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Sliding tray saves you from having to climb into your truck bed to reach heavy toolboxes, generators, and other gear stored at the front of the bed. Perfect for a truck with a tonneau cover or camper shell. Extends 56" past your tailgate.
Features:
Specs:
The BedSlide Heavy-Duty sliding truck bed tray is perfect for contractors who don't want to load and unload their gear at the jobsite. Instead of climbing into your truck bed or having to reach a long way, you can simply slide the items to you. It's much easier on your body and reduces the risk of injury from slipping, falling, or pulling a muscle. It also makes it easy to retrieve the items that you typically store in the front of your truck bed. The heavy-duty tray supports up to 2,000 pounds, so you can safely carry toolboxes, generators, power washers, and other heavy items.
Deck rails and guard rails along the sides and in the back of the BedSlide keep your gear contained on the tray. The deck rails attach directly to the edges of the tray. They help prevent smaller items from sliding off and falling into your truck bed. The guard rails attach to the deck rails and sit 5" above the deck surface. They help prevent taller gear from tipping over or falling off the tray and crashing to the ground. T-tracks in the deck rails and the guard rails let you attach accessories for anchoring your gear and storing and organizing smaller items.
4 Included D-rings provide anchor points for tie-down straps, allowing you to easily secure toolboxes, generators, and other gear. Just insert the D-rings into the T-tracks on the guard rails or deck rails and slide them wherever you want. Extra D-rings (sold separately) are available if you need more than 4 tie-down points.
The available BedBins (sold separately) keep hand tools, gloves, and other smaller items organized. Just slide them to the most convenient location along the T-tracks and secure them with the included hardware.
You can also set a deck divider (sold separately) on the tray for easy cargo organization, or to create a make-shift storage bin. You can place groceries near the front of the tray so they're easy to grab when you get home, or keep buckets, spray cans, and other tall items upright so they don't fall over and spill or roll around. The deck divider sits loose on the BedSlide but has a non-skid pad on the bottom that prevents it from sliding around.
If you're going to haul smaller items and need more storage space than the BedSlide provides, you can add an upper tray (sold separately). This lets you store items over the BedSlide without losing access to valuable deck space. Mount it at the front of the BedSlide for easy access to items you will use regularly, or at the back for less-used items. Use the included hardware to mount it in the T-tracks on the side guard rails.
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
What's up, everybody It's AJ with etrailer.com. Today we're going to be checking out the BedSlide, sliding truck bed tray. Now it's going to be heavy duty. And this is going to be great for if you have a camper shell like we have here, maybe a tonneau cover, or you just have trouble accessing the items in the front of your truck bed. This is going to be able to slide that out. You can see this is what would normally be all the way up there towards the front.
Now it's out here, I can easily grab it. And with this in the way, that makes it super easier. Or if you had a tonneau cover, it has easy access to your stuff, leaving room for the things that might not stay in there that long. Maybe you went and got groceries. You can throw them here, take them out easily.
It makes it more organized and more room for your space. Let's check it out. Right now we have it fully extended, just showing you the full range of it. This would be a good example. You know, you've got the heavier generators toward the back for the job site, you got your tools here.
If you even just have random buckets of tools or hardware, they're just laying around, it's nice. That's just going to keep it all contained in this space and actually kind of help you organize a little better. Cause otherwise you have that all jammed up front and you have to go through all this stuff just to get to the generator. Even if you could, like the camper shell, is going to make that hard. You don't have to climb up there and get in there and get that.
