The most common reason for towing a vehicle is basic convenience. Having your everyday vehicle with you means that you don't have to manuever a large, unwieldy motor home through back roads or parking lots when driving to and from your campsite or heading out on errands.
You can use a trailer to tow your vehicle, or a tow dolly, but both of these options take up too much space at campsites and RV parks. A more convenient, space-saving method of towing your car is to use a tow bar. With a tow bar you can easily bring your everyday vehicle with you on your trips, quickly detach once you arrive at your destination, and store the towing system components out of the way until you're ready to hitch up and leave.
There are 5 basic components required to flat tow a vehicle ("dinghy") with an RV or other vehicle ("tow vehicle").
The tow bar is the most recognizable part of a towing system. It is designed to link your dinghy to your tow vehicle so that it can be
safely flat towed. The function of the tow bar is the same regardless of model or manufacturer. The differences lie in the type of mount, towing capacity and
basic design.
RV-mounted tow bars provide the most reliable, direct connection. Because this
type of tow bar inserts into your motor home's trailer hitch receiver, there is no need for that additional connection point that car-mounted models
require. Not having to use a coupler means that there is one less spot at which your system can become uncoupled. And there is no annoying rattle and play
like you may find with a coupler.
Using a hitch lock you can secure the tow bar to your receiver. And because most RV-mounted
tow bars can be safely stored on your motor home when they're not being used, you won't have to worry about packing away your tow system at the
campsite.
The benefits of an RV-mounted tow bar include:
Sturdy, stable connection - no coupler needed
Safe, secure storage
Lock tow bar to receiver with hitch lock
Fold tow bar up and stow it alongside motor home
Less hassle - no need to remove for storage; no need for separate ball mount and coupler
Easy to adjust - use a
hitch adapter to achieve the rise or drop required to match your dinghy's height
Car-mounted tow bars were the first introduced to the towing and RVing market.
They function the same as an A-frame trailer, attaching to the trailer hitch ball on your RV with an integrated coupler.
The benefits of a car-mounted tow bar include:
Economical models are made for occasional RVers
Integrated coupler can be locked to hitch ball for security
Couplers for 2" and 2-5/16" balls, as well as pintle hitches, are available
Design and Structure
The design and structure of tow bars varies between manufacturers. The basic configuration, though, is similar to that of an A-frame
trailer. The tow bar attaches to your dinghy at the ends of the tow bar arms. The other end of the bar then hitches up to your tow vehicle via either an
integrated coupler or by means of a receiver mount.
Crossbar vs. Hidden Brackets
Some tow bars include a crossbar that mounts between the arms near the connection point between your tow bar and dinghy. This is designed to lend extra support for your towing system.
Not all tow bars require this additional support. Some base plate kits are made to attach to your dinghy's frame in such a way as to provide enough support for it to be towed without the aid of a crossbar.
Fixed vs. Telescoping Arms
Some economical, car-mount tow bars are made with rigid arms that do not adjust.
Tow bars with adjustable arms are easier to hook up. You do not have to drive your dinghy into an exact position to connect your towing system rather; you pull the telescoping arm out, or push it back in, to get the length you need.
Extra Features of Tow Bars:
Non-binding release latches
Hassle-free disconnect, even on unlevel ground
Self-aligning arms
Telescope to make hookup a breeze
Automatically center and lock when pulling away
Aluminum construction instead of steel
Lightweight for an easy-to handle, simple-to-store tow bar
Pivot joints
Allows arms of tow bar to pivot and adjust for quick, simple hookup on unlevel ground
High/Low Adapters
When your dinghy is connected to your motorhome, the tow bar should be within 3" of level. If it is not within this acceptable range of level, you will
need to use a high/low adapter to
properly connect up. Click here to learn more about high/low adapters.
Base Plate Kits
Base plates are the only piece of the puzzle that is vehicle specific. A vehicle that is being towed requires custom-designed base plates that specifically fit its frame. Once installed on your car's frame, the base plates provide attachment points for your tow bar.
Base plates install on your dinghy's frame using as many existing attachment points as possible without sacrificing strength or safety. When multiple base plate kits are available for a specific vehicle, installation will be nearly the same for each kit. The differences lie in the draw bar type and the number of frame bracket pieces. Typically, base plates consist of two main parts:
Frame bracket(s)
Mount directly to the dinghy's frame
Draw bar arms provide attachment points for the tow bar.
Removable arms
Attach to the frame brackets using a pin and clip or twist-lock feature
Create cleaner look with no visible brackets
Fixed arms
Welded to the frame bracket
Visible at all times
Typically, more economical option
Roadmaster offers four different styles of base plates. To see a detailed overview of Roadmaster base plates, click here. Blue Ox only offers one type of base plate. To learn more about their lug-style attachment system, click here.
