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B&W Continuum Weight Distribution System w/ Sway Control - Underslung - 16K GTW, 1.6K TW

B&W Continuum Weight Distribution System w/ Sway Control - Underslung - 16K GTW, 1.6K TW

Item # BW53FR
Our Price: $1,339.00
Weight Distribution Hitch
Shipping Weight: 114 lbs
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The Continuum is so quiet, you just might forget you have it. No more snapping bars up onto noisy brackets. Easy to install, distributes weight with precision, controls sway, and is easily adjustable. 2-5/16" Ball and 2-1/2" shank included. Great Prices for the best weight distribution hitch from B and W. B&W Continuum Weight Distribution System w/ Sway Control - Underslung - 16K GTW, 1.6K TW part number BW53FR can be ordered online at or call 1-800-940-8924 for expert service.
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B and W Weight Distribution Hitch - BW53FR

  • 1000 lbs
  • 1100 lbs
  • 1200 lbs
  • 1300 lbs
  • 1400 lbs
  • 1500 lbs
  • 700 lbs
  • 800 lbs
  • 900 lbs
  • Fits 2-1/2 Inch Hitch
  • WD With Sway Control
  • Allows Backing Up
  • B and W
  • Includes Shank
  • Electric Brake Compatible
  • Prevents Sway

The Continuum is so quiet, you just might forget you have it. No more snapping bars up onto noisy brackets. Easy to install, distributes weight with precision, controls sway, and is easily adjustable. 2-5/16" Ball and 2-1/2" shank included.


  • Evenly distributes weight over axles of tow vehicle and trailer for stability and control
    • Creates a more level ride for both tow vehicle and trailer
  • Super-quiet sway control works without noisy brackets or add-on sway bars
    • No screeching steel or popping brackets
    • Silent friction sway control inside hitch head helps hold trailer steady at connection point
  • Perfect weight balance is easy to achieve with the pump of a pressurized handle
    • Keep track of the psi setting to recreate your perfect tow setup every time you hit the road
    • Make adjustments on-the-fly, even on the side of the road
    • Get more leverage when pumping at higher pressure levels by extending the handle
  • Huge tongue weight range can handle almost anything
    • Grows with you as you upgrade to larger trailers and campers
    • Uses flexible load bars that support light and heavy loads alike
  • Fast and easy setup every time
    • Preset pitch in the system head means it's always ready to go - no need to adjust
    • No more circling your trailer to snap spring bars into place - single-piece load bar assembly can be set up entirely from driver's side
  • Built-in grease zerks in the head make routine maintenance easy
  • Durable and corrosion-resistant, powder coated, cast iron components
  • System includes head assembly, adjustable shank, hitch ball, hydraulic pump and cylinder, load bar assembly, and all necessary hardware
  • Made in the USA


  • Tongue weight: 600 lbs - 1,600 lbs
  • Maximum gross towing weight: 16,000 lbs
  • Application:
    • 2-1/2" x 2-1/2" Trailer hitch receivers rated for use with weight distribution systems
    • Designed for use on trailers with bottom-mounted couplers
    • Fits trailer frame height of 5" or 6"
    • Compatible with tow vehicles with or without an auto-leveling system
  • Ball size: 2-5/16"
  • Maximum drop: 1-1/8"
  • Maximum rise: 9-3/8"
  • Shank length:
    • 6-3/8" From center of hitch pin hole to center of adjustment holes
    • 6" From center of hitch pin hole to front of shank
  • Total height adjustment along shank: 10-1/2"
    • Overall height: 8-3/4"
    • Head adjusts in 3-1/2" increments
  • Space between load bars: 6-1/2"
  • Weight of load bar assembly: 20 lbs
  • Weight of system head: 35 lbs
  • Limited lifetime warranty


  • The B&W Continuum cannot be used with surge-type trailer brakes.
  • When installed, the lowest point of the system will sit about 9" below your trailer frame. Check your ground clearance to see how much space you'll have with it installed.

Shank dimensions of B and W Continuum head unit

Included w/ BW53FR Required - Sold Separately Optional Add-Ons
  • Head unit
  • Mounting hardware for 5" and 6" trailer frames
  • Hydraulic pump and cylinder
  • Hydraulic cylinder extension adapter for underslung couplers
  • Load bar assembly
n/a n/a

Diagram showing weight distribution on a truck and towing a camper

Create a stable ride for your tow vehicle and trailer with a weight distribution (WD) system. Adding load bars to your towing system applies leverage, which transfers the load that is pushing down on the rear of your vehicle to all the axles on both your tow vehicle and your trailer, resulting in an even distribution of weight throughout. The result is a smooth, level ride, as well as the ability to tow the maximum capacity of your hitch.

A New Way to Solve Sway

When your tongue weight is perfectly balanced, you can achieve sway control without the need for additional sway bars or noisy, friction-inducing brackets. The Continuum allows you to do just that. The single-piece load bar assembly on this system is designed to transfer weight off of the coupling point and evenly disperse it over the axles of your truck and trailer instead.

Other weight distribution systems require a ton of manual adjustment to get the weight balanced. You might have to switch out chain links or play around with the height of frame brackets to get the right tension on the spring bars. The tilt of the system head might need to be adjusted too to get the load distributed. But even with those adjustments, it can be almost impossible to fine-tune the system enough to get your tongue weight perfectly balanced.

Diagram of a B and W Continuum that includes callouts for all the components of the system with Liteflex technology by Hendrickson

The Continuum eliminates those manual adjustments and instead uses hydraulic pressure to raise and lower the load bars. This makes it way easier to activate the weight distribution because you only have to pump the handle on the driver's side. You won't need to circle your trailer to snap spring bars up individually. It also lets you quickly and easily fine-tune the tension to get your ride just right.

