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Pace Edwards PowerGate Electric Tailgate Lock

Pace Edwards PowerGate Electric Tailgate Lock

Item # 311-LK270
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311-LK270 - Power Pace Edwards Tailgate Lock
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Lowest Prices for the best vehicle locks from Pace Edwards. Pace Edwards PowerGate Electric Tailgate Lock part number 311-LK270 can be ordered online at or call 1-636-306-4830 for expert service.
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Pace Edwards Vehicle Locks - 311-LK270

  • Tailgate Lock
  • Vehicle Specific
  • Pace Edwards
  • Power
  • Keyed Alike

  • Tailgate lock works with your tonneau cover to keep your truck bed secure
  • Tailgate locks when you lock your doors
  • Mounts on the inside of the tailgate and wires to your truck door locks
  • Plug-and-go wiring harness, actuator, stainless steel backing plate, and slide bolt with nylon guide block included

LK270 Pace Edwards PowerGate Electric Tailgate Lock

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

California residents: click here

Video of Pace Edwards PowerGate Electric Tailgate Lock

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Pace Edwards PowerGate Electric Tailgate Lock Installation - 2005 GMC Sierra

Speaker 1: Today on our 2005 GMC Sierra, we're going to be installing the Pace-Edwards Powergate electric tailgate lock, part number 311-LK270. This system is only designed to work with vehicles with factory automatic locks. If you have a manual locking system, you'll need to purchase a switch kit, such as part number PAL9520. Even though you have a tonneau cover on your vehicle, if you don't have a locking tailgate, it doesn't offer any protection from theft. Anybody can just walk up, open your tailgate, and steal your precious cargo.But with this automatic locking tailgate latch, you can now protect your cargo with the click of a button just like you we're locking your vehicle. And while it works great with the tonneau cover we've got here, it'll also work fantastically with a camper shell.

So if you've got more stuff you need to haul, you can keep everything in your camper shell nice and secure with this lock. This locking mechanism installs right onto your factory latch. It'll keep it from opening so nobody can get inside, and it also works with your existing key fob or the interior lock and unlock buttons.Here, you can see the automatic lock functioning. There is unlocked, and your rods can press together to release your tailgate. But here, it goes up, and it prevents your rods from moving so the tailgate can't be opened.

This system works best with a tonneau cover that unlatches from the inside. If your tonneau cover unlatches and opens from the outside, then regardless of your tailgate's lock, somebody could roll your cover back and get in. But with one that opens from the inside, while your tailgate's shut and locked, nobody can open your tonneau cover or tailgate, and your cargo's secure in your truck bed.So if your truck is primarily a work truck and you have a lot of expensive equipment and tools in the back, this way, you can keep it locked and secure while on the job site. You can go to lunch, walk away from your truck, and you don't have to worry. This is also great for the avid campers.

You go to your site and you've got some equipment in the back that you don't necessarily want to unload at your campsite, you can keep it locked and secure in your truck while you're out on the lake.This kit's designed to work with both 8 foot and shorter beds. There's no drilling or welding required. Let's show you how to get it installed now. To begin the installation, you're going to need to remove the bezel around your handle. Now, you can do this by pushing down and pulling out.

