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Bearing Kit with Grease Cap for 1" BT8 Spindle, L44643 Inner/Outer Bearings, 34823 Seal

Bearing Kit with Grease Cap for 1" BT8 Spindle, L44643 Inner/Outer Bearings, 34823 Seal

Item # DL21792
Our Price: $17.80
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Orders above $99 qualify for Free Shipping
Shipping Weight: 0.71 lbs
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - DL21792
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Great Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Bearing Kit with Grease Cap for 1" BT8 Spindle, L44643 Inner/Outer Bearings, 34823 Seal part number DL21792 can be ordered online at or call 1-800-940-8924 for expert service.
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - DL21792

  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • Bearing Kits
  • 2000 lbs Axle
  • 2500 lbs Axle
  • Bearing L44643
  • etrailer
  • Race L44610

Kit Includes:
  • One Inner Bearing and Race
  • One Outer Bearing and Race
  • Grease Seal
  • Cotter Pin
  • Grease Cap
Outer Bearing
Inner Bearing
Seal I.D.
Outer Hub I.D.
34823 (12192VB)

21792 Bearing Kit with Grease Cap for 1" BT8 Spindle, L44643 Inner/Outer Bearings, 34823 Seal

Video of Bearing Kit with Grease Cap for 1" BT8 Spindle, L44643 Inner/Outer Bearings, 34823 Seal

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.

Customer Satisfaction Score:

Customer Reviews

Bearing Kit with Grease Cap for 1" BT8 Spindle, L44643 Inner/Outer Bearings, 34823 Seal - DL21792

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (158 Customer Reviews)


Ordered DL21792 bearing and seal kit for BT8 spindles on my ecolight kayak trailer. Very fast delivery,2 days from ordering to delivery and price was better than at our local parts house. In past I have ordered similar kits for my bass boat trailer and have never had a issue with order delivery or product. I did order the installation tool for the bearings, races and seals just to save some grief using punches and wooden blocks for removal and installation of these items. I will order from etrailer again should I need any other trailer parts for my bass boat trailer, ecolight or other farm trailers I own.


The service was great and shipped to me right away. The bearings I feel made in China are just average and will have to see how well they work after running a few hundred miles. Thier wheels and tires are very good and reasonably priced and information was very helpful.
Overall etrailer is a good place to do business and would use them again.


fantastic. a repeat customer. great prices and excellent delivery


etrailer is by far one of the best websites to find what you want and get answers to your questions in a timely matter. Description is right on and you can tell that trailer parts is their business.


I have had these on my trailer for a year now and love them. No issues, glad I purchased from etrailer, not the first time and wont be my last, highly recommend buying from etrailer.


These bearings worked great on my MC-10 Aluma brand trailer. Easy install and working great for the last year. Thanks again!

Still working great on my motorcycle trailer.
Sterling R - 03/04/2018


Upon unpacking and installation this seems to be a low quality product


the complete kit was a good price and fit well. i used these to rebuild the bearings on my log splitter.


Fast delivery. Has a great choice of items, will def refer my friends to their website.


I’ve put on less than a hundred miles on these in a year but so far so good.


Very satisfied . A lot quicker delivery than I expected, will order again.


Good quality parts for a very reasonable price, and the parts were shipped quickly. My wood splitter can now be towed over the road again!


Great deal, the kit came with everything needed to keep my camper running down the road.


Very well crafted, and quality product. I had the raceways pressed into the hub, but the rest of the install went quickly. They trailer runs smooth, and I couldn't be happier.


Kit had everything needed and was a easy install.


Got this bearing set for a BBQ trailer I'm building. Bearings were "shot" on the trailer I bought so am replacing them. Surfed the web and looked locally. This was the best price including the shipping cost! Got shipping tracking as soon as the order was shipped. Easy tracking system. The product arrived in 6 days! It was perfect for my job. 100% satisfied with the service from Etrailer.

The bearing set is doing just fine. Pics of what they are in. My BBQ trailer with a “thin blue line” honoring Police everywhere.
John B - 09/12/2016


Bearing kit came quick, well packaged, and seems to be of good quality. I can't speak on longevity because I just installed them, but the races seem solid and bearings seem to be made well.