Faster, Safer, Easier Setup

When you first install the Continuum, it might take a bit of time to get the load bar assembly, hydraulic cylinder, and hydraulic pump mounted on your trailer. But once everything is in place, setting up the system each time you tow is a snap.

The B and W weight distribution hitch installed on a camper as it turns a sharp corner

The hitch head - which mounts in your vehicle's receiver and provides the attachment point for the Continuum - features a preset angle, so the only adjustment you might need to make is to move the head up or down along the shank. Unlike other weight distribution systems, you won't need to change out any hard-to-reach washers or readjust the tension on spring bars to get set up. The head also has friction sway control built in to help hold your trailer in line at the coupling point.

A side view shows the B and W Continuum installed hooked up on a truck inside a garage

Instead of rigid steel spring bars that have to be manually snapped into place, the Continuum has a composite load bar assembly that raises with a pump of a handle. This assembly uses a flexible composite material called LiteFlex, which is strong enough to handle heavy loads, yet flexible enough to ensure that you won't have a rough, rigid ride at lower tongue weights. Because of this, the Continuum can handle anything from a small enclosed trailer to a large camper, allowing the system to grow with you.

An etrailer teammate kneels next to a trailer, demonstrating how to use the hydraulic pump on the B and W Continuum

Once you get your trailer hooked up and you're ready to transfer your load, just pump the handle on the hydraulic unit. This will raise the rear of the load bar assembly to distribute your tongue weight.

B and W Continuum weight distribution close up image of hydraulic unit with gauge

The knob on the side of the hydraulic unit allows you to back off some of the pressure you pump in so you can dial in just the right amount to get your towing setup balanced. Take note of the psi reading on the built-in pressure gauge once you're done, and record it in the included log for the next time you tow.

If you start to experience a bumpy ride while towing with the Continuum, it might be a sign that you've moved too much weight off of the connection point. Fixing this is simple: find a place to park and turn the built-in adjustment knob on the pump unit to release some pressure.

Selecting a Weight Distribution System

The tongue weight rating is the most important factor in determining which size weight distribution system you should use. If the bars of the system you choose are rated too high for your setup, they will create a rigid ride, which can result in a bouncing trailer. If, on the other hand, the bars are not rated high enough, the system will be unable to properly distribute the weight, rendering it virtually useless.

To determine the proper weight rating for a weight distribution system, you must first determine your trailer's tongue weight. Then add to that the weight of the cargo behind the rear axle of your tow vehicle. These two measurements make up the tongue weight rating for a weight distribution system.

WDHK4503 B and W Continuum Weight Distribution System with Exclusive Liteflex Technology by Hendrickson - 2-1/2" Shank - Underslung

WDHL4511 B and W Continuum Weight Distribution Load Bars - Underslung Coupler

WDHH4502 B and W Continuum Weight Distribution Head Assembly - 2.5" Shank - 2-5/16" Ball - 16K

Installation Details BW53FR Installation instructions

Video of B&W Continuum Weight Distribution System w/ Sway Control - Underslung - 16K GTW, 1.6K TW

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for B&W Continuum Weight Distribution System Review

Hello neighbors, it's Brad here at etrailer. And today, we are taking a look at the B&W Continuum weight distribution system. Now, this is gonna be available in four different configurations. And really, it's gonna come down to your shank or the style of trailer you have. So, you can get it in a two-inch shank here or a 2 1/2-inch, depending on your truck. And you can also get it with or without a cylinder extension and that's gonna be for your standard trailers versus your underslung trailers.

Now, if you've seen the traditional weight distribution system, you're probably looking at this and saying, "That looks a little bit different." And it is. And it's really addressed some of the issues that you have with your traditional style of weight distribution and, I think, fixed a lot of them. And the main thing that you're gonna see that's different is the size. Normally, you have bars that extend to really get that tension and this one works a little bit differently by using a hydraulic cylinder and a pump. And that way, you can adjust exactly where you want it to be.

So, you do get a little bit of adjustability as well. Now, normally, when choosing a wheat distribution system, you have to match it to your tongue weight. And a lot of times, you're gonna be matching it to the gross trailer weight of whatever travel trailer you have, and that's not the case here. This one has a range of a tongue weight from 600 to 1,600, so it's gonna work with a bunch of different travel trailers and that's gonna be really nice. So, if you ever upgrade down the road, you can take this Continuum and put it on there.

Even if the tongue weight changes, you're still gonna be able to use it. Now, as far as your gross trailer weight rating on this, it's rated up to 16,000 pounds, which is really gonna open up the window for whatever size travel trailer you may have. Now, your traditional-style bars are gonna use a head that's very similar to this. This one attaches a little bit differently, but it's gonna give you kind of the same idea. It's going to tension here on our brackets.

