Best Hitches for Travel Trailers

For a Smooth, Sway-Free Ride

You've just found the ultimate encyclopedia on everything related to hitches and towing. Here at etrailer.com, we've installed and tested just about every trailer weight distribution hitch there is. To spare you the time, we've put together a list of our top hitch picks for you (you're welcome) under $2,000. We've carefully weighed features like sway control, installation ease, and price to determine which hitches made the cut, and we've boiled it down to a few choices that are guaranteed to give you a smooth, sag-free, sway-free road trip with your travel trailer.

To make sure you're up to speed, here's a diagram of all the components that go into a travel trailer's hitch setup. Most setups feature a hitch receiver, shank, and spring bars.

Towing Setup - Hitch Receiver, Drop Hitch, Spring Bars

*NOTE: Ball mounts are often included in weight distribution hitch systems.

Without further ado, let's take a look at our favorite weight distribution hitches for travel trailers!

Weight Distribution Hitch

Why Choose This Hitch?

Equal-i-zer

Best Overall System

Reese Strait-Line

Best Sway Control

Fastway E-2

Best Value for Mid-Sized Trailers

Curt MV

Best Entry-Level Hitch

Equal-i-zer

WHAT WE LIKE: Best Overall System

This Is For You If:

You're someone who wants the best, especially when it comes to something you've already heavily invested in (like your trailer). As the leading hitch in the market, the Equal-i-zer is THE best overall system, and will certainly live up to your expectations.

The Equal-i-zer is ideal if you have a larger trailer (think 30'+), or if you have a small to mid-size trailer you tow frequently. The 4-point sway control will provide a great, controlled ride (if you're not familiar, 4-point systems provide 4 secure points of resistance on the trailer frame and head to prevent sway before it starts).

This system is also a great investment if you have surge brakes, since not all weight distribution hitches work with these. In most cases, if you have a large trailer, this is the system we recommend for you.

The Equal-i-zer's 4-point sway control system is one of the easiest sway control types to install.

This Is NOT For You If:

If you're looking for a budget buy for your small trailer, this isn't it. You really won't be able to get away from spending $400-$500 or more on a hitch if you have a large trailer, since you'll need a system with superior sway control. However, if you have a smaller trailer you don't plan on towing often, this system may be overkill.

Although the 4-point sway control system is relatively easy to install compared to other systems, the Equal-i-zer takes a few steps back with its traditional washer design (you'll have to add or remove washers from the included spacer to tilt the hitch during installation). This isn't difficult, per se, but it is time-consuming and tedious.

Reese Strait-Line

WHAT WE LIKE: Best Sway Control

This Is For You If:

Much like the Equal-i-zer, the Reese Strait-Line is a great option for you if you have a 30'+ travel trailer, or if you have a smaller camper you plan to tow frequently. The Reese Strait-Line's dual cam system offers the best sway control due to the hitch's unique construction (curved spring bars resting over a cam that provides serious resistance to prevent sway).

You might consider the Strait-Line over the Equal-i-zer if you plan on switching between trailers with differing weights, or purchasing a new trailer down the road, since the Strait-Line's spring bars are interchangeable. You can just purchase a new set of spring bars for the new trailer's tongue weight—no need to buy a whole new system.

This Is NOT For You If:

Like the Equal-i-zer above, this system is top of the line, so it may not be worth the investment if you have a smaller trailer you don't plan to tow often. The Strait-Line is also not compatible with surge brakes.

Although the serrated washers are a step up from the Equal-i-zer's traditional system, the Strait-Line's integrated dual-cam sway control is one of the most difficult systems to install. If you're looking for a quick and simple installation, this isn't it.

These are essentially the best two systems on the market, and this makes it a tough choice, even for us! Although the Equal-i-zer is widely acknowledged as the best overall system, there's no denying that the Strait-Line has a unique selling point with its dual-cam sway control system.

When helping our neighbors choose between systems, we typically fall back on these questions:

Do you have surge brakes? If so, go with the Equal-i-zer.
Is an easy installation important to you? The Equal-i-zer requires less fine-tuning.
Do you want the maximum possible sway control? The Strait-Line's dual cam setup has it.

Equalizer vs Reese Straight-Line Weight Distribution

Fastway E2

WHAT WE LIKE: Value Pick for Mid-Size to Larger Trailers

This Is For You If:

You have a mid-size trailer (24'-30') or a smaller trailer you tow frequently. Fastway's 2-point sway control system is a step up from traditional friction bars, but it's more cost-effective than the 4-point or dual cam sway control seen on the Equal-i-zer or Strait-Line. This makes the E2 ideal if you prefer a more budget-conscious choice. The E2 works with surge brakes as well.

2-point sway control systems, like their 4-point counterparts, are among the easiest systems to install.