While most base plate manufacturers try to construct products to fit as many applications as possible, it is not uncommon to find that the company that made your tow bar does not have base plates for your vehicle. If you have a tow bar and base plates that are manufactured by different companies, you will need to purchase an adapter.
Why are adapters necessary?
Each tow bar manufacturer has a unique type of connection that is used to secure the tow bar to the base plate arms.
Roadmaster base plates
Most Roadmaster tow bars and base plates use quick disconnects to attach the base plates to the crossbar and tow bar.
One quick-disconnect bracket attaches to the tow bar arm or the crossbar
Other quick-disconnect bracket attaches to the base plate draw bar arm
Both brackets then interlock with one another and are secured together with a linch pin
Blue Ox base plates
The draw bar arms have two lugs that interlock with the lugs on the ends of the tow bar arms and then secure in place with a pin and clip.
Demco
The draw bar arms have two-prong ends that slide around the tow bar arm extensions and secure in place using a pin and clip.
So...
If you have a Blue Ox tow bar, but you only have Roadmaster base plates with quick disconnects, then the Blue Ox triple-lug ends on the tow bar arms will not work with your base plates. The adapter you need will have one side that connects with the lugs on the Blue Ox tow bar and one side that has quick disconnects for use with Roadmaster base plates.
If you need an adapter, but aren't sure which type, consult the
table here to help you choose.
Safety Cables
Safety cables are crucial for any tow bar setup and are required by law in most states. They ensure that your dinghy does not detach from your RV in the event that your tow bar somehow uncouples from it, or that your dinghy uncouples from your tow bar.
In most towing setups, safety cables link two or three components together:
The long cable connects the RV hitch to the base plate arms on the dinghy
The small cable connects the base plate arms to the frame-mounted brackets on the dinghy
Long, straight cables
Designed for tow bars that have integrated cable channels
Note: Cables should not be wrapped around Blue Ox tow bars with protective rubber boots.
Long, coiled cables
Won't drag during towing
Note: Do not use coiled cables with tow bars that have safety cable channels.
Short safety cables
Required when using the Roadmaster EZ or XL base plates
Connect removable draw bar arms to base plate brackets
Designed to hold your tow system in place if the draw bar arms become disconnected from the
dinghy's frame brackets
Tow Bar Wiring
You are required by law to have a lighting system on your dinghy that functions in sync with your tow vehicle's tail lights.
Removable exterior light kits
Magnetic towing lights
Hitch-mounted light bar
Separate tail light bulb kits
Mounts inside vehicle's tail light housing
Bypasses dinghy lighting system
Diode light systems
Wires in-line with dinghy's existing tail light bulbs
Requires little to no maintenance after initial installation
Wiring extensions
Connect towed vehicle wiring to motorhome wiring
Most installations require an extension
Charge line kits
Allows RV or motorhome to charge towed vehicle's battery while towing
Connects from 6-way or 7-way plug at front of towed vehicle to it's battery
Keeps towed vehicle's battery charged if that battery is used for powering a braking system
A power line must be present on the RV or motorhome
If power is not at the 6-way or 7-way plug on the RV or motorhome, then a charge line kit made for RVs and motorhomes must be installed
For detailed information on the types of dinghy lighting available,
click here.
Supplemental Braking Systems
Required in most states and Canadian provinces
Can decrease braking distance up to 30 percent on some towing setups
Minimizes wear on both vehicles and smoothes braking
Maintains RV warranty
Many RV manufacturers will only honor your warranty if a braking system is in place when towing
For more information on supplemental braking systems, click here.
General Setup Tips
Before deciding on a tow system:
Be sure that your dinghy can be towed before taking it on the road. Some vehicles must be equipped with a transmission lube pump, an axle disconnect, a drive-line disconnect or free-wheeling hubs before they can be towed with a tow bar. Failure to properly equip your vehicle could lead to severe damage to its transmission. Check your owner's manual or call your dealer for specific information on your vehicle.
If your vehicle cannot be towed for any of the above reasons, you may be able to use a tow dolly instead.
Initial setup
Never exceed the maximum weight capacity of your tow bar, or of any other component of your towing system
Always hook up on level ground - even non-binding tow bars may be difficult to maneuver if your system is not in line
Set your dinghy's steering and transmission to "tow"
Check to make sure tow bar arms are locked in place before heading out
Towing tips
Ensure that your tow bar setup is as level as possible, from the hitch of the tow vehicle to the base plates of the dinghy.
Improper leverage on the RV and dinghy can cause stress and wear on the tow bar as well as the base plates
When braking, stress is applied to your towing system and to the frames of both your RV and dinghy as a result of the downward braking force placed on the fronts of both vehicles. This can cause flexing at the base plate installation points and adversely affect both the frame and suspension of your towed vehicle.