And those are gonna need to either be bolted, clamped down or welded onto your trailer. And sometimes, that's where it can get a little bit tricky, as far as finding space to mount that up. This one, being a little bit shorter, mounts kinda right behind the jack and normally right in front of your propane tanks and you really only need 2 1/2 inches of clearance to be able to make that work. Now, one of those added benefits to the new design of this is gonna be storage. So, traditionally, when you're done towing, you're gonna have to store those bars, whereas this one lives on the jack. They give you a mount. And that way, when you separate this, you can place it here and that's gonna keep it from dragging or getting in the mud and just keep it nice and clean and in a nice spot. Whereas if you are at a campsite or at home and you're done using your traditional style, you're gonna have to store these somewhere, so you'll either find a spot in your truck or your RV. But again, these do have to go somewhere, they can't just live on there. Setting up a traditional style also requires adjusting the pitch. That way, the ball's gonna be at a nice spot when that's tensioned up. Well, you can see, our Continuum already has that pitch. So, when you hook up and use that hydraulic cylinder to add pressure, it's going to stabilize that out. So, that's one less thing that you have to worry about. To adjust height on a standard one, you are gonna have to take these bolts off and retorque them down, whereas we just have quick-release linchpins here that allows us to raise and lower as necessary to match the height of our truck and trailer combo. The traditional style, also, hooking up, you're gonna have to get your arms in place and then you're going to ratchet or pry the chain to get that tension in place, and this one just makes it a lot easier. One side here, I can just simply load this into place. We're gonna see that this clips in, you know that it's secure. And then all that's left to do, get the rest of your components set up, pump it to your required psi and you're good to go. Now, speaking of that pump, this is gonna mount onto your trailer and you have a little bit of customization, as far as where you can mount it, which is really nice. And the great part about this is it's gonna be no maintenance. And to get your pressure, pretty easy. You have a thumbscrew and you just close this up. You can also extend the arm. It's gonna make pumping that much easier. (pump clacking) (cylinder squeaking) And what that's doing is drawing that cylinder up and allowing that pressure to kind of offset to the head, bringing our truck to a nice level stance and also, just taking that pressure and allowing our truck to do a little bit more work with this trailer. Now, traditional styles, you're relying on tension and prying those chains over, where it's really hard to recreate hydraulic pressure, and that's where this one really shines because you can adjust that tongue weight. Now, for our application, 1,000 pounds seems to be pretty proper. So, I can go ahead and store my handle. And as I bump down one more time to get this in place, it is gonna bump that up. No my worries, you can get that dialed back in by just slowly releasing the thumbscrew and we can bring it right there. There's also a jam nut here so you can tighten this down and it's not gonna be moving if someone bumps it. So, another just added benefit of the Continuum is gonna be built-in sway control. Now, your typical system here, you can see this ear that's off of here, you're gonna be needing to pick up an additional sway control arm that's gonna just kind of act as a strut to kinda balance it out. And the best method of preventing this is obviously having your trailer loaded properly, but sometimes roads are not very forgiving. So, having built-in sway control, which means, with our single pivot, it's gonna want to keep it in line for you and keep the trailer straight. It's one less thing that you have to worry. You just set this up and go. No extra components to pick up to add on. Now, not only do you not have to pick up an extra component for that sway control, but it also means that you can back up no problem with this. Whereas some of your other styles, with that added sway control, means that if you jack knife the trailer, it's going to damage it. So, it's really not suggested. Sometimes, you can go in a straight line, but as far as turning, it's kinda off the books. You have to unhook your bars sometimes. And that's just a little bit more headache that you don't have to worry about with the Continuum. Now, with the arms, you are using friction on a traditional style to really get that weight off. And with that friction, you have metal on metal with those chains, you're gonna hear some noise. So, if you've ever heard a truck or driven a truck with weight distribution and you made that turn, you're gonna hear that (imitates metal squeaking) clunking and it's perfectly safe, but it is kind of concerning. This one doesn't have any noise, so it's just a little bit nicer of a towing experience overall. Now, what makes the Continuum be able to do what it can do in a small package and get the job done is the fact that these light flex technology bars are made from composites. So, that allows you for five times the flexibility of your standard steel but a similar strength. Another thing that's really great about this system is the overall setup's really easy. It's really gonna work with a lot of different travel trailers and you have a little bit of customization. But overall, you can have this knocked out pretty quickly all with a 9/16 wrench, so it makes it really easy. There's no drilling required, all the brackets will bolt up to your trailer, so you are able to get on the road quicker. But also, once it's all set up, everything is on our driver's side. So, the adjustment here is gonna be done pretty easily. And also, separating the head, you have a nice little latch to unlock that, but you don't have to go side to side, getting both bars set up, so you're gonna be able to hit the road quicker. I think, really, overall, you have a lot of things that make this stand out over your traditional that B&W's really done a good job to eliminate. But also, something that you really don't consider is if you buy this and you change travel trailers regularly, that's fine, this is gonna work with it and be able to adjust to that. And even if you go to a gooseneck or a fifth wheel later on and a different style, you can sell this Continuum to someone else that has a travel trailer and they're gonna be able to use it. It's not stuck to the trailer. So, that's something to think about long term as well. It goes also saying that this is made by B&W, which all of their products that we've handled here, I can speak highly of and mostly it's just the quality that you see right out the gate, everything is really nice. Fit and finish, the instructions, they've really done their homework to make sure that this is an awesome system that's gonna last a lifetime. So, going along with that, you do have a lifetime warranty and it's made in the USA so the quality really shows and you're gonna notice it out on the road. Now, speaking of that, we're gonna take this out on the road with Shane who's used a traditional style for a while and this is his camper, so we're gonna see what he thinks about it. We just got back from