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  1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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2" Lubed Dust Cap & Rubber Plug - 1.99" x 1.40" x 1.18" - Qty 1

2" Lubed Dust Cap & Rubber Plug - 1.99" x 1.40" x 1.18" - Qty 1

Item # DC200L-DCRP
Our Price: $8.97
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Shipping Weight: 0.12 lbs
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DC200L-DCRP - E-Z Lube Grease Cap TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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2" Lubed Dust Cap and Rubber Plug Great Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from TruRyde. 2" Lubed Dust Cap & Rubber Plug - 1.99" x 1.40" x 1.18" - Qty 1 part number DC200L-DCRP can be ordered online at or call 1-800-940-8924 for expert service.
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TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - DC200L-DCRP

  • Caps
  • E-Z Lube Grease Cap
  • 1.98 Inch O.D.
  • TruRyde

2" Lubed Dust Cap and Rubber Plug


  • Fits EZ lube spindle
  • Construction: 22 gauge, zinc coated steel
  • Dimensions: 1.99" x 1.40" x 1.18"
  • Includes rubber plug

DC-200L + DC-RP 2" Lubed Dust Cap & Rubber Plug - 1.99" x 1.40" x 1.18" - Qty 1

Video of 2" Lubed Dust Cap & Rubber Plug - 1.99" x 1.40" x 1.18" - Qty 1

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.

Customer Satisfaction Score:

Customer Reviews

2" Lubed Dust Cap & Rubber Plug - 1.99" x 1.40" x 1.18" - Qty 1 - DC200L-DCRP

Average Customer Rating:  4.7 out of 5 stars   (401 Customer Reviews)

2" Lubed Dust Cap and Rubber Plug


Great price and fast delivery (using the cheapest delivery option). Comparable part was available locally at TSC for more than double your cost including shipping!!

eTrailer is always there with a huge selection, outstanding technical info to ensure I'm ordering what I need, a great price, quick shipment, quality parts and the best customer service - thank you!



Installed these on a boat trailer, immediately took the boat out of state and have used it many times sense with no issues. As always, eTrailer comes through with great options at the best prices. Thank you!


I received the parts in a very short while and they are installed, and the trailer hubs are like new! Will always shop etrailer when I need parts. I was even sent installation videos.Great company!

William N.


works perfect.


Maybe they're tight enough to be waterproof but I would have thought they would come with some type of seal around the flange since They do get used on boat trailers.

Etrailer Expert

Jenny N.


I wanted to reach out to you in regards to your review on the grease caps. I would not say that they are waterproof however they generally tight enough for a boat trailer. I did want to confirm that you do have the EZ lube spindles on your trailer.

Dennis B.


I havent had any bearing issues, but grease them the first of each month and do get water out of the bearings. I do have the EZ lube spindles.


Better than the OEM Dust Caps! And as always great customer service and support! Thanks and George J!


I hate to leave a poor review but I discovered this spring that all 4 of my dust caps are rusty on the inside after launching and hauling out my boat one time.
The rubber plugs don't fit tight enough.
I contacted customer service and was told those parts are only warranted for 90 days so I am out of luck.
Hope I don't have to replace all my wheel bearings now.


Not what I was expecting. Lubed dust cap leads one to believe it has a grease fitting to lube bearings!!

Etrailer Expert

Jenny N.


I wonder if you are thinking of Bearing Buddies? These caps are meant to be used with EZ lube spindles that have the grease zerk fittings built in. If you do not have an EZ lube spindle, then you can add a Bearing Buddie such as part # BB1980A. It would fit the 1.98 inch hub bore and provide the grease zerk to add grease to the bearings. Or if you are looking for a stainless-steel option part # BB1980A-SS is also available.


Exact replacement, trouble free.


fit my wheel hub


Order these before tearing into a 2006 travel trailer that had the original wheel bearing grease and was due for repacking. Received products quickly and worked great on our Dexter E-Z-lube axles.


Worked great! No issues


Recieved order fast perfect fit..I will recommend etrailer to all friends& family. Thanks


Great and very handy product, plus, the price was very good compared to local outlets!


The products were great, just as advertised, and fit perfectly. The only problem I had was paying with my card. It kept rejecting until I finally figured out that the billing address was different that the shipping address. I had not had this problem anywhere else, so it took a while to figure it out. Once I edited that, all went well.


Easy to figure out the right part on the website and fast shipping. This was my fourth or fifth time using and I will continue being a regular customer.


Despite etrailer insisting these would fit the hubs I bought, they did not so I reused my old ones.

Etrailer Expert

Mike L.


If your outer wheel bearing is an L44649 or an L44643, this is the correct grease cap. They do fit very tightly, so its frequent that folks think they dont fit.


It was perfect and quick


Axle grease caps; easy to install on my boat trailer. They have been on over a year, seal out the water and dust, no grease leaking out on the rims. Very happy with them.

Elaine K.


Its been over a year and seals still look like new. I live on a gravel road and travel 30 miles to my favorite lake at least 2 times a week. No leakage of grease, no water in bearings. Would order these again.


Best Price I could find for these, should of bought a few extra although I doubt they will ever fall out. The fitment was pretty extreme on my trailer, it took me a while to get one of them on but I dont think these caps have to do with that issue. It is good thought because they wont fall off. I did have one of the rubber ends rip after 500 miles of towing, not sure if too much grease caused it to rip or just got a fluke one. Would recommend order a few pairs of the just the rubber caps to keeps as spares in case this happens, you lose one, etc.

Etrailer Expert

Laura E.