All your tools are still here and way easier to access. So let's go through all the different stopping points it has. You're going to pull on this handle here. It's real easy, you can do it with one hand. Just push it in, I'm going to stop when it locks. Right there's a stopping point. So that way, if you don't need that generator right now, you're just trying to get to this toolbox, I mean, just pull out that much and that's good. Push it in a little bit more. There's another stopping point. Again, something more towards this end. You don't quite need that generator but you can still grab something if you need it. Save you time on pulling this whole thing out. And this is going to be the final spot here. And we'll go ahead and shut the tailgate and show you how much space is going to be in between there. With it shut, you can see, you don't have to worry about it hitting that or scratching on the back of your tailgate. There's still space here, plenty of room. There's not gonna be any issues. Now you might not be able to see it here but let me extend it all the way out again to get a better look at it. You might notice that it does slope up in its fully extended position. And that's just because it can handle up to 2000 pounds. And if you have that loaded up here towards the back it's going to push down on this a little bit and you don't want to make any contact with a tailgate or anything. This just gives it that extra space. So if you we're to weigh it down with like a heavier generator on this end, this would be just level with the truck. It wouldn't slope down and damage anything. The whole thing has a steel construction on the sides. That's this part and the rails up here and then here has a composite decking. So it's kind of a nice textured finish similar to a spray-in bed liner. So it's got that texture and that functionality of the grip. If you look over here by the tools and see I can push around a little bit. It still moves but that texture's going to help things stay in place. And that goes the same thing with the rails here. With them here, you don't have to worry about anything sliding off, even have tie-down points here. So that you can loosen and move back and forth just to help you keep your gear in place. You can also customize it with accessories. So one thing I would get for this one is a divider that would go into the rails. And it would just divide your work equipment from whatever else you're going to put back here. Or the big stuff from the small stuff. You can separate however you want. You can also get bins that attach along the side for more loose things you can drop in there. Maybe hand tools can go in there. That way you can keep that organized. You don't have to just lay it out and take up the bed space. Let's get some measurements and see how much space you actually have to work with here. We're gonna go straight across. And get the width first. It's 45 1/2 inches there Let's do height of the rail. So flip it around. Little bit under 5, so it looks like 4 3/4 there. And then we'll go length. It's right there at usable space. It'd be probably 69 inches. That's going to be from that ledge to the steel there to this ledge right here. Cause you're not gonna have anything overhanging that. You probably want to know if it's going to fit in the back of your truck or not. So let's go ahead and get some measurements there. I'm gonna go all the way to the back rail and measure out to this handle right here. Got it hooked on there now. All just straight up and down. It's like 75 1/2 inches out here. And then we'll go side to side. And instead of going the inside, like we did last time we're just going to do outside to outside. 48 1/2 inches from side to side there. The last measurement we're going to get is from the high point here on the bed to the top of the deck right there. It's going to be 4 1/2 inches. And what this one's for is if you do have a tonneau cover, and you're thinking about throwing like a tub on here on top, you want to make sure you have that clearance to actually keep that closed and have the BedSlide in there at the same time. Now you do have some options if you're looking at sliding bed trays. You have the BedSlide like we're talking about today. And then also the CargoGlide. And they're going to have a bunch of different weight capacity options for whatever vehicle you want to put it in. But there is some differences. Like, this BedSlide is going to have more of the add-on accessories. Like the bins for the loose hardware, loose tools. The CargoGlide does not have the same options. They have a few but not as much as this one. The other thing is you can slide this out to 75% of the bed tray. So that's how much space you're going to get. So it doesn't come out. So the CargoGlide will come out 100% of the bed tray and it doesn't slope up. So it's going to come out just straight like this. So if you we're to weigh it down, it would be all coming down on here. That was one of the things that the BedSlide has. Like, even though it doesn't come all the way out you can still access stuff right here. I didn't have any problems grabbing it. It just comes right here and it slopes up. That's going to protect the back and just kind of level it out that way. It just keeps everything level. As far as installation goes, they're going to be similar. But I think that I like the BedSlide better because it gives you a better tool when you're doing the rib nut portion of it. It just has a better tool that's higher quality that made the job overall easier. Now either way, you're going have to drill some holes. So just follow along with us and see how we did it. First up, we're going to come in here to the ends. I'm going to unscrew this with an allen key and just loosen that screw that's down in there. And we can remove the end and slide in our pieces. Just like that. And you're gonna want to do it with the curved end facing down. And it slides in there like this. Just going to put two of those in there and then we'll replace the end here. Coming to this end, I went ahead and removed the end cap, just like before. I'm going to put these blocks in again with the curved side down, slide them along the track. We're going to put 5 of them in. Just like this. And replace the cap. Now we're gonna line up our corner bracket. What we're going to do is, you can just slide those blocks pretty easily along the track. And you want to line those up with the holes on the bottom of this bracket. So let's set it in place and see. We need to push this one in just a little bit more. Match up that hole. I'd say we need to come over right there. And I can- There we go. The holes are aligned there and now we're going to install all our screws and then I'll come back and tighten down the rest of the way with the allen wrench. So after we got this corner installed, we're going to stop there. We're not gonna install