our test drive, we got to see a bunch of different bumps, highway driving and some back road driving all while pulling the Flagstaff, which is Shane's trailer. He's used to towing this regularly and has had a traditional style of weight distribution on it for many years. He's also been the test subjects and test driver for testing out all the different brands of weight distribution here. just for our own information here at etrailer. So, Shane, compared to all of the weight distribution systems you've used, what do you notice about this one What stands out I think what stands out the most is, one, how easy it is put on. Two, with being able to test this against all the other ones that we did the test on, you can definitely tell the difference of how it rides, the feeling you get in the truck, the difference between having spring bars on, to chains, to this system, the Continuum. So, as far as this system, I really like it. I think it's higher on the scale of weight distribution hitches I would put on my vehicle. How much noise did you have while turning Like Brad said, this is actually my camper. When I bought it, the weight distribution that came with it was the Equal-i-zer, which are spring bars that go on L-brackets on the frame rails. When you turn, those make a lot of noise because the friction in that is what is the sway prevention. With these, your sway prevention is actually the pressure on the bars that are already on there, so you don't get any noise. You don't have any loud banging or clanking around when you're turning corners or backing up or anything like that. So, that's another great thing about this system. Now, while out on our drive, we made a few stops and we we're able to adjust the pressure on the fly. So, it was interesting, we started at about 1,400 psi and it rode pretty well. It settled out quick. But some of the bumps, you can definitely feel it. It's a little bit more sturdy and especially, I was in the back seat, you're gonna feel that a little bit more. Now, bringing that pressure down is as easy as a turn of a knob and that really smoothed it out. Now, you do have a little bit of a ripple effect, but it's less jarring. So, you can really dial it in, while out on the road, at the turn of a knob or just the pump of the handle. So, that's a great part, too. It's not necessarily you're stuck with what's there. You can really dial it in to make sure you get the best, comfortable towing experience possible. To get everything set up, we are gonna need to have the trailer and the tow vehicle here on a nice, flat surface and we're gonna wanna make sure that we level out our trailer as perfectly as possible. So, I'm gonna get ours lowered down to where it's perfect based on our level. Now, if you don't have a level on your camper, you can always put a level on the coupler of the frame of the trailer or you can measure the front and back of the trailer and make sure it's nice and even. So, now we're gonna take our head unit and put it in your hitch and we're gonna make sure that we have everything aligned on this end because we do have some adjustment here. And what we're gonna do is measure from the ground to the top of the coupler, and then from from the ground to the top of the ball. Now, what you're looking for is them to be pretty close, but the ball should be about an inch to two higher than the coupler. And mostly that's just for when it attaches here, it's gonna kinda weigh that truck down and we'll be able to even that out. Now, to get your adjustments, you can always take these linchpins out. And then you can pull these pins, which these are nice stainless pins here, heavy-duty, nice grip on them and you can adjust accordingly. You do have a decent amount of adjustment here, so make sure that yours is set up properly. Now, based on our measurements, we can stand to go up one, so it's gonna be pretty easy to do. We'll just take our linchpins out. (metal clanks) And then we'll just slide this up and get our pins back in place, and then we'll remeasure. (metal clacks) (linchpin clicks) So, now that we're happy with our measurement, we can start installing the weight distribution on the trailer side. Now, we're gonna start by putting the pump in place. Now, before we get our pump installed, we do need to check for some clearances. And the reason is the pump is going to be attached to the hydraulic cylinder, which is gonna live right in this area. And you do wanna make sure that it's gonna be compatible, so double-check. You're gonna take a measurement here. You wanna have at least six to nine inches in this space. You do have some adjustability, but it does need to go in here. You also need to have at least 2 1/2 inches of space here to allow our bracket to mount up. So, if you need to move your tanks, by all means. You might have to move the tray that they sit in, but it's gonna be dependent on your trailer. And we also need to determine exactly where we wanna mount our pump. And this has a nice bracket here with our bolt that we're gonna be using. This is gonna sandwich around the frame of the trailer here. Now, when placing it, obviously you wanna make sure that you're gonna be able to tighten it. And you may be concerned about the handle being in the way, but not to worry. As long as you have enough clearance to slide this out, you're able to pump from this angle. So, kind of figure out what works best for you and then we'll just go ahead and get our clamp here. You'll see that this bottom one does have to go in the bottom hole and then we'll just press up and then figure out where we need to align this to tighten it around our frame. You can see, here's our breakaway switch. We shouldn't have any problems. I'm gonna just make sure that I'm not pinching these wires. And you can just start a couple threads here with that flange nut and that's gonna allow us to slide that up, and you'll see that this has just a groove portion here. So, if we kinda get this set up, we should be able to drop our pump in from the outside. (metal clanking) So, I'm just gonna push up from the bottom and determine the tightest spot that we can get this bolt to pass through to where it's going to hold this in place and sandwich on our frame nice and tight. So, with that in place, I'll go ahead, put our other flange nut and just hand tighten this in place for now. Now, the whole process is really making sure that you're happy exactly where it's mounted, so you may need to move some of your components. We went ahead and moved our battery box and just kinda centered it up to give us that room. But overall, you're gonna wanna try to stay away, obviously, from your propane. That way, you're not making interference when using the handle. And this one I like because it leaves us just a little bit of space here. And when we need to use it, we can extend this out, making it a lot easier. So, we're able to really gain access to our pump whenever we need to. Now, once you're happy with where you've decided to mount it, make sure that you have this nice and squared up with the frame, you wanna tighten this evenly, too. So, you may need to put a wrench on the other side, but 9/16 is gonna get this snug down. (driver tool roaring) And I'm just gonna kinda alternate side to side, just to make sure that we're evenly tightening this. And also, just double-checking to make sure everything's squared up. We don't want this crooked or this bracket