Ive put about 3000 miles on this kit and its held up without worries.
Andrew K - 09/04/2021


Everything seemed right on the web. But I had an older trailer so the size didn't work. The quality was okay.

Sorry this kit did not work out for you. Measuring your bearings and seals will help you find the correct sizes needed. Towards the middle of this help article, there is a chart that tells you the correct item to purchase based on size.
-- Etrailer Expert Sierra K - 11/18/2021


This kit contained everything I needed to replaced the parts that wore out in my boat trailer hub. Reasonable price and shipping was great.


They fit like new and are holding up very well!
Thank You


The bearing kit was exactly what I wanted. I replaced both bearings and races on both wheels and they have worked great. The reason this wasn't a 5 is that the caps were very hard to seat correctly. Could be my hubs though.


This is a great kit and excellent value. Everything fit my trailer axle perfectly. Even the grease seal that substitutes for my original fit well.

The trailer bearing kit is working great! Thanks for the great products and service.
J.W.S. - 08/23/2018


Product ordered was exactly that in which I wanted and same as what was delivered. Since I ordered over holiday period shipping was not as fast as it would have been otherwise so eTrailer refunded the difference in the shipping with just a 2 minute phone call! I have not installed the bearings as of yet (no time) but they look to match the ones I took out.
Trailer light only has mount on the rear, I would have liked a mount on the inside wall but a bracket will be easy to make and give a more stable / strong mount point.


Had to give it average because the bearing kit had the wrong seal in it. The rep was very nice about it and sent me the correct seal, which of course delayed my time line. I understand these things happen, so I'm not upset. Just want you to know. The other parts are OK.


Thank you for all your help with the bearings. Now i need a 5 lug wheel and tire.

