bing tracking image
  1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
  2. etrailer
  3. Bearings
  4. Standard Bearings
  5. 2000 lbs Axle
  6. 1.000 Inch I.D.
Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44643

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44643

Item # L44643
Our Price: $6.62
You Save: 10%
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Shipping Weight: 0.19 lbs
Add to cart
In Stock
Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44643 1.000 Inch I.D. L44643
zoom in icon
slider vertical icon
zoom out icon
Comment field cannot be left empty.
Name field cannot be left empty.

Thank you! Your comment has been submitted successfully. You should be able to view your question/comment here within a few days.

Error submitting comment. Please try again momentarily.

Product Images

Customer Photos

Need help with installation?
Locate installers near me
High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Great Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44643 part number L44643 can be ordered online at or call 1-800-940-8924 for expert service.
  • All Info
  • Reviews (134)
  • Q & A (0)
  • Videos (2)
  • Photos

etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - L44643

  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • 2000 lbs Axle
  • 1.000 Inch I.D.
  • Bearing L44643
  • etrailer
  • Race L44610

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


  • Inner diameter: 1.000"
  • Matching race (sold separately): L44610
  • Application: inner/outer bearing for BT8 spindle

L44643 Replacement Bearing

Video of Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44643

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.

Customer Satisfaction Score:

Customer Reviews

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44643 - L44643

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (134 Customer Reviews)

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


As always great products with great ser vice.


We run a large facility with tons of machines. We use lots of bearings and races. The quality of the items from etrailer has reduced our replacement labor and time saving. The price of parts and the quality of the parts at etrailer is the best.

Thank you, guys, for all you do.


It's important to us that we don't have repeat breakdowns. Our plant issues about 363 PM's a week not including WO's or repetitive maintenance tasks. These bearings were not only cheaper but have held up to the brutal wear and tear of our industry.

George G.


To my surprise we are still running on these same bearings. I always thought bearings are bearings but these have held up better than the ones we were getting from the manufacturer of our machines. Our machines are large industrial machines not normally seen in the average workplace.


Put new bearings in some old tow dolly wheels I cut apart to make a fuel dolly cart for our loader . Rolls nicely even full of fuel!

Thanks guys!

Dan L.


Still rolls like the day I built my fuel dolly. 400 plus pounds and pushes around the shop easily


Not quite the size I was looking for. It looks like the Harbor Freight 1" axle trailers have approx. a 3/32" larger diameter for the OD of the outer ring/race. I was able to geary rig the cone bearing to fit and replace the one that was degraded from water infiltration. It fit and seated in an extra 1/16" deeper that the cone bearing I took out.
If anyone knows that specs for the Harbor Freight bearing and will allow me to return/exchange what I have not used.....great. Brad

Etrailer Expert

Patrick B.


Harbor Freight trailers do not typically use any of the commercial standard trailer bearings. When measuring bearings of any type, its necessary to use a precise measure with a set of calipers. Measurements are usually to the thousandth. Fractional ruler measurements simply are not accurate for precision, round object applications like this.


Excellent bearings, races, buddies, and mounted tires on rims. Makes my rebuild of a 1974 trailer new again. Easy website, fast delivery, better price than anywhere including wallyworld. Great.

Tom G.


Everything is great.


etrailer is awesome. Good pricing and excellent customer service. I received the wrong bearings, called customer service and the correct bearing were expedited that day. Can't ask for more than that.


Bearings and seals in stock, delivered fast and exactly what I needed. Thank You for your great customer service..... ready to transport my boat 1000 miles to Florida....Jim



everything is fine and working the way it should, Happy New Year


I had ordered a pair of new hubs for a trailer that I owned last Fall. My plans changed over the spring and the new hubs would not fir the trailer that I now wanted to update. One call to customer service solved my problem with a different set of bearings. This was a McPhee less costly fix over sending the hubs back for exchange. Katie M went the extra mile to help me with this problem of my own making. Etrailer will continue to be my go to place for trailer parts and accessories. Well done


Good quality for utility trailer. I replaced both inner and outer bea rings and inner races. I used the bearing buddy seal kit. Everything fit well. The bearing buddy seal kit did move the hub outboard slightly which required modification to cotter pin install.


