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  1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
  2. etrailer
  3. Races
  4. Standard Races
  5. 3500 lbs Axle
  6. 2.361 Inch O.D.
Replacement Race for L68149 Bearing

Replacement Race for L68149 Bearing

Item # L68111
Retail:$11.27
Our Price: $10.44
You Save: 7%
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Shipping Weight: 0.14 lbs
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etrailer Races - L68111
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Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with L68149 bearing. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Great Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Race for L68149 Bearing part number L68111 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 1-800-940-8924 for expert service.
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  • Reviews (136)
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  • Videos (2)
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - L68111

  • Races
  • Standard Races
  • 3500 lbs Axle
  • 2.361 Inch O.D.
  • Bearing L68149
  • etrailer
  • Race 68111

Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with L68149 bearing. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Features:

  • Outer diameter: 2.361"
  • Matching bearing (sold separately): L68149


L68111 Replacement Trailer Hub Race





Video of Replacement Race for L68149 Bearing

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.

Customer Satisfaction Score:


Customer Reviews

Replacement Race for L68149 Bearing - L68111

Average Customer Rating:  4.7 out of 5 stars   (136 Customer Reviews)

Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with L68149 bearing. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.

by:

This rating is for the packaging only, shipped very poorly with no protection. four sets of bearings thrown in a box,
Had to return. (photo enclosed).



by:

flawless transaction, customer service was a huge help in finding the correct parts.



by:

Purchased bearing races, tapered roller bearings, seals and dust cap to have for spares for our 2012 Catalina Santara 281BHS travel trailer. Quality products .



by:

Thrown in a box. No packaging. Nothing special.



by:

Bearings and seals in stock, delivered fast and exactly what I needed. Thank You for your great customer service..... ready to transport my boat 1000 miles to Florida....Jim

Jim D.

1/5/2015

everything is fine and working the way it should, Happy New Year



by:

All the parts I ordered were correct and of good quality. The customer service was outstanding!! I spent probably 30 minutes on the phone with Danielle as we tried to figure out exactly what axle was on my trailer ( wasn’t what it was supposed to be ). The parts showed up in a pretty reasonable amount of time considering the pandemic was in full swing. The prices also were very reasonable, as she searched her inventory for the best price, found a package deal for me with more than I was looking for at less cost than buying the parts individually. I will use them again for sure and definitely recommend them to anyone needing trailer parts.



by:

I had a hub and bearing go out on a boat trailer going down the road. Tried matching separate parts locally, but were not available. Was able to order all the parts from etrailer at one time. They had on hand and shipped right away. Parts were exactly what I was looking for. Perfect fit. Now if I would have known that the other side would have failed in the next 12 months I would have done them all at the same time.



by:

Ordered bearings and races for both hubs on my bass boat. Quality seemed better than local auto parts bearings. Also purchased other items on this order and was very pleased with products and customer service I received from etrailer. Informative, fast shipping, and courteous company to work with. Top notch!!



by:

Not on a trailer at all. But it was great to so easily find the bearing by dimensions. It is a single bearing under a 6 1/2' tall by 42" diameter lazy susan pantry cabinet in our kitchen. Completely loaded and working great.



by:

Installed these bearings and races on my trailer after failure of the manufacture bearings failed because they saved money by not properly lubing at the factory. These have held up well putting on over 40,000 miles and proper lubrication.



by:

Quality gets thrown out the window when the packaging is very extremely poor. You do not throw 4 bearings, 4 races and 2 seals in a envelope and let them flop and bang around during handling risking maring or scoring the bearings or races or possibly bending seals. This is a very poor way to handle or pack such items. Hope you will do something about this. Very disappointed.



by:

as ordered and quick delivery



by:

OEM bearings went out on recently acquired trailer, and part numbers obscured with age and damage. etrailer.com was very help in identifying and supplying correct replacement parts. First class service, high quality parts and timely delivery. Repaired and back in service an hour after parts delivery. Couldn't have gone smoother. Will definitely use etrailer.com in future.



by:

I am preparing for another long trip in our travel trailer. I recently replaced the brakes, and now all bearings and races. All the parts were perfect replacement.



by:

I was in need of replacement parts for my car trailer. I went on line and found e-trailer and reviewed their site, found everything I needed and ordered. The parts arrived in a very timely fashion and everything appears to be of high quality. The cost was also very competitive with other sellers on line. I will definitely be using e-trailer.com in the future should I require more trailer supplies. Thanks for the wonderful experience. Darrel from LaCrosse, Wi



by:

Installed the new race and bearing easily. Hauled the trailer loaded 900 miles. All went well.

Eldon

6/4/2016

Ive put about six thousand miles on the trailer since installing them. Everything is fine. Thankyou



by:

It is just as described and went on perfectly!! I always like getting things that fit right the first time and look to be quality made.
The two that were on my trailer were in very bad condition (JUNK), and these solved my problem very easily. Also, they are at a reasonable price. +++++ all the way!!
The staff that helped me are fantastic in knowledge of there product and SERVICE! One of the best parts is the Fast shipping! A PLUS

Thanks all the way to everyone!



by:

All the bearings, races, and seals I have purchased from etrailer have been good quality and have never failed. I have used them in my travel trailer for many years.



by:

Great service!



by:

All parts are as I ordered packed well and sent in a timely matter. Will order from company when I need more parts thank you for the service.