Show More Reviews

See what our Experts say about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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    In order to recommend replacement bearings, I will need either the reference numbers from your existing bearings or an accurate measurement of the spindle surfaces where the inner and outer bearings ride and the surface where the grease seal rides (see diagram). The measurements need to be as accurate as possible using a digital caliper. Using a tape measure or ruler will not be precise enough. If you can provide this information, I would be happy to look for replacement bearings.
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  • Replacement Seal Needed for a Harbor Freight Haul-Master With Bearing 30205
    The bearing number alone is not the best indicator for a specific grease or oil seal. Trailers with the same bearing number could have different seals based on the spindle or hub that is being used. Bearing number 30205 is not a bearing that we offer and after doing some research that does not appear to coincide with any bearings that we currently carry. The best way to determine which seal you need is by taking some measurements on your hub and spindle. We want the inner diameter of...
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit With Bearings, Races, And Seals For 4 Lug Trailer Axle Hubs
    For your wheel bearing, races, and seals, I don't have the dimensions available. For a precise fit, I'll need you to give me the inner diameter and the outer diameter measurements of your bearing. Most 4 lug hubs use the same bearings so it is a good possibility that the TruRyde Bearing Kit with Grease Cap for 1" BT8 Spindle, L44643 Inner/Outer Bearings, 34823 Seal # DL21792 may fit. I've attached a video of this kit for you.
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  • How to Select Replacement Grease Seals for Long Chih Trailer
    I checked the Long Chih trailer website for details about the seals and bearings used on your model 202 trailer but I could not find that item on their site among their utility and boat trailers. You can select the correct replacement grease seals in one of two ways. First, you can pull the old seal and check it for a part number. Please refer to the linked diagram for the usual appearance and location of a seal part number. You can search our site using the part number. Or you can measure...
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  • Availability of Grease Caps for Long Chih Trailer
    In order to find a replacement grease cap, I'll need the the outer bearing reference number or the diameter of the hub bore. The measurement of the hub bore needs to be a very precise, so an accurate measuring tool like a digital caliper should be used. A ruler or tape measure wouldn't provide enough accuracy. With this information, I should be able to find a replacement grease cap for you.
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  • Grease Seals for Hub on Antique 1950's Trailer Using Military Surplus Axle
    The best way to match up a seal is to determine the necessary inside and outside diameter of the grease seal. I'd need to know the diameter of the hub bore where the seal sits. Use a digital caliper, because a ruler or tape measure won't be accurate enough. If this isn't feasible, the inner bearing or race number might be enough. I'll also need the diameter of the grease seal journal surface of the spindle (the surface of the spindle where the inner diameter of the grease seal rides),...
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  • How to Pick out a Replacement Seal for a Trailer Hub
    You will need to get the inner and outer dimensions of your seal or the number off of it to pick out the correct seal. If the seal of the Bearing Kit part # DL21792 does not match what you have then I would not recommend it for you. You may find that your bearings and seals do not match one of the bearing kits we offer. In that situation you will just need to piece together what you need. I attached a link to a page that has all of the seals we offer. Select your inner and outer diameter...
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  • Measuring a Spindle on a 1988 Long Chih Trailer LCI-851T to Determine the Correct Bearings
    The part numbers you have provided do not cross reference to anything we have, which does happen. It doesn't mean that we don't have anything that will fit. It just means that we have to determine all the parts you will need, if available, a different way. You will need to take very accurate measurements of the spindle to determine the correct replacement parts. The measurements have to be taken using a set of dial or digital calipers. I have included a picture that shows where to take...
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  • Wheel Bearings Needed for 1990 Coleman Newport Popup Camper
    To determine which bearings you need, you will need to pull one of the hubs off your pop-up and get the reference numbers off of your existing bearings (see photo), as we do not possess a list of bearings used on different trailers. If your existing bearings have no numbers, or they are not readable, you will need to use a dial or digital caliper to obtain some measurements off of your spindles to determine which bearings and grease seals are needed. I have edited a diagram that shows...
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  • Dimensions Needed To Replace Bearings And Seals On Trailer
    I was unable to find a cross-reference to the bearing number 30205 you referenced. I will need some more information from you to be able to determine what seals and bearings will work for your trailer. I have included a drawing that shows where the measurements need to be taken using a precision instrument like a dial caliper. The spindle dimensions are as follows: A is the mounting dimension, B is the seal dimension, C is the inner bearing surface, D is the outer bearing surface and...
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  • How to Determine the Correct Replacement Wheel Bearings for a 1990 Coleman Pop Up Camper
    Trailer wheel bearings are specific to the spindle that is installed on the axle that is on your 1990 Coleman Pop Up. The easiest way to determine the correct replacement bearings for your trailer is to remove the hub and find the part numbers that will be stamped on the inner and outer bearings. To remove the hub you will need to safely support the trailer, remove the wheel and tire, remove the grease cap, remove the cotter pin and washer that secures the spindle nut, remove the spindle...
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  • How to Determine Replacement Bearings for a 2005 Fleetwood Yuma Pop Up Camper
