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Digital Multimeter with 42" Long Test Leads - LED Display

Digital Multimeter with 42" Long Test Leads - LED Display

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Performance Tool Electrical Tools

  • Testers
  • Multimeter
  • Performance Tool
  • Yellow


  • Safely troubleshoot a variety of automotive, household, and shop electrical circuits
  • Test electrical components for faulty wiring and voltage
  • Verify voltage on engine sensors, ignition, fuel systems, and charging systems
  • Large digital LED display with UL-listed leads and probes
  • Test leads are 42" long

W2969 Performance Tool Digital Automotive Multimeter

Item # PT89ZR

Installation Details PT89ZR Installation instructions



Video of Digital Multimeter with 42" Long Test Leads - LED Display

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Review of Performance Tool Tools for Wiring - Digital Multimeter - PT89ZR

Ellen: Hey, everybody. I'm Ellen here at etrailer.com, and we're going to take a quick look at the Performance Tools digital multimeter. This is something that's really handy to have any time you're doing any kind of electrical job, or you're trying to test out any wiring, maybe do some troubleshooting with some wiring that's gone bad, you want to test out your battery, really anything along those lines. So a lot of times these are just something that's handy to have in your toolbox for any of those sort of instances.inaudible 00:00:25 about this is that it does give you a pretty big digital display that makes it easy to see what's going on. You get the leads that are about 42 inches long, so should be plenty of space, or plenty of length to get connected to whatever you want. And then there's also the included attachments that have a little alligator clamp, so that makes it easy, especially for testing out a battery without having to hold the little prongs over it the whole time.

So let's take a closer look and kind of run through some of those basic tests that you might end up doing.So here's our little guy, we've got a little kickstand at the back, makes it easy to just set this on a surface, set it on your trailer, on the floor, and we'll still be able to see what's going on. I'm going to hook up my leads here, they are color-coded so it makes it easy to remember what goes where. Got a couple little ends going over the prongs here. You'd probably end up losing these, honestly, but they do kind of help protect these. They are a little bit sharp, so if you've got these in a toolbox, it's kind of nice to have the caps just to keep them from ending up in your hand.There's also a couple of caps going over these ends, which I doubt you'll ever use, unless you're pretty meticulous about taking things apart and putting them away.

I'm just going to connect this up here. Most folks like to just keep the leads attached, makes it a little easier, so you're not having to take things apart every time. I'm going to put my alligator clamps over so we can test out our battery first. You don't have to, of course, you can just put the prongs over and it's not really too hard. You just want to make sure if you are going to use these, the inside there, this might be kind of hard to see, there's a little sleeve that that prong needs to fit into.

So just want to line that up to make sure it makes good contact all the way around.To turn this on, you just need to turn the dial away from the off position. So I'm going to turn it around to the 12 volt DC portion so I can test out my battery here. Swing those guys over and then set up my little kickstand there, and then just want to match the leads to my battery. We got red going to positive, black going a negative. And you can see our display showing what's going on there, so about 12 volts, that's what we should expect to get out of this.

Now there is a hold button, it's going to be that yellow one kind of on the left-hand side, to freeze the display at whatever it's reading out. Sometimes on other multimeters, if you press that, it'll freeze it at whatever the highest rating is. But this, it's just going to freeze it at whatever it is at the time on the screen, so that's something to keep in mind.To reset it, just press it again. I've run into this, though. I'm not a huge fan of the way this functions on these multimeters, because if you don't have it connected, maybe you don't realize that you have the hold button pressed, so if you try to go and use it, it's still at zero, and it could be a little confusing. It might make you think that there's something wrong with the multimeter, but it's just that that hold is on. So as soon as we press it again, it's going to give us our true reading, but that's just something to keep in mind there.There is another multimeter available from Performance Tools that has a little bit bigger screen, and that at least does have a little indicator to let you know when the hold is on, which I kind of like, just so that you can, if something's going on and you don't realize the hold is active, it gives you a visual cue. But again, if something's going on wrong or you're just not getting a readout, or it's not changing, press that hold button and see what happens, and that should make it pretty easy.Another common way to use this is to test out wiring functions, so if you we're to plug this in and then you want to test what each port is to make sure you get things wired up, this would be another way to do that. So you'd have current going through, and then I think usually this guy is the ground, and then you'd want to run through all the functions and test out what goes where, so that's a pretty common way to do it. It does give you pretty long lead, so it makes it easy to fit that into any kind of wiring plug and get connected to make sure that you can test things out, do your troubleshooting and what have you.So all in all, this is a pretty standard multi-meter. As I mentioned, there are other couple available here at etrailer.com. I'd say this is kind of the middle of the road one we have. Here's continuity, it does give you an audible alert. So if you want to test a fuse or something like that to make sure that there's continuity, you can use that function. It does come with instructions so that you know what all those functions are and kind of give you the tutorial of how to use it. But all in all, this one is probably the nicest, just because it is still a digital display so that makes it easy to see what's going on. But it's also pretty compact, so if you want something just a little bit smaller than the other ones, this is a pretty good option. And it does still give you those alligator clamp attachments if you want to use those to make it a little bit easier to test out something like a battery.That's pretty much all there is to it for our quick look at this digital multimeter. I hope that this has been helpful in deciding if this is the right one for you. We do have a lot of other wiring, trailer and RV accessories available here at etrailer.com, so be sure to check them out. Thanks for watching.