Thanks Greg for the follow up on my purchaese. Service was great, very friendly folks. More than willing to help me get exactly what I wanted and needed. Went out of his way to make sure my measurements matched his and explained what and why he was doing.only problem I have is my own fault. The bearings that came out of my wood splitter were without races. The bearings I ordered needed races and I didn' order them. Have to get the races for my new bearings. New seal was great. When I get races and install. I will send pictures.


Purchased to repair/replace Bolens HT-20 tractor front wheel bearings.
Easily packed with grease and installed.
Affordable, relatively quick repair completed in between snow storms.
Only drawback was it was sourced from communist China.
Thank you again eTrailer!


Ordered several bearings and seals for a motorcycle tag along trailer. Thanks to etrailer's quick shipping I can get them installed in plenty of time before summer trips!


Excellent bearings at a great price. etrailer always gives great service and has what you need. Thanks.



Bearing-races-and seals are all great quality. No problems.



Bearing-races-and seals are all great quality. No problems.


I bought bearings, seals, and races for a rescue kit. Parts appear to be high quality and the price is amazing! The same bearings at the local parts store are eleven dollars apiece. Once again the shipping was fast and very reasonable. Thank you George J. and etrailer.


Bearings are not sold with matching races. On the other hand, I couldn’t have found the right bearings for a 1984 trailer without etrailer’s great webpage.


The package arrived with sticker saying it was unsealed from post office. They stapled it shut. Poor packing. Great quality bearings.


Received bearings and grease seals quickly, excellent pricing, will never look any place but for such parts. Keep up the good work.


great price and fit my gravely mowing deck spindles perfectly

Benjamin S.


still working great, thanks again


I am very satisfied with my products. I have only ordered a few times from e-trailer in the past year, but each time has been an excellent experience.


The bearings were as at a great price and were shipped very fast but I cant say enough about the service I got from etrailer. I will save this number and call them first for all my needs and will tell every one That I know about this Co. Great Service


I gave your company an excellent review due to the good price on each of the bearings I purchased as well as information you provided in describing each item.

The bearings are actually to be used on the spindles of a Zero turn mower where I was able to cross reference the bearing numbers. Your price was a fraction of the price on these bearings from the local dealer.


Bearing cone was as described, and arrived quickly. I am satisfied with the service I received from etrailer.




Product is what I ordered and good quality.. fast shipping...Cheaper that my local store(with shipping) and as always I had rather shop online than bother going in to town.. I have had to call etrailer before because of my mistake...they changed my order without any cost to me...

