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Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM11949

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM11949

Item # LM11949
Our Price: $6.17
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Shipping Weight: 0.17 lbs
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High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Great Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM11949 part number LM11949 can be ordered online at or call 1-800-940-8924 for expert service.
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  • Reviews (69)
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  • Videos (2)
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - LM11949

  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • 3000 lbs Axle
  • .750 Inch I.D.
  • Bearing LM11949
  • etrailer
  • Race LM11910

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


  • Inner diameter: 0.750"
  • Matching race (sold separately): LM11910
  • Application: outer bearing for AH15450E agricultural hub

LM11949 Replacement Bearing

Video of Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM11949

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.

Customer Satisfaction Score:

Customer Reviews

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM11949 - LM11949

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (69 Customer Reviews)

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


They had a hard to find hub for an old boat trailer axle. The seal was missing from the package, they wasted no time getting me what I needed.

I would buy from them again!


A simple bearing pack on an early 50's travel trailer axle turned nightmare. My local guys just said sorry. However, etrailer had the parts in stock at a great price. The site is very user friendly. What made finding the right parts easy was their excellent and complete listing of sizes and dimentions of seals, bearings and hub caps etc. that I needed. I found the parts to be of high quality. This combined with unprecedented customer service and fast shipping has earned them my future business. I would highly recomend them as a go to site for all your trailer needs. THANKS.


Customer support for finding replacement bearing, races and grease seals for a 1973 Apache popup trailer were spot on. All items fit perfectly, delivery was quick and customer support excellent. Thanks to all!

Bearing LM11949
Race LM11910
Bearing L44649
Race L44610
Grease Seal - 10-9


I am very satisfied with the purchasing process through finding the bearing that I needed , ordering it and then having someone personally contact me to let me know that it was shipped along with the tracking number and his phone number if I incurred any problems made this smooth and problem-free. I also really appreciate The Helpful videos. You do it right etrailer. You will continue to have my business thank you very much


I have a late 70's boat trailer that needed new tires and wheel bearings... no kits available so I called etrailer and talked to Kayla. We figured out everything over the phone, Kayla got all the the correct bearings and seals to me fast! The tires I ordered where out of stock, but I was upgraded to the galvanized wheel for free!!!

Thanks Kayla!!!


bearings were not individually wrapped and just thrown in a bag . metal on metal is not good they did not come with the outer race and are of very poor quality. shipping was on time .

Etrailer Expert

Jenny N.


I will have our customer service team reach out to you.


The trailer I'm rebuilding had obsolete bearings, but using a caliper I was able to find everything on etrailer. My local trailer supply place was ridiculously over priced so I went with etrailer. Thank You for the quick delivery.


I had a non standard axle, so had to call and verify bearings. Was very pleased with the service and that the person on the other end was very easy to understand. Shipment was fast and the parts fit. The price was very competitive.


Needed to replace the bearings on my trailer wheels. These were an exact replacement and worked great. Wish they were made in the USA, but other than that, I’m very happy with them.


Website is easy to use and my order was filled and sent in two days. Received parts ordered and was able to rebuild my boat trailer hubs with ease.


Bearings fit perfect!

Don M.


Everything is Great!


The bearings were delivered on time. There was very good communication as to the shipping dates and delivery times and when the bearings came they were exactly what was ordered.


good bearings I use them in off road highly abused environment and replace annually as preventative maintenance have never had one fail


etrailer had this part which I could not find locally. It was a perfect fit and sealed against the axle well.


Received Trailer bearings and misc parts as ordered.


Bearings fit perfect. Your catalog makes it easy to find correct parts the first time.


Trailer BearingsYour trailer bearings are excellent, better than the originals. service and delivery time also were far better than other companies. Thanks


Packing needs to be better. Everything in one box bouncing of each other.


Bearings have held up great after a year of use, great quality product.


Excellent price on these bearings which are hard to find where I live.


Great Deal. Very easy to use site. Great pictures so I could confirm what I was buying. Full measurements on everything. Super Prompt shipping. Thank You !

Mark T.


Bearings working out great a year later still...


Was shorted one bearing on my order but etrailer sent one out right away.


The bearings arrived undamaged and I installed them with no problems.


The correct bearings were received in a timely manner.


Bearings are very quality. I used them on my Sears gamefisher boat trailer.