Customer Reviews

Digital Multimeter with 42" Long Test Leads - LED Display - PT89ZR

Average Customer Rating:  5.0 out of 5 stars   (2 Customer Reviews)


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See what our Experts say about this Performance Tool Electrical Tools



  • Troubleshooting P3 Brake Controller that Has Short Error Code at 5 mph
    Most likely you have a couple wires wanting to contact each other when the vehicle is moving fast enough to shake the wires which is why the short goes away at a stop but then alternates between the two error codes you mentioned. If the problem only happens when the trailer is connected it's on the trailer's side of the wiring but if all the time it's on the vehicle side and most likely near the controller itself.
    view full answer...
  • Should There be Continuity with the Brake Controller and Ground Pins on a Vehicle 7-Way Connector
    Yes, when your brake controller is sending power back to your 7-Way connector you should have continuity with a Multimeter # PT89ZR between that and the ground pin. To ensure that you are sending power back to the brake controller pin set your brake controller to the highest setting and then have someone use the manual override. This will allow you to check for continuity. If you don't have continuity then that means something is wrong with either your brake controller or ground wiring. Let...
    view full answer...
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  • Troubleshooting 6 Gallon Atwood Water Heater Not Working on Electric But Works on LP
    For your Atwood water heater number gc6aa-10e, it sounds like you have either a wiring issue or an element issue. To determine if a replacement is needed you will want to make sure the connections are good to and from your switch. I recommend using a multimeter like # PT89ZR to check your wiring. If the wiring is good to your element, then you will want to replace the electric element and you should be good to go.
    view full answer...
  • Troubleshooting Aluminum Trailer Wiring with a Multimeter
    Using a multimeter like # PT89ZR set to the 20V setting will work well as you stated for the vehicle side because there is already a 12V power supply. To test a trailer you have a couple of different options to provide that power needed for testing; you can connect it to a vehicle that you've already confirmed has trailer wiring that works correctly or you can use a battery to supply 12V power to each wire function on your trailer individually. By adding power to the trailer harness,...
    view full answer...
  • Is There Universal Maximum Output on 12V Pin of 7-Way
    The 12 volt accessory pin on the 7-way of your 2017 Chevy Silverado 2500 should have constant power, though there isn't truly a universal maximum sustained output. If you are using the 7-Function Digital Multimeter # PT89ZR for example, and are getting a consistent reading that is 12 volts or something close then everything is working as intended. There will, of course, be a bit of fluctuation but you should expect a reading that is constantly in the 12 volt range.
    view full answer...
  • Using Circuit Tester to Test Trailer Wiring to Find Problem
    First thing you should do at this point is test the 4-way of the wiring harness with a circuit tester part # BTMT15 for voltage on all of the right pins when the taillight signals are being applied. Just like in the video I attached. If the voltage checks out there but the trailer lights still don't function right then the problem is on the trailer wiring. That would mean that problem is either due to a ground issue or a short issue. Make sure that the trailer side connector are clean...
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Lights Only Work When Door is Open on 2011 F-150
    You must be somehow tied into the illumination circuit on what I assume is a factory harness on your 2011 Ford F-150. What you should do is start by testing your harness with Multimeter # PT89ZR to see if it is getting 12 volts when the door is open, which will verify that it is indeed tied into that circuit. Since it is a factory harness you are going to need to go to your local Ford dealer to have them examine exactly how this issue came to be, as this is a first and strange is certainly...
    view full answer...
  • Testing Brake Magnets on Trailer
    We actually have a great article on exactly this subject, which I have linked below. To test the individual brake magnets on the trailer you will need to use a multimeter like # PT89ZR that reads amps and ohms. You will sever the magnet wires and connect the multimeter between the positive post of a 12V battery and one of the wires (it doesn't matter which one). Then connect the other magnet wire to the negative battery terminal. If the amperage is more or less than it should be (see attached...