This Is NOT For You If:

You have a very large trailer (about 30'+). There is no friction or tension built into the system's head, so sway can still occur, particularly on trailers of this size. Still, this hitch is not entry-level, so if you have a smaller camper you don't plan on towing frequently, you may want to consider an even more cost-effective bar-style system (see below).

This system's traditional washer head assembly is one of the more tedious installation tasks, so if you're looking for a quick and simple install, look for an upgraded washer assembly like serrated washers or a system with preset settings.

Curt MV

WHAT I LIKE: Best Entry-Level for Small Trailers

This Is For You If:

If you're looking for an entry-level, budget-friendly hitch, consider the Curt MV. The MV is best suited for smaller campers (under 24'), utility trailers, flatbed trailers, etc. that you don't plan on towing too frequently.

Installation for the MV is more difficult than for other systems, so this is probably the system for you only if you're an undeterrable DIYer (or someone else is installing it for you). After all, it only has to be installed once.

This Is NOT For You If:

You have a larger camper (over 24') or a trailer with surge brakes. If you tow your trailer frequently and can swing the additional upfront cost, you may want to consider one of the other systems on our list.

The MV is a friction bar style system, which means it uses friction pads inside the unit to create resistance once sway starts. It doesn't prevent sway, just corrects it after it starts. If you're looking for superior sway control, you probably want to consider at least a 2-point system.

The MV might also not be for you if you're hesitant about a DIY installation. Between the MV's traditional washer assembly method and the friction bar style of sway control, this is one of the more difficult hitches to install.

About Amber S.

As a content writer for etrailer, I might spend my morning loading and unloading a bike on five different bike racks to figure out which is easiest to use. I might be in the parking lot, taking pictures of an impressive RV battery setup our techs came across in the shop and discussing the benefits of the setup with the owner. I might spend an afternoon in a manufacturer training classes for some hands-on experience with new products, and then sit down to assemble all this information into a coherent article.

At etrailer, one of our core values is that we are always learning, and I learn something new every day. I start each morning with the goal in mind of taking all of this information and figuring out the best way to answer the questions people ask us (and the ones they don’t know to ask yet), and helping people get the solutions they need to make their lives easier, safer, and more fun. I’m a DIYer at heart, so it brings me great joy to help a fellow DIYer find what they’re looking for, whether that’s a product, an answer, or a community.

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Written by: Amber S.

Updated on: 11/30/22

Chris H.

10/14/2023

I have a 2022 F150 Lariat with max. tow package and 4x4. We were looking at the Flagstaff 2024 Super-Lite, Model 26RBWS. (HITCH WEIGHT 840 lb. UVW 6,641 lb.) First off is this package do-able? Is this a safe tow? what equipment do you recommend for towing this RV (hitch, etc.). I tow a Ranger 621 VS boat that is fully rigged, 5 group 31 batteries, all my fishing gear and 56 gallons of fuel. I don't have any issues with this rig. I really would appreciate your professional opinion be it good or bad on the RV choice. I want to be safe! Thank you!

Mike L.

10/16/2023

@ChrisH The GVWR of the RV you're looking at is around 8600 lbs, which is what it would weigh if it's fully loaded to capacity. The towing capacity of your truck will depend on cab configuration, engine displacement, and the rear gear ratio. Check out your owner's manual to find your actual towing capacity to see if this is doable. We'd recommend a weight distribution/sway control system like the Equal-i-zer # EQ37120ET which is compatible with trailers with tongue weights between 800-1200 lbs.

John

7/20/2023

I have a 2005 Nissan Armada, 4wd. Looking at 2003 Thor Wanderer Toy Hauler, 24 ft. Or another similar. Empty weight 5,090 lbs. What should I be looking at?

Mike L.

8/2/2023

@John I'd recommend a weight distribution system. The system you'll need will depend on the tongue weight of the loaded up trailer (including any toys in the rear garage). You'll want to choose a system that has an effective range for the fully loaded tongue weight of your trailer. I'd recommend going with a system that includes an integrated sway control system like Equal-i-zer. Given the empty weight you mentioned, the loaded tongue weight will likely be between 600-1000 lbs. If that's the case, go with # EQ37100ET. I'll link to an article that explains how to determine the loaded tongue weight as well as a video that explains how the Equal-i-zer works.

Helpful Links

faq-how-to-determine-trailer-tongue-weight.aspx

tv-review-Equal~i~zer-weight-distribution-system-eq37100et.aspx

Richard K.

9/5/2022

looking for hitch for 34f travel trailer toy hauler, made by keystone called - impact weight is 10,000 empty. I haul 1200 lb goldwing trike in it. all help would be appreciated. too much movement with hitch i have now. Richard Kresse

David B.

9/5/2022

Hey Richard, I need to know your tongue weight as well so I can get the right fit for you.

Helpful Links

faq-2-steps-weight-distribution-size.aspx

faq-choose-weight-distribution-hitch-5-tips.aspx

Lee H.