Show More Reviews

See what our Experts say about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Which Grease Seal for LM11949 Bearing and LM11910 Race on Utility Trailer with No-Lug Hub
    We do not have any grease seals that match your dimensions. When part numbers are not visible on the old grease seals taking measurements of the spindles themselves is the next best option. But if you took your measurements on the old grease seal this could be the reason for no match since the seals may become deformed over time. You will obtain more accurate measurements using a precision dial caliper on the spindles themselves. If you can re-check the spindle dimensions using a precision...
    view full answer...
  • How to Select Replacement Trailer Wheels with Different Bolt Pattern
    We can help you check to see if you can install new hubs that have a different wheel bolt pattern. The key is knowing your current hubs' bearings, both inner and outer. A new hub can be installed so long as it uses the same bearings as the original hub. You'll want to pull one hub so you can remove its bearings and obtain their part numbers. The linked photo shows you the usual appearance of those numbers. Once you know the bearing numbers you can use the linked page to see our idler...
    view full answer...
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  • Replacement Hub Availability for a Hub that Has Bearing JLM 710949c
    That bearing number you listed doesn't cross reference with any of the ones that we carry, but there still might be a way you can determine if we have a hub that would work for you. You would need to use a digital or dial caliper and measure the spindle you have on your trailer where the bearings and seals ride. With that info I can see if we have something that would work.
    view full answer...
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  • Bearing and Race Availability LM11949 and LM11910
    We don't have a kit for the parts you need, but you can order them all individually. You would want the part # LM11949, part # LM11910. Since the bearing combination you referenced is uncommon you will need to measure to determine what seal you would need. To pick out the correct replacement seal you will need to use digital dial calipers to measure the inner and outer diameter of the seal. Or you can remove the seal and the part number should be stamped in the rubber part of the seal.
    view full answer...
  • How to Remove LM11949 Trailer Bearing for Repacement
    You need to pull the hub off of the trailer spindle. This will remove the bearing and make it easier to check to make sure everything is greased properly. Be sure to pick up the following parts so you get both the bearing and the race: - Bearing # LM11949 - Race # LM11910 I also recommend making sure all of your bearings are in good shape. If the one you're replacing is worn out or became damaged then there's a good chance the others are close to the same condition.
    view full answer...
  • Recommendation For Replacement Grease Seals That Fit Bearing LM67048 And Bearing LM11949
    Based on your information, I recommend replacement grease seal, Item # 168233. This fits your bearings, Item # LM67048 and Item # LM11949. You will only need one seal per hub.
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Bearing Availability with Inner Diameter of .75 inch and 1.25 inch
    The fact your outer bearing fits on a .75 diameter spindle means we aren't going to have a standard bearing kit to fit since that's not a standard dimension. Can you get me the C dimension as well? It could be that you need the part # LM67048 with a race # LM67010 which has an inner diameter of 1.25 and # LM11949 with race # LM11910 which has inner diameter of .75 inch.
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  • What Race Will Work WIth Bearing Number LM11949
    With The Bearing # LM11949 the race that we have that will work with it is Race # LM11910. The outer diameter of this race is 1.781 Inches. The closest race outer diameter we have to 1.940 is race # L44610. The outer diameter of that race is 1.980. We do not have a race that has an outer diameter of 1.940. The LM11949 bearing is not compatible with the L44610 race. I will leave a review link below with the specs of the race.
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  • Replacement Race and Seal for Bearing # LM11949
    The Replacement Race for # LM11949 Bearing is # LM11910. The seal is not as easy to determine, so I recommend using a digital caliper like # PTW80157 to measure the inside of the hub and the outside of the spindle to give you the inner and outer diameter for the seal needed. These measurements need to be precise or you will have a leak that can cause serious problems on your trailer. I've attached an article to assist and have also linked the page to your seal options.
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  • Replacement Bearing Buddy for Boat Trailer
    It sounds like you're looking for a replacement Bearing Buddy. The closest Bearing Buddy we carry to 1-3/4 inches is # BB1781 which fits a 1.781 hub bore. It works with outer bearing # LM11949
    view full answer...
  • Grease Seal SL150 Fits Bearing LM11949
    I am showing that you can use the Grease Seal SL150Grease Seal, item # SL150, and the Bearing, item # LM11949, together.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings for Spindle with 0.750 and 1.378 Bearing Measurements
    To replace you're bearings you need the bearing # LM11949 which has an inner diameter of 0.750" and then the bearing # L68149 which has an inner diameter of 1.378". To determine the grease seal I'll need you to measure the inner and outer diameter of your current grease seal. If you're needing to replace some hubs then you might have a hard time finding what you're needing. That bearing combination is not common and current hubs don't use them. You might be able to find what you're looking...
    view full answer...
  • Finding Correct Bearing Buddy for Camper Trailer