to not be parallel with our other one. Now, that we're happy, I've gone ahead and just snug those down, alternating on each side. I'm gonna come back with my torque wrench and just make sure that these are properly torqued down. Now again, you may need to put a wrench on these inside ones here just to get that properly torqued. You can find the torque settings in the instruction manual, so just follow those. (torque wrench clacks) Now, your pump might not have already been attached to your bracket. Ours was, so I obviously didn't have too much issue getting this mounted up even with this, and I kinda like the fact of having it on here 'cause you know exactly where it's gonna be. But if you need to, you can go ahead and get your pump mounted up to your bracket. At this point, we're gonna be mounting up our cylinder to our top bracket here. So, we're gonna pass this up through where it's gonna mount. Just gotta make sure that all your cables are kind of in a nice, safe place, and you might have to modify a little bit. Your cylinder's gonna kinda sit there in an angle and you're gonna want this fitting on the back towards the trailer side. And then we're gonna have our breather tube here off to the right, or at least in this configuration, where I have it. So, we're gonna go ahead and get this bolted in. So, we have our large pin and a cotter pin, but we need to pass it up right here. So, let's do that now. And our clearance issues came from this plate. It kinda went all the way down. Your trailer may be different. But I just went ahead with an angle grinder, cut this out and filed it down. Now, you're gonna wanna make sure that you still have room for your lines to pass through. And also, if you are cutting, make sure you go back with a little bit of paint so that way it doesn't turn into rust long term. (metal clanks) So, we'll pass this up and then we'll get this aligned. It can get a little cumbersome here, but it should drop into this section. Grab your pin, pass this through. (metal clanking) And then once passed through, finish it up with that cotter pin. Now, if you do have an underslung trailer and you've picked up that kit, you do have an extension that you're gonna be attaching at this point. So, if you have that extension, make sure you put that in and cotter pin it up. Now, ours is just a standard trailer so we don't have to worry about that, so we'll move right along. We're gonna take our long bolts and our bracket here and this plate's gonna just slide over, and this is how we're gonna clamp up to the frame of our trailer. So, go ahead, you can put that in both sides. (metal clanks) And you'll see that this is slotted, that's gonna allow us to really get this cinched up nice and tight against the trailer, but make sure that your bracket is centered up, too. So, you can measure from each side and slide that over as you need to. And you're also gonna wanna have it a little bit further back if you can. If you don't have clearance issues, the further back is gonna be better. It's just gonna put that cylinder in a slightly better position. We have our brackets for the bottom here. And depending on your trailer coupler height, that's gonna determine the way that you put the bracket. So, ours here, if I was to slide this up, you can see, even once we tighten the nut, it may not cinch it down all the way. So, what you can do is you can go ahead and flip that over and that's gonna allow that nut to engage and tighten down. So, at this point, we're just gonna kinda put these on and hand thread and leave it loose for now. And you can do this on both sides of the trailer. If you had to remove your propane tank tray, you can go ahead and reinstall it at this time. I will recommend, though, getting this kind of aligned. Again, just double-checking your measurements side to side, and again, going far back as possible. Now, once you're happy with that, you can go ahead and snug it down. We're gonna be coming back with a torque wrench, so you don't have to get crazy here. And again, same as before, alternate, and I'm gonna try my best. Since this is elongated to where we can slide it, we're gonna put this against the frame on the outside here nice and taut. (driver tool roaring) And once you have everything lined up, your brackets are even with each other, the bolt's go in perfectly perpendicular with your bracket, you're gonna wanna go ahead and use the torque settings found in the instruction manual to get these torqued down. (torque wrench clacking) Now, we need to retract our cylinder, so we're just gonna turn this thumbscrew until it's tight and then get our handle and pump this up. We should have our airline not attached, so this will draw up. It's not gonna build pressure on the gauge. Just go until it bottoms out. (pump clacking) (cylinder squeaking) Now, you're gonna wanna make sure that your lines are run properly. We have our vent tube here. And when putting it into a push-connect fitting, if you've never done this before, you really want a nice, square cut. We sell tubing cutters and that's gonna make sure that it's not gonna pinch this down and create a rough edge and cause an air leak over time. So, get a nice, clean edge, all the burrs kind of taken off of there so it's smooth. And your push-connect, you just simply push in. You should kinda feel it snap in. Give it a quick tug just to make sure that it's gonna be locked in place, and you can go ahead and make sure that it's attached to the cylinder in the same way. Now, at this point, let's go ahead, we'll get our trailer raised up and we're gonna attach it to our tow vehicle and get it hooked up. (jack whirring) Now, once you're coupled, you're gonna wanna raise your jack up enough to get the rest of our assembly in place. (jack whirring continues) Now, this is our load bar assembly. We have this slid in place. You're gonna want the pin towards our hydraulic cylinder and we're gonna get that mounted up first. So, you can pull the linchpin out and then pull these pins out. Now, these little center sections here are gonna be some bushings that kinda tighten up, but we're gonna be feeding this through. So, you can leave this one on. (shoes squeaks) And we're gonna start off with the middle measurement here and slide this through. Make sure that bushing passes through the opening. (metal clanks) And then on the other side, we're gonna feed this from the outside and get our linchpin in place. And you'll know that you have it pushed in all the way when that hole's accessible to be able to put the pin in. If not, you may have to adjust that a little bit. But now that we have this attached, we can go ahead, slide this and get it into our head assembly. Now, there is this pin here and we're gonna be locking that into place. So, you can go ahead, take this, slide it back. So, with that attached, we're gonna go ahead, open up our thumbscrew on the pump and we're gonna look for about five inches of the shaft to show. So, open that, it should start dropping. If you need to, you can kinda help it along, too, and go for that five inches, give or take. It might not drop down as easy as you think, so you might have to kinda work at it to get this to drop down, but that should get easier with time. And once it's all assembled, it's not a big deal here. So, what we're gonna do is put our load bar assembly into our head. And you'll see that we have this pin here that's spring-loaded and that