    view full answer...
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  • Troubleshooting Electric Trailer Brakes Not Engaging
    If you have voltage coming out of your 7-way but the trailer brakes are not engaging, the issue is going to be on the trailer side wiring or possibly the brake magnets themselves. Inspect the power wires to the magnets and look for wires that may be pinched or otherwise damaged and fix as necessary. You'll also need to make sure the ground wires are attached to bare metal surfaces and free of any paint, dirt or corrosion. A weak ground can mean not enough amperage is being applied to the...
    view full answer...
  • Troubleshooting Not All Trailer Brakes Working
    I don't fully understand what you are saying by the brake controller but not the brake pedal applying the trailer brakes but the meat of the issue is that just one of your brakes is working. With something like this it could be the wiring to the brake magnets or possibly the magnets themselves. Inspect the power wires to the magnets and look for wires that may be pinched or otherwise damaged and fix as necessary. You'll also need to make sure the ground wires are attached to bare metal...
    view full answer...
  • Multimeter to Test Continuity of Fuse
    While you should be able to see if you have a blown fuse which would confirm it does not have continuity, the correct way to test continuity is with a multimeter, the 7-Function Digital Multimeter # PT89ZR which has a continuity mode. I've added a link to a video review of this for you to check out as well.
    view full answer...
  • What Should Voltage be on Brake Magnets
    Your brake magnets should have 12 volts - or very close to it - when the gain on the brake controller is turned all the way up. If you are getting only 10 volts then it is possible there is corrosion in your trailer connectors that may be hampering it. Also make sure your ground connections at your brake magnets are secure and free from any type of corrosion. I have added a link to a help article on testing trailer brake magnets for you which I recommend taking a look at.
    view full answer...
  • Troubleshooting Weak Trailer Brakes
    There are numerous potential issues here with your trailer brakes being weak, and one thing that may be the issue is that you have a weak ground. I say that because a weak ground would explain why the amperage to the brake magnets is almost certainly not getting through. You also definitely want to test your magnets for the proper voltage with Multimeter # PT89ZR. I have added a link to a help article on how to properly test brake magnets which I highly recommend taking a look at. In regards...
    view full answer...
  • How to Verify 12V Pin on 7-Way Connector is Active
    To verify that the 12V pin on your Sequoia's 7-Way connector is active, you can use a multimeter like # PT89ZR to test the voltage at the 12V pin (1 o'clock position) on the connector while the vehicle is running. You can also check the voltage closer to the trailer battery to make sure it is reaching its destination. If you are looking for something to actually monitor or verify its charge while you are on the road, we do not currently have something that has this capability. As long...
    view full answer...
  • Troubleshooting Trailer Brake Magnets That Receive Only 9.5 Volts from Trailer Wiring
    You can expect some minor voltage drop between your trailer's junction box and the brake magnet wiring but losing 2.5V suggests you have a short in your brake circuit. I suggest tracing all brake circuit wiring from the j-box to each of the brake assemblies. Look for worn insulation, cracked insulation, points where the wiring may touch the trailer frame or moving suspension parts. Also check that any splices are solid. Also make sure that the magnet wire you're using as ground is solidly...
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Fuse Blows When Two Series-Wired 6V Batteries are Connected
    A single 12V battery can be replaced with two 6V batteries that are wired in series. This wiring arrangement is shown in the linked image. Two 12V batteries in series produce 24 volts; two 6V batteries in series produce 12 volts. If the batteries are wired in series, the positive terminal of one battery will be connected to the negative terminal of the other. This would double the output of the batteries, so two 6V batteries wired in series would provide 12 volts of output. Current capacity...
    view full answer...
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  • Troubleshooting 2016 Ram Factory Brake Controller Not Recognizing Restored Trailer