    To determine which Bearing Buddy protectors fit your trailer you need to measure the hub bore on the trailer's hubs. Use a digital caliper to be as exact as possible. Once you have that measurement use the link I attached to find our complete selection and choose the one that fits the measurement you took. For example, part # BB1781 fits a 1.781 inch hub bore on a hub that has outer bearing # LM11949
    view full answer...
  • Choosing Correct Bearing Buddy Size for 2001 Coleman Taos Tent Camper
    The particular bearing buddy you reviewed, part # BB1781, fits a hub bore of 1.781 inches and an outer bearing number # LM11949. Trailer and camper manufacturers may use different components in their products from one production run to another, so the only sure way to know what bearings are used in your Coleman Taos camper is to pull the wheel and hub and check the outer bearing number. Please refer to the photo provided. The next best method is to measure the hub bore using a digital...
    view full answer...
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  • How To Determine If Trailer Hub Bearing Is Full Of Grease
    If you have EZ lube spindles with the grease fitting on the end, as seen in the video you are referring to for Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing # LM11949, you will just fill until the new grease starts to come out of the spindle. If you don't have spindles with the grease fitting and you are referring to the grease fitting on a Bearing Buddy like Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB1781, then there is an over-fill protective spring that allows grease to overflow out of the cap when it's...
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  • Availability of Hub Assembly for a 12 inch Wheel with a 5 on 4-1/2 Bolt Pattern
    We do have a hub that is compatible with a 12 inch wheel and has a 5 on 4-1/2 inch bolt pattern. The Trailer Idler Hub Assembly for 2,500-lb Axles # DX22XR does have the outer bearing # LM11949 which has the 0.750 measurement that you took but you will want to make sure that the inner bearing # LM67048 fits (inner diameter is 1.250 inches) and the grease seal inner diameter of 1.688 inches is compatible with your spindle. If you check out the photo I attached you can look at the B, and...
    view full answer...
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  • Trailer Hub That Uses Bearings LM11949 and LM67048
    Both replacement trailer brakes and hub/drums should be selected based on the axle weight rating. The best way to select replacement hub/drums is to pull one of the hubs and remove its inner and outer bearings to obtain their part numbers. This is the easiest method to find a compatible hub. When not available measurements can be used but these need to be very precise, to the nearest thousandth of an inch, such as 1.234-inches. We do carry one bearing with an inside diameter of 0.75-inches,...
    view full answer...
  • Recommended Bearings for Boat Trailer Spindle Measurements
    We have the bearings for your spindle measurements, # LM11949 for outer and # LM67048 for your inner bearing. We do have one hub assembly that will work with these bearings. It is the Trailer Hub Assembly for 2,500-lb Axles - 5 on 4-1/2 - Cast # DX22XR.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Grease Seals For Coleman Colombia Pop-Up Camper
    The grease seals that will work for your trailer are part # CE16305A. These seals have an inside diameter of 1-inch and an outside diameter of 1-7/8 inches and are designed to fit a 3/4-inch straight spindle. For replacement bearings I recommend part # LM11949, and the race that matches this bearing is part # LM11910.
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  • Replacement Bearings and Seals for Older Trailer
    Thank you for providing the original bearing and seal numbers from your old trailer. These part reference numbers are often the best method for finding replacements, although especially with older trailers often alternate parts may have found their way into the trailer during its lifetime. We do have the bearings # LM67048 and # LM11949 as well as their matching races, parts # LM67010 and # LM11910. Please note that both of these bearings have an application as an OUTER bearing. The part...
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  • Hub for 2500 Lb Axle Using LM67048 and LM 11949 Bearings
    If your existing hub is ha a 5-on 4-1/2 inch bolt circle and uses the LM67048 inner and LM11949 outer bearing, the # DX22XR hub would indeed be the correct replacement for you. To determine shipping costs, add the product to a cart then input your zip/postal code. The various sipping methods and their related costs will appear.
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  • Replacing the Hub on an Older Homemade Trailer With Bearing LM11949
    The hub assembly we offer with bearing # LM11949 is an agricultural hub, # AH15450ECOMP. This hub is intended for agricultural use, and the outer bearing measurement you mentioned does not match the outer bearing used by this hub and spindle. This axle uses bearings that are nonstandard, so it may be easier for your to swap out the axle for a new one that uses standard bearings. I've added a link to a list of all our available axles to see if we have one that will work for you.
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  • Bearing Kit that Fits 2009 Rockwood Ultra Lite Camper
    The correct bearing kit for your 2009 Rockwood Ultra Lite camper would be the part # BK2-100 since your trailer would have either a 3,500 or 4,400 lb trailer axle and this kit fits both.
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  • How to Pick Out Trailer Hub Replacement for 1986 Shorelandr
    Based on the bearings you have currently the only hub we offer that would fit as a replacement is the part # AH15450ECOMP which has a 4 on 5 inch bolt pattern. I attached a help article on determining bolt pattern so that you can verify you have the same.
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