Anthony P.

8/8/2016

No problems on any parts i bought thank you!



by:

just what I needed to repair my trailer bearings, and it fit like a glove. Installation was simple and easy, and everything is working great.

Delivery was timely, and most important, correct!

Your product, attentiveness/responsiveness met my expectation.

Job well done!



by:

Great product, great service, especially Emily (thank you) Delivery on time and tracking great. Will only get etrailer from now on. Great catalog and how-to videos and info really helps. Highly recommend



by:

nice to able to buy only the part needed



by:

Product seems to be ok. I think your bearings and races should be wrapped individually to keepo from damaging them o. My shipment were just thrown in a box with crumpled paper on top.



by:

Item is very affordable. Customer service from strainer is one of the best you will find. They go out of their way to make sure your order is what you requested


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See what our Experts say about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Replacing Metal O-Ring That Fell Out of Trailer Hub When Repacking Bearings
    Sounds like you are referring to a bearing race. Since you mentioned the bearing number # L68149 I believe this might be the bearing you have. The matching race would then be the # L68111. If you can get me the bearing number you have I can pick you out what you need or you can select it on the filters of the page I attached and the correct race will be listed.
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  • Will TruRyde Bearing # L68149 Work With Imported # L68111 Race
    The replacement parts for the TruRyde Bearing # L68149 and the TruRyde Race # L68111 use industry-standard numbers. While it is preferable to use matching parts made by the same company, as long as the numbers match up for the parts you want to use, there should be no problem. In this case, the 2 numbers do match up as being parts that are compatible. I also recommend that you replace the bearings and races at the same time. We do not recommend using a new bearing with an old race because...
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  • Correct Race to Use with Trailer Bearing L68149
    For the trailer bearing # L68149 the correct race is the # L68111.
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  • What Bearing Works with Trailer Race L68111 and L68110
    The race part # L68110 works with the bearing part # L68149. This is the same as the race part # L68111.
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  • Will 7-Piece Installation Set for Bearings, Races, and Seals # PTW83020 Work with Race L68111
    Yes, the 7-Piece Installation Set for Bearings, Races, and Seals # PTW83020 includes a size that will work with your race part # L68111.
    view full answer...
  • Should You Replace the Grease Seals When Repacking Bearings
    Yes, you'll want to replace the grease seals when packing the bearings but the grease cap can be reused if it's still in good condition. If you don't know what bearings and seals you need, I have a few options for you to help with identifying these. The first and easiest method would be to crawl under the trailer and look for the axle tag on the beam. This should give an axle capacity which we can then use to find the bearings based off industry standards. For example, a 3,500 lb axle uses...
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  • What is Needed to Convert Trailer Wiring to LED
    To convert a trailer to LED taillights is just a matter of swapping the fixtures with LED models or replacing the bulbs of the fixtures with the LED version. Unlike vehicles you don't have to swap in any special harnesses or resistors. Since you mentioned wanting a kit with wiring though we do have options like the # TLL56RK that include that as well as a pair of LED taillights. I also attached a link to a page that has all of the LED taillights we offer as well. If you see a light...
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  • Correct Bearing Kit for 1997 EZ Loader Trailer
    I reached out to EZ Loader and found that you have a # L44649 outer bearing which uses the # L44610 race and # L68149 inner bearing with the # L68111 race. The correct replacement grease seal is the # 168255TB. We do not have a kit that includes the grease seal so you will need to purchase these individually.
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  • How To Figure Out the Correct Replacement Hubs for EZ Loader Boat Trailer
    In order to find the correct replacement hubs for your EZ Loader boat trailer you will need to take apart your current hub assembly and look at the bearings themselves; wipe away the grease and you should be able to see the part number stamped directly on them. If you are unable to find them, you would need to use a digital caliper and measure your spindle to the thousandths of an inch where the bearings ride. You can use the photo I've attached to see exactly where you need to measure....
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    Image 1 for
  • Replacement Bearings, Races, and Grease Seal for the EZ Loader Kit 300-015907
    The bearings, races, and grease seal that are included in the EZ Loader bearing kit 300-015907 that you referenced are found as parts # L68149, # L68111, # L44649, # L44610, and # 168255TB.
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  • Do L68110 and L68111 Races Work With L68149 Bearing
    The Race # L68111 and the Race # L68110 are both for the # L68149 bearing so if Dexter Axle is saying you need the slightly smaller one I'd go with that instead of the one that comes with the Bearing Kit # BK2-100.
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  • Difference in Bearing Race # L68111 and Bearing Race # L68110
    Race # L68111 has an outer diameter of 2.361 inches. Race # L68110 has an outer diameter of 2.327 inches. Based on these measurements, the two races are not interchangeable. They are designed for different size hubs, but can use the same # L68149 bearing. There may not be a pre-packaged kit with the L68110 race, but you can still get all the parts you need separately. I have included a link to our bearing and race main page for you to view.