    Since the integrated brake controller on your 2016 Ram 1500 worked fine on a different trailer, the issue definitely appears to be somewhere on your restored 1972 Airstream. I first recommend checking the 7-Way on the trailer to make sure there isn't any built-up dirt or corrosion behind the pins, cleaning out as needed. Then you will just need to check the newly installed wiring to make sure there aren't any pinched or exposed areas that might be causing a short. Also check to make sure...
    view full answer...
  • I Have Voltage At The Truck But No Voltage At The Trailers Running Lights
    Not to worry, this is a common issue and I will be happy to help you get your running lights working again. Since you already checked the fuses and relays on your vehicle. The next step is to inspect the trailer connector for corrosion in the connector, inspect the wiring and where the harness connects to the truck wiring for any shorts. The next step would be to check all of the grounds for a loose connection or corrosion and clean and relocate as necessary. If the above steps do not...
    view full answer...
  • Electric Brake Magnet Troubleshooting and Testing
    You are correct that the amps and voltage are not the same. If you put your multi-meter like # PT89ZR between a spliced brake output wire on your vehicle between the brake controller and the trailer connector socket with your trailer connected to your vehicle, you should get an amperage reading of 7.5 to 8.2 amps for a single axle trailer, 15.0 to 16.3 amps for a tandem axle trailer, or 22.6 to 24.5 amps on a triple axle trailer. If the amperage reading is less then the specified amounts...
    view full answer...
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  • Troubleshooting Heating Element on Water Heater
    To test your heating element you will need a multimeter like # PT89ZR. You will set your meter to the lowest ohm setting and put one probe on each of the screws on the heating element. You should get something between 10 and 16 ohms. When one is all rusted or corroded you would get no reading to show there is no continuity and it would most likely throw your breaker. Since your water is really cold, you most likely have a failed heating element and will need to replace it.
    view full answer...
  • Troubleshooting New Trailer Brakes That are Locking Up
    You might want to start out by checking the wiring for your trailer brakes. There could be a short on that circuit (bad ground or damaged wiring) that is causing things to act weird. Most likely you have a bad brake magnet. Take a multimeter, like part # PT89ZR, and test your brake magnet that is acting up with a 12V battery. I have attached a link to a helpful article that goes over how to test a brake magnet for you to follow. If that doesn't fix it let me know and I can help you continue...
    view full answer...
  • Troubleshooting Only One Trailer Light Working
    If you have replaced all of your trailer wiring but your lights still aren't working, save one, then I would have to think that you either need new bulbs or new light assemblies. Before swapping all of that out it would be worth testing your vehicle connector to make sure that it is sending power. I'm not sure what multimeter that you have but if you check out the attached photo of the 7-Function Digital Multimeter # PT89ZR I've highlighted where you'd connect the black and red wires as...
    view full answer...
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  • Troubleshooting Uneven Braking on Sides of Trailer That Switches Sides with New Brake Assemblies
    You do have a very interesting situation on your hands. It would make more sense for you to have the same problem on the same side but the fact that it jumped from one side to the other leads me to believe that it is a wiring issue. Start off by checking the grounds for your brakes. Make sure they are secure and connected to a clean, bare-metal surface. If those look good then check the other wiring that is surrounding your brakes. If you have a jumper wire that runs along your axle (see...
    view full answer...
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  • Troubleshooting Trailer Disconnect Message On 2010 F-150XL With Factory Integrated Brake Controller
    Seeing as your brake controller only gets that signal when you hit the manual override on your controller, I suggest adjusting your controller and seeing if the difference in voltage sent causes that error message to not be triggered and yet still function correctly. Next, I would check the brake magnets on your trailer as they may be wearing out and the extra voltage is causing them to short. I've attached an article to help you test them since this is a new occurrence using the same...
    view full answer...


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Info for this part was:

Employee Kathleen M
Installed by:
Kathleen M
Employee Matthew S
Written by:
Matthew S
Employee Daron K
Edited by:
Daron K

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