To see if this custom-fit item will work for you please tell us what vehicle you'll use it with.
Install a 4-way flat on your vehicle with this splice-in harness. Powered converter connects directly to battery to reduce strain on wiring. Potted, SMT construction boosts water and vibration resistance. Works with 2-wire, 3-wire, and PWM systems.
Features:
Specs:
Installation
To determine where to splice into your vehicle's tail light wiring, you will need to consult the included instructions. Use the quick-splice connectors to attach the input wires of the tail light converter to the corresponding wires from your vehicle. Once you've spliced in the converter, connect the included hot lead to the black wire and run it up to your car battery. Connect the lead to the included fuse holder, and then connect the fuse holder to the positive terminal on your battery.
Then locate a flat surface inside your vehicle near the tail lights and adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. Find a raw metal surface to use as a ground point and secure the white ground wire using the provided ring terminal and screw. Finally, secure the converter wires to your vehicle using the included cable ties.
It is recommended that you use a small amount of grease on the 4-pole connector to help prevent corrosion.
Because most trailers run on a 2-wire system - wherein the brake and turn signals are carried on 1 wire - the signals from your vehicle may have to be converted to be compatible with your trailer's wiring. If your vehicle operates on a 3-wire system, which means that it has separate brake and turn signals, then those signals will need to be combined so that they run on 1 wire to properly activate your trailer's tail lights. This converter will also ensure that your trailer's lights illuminate fully, even if your vehicle has pulse-width modulation (PWM) wiring. Note: This will not affect how the tail lights on your vehicle operate.
This converter is a circuit-protected, battery-powered unit that bypasses the electrical routes that are used by a basic wiring harness. As a result, there is virtually no draw on your tail light circuits.
Curt builds each tail light converter using surface-mount technology (SMT). This method of construction involves soldering electronic components directly to the surface of a printed circuit board. SMT eliminates the need for leads, which are used in older through-hole technology. The result is a circuit board that is smaller yet provides more routing area and that offers superior performance, reliability and durability.
Circuit boards constructed using SMT have been shown to perform better under rough conditions with excessive vibration than those made using the through-hole method. And where would vibration be more likely to occur than in towing applications? Curt converters also produce less heat, leading to increased durability and longer life. In addition, lower levels of resistance ensure better performance, especially for parts that operate at higher frequencies.
Each Curt circuit board is made using high-quality components that are pieced together in the most technologically savvy fashion, leading to greater predictability and reliability in functioning.
California residents: click here
Average Customer Rating: 4.7 out of 5 stars (552 Customer Reviews)
Install a 4-way flat on your vehicle with this splice-in harness. Powered converter connects directly to battery to reduce strain on wiring. Potted, SMT construction boosts water and vibration resistance. Works with 2-wire, 3-wire, and PWM systems.2017 Audi q7 is a "2 wire" setup. I finally figured that out, grounded the red wire and everything works beautifully. I also pulled my power from the fuse box in the left rear luggage area. The red bus has 25 amp fuses. I installed a buddy fuse adapter with the 15 amp fuse that came with this kit. That saved me a lot of time taking apart panels to get to the battery.
I tried to follow the directions and code the wires to the car's function. The brake/directional were on the same wire and easy. However, the taillight was testing on two of the remaining wires. I called for clarification and was given the incorrect wire by two different techs. I had to cut that wire and attach to the remaining wire and everything appears to be working properly now.
Installation stretched my limits, but we will blame that on the car and on my narrow limits. It is a tight and clean install. Has worked flawlessly this past year. I used it just yesterday to haul junk and brush about 100 miles for disposal. I would definitely buy this hitch again.
worked great.had it installed by professional and no problems. use it a lot. however, the wiring harness was the wrong one but the pro was able to fix the problem. need better info for wiring.
Wiring harness arrived on time and was installed by professionals. Very satisfied.
Thank you etrailer! After being told that it could not be done by local mechanics, I continued my research and found etrailer. I was advised by the wonderful etrailer customer service team that this Curt Powered Tail Light Converter with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector would work to connect my 2018 Ford EcoSport to my trailer and it did exactly that! Thank you All!
Excellent fit! This was a tough car to find the wiring harness with the hitch. Looks sharp!! Thanks :)
Great service from order placement to shipping. Installation without a hitch and any questions were quickly answered by instructions or you tube video. Make sure to habe the right tool for the plastic rivets.
I would not have been able to successfully install the hitch and harness without the tech video instructions. It was nearly identical to my 2007 BMW X5. I just had problems putting in the ground screw because the instruction video placed it under where there is a plastic pocket reservoir, and I had to improvise because I did not know how to remove it, so, I had to drill a small hole at an angle and try to screw the ground screw in level by the help of the angled starter hole, and it worked. The reflectors were a bit challenging because of having to contour my arm and hand around the mufflers to squeeze the clips. The harness green wire was barely long enough, but, all in all, everything worked out great, especially, for someone like myself who does not have a mechanical leaning in personality.