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  • Recommended Replacement Bearing Kit with Race 6811
    The race part number 6811 you referenced is likely to be part # L68111, which fits with a # L68149 bearing, or race part # L68110. The difference between these two races is their outer diameter dimension. Part # L68110 has an outer diameter of 2.327-inches while part # L68111 has an outer diameter of 2.361-inches. You'll need to measure your hub bore with a precision caliper to determine which race will fit your hub. Bearing kit # BK2-100 includes inner race # L68111.
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  • Does A New Race Need To Go All The Way To The Inner Lip Of A Dexter 8-248 Hub
    If you pulled a # L68111 race out of your Dexter hub, I recommend staying with that size. The smaller # L68110 has the potential to rotate inside the hubs which can cause a good amount of heat that can therein damage the hub and spindle. With that said, there can be a couple things going on that are preventing you from getting the race seated all the way to the lip, which is where it needs to be. First, there is something blocking it. This can be something inside the hub that just needs...
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  • Can Races and Cotter Pins Be Added to the Bearing Kit for 3,500 lbs Axles
    The Bearing Kit for 3,500 lbs Axles part # DBRKHW35EZ does not come with any races but you can add the ones you need using part # L44610 and part # L68111. For the cotter pins you can use part # 165649.
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  • What Races Does Dexter Trailer Hub 8-147 Use
    The hub part # AKHD-545-35-K that replaces the Dexter 8-147 comes with races installed already but they are races # L68111 and # L44610.
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  • Outer Diameter of Races Included with Trailer Hub # AKIHUB-555-35-K
    The races included with the hub # AKIHUB-555-35-K are # L44610 which has an outer diameter of 1.980 inches and # L68111 which has an outer diameter of 2.361 inches.
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  • Replacement Inner Bearing & Race for 2012 Keystone Cougar with Al-Ko T44 Axles
    An AL-KO bearing K363192 corresponds to bearing part # L68149 and its matching race # L68111, as you noted. We offer these items and they are both linked to this email. If you need a bearing packer, we offer several including the no-mess Powerbuilt # ALL647646 which can be used along with a grease gun like # PTW54290.
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  • What is the Correct Race for Use with Bearing # L68149?
    The # L68110 Race in my application charts works with the # L68149 bearing. We do show that the # L68149 bearing also works with the # L68111 race and this may be the application you need. The # L68149 inner bearing is paired with the # L44649 outer bearing which takes a # L44610 race. You could also order the Bearing Kit for #84 Spindle, L44649/L68149 Bearings, 10-19 Double Lip Seal, # BK2-100, if the race mentioned above is the correct part for your application. This kit includes the...
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  • Replacement Bearing With 1.000 Inch Inner Diameter
    We do have a replacement bearing with a 1.000 inch inner diameter, and the part number for that and the race is the following: - Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing # L44643 - Replacement Race # L44610 There isn't a bearing with a 1.395 inch inner diameter, with the closest we have being 1.378 inches with Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing # L68149, which uses Race # L68111.
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  • Which Bearings and Seal Do I Need for My Lippert Axle 2663832
    The bearings you will need are part numbers # L68149 for the inner and # L44649 for the outer. The seal is # RG06-050. You will also want to inspect and possibly replace the races. If either need to be replaced you will need # L68111 for the inner race and # L44610 for the outer race. I've attached a help article that describes the entire process in detail.
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  • Replacement Oil Seals For A 2007 EZ Loader Single 3,700 Lb. Axle Trailer
    Thank you for the VIN. You are correct in that a failing oil seal will cause oil to escape from the bearings therefore, you will need to replace your seals. I called EZ Loader and they informed me that you have a 3,700 lb. axle. In order to replace the oil bath seals, I recommend using Kodiak XL ProLube Kit part # XLPROLUBE1980KIT. Depending on the amount of water that leaked through the seals, you may also want to replace the bearings and races depending on the amount of rust present...
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  • How to Determine Replacement Bearings and Seal for 3,500 lb EZ Loader Axle with Oil Bath Hub
    Typically for a 3,500 lb axle you will see an inner bearing # L68149 (race # L68111), outer bearing # L44649 (race # L44610), and then a grease seal that has inner and outer dimensions of 1.719" and 2.565" respectively. Since all of our oil bath seals are a bit larger than that I'll need you to use a digital caliper to measure your spindle where the seal rides, as well as your hub where your seal rides to ensure we get the correct replacement for you. When it comes to bearings and seals...
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  • What is the Inner Diameter of Trailer Bearings L44649 and L68149
    The inner diameter of bearing # L44649 is 1.063 inches. The inner diameter of bearing # L68149 is 1.378 inches. Both fit on a #84 spindle. The matching race for bearing L44649 is # L44610. And the matching race for bearing L68149 is # L68111. These bearings and races along with a grease seal associated with them (10-19 seal), cotter pin, and tang washer are available together in a kit, # BK2-100. The seal inner diameter is 1.719 inches.
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