the other corner just yet. You gotta slide this rail in first. So we're going to do just like on the sides. We're gonna slide one of those plastic pieces in, with the curved side down. And then slide this into the corner bracket. We're gonna line up those holes there. Make sure the rail is going to touch the end here. So they'll need to slide this out just a little bit. I can move it into place there. All right, with that in place, come back with this bolt and thread it in. And then come back with a ratchet and tighten it down. After installing the first corner and the head rail, we went over to the other side and did the same thing. Now we're coming back here to on the side and we're gonna use the existing plates we put in there. So I kinda got it lined up of what we're going to do. These are going to be for the D-rings here on the side, and the screw's end and the two in the middle here are going to be for the side bracket for the side rails. So what we're going to do is to set that in place like we did before. Line up those holes. Let's go ahead and line up this one first. Get it started. Once I got that hand-started, I can move it on its own. And line up that one. Now come back and loosely install it. You don't want to tighten this all the way just yet but I'm just going to get them a little bit tighter. Now we'll go back with the D-rings and slowly screw those in. And we decided to put one on each side of that side bracket. We gonna leave those loose too so we can move them back and forth for now. Now we can install the upper rail. We're gonna put these blocks in real quick. Before we do that, same as we've done all the time, curved end down. With those slid in, now you can see that I just slid those in on the open side. We want that open side to go into the bracket. Just slide that into place there. Then I can slide our side bracket down and we want at least six inches of space from the bracket to the end for that nice clean look. So I'll leave this loose and come back here in a second. I'm going to add the bolts in here to the plastic pieces we slid it. Now I left that loose in the corner bracket just to keep it in place. I'm going to do the same thing here. I'm just going to line up this side bracket with the plastic that we put in there and get that hand-tightened. With everything in place where we want it, we can go back and tighten everything down. And then we're going to repeat this whole process on the other side. Now we're ready to lift up the BedSlide and put it in place. Now you're gonna need some extra set of hands because it's pretty heavy, especially towards the back. And when you go to set it in here, make sure you center it. We put a piece of cardboard here so it doesn't scratch up the bed as we're lining it up. And you want an inch and a half from the front of the bed there. So with the extra set of hands, you can lift it, set it in place. This is where the cardboard comes in handy because we're going to slide it toward the front. So we finally got it right in the bed of the truck. Took a little bit of maneuvering back and forth. We measured it from the wheel wells just to make sure that was the same spacing on each side. Upfront is where we had the trouble of lining that up. So what we've discovered is if we've got 2 pieces of wood and put it there, and then they measured out an inch and a half, if we set that at the front of the truck bed and then pushed it up against it, that was far easier than trying to line up each corner. Because we kept going back and forth and we're having issues with that. So we just put those wood up there, pushed it up against there. Now it's even on both sides and it's set in place. Just going to reach up and slide this back to the first locking position. Right there, and then go up and start drilling our holes. Now we're ready to check out and see where we're going to drill our holes. Now we've slid it out just to expose those holes we can use. And each one has three spots where you see there. It's going to be the best one that has the most coverage on it. And the part that goes up on your bed. So not this part that makes an indention. This would not be a good one to pick. So we're not going to go with the middle one. This one has a little bit here on the raised side. This one has the most. So this is the one we're going to go with. So what we do is we're gonna take our 1/2 inch drill bit. That's the one we're gonna drill our last hole out with. So I'm just going to kind of push down on there. Use that tip to make a point in the bed just so I can see where it's going to be. Now that I've made that mark, I'm back with the center punch. Put it in that same spot and just push down. It's going to make even more of a hole so I can start my pilot hole. And with that first pilot hole, we're gonna repeat that on the other holes. When I come back here, now we've got the pilot hole and use our 1/2 inch bit to go ahead and widen that up. With the hole enlarged, we can drop in our rib nut. I'm just going to apply a little bit of pressure with my thumb and we'll go into place there. Now we can get it to expand and how we're going to do that is use this bolt and rib nut tool. Now something we found, and it was helpful, because as you go to tighten this down, you're going to drop this through, use a wrench as another tool. And what that's going to do is that bolt is going to make that rib nut expand down there. And it kind of fights you a little bit. But we found if you add a little bit of grease, it makes it way easier. So I'm just going to dab the shop towel in there. Just get a little bit of it, put it on the bolt itself and then a little bit on the tool here so that it can not get stuck on that bolt. I just put a little bit there. Drop that through. Now we're just going to tighten a little bit of it to get it started. That way I won't have to hold it up. We're gonna take our ratcheting wrench, set it in place and I'm gonna put all the pressure down on this wrench and then put the allen key in here too and start to tighten it down. Now we're going to come back and put a washer on our bolt, and put those into our rib nuts. And get it hand-tightened and then use the allen key to fully tighten it down. With those bolts tightened down, the install is done. So it wasn't really that complicated. You just had to drill a few holes out. And I think the hardest part was probably those rib nuts. But once we got that, you can slide it right back into place just like that. And with it back into place, some other things to think about is you can remeasure it now from side to side. Those holes are slotted, so if you have to go back with the allen key and loosen it, you can adjust it side to side to fix that, if it is a little bit off. But other than that, you're done. Well, I think that does it. Thanks for hanging out and hope this helped..
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