Pretty straight forward install on a 2013 Audi Q5 S-Line. There is an ground lug on the rear inside panel right next to a convenient spot to mount the unit. I removed the silver panel along the tailgate sill to route the power wire and the trailer plug tail before I started. It clips off easily, and you can reach between the side panel and the battery compartment with your fingers. There's a small electrical connector on the panel, so be careful to disconnect it before yanking on it. Make sure you replace this panel as soon as you have routed the wires, as that electrical connector is to two micro switches that detect if the door is closed... there is no power to the rear lights while the tailgate is up, so this panel needs to be in place before you start wiring. Correct wires were easy to locate. The 2013 Q5 is a little different to the wiring types listed in the instructions, as while the brake runs off the turn signals, there is a separate tail light wire. If you are probing for the wires, close the tailgate, and climb in through the rear passenger door. Here are the correct splices off the tan connector... Tail Light (Brown) - splice to Black with Green trace Left Signal (Yellow) - splice to Gray with Black Trace Right Signal (Green) - splice to Gray with Blue trace Red and White both Grounded together. The only issue I had was that the blue splice connectors supplied are too big for the fine wires on the Audi, so when I tested the install, I had nothing working. I replaced the blue connectors with the smaller red ones, and all worked perfectly then. Start to finish, about 90 minutes.
Second time using it the plug fell apart and I had to wire in a new end connector.
Hey George, I haven't had any issues with the tail light converter. It's working perfectly fine after a full year! Thanks for reaching out and following up with your product, that's excellent customer service! I will refer friends and family who are looking for similar products to you. Thanks!
I bought a 2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee L. Jeep said they would not have the hitch available until late May. The Draw-Tite hitch fit perfectly. Thanks
The installer screwed up but it was fixed by someone with brains.
Kit worked well on our 2010 Audi Q5. Don’t follow Tim S. Wiring suggestions. They didn’t work for my Q5. I had to rewire it with different connections as his were all wrong for my car. I included a picture of what worked for me.
Pretty easy to install with the instructions correct. Have not had the opportunity to try it out on a trailer yet (change of plans).
2009 bmw 528i. you almost can't see the trailer hitch below the bumper. I've NEVER seen a Beemer pulling a trailer............. Electrical hookup was just as the instructions said. BMW has the battery in the right side of the trunk so power hookup was easy. I put the pig-tail down in the spare tire well when not in use. Feel free to use whatever pics you see fit. Great product and install videos.
Wired this on a 2006 Mini Cooper Sport with a curt hitch to tow my small utility trailer. Works amazingly.
Product was exactly as described and easy to install. It works perfectly. Installation told 35 minutes. Suggestion for etrailer…The kit only includes one eye ring fastener pre-attached to the white module ground wire. Given that the red module wire will almost always be grounded too, they should include a second eye ring connector. Luckily I had one in my shop.
Easy to install even if you know nothing about wiring the YouTube video with step by step instructions makes this wiring harness easy to install
There needs to be a 2021 Toyota Highlander specific set of instructions, or even better a video. First off, the battery is located behind the right rear wheel well, key points being being the heavier guage battery wire supplied only needed to be about 18" long, as best space available for control module is right next to the battery. Because of that, the long signal wire should be the left side, not the right side, but as the only reasonable place to splice in brake, turn and running lights is at the rear lighting housings, a little primer on removing / replacing them without scratching your paint would help the newbies. Getting wiring from the battery area to the taillight housings could use some clearer instructions. Basically the included instructions, and to a good degree the kit, are a bit too generic for the newer Highlanders.
High quality wiring. Works perfect on my 2008 BMW X5. No worning lights
Received in record time and had my mechanic install it and he had to do just minor cutting on plastic bumper and good to go 2011 Mini cooper hardtop. Have the wires to hook up the rear camera to the back up lights
Great customer service and a great hitc h!
The wiring kit was complete, solid construction, clear directions, and worked very well. This was my first time wiring a car for a trailer. I was lucky that there was already a 12 volt power line running near my trunk auxiliary power/cigarette lighter plug), so it was easier than I was expecting. It’s been a year now, and it’s been no issues yet. I don’t remember how much I paid for the kit, but it must have been close in price to others - and it has been a super value for me
Do you have a question about this Trailer Wiring?
Info for this part was:
At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.
Thank you! Your comment has been submitted successfully. You should be able to view your question/comment here within a few days.
Error submitting comment. Please try again momentarily.