should drop into here. (metal clanks) We'll hear that click in. So, that's a nice visual and audible queue that you know that it's locked into place. Now, if you are struggling to get this in at any angle, you can go ahead and move the pin on the cylinder and that's gonna adjust the angle a little bit and make it a little bit easier to pop in. Now, we'll get ready to put our fork holder in place. And this is gonna go around the jack and pretty much just hold up our load bar assembly when we're not using it and make sure that it just doesn't drag on the ground because it's gonna be suspended by the cylinder. But this front portion here is gonna sit in the gravel or mud or pavement, it doesn't really matter, this is gonna allow it to hold it up in place, just to kinda keep it a little bit nicer. So, what we're gonna do is lower your jack down. You don't want to necessarily raise it up, but just get it to where it's flat on the ground. (jack whirring) And then what we're gonna do is uncouple the load bar assembly. Now, there is a tab here, you're just gonna push this up and that's gonna undo our spring-loaded lock in place here. And so, this is kinda what it would look like before. And pretty much all our fork holders gonna do is just create a little resting spot for this to sit up here. Now, we wanna determine a good spot for it to where it's still easily able to be moved to attach. So, what I'll do here is take our U-bolt and this is gonna work with two-inch jacks. If you have anything larger than that, unfortunately, there's nothing currently for it. But I'm gonna go ahead and just get my 9/16 nuts kinda just hand tighten on here to where it'll be snug. And that way, I can really kinda mock up exactly where I wanna mount it. So, at this point, you can kind of lift this up. You should have a gap in between the head assembly and the jack to be able to just slide this back and have a resting spot for it. Now again, you wanna kinda make sure that you're kinda playing around with it to where it's easy to hook up at a good height for you. And I'm pretty happy with this overall. So, I'll go ahead, I'll put this back up so there's no weight on that fork assembly. Just make sure this is nice and straight and squared up against it, and we're gonna go ahead with our torque wrench and use the torque settings found in the instruction manual to get this torqued down. Now, to make it a little bit easier to torque this down but also make sure that this is not gonna cause any clearance issues, I'm gonna raise my jack up. (jack whirring) (torque wrench clacks) Now, at this point, we're gonna want to kind of mimic getting ready to hit the road and tow. So, you can hook all of your accessories up like you would, your safety chains. And the main thing that you're looking for is that that you won't have any interference with the lines. Or just kinda pretend like you're using the system without hitting the road because you wanna make sure that you're able to live with it. But other than that, that's really gonna do it for the installation portion. Now, we do need to dial in the weight for our psi and we're gonna show you how to do that, too. Now, the main thing I look for is that our lines are tucked decently enough to where they're not gonna make contact with anything, but also you're gonna wanna make sure there's no chaffing that's going. So, as you're going down the road, you don't want this airline to burst or your hydraulic line. Now, these are super durable, but also, over time, that vibration can wear this out and minimalize the usability of your weight distribution if they become damaged. So, make sure they're nice and clean, zip tie them up as necessary. Now that we have everything hooked up, we're happy with the clearances, we're not seeing any issues, we're gonna go ahead and detach everything. And that way, we can start getting our measurements for our truck and we can dial that in on our pump. Now, to determine the amount of psi that we're gonna put on our pump, there's two different ways that you can kinda get that measurement. And depending on your vehicle, you may or may not have an FALR, which is your front axle load restoration, which is the amount of pressure that's put on the rear and transferred to the front in a percentage to determine that it's gonna be back to a normal towing capacity. I looked in our owner's manual of our 2017 Silverado 2500 HD and could not find anything. So, the other way that we've always done, airbags or any weight distribution style, is to measure the front wheel well with it uncoupled. So, we've separated it from our trailer, we're gonna measure from the ground to the top of the fender. Now, if you do have your FALR, you're able to use the chart that's included in the instructions to determine exactly kinda where you need to be or at least get you in a go or no go gauge. So, B&W does require a minimum of 50% and no more than 100%, so let's get this dialed in. We're gonna do, again, the old-school method. So, uncouple your trailer and make sure you're chocked and go ahead and measure your wheel wells. Now, to ensure that you're accurate on these measurements, make sure that your truck and trailer are loaded just as you would before hitting the road. So, from the ground to the top of our fender, we're looking at about 42 1/4. So, let's hook up our trailer. Now, once we put our trailer back on, and we can see the truck start to squat, and now our measurements at 43. So, we're gonna try to pump that psi back to restore it back to that original number. So, get everything coupled up on your trailer and then we can start pumping it up. Make sure your thumbscrew is closed all the way, and that way we can start building pressure. Then take your handle and this extends out, making it a lot easier. You just kinda, you can see this little notch, it clicks into place, just twist that, it extends it out and then we can put it to this part, and we have some mobility here, which is really nice. So, we're gonna just start pumping it up. (pump clacking) (cylinder squeaking) A couple of things to point out. Now, if you've gone ahead and pumped it up and you're still haven't restored that front wheel well measurement back to its original setting and you're maxed out on your cylinder, you can go ahead, release the pressure, drop this down, and then you're gonna move that pin to the lower one. It's gonna give it more travel to be able to adjust that load. And if you've put too much pressure in it, not to worry, just simply undo our thumbscrew, you can see it dropping nice and slow, to where you can really fine-tune exactly where you want it. Now, once you are perfectly happy with your setup, I recommend taking it out and driving and see if you want to adjust a little bit more to make some differences. And once you have it dialed in, you're ready to go. If you're using the same tow vehicle, you'll be able to use the log that's included in the instruction manual. That'll give you the date, the vehicle, the trailer. If you have your FALR percent, you can put that in there and also that psi rating. Now that our psi dialed in, I'm really excited to take this out and test it. So, I'm gonna go ahead and get my propane covers, my battery box back into place and tie up any loose ends that you might have, then start enjoying your new weight distribution system. And that was a look and setup of the B&W Continuum weight distribution system.