If you're having some difficulty, you can use a trim tool to get in there to help you pry the tabs down, and then set it aside.Now, you can use a pair of needle-nose pliers to pop off the retaining clips on the release rods. Just give some pressure when you twist it there and push the retainer to the side. Do this for both sides. Now, the rods will slip right out. Now, to release your tailgate, you want to pull these levers together. Lower your tailgate down. Remove the 13 millimeter hex head bolts on the back side using a 13 millimeter socket.Now, hold the handle for your tailgate release lever and shut your tailgate. Now, you can drop the handle down, tilt it upward, and pull it out. We'll set it aside. Now, we can open our tailgate up again by pushing the two levers together. Using the wire with the round, female connector ends and the exposed and non-exposed connector that's short, we're going to run this up through the tailgate starting with the butt-connected female ends.Located at the bottom driver's side of your tailgate, you'll find an opening which is the water drain outlet. We're going to put our wire in that hole and feed it up to our handle. Now, when you're running your wire up, there are several baffles throughout your lift gate, so it can be difficult to get it up to the opening. So when you're feeding it in, if you can feed it up to your latch on the driver's side, and you can look in through this latch so you can see where the wire's going. I've got mine already routed up near the latch, and you can use a little claw tool or something that you can use to push the wire over to your opening.Once you've got your wires over, just pull through any excess up into the tailgate. You want to make sure that your two prong connector is still coming out the back side of your tailgate, because we're going to connect this and run it up in a later step. Connect your locking motor mechanism to the wires we just ran up. Now, it doesn't really matter which one you connect them to. We can adjust it in the later step further on down the wire if it's operating in a reverse direction. For now, we're going to connect the blue to the white and the green to the brown.It is important to make note of how you've got it connected here so you can adjust it later when you're running the rest of your wires. Tuck your wires to the side. Tilt your locking mechanism in place, and line it up with the holes. And you're going to follow with the original latching mechanism and place it on top. Once you've got them both in place, again, pull your rods together so you can lower your tailgate down. Line up the holes between your locking mechanism and your latch assembly and start one of the bolts by hand. This will hold it in place so you can maneuver your other two holes to get them lined up.Snug it down with your 13 millimeter socket. We may need to loosen them and make some minor adjustments if the latching mechanism is off to one side a little bit, preventing it from opening properly. So as you can see here, our locking mechanism is contacting one of our arms, so it won't go into the full lock position. So we're going to have to adjust it a little bit to the passenger side to allow this to go all the way up.So now, we're going to loosen them back up a little bit. We've got it loose on the other side. We're making sure our levers are spread apart, as they would be in the normal position, and we're just adjusting our lever over a little bit until we can see that it can move up and down without contacting either arm. So now that we're in the lock position and it's all the way up between both bars, try and get it as centered as possible so it's smooth when it operates electronically and then snug it back down.Now, again, you want to check to see that you can manually move it. If it binds when manually moving it, the locking actuator may struggle when electronically moving it, causing it not to lock when you think it is locked or vice versa. Since ours is smooth, we're ready to reconnect our rods and continue the install. Simply push it back in the hole we took it out of and then turn the clip up until it snaps into place. We'll do that same process on the other side. And now, you can put your bezel back on.Now, we're going to take our long wiring harness. We'll plug it into our short harness that we had just run through the tailgate, and then we're going to route this wire up into the driver's side engine compartment. It's best to follow your factory wiring when doing this, avoiding any heated objects, such as your exhaust, or moving components such as steering and suspension parts. We're going to route this now, and we'll show you how we did it.We ran our wire over the top of the frame rail and followed it all the way up, making sure to stay above all the components. We did switch here to the other side of the frame rail, still on the top side, staying along the top all the way past the fuel tank and then back on the outside again, sticking towards the outside along the harness right up to the left front wheel well. From here, we're going to need to go up into our engine compartment.To get our wire up to the engine compartment, we're going to use a piece of air line. You can use a coat hanger or anything else that's kind of rigid but flexible to feed down to where your wire is, attach it, and then pull it back up. We've got our hose we routed down. We're just going to use some electrical tape to tape it to that hose so we can pull it back up. And then pull your hose and feed the rest of the wire all the way up.The wire we just ran to the compartment will eventually attach to our relay using these green and blue wires. We're not going to attach it just yet. On the driver's side, at the top right portion of the firewall, you'll see a grommet. You can pull this grommet back, move it to the side, and then feed your wires through. Again, we're feeding the gray and purple wire through the firewall.And then, go ahead and feed your wire up on through, down your driver's side floor panel. We need to get our left kick panel out of the way, so if you have a floor mat, you may need to move that out of the way. You want to lift up on the front of your step trim just to pop that front one out, and then on your side panel, you want to pull towards the rear of the vehicle to release it and set it aside. Feed the gray and purple wire through the hole behind that panel into the rubber door harness so you can get into your door. You'll need to pry back on the rubber boot to release it so we can get