The end of the tow bar that attaches to the base plates should not exceed a rise or drop of 3 inches from the center of the RV hitch receiver
A Measure the height from the center of your hitch pin hole on the RV to the ground
B Measure the distance from the center of your dinghy's draw bar arms (when installed in frame brackets) to the ground
Subtract the difference C = A - B
If there is more than a 3 inch difference,
higher or lower, a hitch adapter is needed.
Safety cable tips
Cross your safety cables under the coupler of your tow bar as an extra safety measure
Prevents the front of the tow bar from dragging in the event of a disconnect
If the tow bar were to hit the ground during a disconnect, it could cause the dinghy to jackknife into the tow vehicle.
Use quick links
Place quick links on the RV's
hitch and the dinghy's base plates to make clipping on safety cables quick and easy
No awkward hookups; just a clip that attaches to the cable hook
Updated by: Raymond P.
Last updated: 7/3/18
Harry W.
9/30/2024
I have a 2017 Coachman Pursuit 27KB Class A and pull a 2020 Jeep Cherokee Trail Hawk with a Roadmaster towbar setup. My problem is that when there is even a slight crosswind or we are passed by a semi, we are blown all over and the toad seems to exaggerate the movement. I call it the tail wagging the dog. We had a TT and it had a friction device that you could adjust to eliminate this. Is there such a device for flat towing our Jeep?
@HarryW To my knowledge there isn't an anti-sway device for towed vehicles, but this would be a good time to check your Jeep's alignment and get it weighed. If the alignment isn't right and you have play in the steering it can allow sway.
The towing capacity of your motorhome is 5,000lbs and the curb weight of your Jeep is 4,250lbs so you're pretty close to your capacity and could be potentially even closer if you're loading the car up.
If you don't have a rear anti-sway bar on your motorhome or if it's smaller than 1-1/2" in diameter then you can upgrade to the Roadmaster Rear Anti-Sway Bar # RM-1139-146.
Upgrading the stability of your motorhome and making sure your Jeeps alignment is right is likely going to make the biggest impact for you in this situation.
@MikeL you'll have to be ok with your tow vehicle becoming the ugly duckling, and the absence of differentials could be an issue... nah, hotwheels are drift kings :) good question.
We have a 2002 Jeep Liberty 4x4 for a toad behind our Toyota Tundra 4x4 with a Lance 825 truck camper. We have a blue ox flat towing system. Even before adding the ( supplemental) Brake buddy we didn’t feel it back there. The Liberty has a 5 position transfer case, 2 wheel,4 part time, 4 full time, neutral & 4low. It’s an excellent lighter weight toad.
Let me direct you to an expert answer page that talks about this. Basically some can and some can't and you will need to verify in the actual owners manual to be 100% sure/correct if it can be flat towed. When you go to the dealer to look at them just look up towing in the owners manual....Do it yourself don't let the salesman answer it lol.
@KerryS It is too difficult to estimate the cost of installing a complete flat tow package. The hourly labor rates vary from dealer to dealer, and from one region to another. Additionally, the time to install equipment on one vehicle may be longer or shorter than another. Your best bet is to call a couple of installers in your area that you would consider and ask them what the cost would be. When you are on the product page for the tow bars, there is a link there called, "Locate installers near me" This is an easy way to find someone who can offer a quote.
Do you ever wonder how we got things done without videos and well explained instructions? Thanks to eTrailer's well done videos and well written instructions things that used to be too hard for the average person is now easier than ever. I am towing a Colorado Bison ZR2 behind a Nexus Viper 27V Class C motorhome. All five components needed I was able to purchase from eTrailer. This gave me the confidence needed to install all 5 components myself.
Great the best clear conscious well written articlesI have ever read in 65 years. And the one video on base plate to Subaru installation was similar - the old KISS Principle keep it simple stupid. My thanks to Dani - and e trailer for doing it “right”. Thank you.
I am looking to purchase a 2017 Coach House Platinum 220TB RV. It is built on a Ford E450 chassis and has a 14,500 lb GVWR and a 22,000 lb GCWR. I would be towing a 2021 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited with 5800 lb GVWR. Will this work? What equipment do you recommend I purchase?
As long as your RV is rated high enough to tow your 2021 Wrangler Unlimited you should be good to go. Here is a link to our list of parts for a 2020 Wrangler Unlimited. These will be the same for your 2021.
Hi,
I want to tow my classic car (Old Mini Cooper) on an A frame tow bar, but my car does not have a steering lock. Must the wheels be locked obviously in the forward position or dose the car track its self in the free steering position?
Thanks for your help.
That is something that you'll need to look up in your owner's manual. If you let me know the year of your Mini Cooper then I can try to look it up as well but you should be able to find a section in your manual about recreational towing that specifies this.