Customer Reviews

B&W Continuum Weight Distribution System w/ Sway Control - Underslung - 16K GTW, 1.6K TW - BW53FR

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (36 Customer Reviews)

The Continuum is so quiet, you just might forget you have it. No more snapping bars up onto noisy brackets. Easy to install, distributes weight with precision, controls sway, and is easily adjustable. 2-5/16" Ball and 2-1/2" shank included.


I was really debating this purchase but I am so glad I did! Went on with little effort and compared to the old system I had - and I mean OLD! - the B&W Continum is light years ahead. Took it out today for a test run and it preformed fantastic. No more sway when getting passed, no more having to stop and take sway control bars off before backing up! I pull a KZ Sportsmen 34 ft with a RAM 1500 and it was one hand on the wheel most of the time. Great product from Made in the USA! Also great service from etrailer - ordered on a Sunday had it Tuesday the same week!


Installation went well but with mine being an underslung trailer there were some challenges getting it set up. B&W had me text them photos and got an engineer on the phone with me. I can't say enough about their service, they are awesome. He looked at my picture and made some other suggestions to make the hitch work better with my trailer.

I took the trailer out for a test run for about 20 miles. We had very little wind, but the hitch overall performed really well. It was one hand on the steering wheel for me; a very enjoyable ride. I was able to pull into a gas station and make a few fine adjustments in the span of 5 minutes which is what I really love. With my other old-style hitch when I stopped to make adjustments, it took 30 minutes. This is a very well-made product, and I'm looking forward to camping with it soon! I'm running an F150 with a 2015 Jayco 29QBS.


I was on the fence about buying this hitch because of the bew technology and the price but I'm glad I did. Right out of the box you can tell this is a quality hitch. All the components look very well made. Installation was very simple. I had to relocate my brake safety switch and move my propane tanks back and I still completed the installation in a little over an hour. I took my camper for a 50 mile test drive in 20 mph sustained winds and the hitch performed flawlessly. The best part of this hitch is no more spring bars. So far I'm very happy with my purchase.


It did phenomenal. We were in back roads, 40 mph cross winds on the highways and it handled it all very well. Set up was nice and easy. Nicole R at etrailers was amazing and made sure I got it on time for my trip.


So far, I’ve towed 1000 miles with a 2018 Diesel F350 SB pulling a 30 foot TT that weighs about 10k lbs on highway and single lane roads on level and through mountains. The Continuum certainly is easy to hook up and unhook, it helped ride quality by reducing porpoising and sway. Made truck suck and bump non existent. Very easy to fine tune by pulling over with a half pump or to relieve pressure. The instructions, materials and workmanship of the parts were very good.
Overall it made my ride quality much better and sets up easier than most other wdh. This hitch certainly has a higher price point but the easy adjustability helped me justify paying the higher price for it.


The hitch arrived a few days earlier than original estimate which was great. Two packages that were packaged well and arrived in excellent shape.

Installation was a breeze. It took a little longer than estimates in the instructions since I took my time and went very slow to make sure 1) I did it correctly and 2) I understood how the different parts worked together. I did have to relocated a couple wiring items to ensure they didn't interfere with the hitch set up. They were minor, and truthfully moved to ensure I didn't get a pinch or rub on any wiring in the future. They weren't really in the way for install, but while I was at it, I wanted to make sure I didn't get a surprise 1,000 miles down the road with an unintended rub, so I just re-routed to a more suitable location.

Connected the trailer and applied the correct pressure (after doing the math), and did a 10 mile trial run. Calculations were spot on and applied at 75% FALR. The next day, did a longer trial run at both city road speed (avg. 35mph) and around 25 miles at highway speeds (65mph). Was a breezy day (20kt crosswinds), and the truck/trailer performed remarkably well and was extremely stable. Tow vehicle is a Ford F150 Waldoch Package and with Ford's Max Trailer Pkg (14K max) pulling Grand Design travel trailer, 23BHE, at 8K tow weight, hitch weight a bit over 800lbs.

I am extremely pleased with the purchase of the B&W Continuum hitch. It is just so easy to set up, disconnect, and adjust. And it is solid...on the road and in its construction....very well made and heavy duty construction.

B&W has hit it out of the park with this one!!

Mike Robberson


I recently purchased a B&W Continuum WDH. To be brief the install was a bit more difficult on my Rockwood 2508BS. The propane tanks are on a u shaped channel that had to be cut as shown in one of the videos. My battery box was also in the way and I had to drill through the tongue with one of the mounting bolts for the hydraulic unit. Took it on my first trip of about 120 miles this weekend and I am very impressed. Most of my driving took place on some winding secondary roads. The pull was comfortable with less bounce than my previous 4 point anti-sway WDH. (I did with my previous hitch, have the right sized hitch set up and dialed in for my trailer.) I encountered some stiff side wind and again no sway. Passing semi trucks coming from the other direction or when on a 4 lane hwy with them passing me, again no sway problems. To illustrate the difference, with my previous hitch, my dw could not sew while we were traveling because of bounce induced by the stiffness of the old hitch, now she is able to with no difficulties. For me the biggest plus is setup and takedown. No longer do I need to jack up the tongue after hitching to the ball and then prying on or off the heavy spring bars. This chore is even more difficult when the TV is at an angle to the trailor. I simply pressurize the hydraulics and I am done. Much simpler and less work. Well worth the cost over the 6-8 hundred dollar steel spring bar brands. Yes I highly recommend this hitch.


Unboxing I found the pump release valve was bent looked like it was cut I did straighten it up so far it seems to be OK have traveled a little over 300 miles performed really well with the Heartland Torque T 314 it smoothed the ride out tremendously the handling was a big improvement over my last hitch and very quite ride great hitch


Evrything looks amazing and so simple wish i could have used it it won't work because my non removable got pad is 8in and the space between the tension bars is 6 3/4in. So unfortunately have to send it back and go with an air bag system.