6/26/2022

I have full size Ford F150, 11,600/1,160 pound rating. Trailer is 23' with 4,000 GVW, so at 10% is 400 pound on the tongue. Looking for a WD type hitch. Looking at all the ratings, gross weights, tongue weights, and back up weights, They all have windows to choose from. Why would you have 300,400,500,600 tongue weights for 1 trailer? Why have several backup weights? Could someone shed some light on these? Then I also might have more questions after an answer. Do you get a hitch over your trailer weights or as close as possible? What other weights should I be looking at? Thanks a head of time.

David B.

6/27/2022

You need to know the exact tongue weight, guessing or assuming isn't going to be a safe option here. You need a WD(weight distribution) hitch that is slightly over weight but not to much. I'll go off the 400lbs example you gave...A 400lbs tongue weight with a 4k trailer will get most benefit from a 600lbs WD hitch with a 6k capacity. The blue ox here is a great example # BLU36FR. The weights you see listed on the product pages are in the "safe" zone for that hitch. Meaning the hitch itself will not be overloaded and it won't overpower the trailer. We need a goldilocks zone.

Jim T.

4/20/2021

In the past I had a 29' Prowler and towed with a Reese Dual Cam hitch, an older one with gold colored cams. Towed great, no sway and saved our bacon in a full on panic stop. Sold the trailer with the hitch a few years ago. I now have a 21.5' Micro Mini, a different truck, and initially bought a Reese Straitline. It towed well was not effected by passing semis but had a a small amount of sway in cross winds and although I didn't notice in steering there was a frequent wiggle, especially going down hill. I have to make a sharp turn when backing into the parking place at my home and once dropped one of the spring bars onto the street because it over ran the cam. I have since replaced the hitch with an Equilizer and life is good. Easier to hook up, no chance of dropping a spring bar, no wiggle. Last fall I towed North out of the Columbia River Gorge which is known for high winds and on that day the wind was strong. Although I was bucking a side wind I had zero control problems with the Equilizer installed. For me and my trailer and truck, I feel that the Equilizer is the superior hitch.

Neil T.

3/28/2021

Hi, my wife and I recently bought our first travel trailer. The solution we need help with is this: we need to be able to open the truck tailgate to the fully dropped position while the truck is hitched to the trailer. The reason is that we have a "Decked" brand storage box in the bed of the truck. This has two drawers that pull out to the rear, and this is only functional when the tailgate is dropped all the way. Everything we need for a road side emergency is stored in these drawers, and we do not want to have to unhitch every time we need access. Our truck is a 2020 Ram 2500 (Off Road), our trailer is a Kodiak 2921 FKDS (dry weight about 6700 lbs) . Our current hitch that we bought with the trailer is the EZ2 round bar. Can you recommend a hitch that would work for our situation? Sway control is very important to us , and we do not want a hitch that requires us to remove parts before backing up the trailer. With my research so far the only possible solution I have found might be the Pro-Pride/Hensley hitch. These are both very expensive, and in one of your commentaries above you say that they are good hitches, just not the BEST solution. We are new to towing, so any help that you might be able to provide would be much appreciated. Thank you

Kef G.

3/30/2021

It sounds like you already have a setup that you're happy with, and the main reason for considering another WD system is for truck bed clearance. If that's the case, then you may only need to get a longer shank for your current WD system. As an example, the Equal-i-zer Weight Dist Shank, part # EQ90-02-4600, has a 6" advantage over the standard shank that comes with the e2 WD system. That may be the best solution for getting the clearance you need.

Neil T.

3/30/2021

@KefG Kef, thank you for taking the time to reply to our question. Your suggestion sounds like a simple fix. If we install this longer shank, will it increase or multiply the tounge weight that is applied to my truck hitch? I read on line that a square tube hitch extension does this, as the ball is moved further back from the truck there is greater leverage, and that you have to reduce the weight you are putting on the ball to avoid overloading the truck with additional weight. Does this same principle apply to using a longer shank? Or is the answer different because we are using a weight distribution hitch? Tounge weight is a concern for us, as the payload capacity is approx. 2,100lbs (yes, this is a 2500 series truck, but the heavier diesel engine strips about 500 lbs of capacity, and the softer "Off-Road" suspension also reduces cargo weight). We have decked box, fiber glass cap, cargo and two adults, good for about 900 lbs. This leaves us with a Maximum tounge weight of 1,200 lbs. Thank you for any information you can provide to help us work this out. Neil T.

Kef G.

4/1/2021

@NeilT Usually, extending your hitch out with a square tube, it doesn't increase the amount of weight on your hitch. Rather, it decreases the capacity of hitch, usually by 50%. That's the reason you have to be careful when using a hitch extender. That having been said, the longer shank that I recommended doesn't suffer from this problem. It works the same way as your existing shank. Of course, there may be slightly more sway because of the extension, but the built-in sway control of your WD system should offset this.

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