the wires fed through it.The door panel has to come off so we can access our wire and connection to our door actuator. To remove the door panel, you need to remove the trim panel at the top. You can use . a body panel remover tool is the best tool to use, as it's plastic and it won't scratch the paint or anything else. It just pries out. As you're pulling out, feel for the tabs, because you want to be as close to the tab as possible when you're pulling outward to prevent cracking the panel. Then, remove the push pin at the front of the door. Pry out the manual lock lever. Move the cap at the rear of the door. Remove the bezel around the door handle. Slide it off the handle.There are three bolts that have to be removed using an 8 millimeter socket, one behind the manual lever bezel we removed, one behind the pull handle. Remove the one at the bottom underneath your mat pocket, and remove the torqued bolt using a T-20 torque fit, which was located behind the button at the rear of the door. Using the handle, pull upward on the door panel to release it from its locks and then pull outward.They have some electrical connectors at the back that you'll need to disconnect. Then, remove the four connectors that go to your master control switch, and you can set this aside. Now that we've got access to the inside of the door panel, we can finish running our wire through the rubber grommet into the door. To help run the wire through your rubber grommet going into the door, you can use a screwdriver, feed it through.If you're having difficulty getting it fed through the loom going into the door, you have a couple of different options to get it through there. You could make a small incision down the side of it. However, this can expose your wires to moisture, which could also leak into the vehicle. So a better option would be to remove the butt connector ends by snipping them off and feed just the wire through. This will be significantly smaller and be much easier to feed through.And now, we can pull it through. Now that we've got it fed through our grommet, we can feed it up into the door. Now that we've got it fed into the door, we can put our spade terminals back on. Go ahead and strip back a little bit of wire. Do the same thing on your spade terminals we cut off. Reconnect the gray to the gray and the purple to the purple. You want to make sure you're using heat shrink butt connectors, as moisture does get access into your door panel, which could cause corrosion if they're not sealed.Now that we've got them all connected, heat shrink them down using a heat gun. This'll keep them nice and sealed. Now, we're going to finish routing our wire over to our door lock actuator at the end of the door. You want to make sure that you follow your factory wiring and you zip tie to that factory wiring as you're routing it over. If you have it routed improperly, when you roll your window up and down, it may interfere with your window, causing your window to bind or possibly break the wire you just ran.Now that we've got our wire run over to our actuator, I want to peel back some of the loom so we can more easily access the gray and tan wire. You can use your razor knife to trim back some of the sheathing. If you reach underneath the connector, you can pull down on the tab slightly and then push outward to release it. This will make it easier for making your connections. Take the blue splice connectors provided in the kit, slide it over the gray wire, making sure you get the splice portion around it, and clamp it shut. You may need to use a pair of pliers. And do the same thing with the tan wire.We're going to connect our purple wire to our tan wire quick splice. This just slides on the end, and then connect the gray to the gray. And now, we can plug our connector back in. Now that we're all connected here in the door, before we put everything back together, we're going to finish hooking up our relay just in case we need to swap the position of our wiring or change the routing a little bit so we have enough length to reach everything we need to.Next, we need to hook our relay power and ground wires. Now, typically, you can hook this to the battery positive and negative cable. However, with it being a side-post battery, there's not very many threads on your side-post positive terminal, and you could potentially rip out the threads inside the battery or damage the threads on the post and cause an issue with your battery connection, rendering your vehicle inoperative.So rather than hook it to the battery, we're going to hook it into our fuse box. Now, when we open our fuse box lid, there's no post for us to connect this to. However, there is a post located under this cover, and it's not difficult to get this cover off. To get this cover off, we'll need to take this panel out here, remove this with a 13 millimeter socket. There's four bolts. Set that aside. There's two release tabs in the front of the cover located here. Just pull out and pull upward, and one on the other side here. Do the same. Pull out and push up, and we can pull this up out of the way.With our fuse box panel cover off, remove the 7 millimeter head bolt. Position your power wire and reattach the bolt using a 7 millimeter socket. Now, we can replace our cover we removed. Make sure both the tabs in the front lock back into place. Put your fuse panel lid back on and reinstall the bracket you removed. Next, we're going to hook up our ground wire. You could drill this into any metal surface using a self-tapping screw or to any ground post you see available. We're just going to use the screw here, which will provide us with the good ground and tighten it back down using a 10 millimeter socket.Now, we can take the two wires that we ran from the tailgate of the vehicle up to the engine compartment. Connect your white wire to your blue wire and your black wire to your green wire. Now, we're ready to test it out and make sure everything's working properly. Go ahead and hit the lock and unlock button on your key fob or door. If your lock actuator is working opposite, so when you press lock, it unlocks, you may need to switch the gray and purple wires that are connected to your door lock actuator inside your door panel.So you can go ahead and do that now, and then you're ready to reassemble your door panel. With your door panel all assembled, you can go up to the engine compartment and zip tie up any of the loose wires. And that completes our installation of the Pace-Edwards Powergate electric tailgate lock on our 2005 GMC Sierra.