Show More Reviews

See what our Experts say about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • How to Install Grease into a Sure Lube Trailer Hub
    The Sure Lube system should be lubed by applying enough grease to push out all of the old dirty grease through the front of the dust cover until all of the grease coming out is clean. You will want to rotate the wheel a few times while doing so. Once all of the grease coming out is clean then you know it is lubed and ready.
    view full answer...
  • Tapered Roller Bearing Replacement for KOYO L44643R
    The R at the end of the L44643 is a manufacturer's identifier that has no bearing (pun not intended) on the important dimensions of the bearing. The # L44643 one inch inside diameter bearing we offer would indeed be the correct replacement for the wheel bearings on your log splitter.
    view full answer...
  • How to Determine Correct Wheel Bearing for 2005 Starcraft Pop Up Camper
    The best way to find out if the L44643 bearing you have is the correct one is to measure the diameter of the spindle where the bearings would ride using a digital caliper. The bearing inside diameter is 1 inch, the spindle should have an outside diameter slightly under an inch. Unfortunately, I don't have an easily available reference that would tell me what bearings were original equipment on your Starcraft Pop Up.
    view full answer...
  • Picking Out Replacement Grease Seal for Trailer Hub
    Having springs in the seals means you have a double lip seal which we do carry. I'll need more info from you though to pick out the correct seal. I need to know the outer diameter of your spindle where the seal rides and the diameter of your hub where the seal slips into. With that info I can pick you out the correct seal or you can follow the link I attached that has all of the seals we carry.
    view full answer...
    Image 1 for
  • When to Replace Bearings and Correct Replacements for 2018 Aliner Ranger Camper
    We recommend that the bearings, races, and seals on a trailer be inspected and repacked every 12 months or 12,000 miles (whichever comes first). The bearings and seals only need to be replaced if you notice any damage such as nicks, dents, metal discoloration, etc. Otherwise they can simply be repacked and installed back onto the hub and spindle. I have attached a great article that details this process that you might find helpful. I spoke with my contact at Dexter and she was unable...
    view full answer...
  • Possible Solution for Replacing Trailer Bearing L44543
    That's not a number we are familiar with. What's the inner diameter of the bearing? If it's 1 inch most likely you have a L44643 and the 6 just happens to look like a 5.
    view full answer...
  • Replacing Bearings and Seals on EZ Loader Boat Trailer for Grease Versus Oil Bath
    I can help you get the bearings and seal you need, but I need some information from you on your bearings. You will need to pull one of your hubs and look at the bearing number on the face of the inner and the outer bearing of your hub as well as the number on your seal. If you cannot find these numbers on the face of each bearing and the seal, then you will need to measure the axle spindle with a digital caliper in a couple locations to assist. I've attached an article and a photo to...
    view full answer...
    Image 1 for
  • Replacement Bearing Option for Trailer Hub with 30205 Bearing
    The bearing that you have on the trailer hub measures just under 1 inch (0.985) and we are not going to have a hub that accepts a bearing with an inner diameter of that size. This is common for the trailer kits like the Haul Master branded trailers. You have 2 options though. First, to obtain the right size replacement parts you would have to go to through the manufacturer since the hubs are not a common size. Second, and the best option, replace the axle so that you will not run into...
    view full answer...
  • Bearing Replacement Recommendation for Timken 07100
    The 07100 bearing number you referenced is an Timken bearing that has the same dimensions as # L44643.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement L44643 Bearings and 203025 Seal
    Hello Jack! We do have the L44643 bearing with part # L44643 but unfortunately the 203025 seal you mentioned is a bit of an odd size that we don't currently have available. It is a correct part number though and you should be able to find one locally at an auto parts store but we do not have them. Based on my research it features an inner diameter of 1.218 inches and an outer diameter of 1.983 inches.
    view full answer...
  • Does Axle Need To Be Replaced If Inner Race From A Blown Bearing Is Attached To Welded On Spindle
    Many times a new axle is the way to go if you have reason to replace one of the spindles. You may find that since you have the axle out of the trailer, or have to have someone remove it and repair it, that the cost will be about the same or just slightly more to replace the axle with a new one. When replacing the axle you will want to make sure and get the axle with the correct weight capacity for the trailer it is going on. Replacing the spindle on your axle will require cutting the...
    view full answer...
  • How to Pick Out Axle for Trailer with Axles that Use Bearings 30205A
    The bearing that you have on the trailer hub measures just under 1 inch (0.985) and we are not going to have a hub that accepts a bearing with an inner diameter of that size. This is common for the trailer kits like the Haul Master branded trailers. You have 2 options though. First, to obtain the right size replacement parts you would have to go to through the manufacturer since the spindles are not a common size. Second, and the best option, replace the axle like you mentioned since...
    view full answer...
  • Outer Diameter of L44643 and How to Find Correct Hub Bearings