Great idea, Brian! The replacement rubber cap Item DC-RP can be found on our site, as well.


Fit like a glove


Appreciate the prompt service but I guess I messed up on my order. I got two bearings that were the same size. My hub has a bigger inner bearing and seal.

Etrailer Expert

Sierra K.


You will need to know both the inner and outer bearing numbers. These numbers can be found stamped on the bearings themselves or you can use a digital caliper such as # PTW80157 to measure your spindle to the thousandths of an inch at the seal, inner bearing and outer bearing.


Interesting mix between a axle cover and buddy bearing . it really fills with a lot of grease jury’s out if I like them have done very little road work with the loaded trailer



As advertised


Purchased set of Dexter Nev-R-Adjust electric brake assemblies - completely assembled on a new backing plate - for 3500 lb Dexter axle on a Casita 17'. Since drums were off, included new bearings, races, seals, & caps along with partial drum grinding. As an old timer, I have rebuilt many brakes, bearings, etc. This job went as slick as any I have ever done. As soon as weather cooperated, done in 2 short sessions. etrailer was, as always, prompt on delivery with correct & complete parts. It doesn't hurt that they also provide extensive instructions for the first timer. Maybe not the cheapest but definitely the best parts & service.


Part looks to be well made


I would recommend etrailer for all my trailer parts, excellent quality and fast delivery.


WOW been a year now! There hasn't been any problems with the products for my Aluma ATV trailer. The 12 volt electric brake magnets to the dust cap covers you cannot beat the quality of these items and the excellent price paid for these. etrailer products and the great customer rep (George J) always following up.

Show More Reviews

See what our Experts say about this TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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  • Tips for Loosening Rusted on Trailer Hub Dust Cap
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  • Replacement EZ Lube Hub Dust Covers for 3700 lb UFP Axle on EZ Loader Boat Trailer
    I managed to track down your hub, thanks for providing the part number for the existing dust cover. Your hub uses a # L44610 race which has a 1.980 OD. Therefore, the # DC200L-DCRP dust cap you'd referenced will indeed work for you as the dust cap and outer race share the same outer diameter.
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  • Replacement Rubber Plugs for Grease Cap
    We do sell the rubber plugs for the 2" Lubed Dust Cap & Rubber Plug - 1.99" x 1.40" x 1.18" item # DC200L-DCRP you referenced. They are available in a two pack Grease Cap Plug for E-Z Lube Grease Caps item # RG04-010. Or as a single Rubber Lube Plug - Fits 1.18" Lubed Dust Cap item # DC-RP.
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  • Availability of Replacement Rubber Plugs for # DC200L-DCRP EZ Lube Grease Cap
    You sure can, they're sold in pairs as part # RG04-010 or individually as part # DC-RP.
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  • What Might Cause a Grease Cap to Keep Coming Off of the Hub Assembly On a Boat Trailer
    I would recommend to remove and reinstall the complete trailer hub assembly to make sure all of the parts are installed properly. I am including a link to a video of how to remove and reinstall a trailer hub on a boat trailer. This video will show you how to take off the hub assembly and how to properly put it back on and tighten the spindle nut. The spindle nut on the end of the spindle should be held on with a cotter pin or tang washer. If the cotter pin or tang washer is missing that...
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  • Trailer Hub Dust Cap with a 2.125" Outside Diameter
    I have a couple close but not perfect to your measurements. The 2" Lubed Dust Cap & Rubber Plug - 1.99" part # DC200L-DCRP is an extremely common cap size found on a lot of trailers. Sometimes the hub will have a small bevel on them that could easily be 1/16" on each side getting us to the 2 1/8" or I have the larger Zinc Plated Grease Cap - 2.333" Outer Diameter part # TRDC-233 but with this one we are looking at it being almost 1/4" too big. I think that will cause issues with installation....
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  • What do you Recommend for my New Boat Trailers Hubs Bearing Buddies or Dust Caps
    The bearing buddies are definitely the way to go to keep your bearings properly greased and protected during submersion. The Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors part # BB2441 are for hub bores that are 2.441". That is the bore found commonly of 5,200 lb. axles but always good to take a quick measure to ensure they will work. I have linked a video I did on them if you would like to check it out. You should also remember to remove the grease zerk to ensure the bearing buddy seats properly.
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  • How to Pick Out Replacement Grease Seal for Trailer Hub
    To pick out a replacement grease seal you will need to measure the diameter of the spindle where the grease seal rides with a digital or dial caliper like # PTW80157 and then need to measure the hub bore where the current seal rides. With those two dimensions we can pick out the correct seal that you would need. I attached a link to a page that has all of the grease seals we carry. You will need to select your inner and outer diameter from the filters on the page and the correct seals...
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  • Will Bearing Buddy Protectors # BB2047 Work with 25x52 mm Wheel Bearings on a Harbor Freight Trailer
    For your 25x52 mm wheel bearings, the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB2047 is a compatible fit. This product fits a 2.047 inch hub bore and will provide your trailer wheel bearings with premium protection by keeping water and dirt out even when completely submerged.
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  • How to Grease Boat Trailer Wheel Bearings on Trailer that Has Rubber Flange on Grease Cap
    It is a good idea to inspect and lubricate your trailer bearings at least once per year at the start of the season. If your trailer has a grease cap like # DC200L-DCRP but does not have EZ-Lube spindles with a zerk grease fitting to allow use of a grease gun it may be that these caps were added in place of standard grease caps. In this case you will need to remove and re-pack your bearings with fresh marine grease like # L54FR as outlined in the linked video and article. If you wish you...
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