Customer Reviews

Pace Edwards PowerGate Electric Tailgate Lock - 311-LK270

Average Customer Rating:  4.7 out of 5 stars   (15 Customer Reviews)


Now I can feel safe that my tonneau cover will be locked. There's no key whole, so nothing to Jimmy. Very protected. Also, the lock actuator feels and sounds very sturdy and capable.
Very on time.
Perfect fit.
I feel like there could of been an install video. Would have made the process easier to grasp.

P.S. follow the instructions step by step; they are very insightful into the car model and all its intricacies.

Its been a year now and Im very happy about this lock. At first I thought that the actuator was too small for the old school Chevy heavy ass lock that requires power to slam it shut. Boy was I wrong!! And Im glad that I picked this one. I lock and unlock my truck way too many times a day for this type of mechanism to withstand. But this lock is a BEAST!! LOVE IT!!
Daniel K - 09/09/2020




WORKS GREAT! Easy installation

2000 Chevrolet Silverado

This item worked on my truck. Had a little problem with the installing of the lock. Had to ajust the lock rod on the passenger side of the tailgate, for clearance for lock to fit, and work smoothly. Works Great now.

2016 Ford F-350 Super Duty

thank you guys


2003 Chevrolet Silverado

I already installed it anywhere is real good thank you guys

2002 Chevrolet Silverado


Review from a similar PowerGate in Vehicle Locks

The way this works is the solenoid to block the handle from being lifted, all I can see happening is the handle breaking. The solenoid should lock/unlock the actual lock cylinder (if equipped). Wiring diagram for 2013 Toyota Tundra is poor, so I haven’t hooked it up yet.

Hey Kyle, I went through all reviews I could find and no one has mentioned anything breaking. I do see some people talking about the install instructions are not as clear as they could be though.
-- Etrailer Expert David B - 08/25/2022


Review from a similar PowerGate in Vehicle Locks

Great item, secures tailgate


Review from a similar PowerGate in Vehicle Locks

Good quality, instructions could be better with couple of pictures. Fast shipping


Review from a similar PowerGate in Vehicle Locks

Works as advertised. Instructions are a little vague.


Review from a similar PowerGate in Vehicle Locks

Works as it should. Very nice to secure your stuff in the truck bed.


Review from a similar PowerGate in Vehicle Locks

Very happy


Review from a similar PowerGate in Vehicle Locks


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Info for this part was:

Employee Joe V
Test Fit:
Joe V
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Tyler C
Edited by:
Tyler C
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B
Employee Chris R
Video by:
Chris R
Employee Wilson B
Updated by:
Wilson B
Employee Denise W
Written by:
Denise W

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