    Bearing # L44643 has a 1.980" outer diameter so it is close to what you are saying, but the way to find the correct hub bearings is actually the inner diameters of the bearings (and the grease seal if you need to replace that). The easiest way to find the correct bearings is by taking apart your current hub assembly and look at the bearings themselves; wipe away the grease and you should be able to see the part number stamped directly on them. If you are unable to find them, you need to...
    view full answer...
  • BT8 Bearing Cross Reference For Tyson 07100
    The Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing # L44643 is compatible with a BT8 spindle and will cross reference with your Tyson 07100 bearing.
    view full answer...
    Image 1 for
  • Difference Between 30205 and L44643 Bearings
    The 30205 bearing that you referenced has an inner diameter of just under 1 inch (0.985 to be exact). We do not have this particular bearing or a hub that uses this size bearing available. The # L44643 bearing that you also mentioned has an inner diameter of exactly 1 inch and is typically the inner and outer bearing for the BT8 spindle. Even though the inner diameter between the two bearings are very similar, the difference would still cause problems in terms of fitting the spindle correctly...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings for 2,000 Pound Dilly Boat Trailer
    The only ways to be sure that you're putting the correct bearings on your trailer are to either find part numbers on the original bearings, or to use a digital caliper and measure the spindle. I have attached a diagram showing the places on the spindle you will want to measure: the grease seal diameter, inner bearing diameter, and outer bearing diameter. These measurements are very precise, which is why we recommend the digital caliper. There are some instances where bearing and hubs...
    view full answer...
    Image 1 for
  • Availability of Trailer Bearing L44643 and Race L44610
    The numbers you listed are standard bearing numbers. Typically Timken does not use them, but if that is what you have then most likely the bearing part # L44643 and the seal # L44610 would work well for you. You can measure to verify though. If the inner diameter of the bearing you have is exactly 1.00 inch then it is the same bearing.
    view full answer...
  • Which Bearings are Needed for a 2000 Jayco Qwest?
    Based on the outer bearing numbers you gave, there are a couple of possibilities as far as replacements, so you did narrow it down quite a bit, but not enough to be able to tell you exactly what you need. There is a way to find out, and it requires only the use of a caliper to measure the diameter of the spindle which the bearings ride. If it measures to be 0.99 inches, then you will need # L44643, and if it measures 1.06 inches, you will need # L44649. It is likely the latter because...
    view full answer...
  • How to Find Correct Replacement Trailer Bearings by Measuring
    While I wouldn't know off-hand what bearings your trailer needs, I can point you in the right direction. Since you can't see the bearing number stamped directly on them, you'll need to use a digital caliper and measure your spindle where the bearings ride, like in the photo I added. For example, if you measured and found the spindle measured 1.063" you would need Bearing # L44649. I have added a link below to our entire selection of bearings for you once you find this info, and you can...
    view full answer...
    Image 1 for
  • What is Difference Between Trailer Bearings L44649 vs L44643
    The bearing part # L44649 has an inner diameter of 1.063 and is typically used in 3,500 lb axle hubs and the # L44643 has an inner diameter of 1 inch and is typically used on 2,000 lb axle hubs. If you can get me more info on your trailer like axle capacity and wheel bolt pattern I can help you pick out the components you are looking for.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearing and Race for Timken 07100 Bearing and 07205 Race
    We do! Your Timken bearing 07100-SA is the same as the Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing # L44643. For a matching race you'll need the part # L44610 as well. Attached are some review videos for you to check out.
    view full answer...
  • What are the Correct Hubs for a 2,000 lb Axle?
    In order to choose the correct hub assembly, you are going to need to know a few things. The 2,000 lb axle and five lugs are a great place to start and considerably narrows down what else you need to know. One of those things is the wheel size, which is going to range from 8 to 15 inches. The bearing numbers are the final thing you will need to find out, and to do so, just remove one of the old hubs and find the number stamped into the bearings, which will be either L44643 or L44649....
    view full answer...
  • Availability of Castle Nut for Utility Trailer Hubs
    I believe you are referring to a castle nut like the TruRyde 1" # 165686, which is what secures the hub to a trailer spindle. As long as the spindles on your trailer use a 1" diameter castle nut, this will work perfectly as a replacement.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Grease Seal for an Old 6906 S National Oil Seal
    From what I could find, the 6906 S was made by National Oil Seals, but is no longer produced. However, it is almost identical to the TruRyde Double Lip Grease Seal # 34823 and is just off by the very slightest measurements. The 6906 S measures 1.25" inner diameter and 1.972" outer diameter. The # 34823 will measure 1.249" inner diameter and 1.983" outer diameter. It will be a tight fit, but it will work
    view full answer...

Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?

Info for this part was:

Employee Mike L
Expert Research:
Mike L
Employee Michael H
Expert Research:
Michael H
Employee Jeff D
Expert Research:
Jeff D
Employee Jameson C
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Employee Adam R
Expert Research:
Adam R
Employee Jeffrey L
Expert Research:
Jeffrey L
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Wilson B
Updated by:
Wilson B

At we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.