We purchased a 2002 Jeep Liberty Sport to pull behind our 1997 Fleetwood Southwind Storm motorhome. With yout help we got a base plate and other accesories to go along with a Demco Excaliber tow bar. We set out on our maiden voyage and discovered we had horrible sway or fishtailing at even 45 mph. It was a constant battle to keep the moter home between the lines. After much research we added 10 extra pounds air pressure to the jeeps tires which seemed to help on our trip back home but we still couldnt go over 50 mph. We sent awaay for a 4" receiver drop to make the tow bar more level but have't got it yet to try out. My question to you is if you could possibly have any ideas on why we might be getting that much sway and what we can do to help it. We will never get anywhere at 45 mph plus it is potentially very dangerous.
Thank you for your time and any suggestions
You definitely want to make sure that your tow bar is within the 3" safety range (see attached) so if it isn't then the high/low adapter will definitely be a good place to start.
Another thing to possibly check is your anti-sway bars and steering stabilizer on the motorhome. If these are old or haven't been replaced then it would really help your driving experience overall - not just while you're flat towing. If you go through our fitguide and select the year/make/model of your motorhome chassis you can see if we have anything that fits.
Maybe you can help me in finding the right tow bar and base plate that I would need for our 2020 Nissan Rouge. We have a Thor Ace class a would appreciate your help thank Ken
As of today (1-20-2020) none of our manufacturers have determined a fit for your vehicle regarding base plates. As soon as they do, you will be able to see them on our website fit guide for your vehicle which I've linked. I recommend checking your owner's manual as the 2019 model year didn't allow for flat towing and instead required a tow dolly like the Demco Kar Kaddy X Tow Dolly with Disc Brakes - Tilt Bed Frame - 4,800 lbs # DM9713093.
The first thing you'll need to flat tow your 2015 Chevy Malibu LS is a base plate kit like the Roadmaster part #RM-523178-5 that is a confirmed fit. In addition to the base plates, you will also need a compatible tow bar, safety cables,…
You do have the option to utilize the air brakes on your 2023 Freightliner Cascadia to control electric trailer brakes using the Hayes Air Actuated Trailer Brake Controller, part #HA100400C. However, we mostly recommend just using an electric brake…
Hi Robert; hopefully your Roadmaster tow bar is one that attaches to direct-connect base plates as opposed to crossbar base plates; for example the 8,000 lb Roadmaster Sterling would be optimal. Assuming that, here is what you need to flat tow your…
Both the Roadmaster and Blue Ox tow bars are great options. But if it was my decision to make I would go with the Blue Ox Avail part #BX7420 as we have found that the Blue Ox tow bars are a little easier to connect and disconnect from. Also this…
The parts you're looking at getting for your 2022 Ford F-150 are definitely on point with what I would be recommending. I recommend picking up the Demco SBS Stay-IN-Play DUO #SM99251 and the Brake-Lite Relay Kit #RM-88400 (so your lights work…
In order to flat-tow a 2012 - 2014 Honda CR-V with all four wheels on the ground behind a motorhome you are going to need a tow bar, base plate kit, safety cables, tail light wiring harness, supplemental braking system, and possibly a high-low…
I will be happy to recommend the parts you will need to flat tow your 2016 Ford Fiesta behind your RV. The first item needed will be base plates. The base plates are what will mount to the Fiesta. They provide a safe attachment point for the tow bar.…
Basically you want the tow bar to set as level as possible when flat towing. You have 3 inches up and down that is considered safe. Check out the picture I attached that shows what I mean. I also attached a help article that covers how to pick out…
If your 2022 Chevy Colorado ZR2 is four-wheel-drive with a N (Neutral) and a Four-Wheel Drive Low setting then it can be flat towed. To flat tow your Colorado you'll need a tow bar, base plate, tow bar wiring kit, braking system, and safety…
To flat tow a vehicle, you'll need a hitch on the motor home, a towbar, a base plate kit installed on the tow vehicle, a tow bar wiring kit so that the taillights on the vehicle work along with those on the motor home, safety cables and a…
The Roadmaster Smart Diode Kits #RM47ZR and #RM63MR are quite similar in that they both contain the same smart diodes, and wiring components. The difference is that the #RM63MR also comes with a 6-pin round plug for the front of the vehicle, as well…
When it comes to choosing between the Blue Ox Patriot #BLU37TR and the Brake Buddy Select 3 #HM39524, these systems are extremely similar in their setup and functionality. Both of these systems provide proportional braking in a compact and easy to…
Harry W.
9/30/2024
I have a 2017 Coachman Pursuit 27KB Class A and pull a 2020 Jeep Cherokee Trail Hawk with a Roadmaster towbar setup. My problem is that when there is even a slight crosswind or we are passed by a semi, we are blown all over and the toad seems to exaggerate the movement. I call it the tail wagging the dog. We had a TT and it had a friction device that you could adjust to eliminate this. Is there such a device for flat towing our Jeep?