thumbs down.



by:
2004 Buick LeSabre

I bought this for a 2004 Buick Lesabre limited, so I could pull small trailers and someday a small boat. It's somewhat easy to install. Once I figured out the purple wire in the car is for the tail light on the converter box, it was all good. Anyway, it does what it's supposed to, which is amplify the power to the trailer lights, and it does it very well. This product will ensure your vehicle's electrical system will be safe under the extra load of the trailer lights. The only issue I had was figuring out where to mount the converter box, and had to get creative. I think using a strong adhesive to stick it to the inside wall of the trunk would be the best option.



by:
2009 BMW 3 Series

Installed on a 2009 328i BMW, took more work to get interior panels off/on in trunk area than the wiring. I had the electrical wiring diagrams for the car which really helped.

Russellb

6/27/2017

Just went camping hooked up trailer and all lights worked as they should great product.



by:
2011 Jeep Liberty

I ordered this product even though I didn't need it to make the trailer lights work properly. I bout it in this case to isolate the vehicle and trailer lighting system from each other. With computers controlling everything on modern vehicles a short in trailer wiring could cause the vehicle to stop running when it sees a problem. I did need this same item on out Jeep Liberty to make the brake and turn signals work.
etrailer is my go to place for towing items. Good prices and fast shipping. Good customer service too. A cheap price is no good without good customer service.



by:

One year in and the wiring harness is still working great. I had to reset the in-line fuse once because the trailer lights were not functioning, but that was a 30 second fix. Pop out the fuse, pop it back in. Done.



by:

As usual my experience was nothing short of amazing! I need to replace my trailer wiring harness on my ‘05 ML500. Ashley answered my call, heard & understood what I need along with any extra items. She even looked up my similar purchase from 3yrs ago to be sure we had the correct items for My vehicle! Fantastic Friendly & fast service! We had the order placed in less than 5 min & had a confirmation & notice of order complete & ready to ship within 2hrs! Shipped the next day & I received the goods on wed.!
THANK YOU ASHLEY!! And THANK YOU ETRAILER once again for fantastic service!



by:

Thank you for following up with me. I would first like to say your customer service is first rate. The hitch and wiring harness are great too. Install was fairly easy and instructions good. The only minor problem I have is that the trailer ball I purchased and used on the trailer began to rust last fall. Probably my own fault for going through the car wash too many times with the hitch in. Anyway, thanks again for the follow up.



by:

Easy to install. After that it kept blowing fuses left and right. It was rated for the trailers I was pulling so i was quite disappointed. Soon after the wires overheated and started creating smoke inside the vehicle so I removed and replaced with a different brand.



by:
2007 Ford Crown Victoria

The wire on the B+ wire to the battery was about 3' too short necessitating a trip to the auto store for a $7 roll of new wire. Other than that, wiring package was easy to install. I would think the wire would be too short for most installations and for the price of the kit, they need to make longer.



by:

The unit went on reasonably easily except for running the power wire up to the battery. That part was a pain, but oh well. I did encase the power wire in plastic loom and then rubber hose once I got to the engine compartment for protection of the wire just to be safe.



by:

Very nice wiring harness. The instructions were detailed and installation was easy!



by:

Good directionstuff to be helpful. The installation to be easy. Took me about 1 hour to complete and working flawless when done.

Dan R.

5/25/2016

Works great. No issues



by:
2000 Lexus RX 300

George with etrailer has always had great products good communication and super support. I while back I ordered a part on Saturday afternoon and it was on our door step on Monday. Still remember it and appreciate it as it minimized our issue.

All the best,



by:

Installation went well. I would give it a 4 on the difficulty scale. Like to see more wire ties and a little larger.


25
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    Sounds like the left turn signal circuit has shorted out to the right turn circuit and is not making its way to the left light assembly at all. Basically you just will need to go over all of the wiring and make sure that each wire is connected to the correct circuits starting with the turn signal circuits. The connections will need to be clean and secure without any exposed wire.
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  • Will the Hopkins Active Taillight Converter Work on a 2012 Chevy Malibu LTZ
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  • Which Hopkins Trailer Wiring Kit Fits 2000 Honda Civic
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    The Hopkins Active Tail Light Converter with Install Kit part # 46255 will fit a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee made after or before March 1994 so this is what I recommend. If you did want to find the date manufactured and the door sticker was not present you'd need to reach out to the manufacturer.
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  • Trailer Wiring Harness Recommendation for a 1999 Lexus RX300
    For trailer wiring on your 1999 Lexus RX300 you would want the Hopkins # 46255. This is a hardwire kit that will require you to test the different wires going to your tail light wiring with the included circuit tester to complete the install. I attached installation instructions for this product for you to check out also. The T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness # 118255 that you referenced is not confirmed to fit your vehicle so I would not recommend it for you.
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  • Trailer Wiring Recommendation for a 2013 Chevy Express Van
    What I would recommend you get is a Curt Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring # 55540. This wiring kit plugs inline with the tail lights of your vehicle and will activate the trailer lights of your small trailer. Curt has determined that you do not necessarily need a powered unit like the Hopkins Converters # 46255 or # 46365 and since your trailer only has two lights on it I think the # 55540 would work well for you. The main difference between the # 46255 and the # 46365 is that the # 46365 can...
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  • Recommended Trailer Wiring Harness For 1997 Volkswagen Eurovan
    The Hopkins trailer wiring that is confirmed as a fit for your 1997 Eurovan is part # 46255. This is a hardwire installation. When installing this on your van I recommend using a circuit tester like part # 3808 so you can make sure you test the wires by function. The # 37185 will work with the # 46255 4-way trailer harness. The # 37185 has additional wires that are used for brakes, auxiliary power, and accessory wiring. I have attached a photo of the # 37185 with the wires labeled you...
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  • Trailer Plug Wiring For 2007 Freightliner M2 106 Cargo Truck
    For your 2007 Freightliner M2 truck, there is not a plug-in trailer wiring harness available. I would recommend the Hopkins Active Taillight Converter, part # 46255. This system is designed to splice into the existing wiring on your truck and provide a 4-way connector at the rear of your truck. It also isolates and protects the tow vehicle from trailer electrical malfunctions. I would recommend a circuit tester like part # PTW2993, to test the wiring on your truck. You want to test the...
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Info for this part was:

Employee Mike L
Expert Research:
Mike L
Employee Michael H
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Michael H
Employee Jameson C
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Jameson C
Employee John H
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John H
Employee Adam R
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Adam R
Employee Rachael H
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Rachael H
Employee Jeffrey L
Expert Research:
Jeffrey L
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Employee Adele M
Updated by:
Adele M
Employee Wilson B
Updated by:
Wilson B
Employee Alexander C
Updated by:
Alexander C
Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Jacob H
Video by:
Jacob H

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