B&W probides such a quality product. Im always proud to support the company. I'll be testing out the new hitch this weekend. Also thank you to etrailer for being so thorough with tracking and following up with my satisfaction on every order.


This hitch is the bomb. As soon as I got it I installed it. Pretty easy, I barley glanced at the directions due to watching a few install videos on YouTube. I had to make a few very slight modifications to my trailer but zero issues. I highly recommend this product.


Ordered Continuum Weight Distribution System on 4-16-23. Received 4-20-23. Installed on camper 4-22-23. EASY. Installed in one hour. I did watch the installation video 4 times while waiting for delivery. Everything fit perfect with no installation issues. Taking camper on 1200 mile trip this week. Can't wait to see how it performs.


In short this delivers everything as described in the B&W literature. My trailer feels like it is on rails behind me and firmly planted to the ground. I just returned from a 300 mile trip with both rough and smooth interstates, windy mountain highways and WV curvy 2 lane roads. Felt far more confident than without it.


Great product etrailer and bandw top notch companies!


Very good quality, performers better than expected. The only thing I would add is locking hardware. Nylocks for the actuator mount and lock washers on the pump bolts. I'm a licensed A&P mechanic so I like hardware that stays tight. Otherwise this product is great


I received the B&W Continuum today and thus far I am impressed by the construction quality, the welds and the fact that items are powder coated. I am thrilled that there are so few pieces to the unit. My previous hitch had many parts to it and extremely heavy.
I will post my assessment of the Continuum after installation and a road trip.


Great hitch. Fairly easy insulation.








Show More Reviews

See what our Experts say about this B and W Weight Distribution Hitch

  • How to Tell if Trailer is Standard or Underslung for B&W Continuum Weight Distribution System
    The vast majority of trailers on the market use a standard coupler (installed on top of the trailer frame) which is compatible with the B&W Continuum Weight Distribution System w/ Sway Control # BW28FR. Underslung couplers aren't as common but are still used fairly often. These have the couplers mounted from the bottom of your trailer frame and are compatible with the B&W Continuum Weight Distribution System w/ Sway Control # BW53FR instead. I'm attaching pictures of both styles of couplers...
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  • Recommended Weight Distribution System for a Trailer w/ Different Weights
    4,500 lbs to 7,500 lbs is a pretty wide range of weight. Tongue weight is typically 10% - 15% of your trailer's total weight and in your case that's 450 lbs - 1,050 lbs. The B&W Continuum Weight Distribution System w/ Sway Control item # BW78FR is going to be your only option. It has a tongue weight range of 600 lbs - 1,600 lbs and it won't feel too stiff when you are hauling a lighter load. The B&W Continuum item # BW78FR has built in sway control and will definitely level out the sag...
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  • Selecting the Correct B&W Continuum Weight Distribution System
    To select the correct B&W Continuum Weight Distribution System for your needs you will first need to determine if you have a standard coupler(mounts on top of trailer frame rails) or an underslung coupler(mounts on the bottom of the trailer frame rails). We have both types available with either a 2" or 2-1/2" receiver for your truck and they are all rated for a trailer with a tongue weight from 600-1,600lbs. Standard Coupler 2" Receiver System # BW78FR 2-1/2" Receiver System # BW28FR Underslung...
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  • Will B&W Continuum Weight Distribution System Work with Center Frame Piece on Trailer Tongue
    The B&W Continuum Weight Distribution System part # BW78FR requires at least 24" of space on the frame directly behind the coupler and along the side a few inches back from there. This works with most trailers but for some it will not and, unfortunately, this sounds like the case for you (I included a picture of a trailer it will not fit for reference). However, you can either make modifications to the frame or choose a different system as there is not a workaround for this, nor is there...
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  • Recommended Weight Distribution Hitch For Towing a Jayco Jay Feather 21MML Travel Trailer
    If you choose to use the B&W Continuum Weight Distribution System you will need the Underslung 2" Hitch Kit # BW88FR. The Kit # BW53FR you found while being for an underslung trailer coupler comes with a 2-1/2" shank which will not fit the receiver on either a Nissan Armada or Infiniti QX80. Personally I do not like the B&W system for both the ground clearance issue and the lack of sway prevention. B&W says by reducing rear end sag it prevents sway which I know is not always the case....
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  • Highest Weight Rated Weight Distribution System
    The highest rating weight distribution we have is the TorkLift Everest Superhitch part # TLWD1000 which has a tongue weight range of 1,500-3,000 lb but it would require your vehicle to have a Torklift Superhitch trailer hitch installed on it. The next highest option is the Blue Ox part # BXW2003 which has a tongue weight rating of 1,500 to 2,000 lbs. Both of these are not ideal for I-frames but if you boxed the I-frame it would be possible.
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  • Equal-i-zer Weight Distribution Hitch For 2019 Yukon Denali XL Towing 34 Foot Forest River Flagstaff
    I recommend the Equal-i-zer Weight Distribution # EQ37101ET for your 2019 GMC Yukon XL Denali hauling a Forest River Flagstaff weighing 8,300lbs with 830lbs of tongue weight. This hitch is rated for a trailer up to 10,000lbs with a tongue weight of 600-1,000lbs. It does not include a shank so you will be able to find a shank with the correct amount of drop from the list below. 1/4" to 4" of Drop # EQ90-02-4200 2-1/4" to 6" of Drop # EQ90-02-4300 5-1/4" to 9" of Drop # EQ90-02-4400 8-1/4"...
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Info for this part was:

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Video Edited:
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