    You will need to remove the hubs of your 2005 Fleetwood Yuma Pop Up camper and remove the bearings in that hub in order to find out what would work as a replacement. There will be numbers stamped on the bearings. With those numbers we can determine what would work as a replacement. I attached a picture that shows what the numbers will look like.
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  • Axle Capacity Rating For The L44643 Bearing
    I can tell you what axle rating the Bearing Kit with Grease Cap part # DL21792 is compatible with however, I cannot be sure as to what axle you currently have. The L44643 is designed to work with a BT8 spindle that is commonly found on axles rated at 2,000 lb. and below. Both the inner and outer bearing will use the L44643 bearing on this axle. The best way to determine your exact axle capacity would be to contact the axle manufacturer if possible. Usually there is a tag on the center...
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  • Should There be a Space Between the Bearing and Seal on a Hub
    Although there is no specific measurement for that space between the bearing and grease seal, when installing the seal you will only insert it enough so that it is flush with the hub. This is the same case if you are installing the Bearing Kit # DL21792 that you referenced. I have attached a video of a seal being replaced that you can use as a reference. Also, you will want to be sure that the bearings and seals that you use for replacements are the exact same as what you have now.
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  • Does Grease Seal in Trailer Hub Need to Press Against Bearings in Hub
    Grease seal width is not nearly as important as inner and out diameter. If the seal you have matches the diameters correctly and the bearings are also correct for the hub and spindle you are totally fine. You do not need to seat the seal beyond flush either. Flush is perfect. I attached a link to a video that shows rebuilding a hub for you to check out as well.
    view full answer...
  • Where to Find Bearing Part Numbers for EZ Loader Trailer
    The best way to choose a replacement bearing kit is simply to pull one of the hubs off the axle and remove its bearings to obtain their part numbers. Usually bearing part numbers will be found on their outer ring, as shown in the linked photo. Trailer makers typically do not maintain this info. If you cannot find the part numbers on the inner and outer bearings you can still measure to determine the correct bearings by dimensions. The photo shows you where to measure the spindles for the...
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  • Availability of USA Made Bearings for 2,000 lb Trailer
    All of the bearings that we carry, like the Bearing Kit # DL21792, are made overseas and they all have pretty good quality which is reflected by the numerous customer reviews on this product page. While there are USA made bearings out there but they are much more expensive an, in all reality, bearings experience the most wear when it comes to trailers and are often the first thing that needs to be replaced regardless of where they are made. This is especially true if they aren't cared...
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  • Does Trailer Hub Seal Prevent Outer Bearing from Moving
    The grease seal is not designed to hold the bearing in. If there was pressure on the seal from a bearing somehow the seal wouldn't hold it in. The grease seal is designed to hold the grease in and prevent contaminants from getting in.
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit for Trailer Hub with L44643 Bearing
    The L44643 bearings are almost always used in pairs so it's safe to say that you'll need the Bearing Kit with Grease Cap for 1" BT8 Spindle part # DL21792.
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  • Needs Grease Seals of Approximately 1.22-Inch Inner Diameter for Home-Made Motorcycle Trailer
    Thank you for providing precise measurements for the required grease seals for your home-made single rail motorcycle trailer. Based on your measurements you can use part # 34823 from Tru-Ryde. This grease seal has dimensions quite close to those you provided. The dimensions of this double-lip seal are as follows: the inner diameter is 1.249 inches and the outer diameter is 1.983 inches. It is sold as a single unit (so please order two per axle). For reference I have included a link...
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  • Grease Seal Compatibility in TruRyde Bearing Kit with Grease Cap # DL21792
    If the TruRyde Bearing Kit with Grease Cap # DL21792 that you referenced uses the correct matching bearing set for your trailer (two of # L44643) then the included matching seal may fit. All components are matched for the BT8 spindle. This seal, # 34823, is a compatible cross-reference for the Transcom 12192. Its inner diameter is 1.249 inches and is outer diameter is 1.983 inches. You can measure your hub's inner bore to determine if this seal's outer diameter matches.
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  • Does the # 34823 Seal in Bearing Kit # DL21792 Match a # 7781 S
    The information that I was able to find on the oil seal # 7781S shows that it has an outer diameter of 1.989 inches and works with oil bath or grease-able hubs. The Bearing Kit with Grease Cap, # DL21792, includes Grease Seal, # 34823, which only works with grease-able hubs. I pulled the seal from our warehouse and it's outer diameter measures 1.983 inches. The # 34823 and the # 7781 S aren't an exact match, but the outer diameter measurements are very close. If you have grease-able...
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  • Correct Bearing/Race and Castle Nut Kit for 1 Trailer Spindle
    It sounds like you're looking for the Bearing Kit with Grease Cap for 1" BT8 Spindles part # DL21792 which comes with two bearings, two races, a grease seal, cotter pin, and grease cap. It has everything you need for one side of an axle. It doesn't however come with a castle nut so for that you'd need the Trailer Spindle Nut 1" part # 165686.
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  • Replacement Bearings for 2009 Rockwood Premier 2302 Trailer
    The TruRyde Bearing Kit # DL21792 that you referenced includes two each of bearing # L44643 as well as races, seal and grease cap. The Forest River RV website does not provide specs for the bearings used in the various models of their Rockwood Premier series, so for replacements you'll need to obtain the bearing numbers from those on the trailer. The linked photo shows the typical placement and appearance of trailer bearing numbers; it also shows the points on the spindles that will need...
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