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Grease Cap, 2.72" OD Drive In with Plug - Qty 2

Grease Cap, 2.72" OD Drive In with Plug - Qty 2

Item # rg04-120
Our Price: $20.80
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Shipping Weight: 0.37 lbs
Grease Cap 2.72 Inch OD Drive Inch with Plug
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Great Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from Redline. Grease Cap, 2.72" OD Drive In with Plug - Qty 2 part number rg04-120 can be ordered online at or call 1-800-940-8924 for expert service.
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Redline Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - rg04-120

  • Caps
  • E-Z Lube Grease Cap
  • 2.717 Inch O.D.
  • Redline

Trailer Hub Grease Cap, 2.72" OD Drive In with Plug
  • Quantity: 2

Video of Grease Cap, 2.72" OD Drive In with Plug - Qty 2

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.

Customer Satisfaction Score:

Customer Reviews

Grease Cap, 2.72" OD Drive In with Plug - Qty 2 - rg04-120

Average Customer Rating:  4.7 out of 5 stars   (131 Customer Reviews)


What is pictured (and is what my current caps look like) is not what I received. However, it fits so I'm not going to complain. The one I received is a dome-like affair and not squared off like the ones in the picture.

Does it matter? That's up to you. Me? I prefer my stuff to look the same; especially as I plan on selling my trailer.

Yes, it does matter! You should get the part that you ordered, for sure. I have already sent your information to our customer service team and they will be in touch with you.
-- Etrailer Expert Brooke M - 11/11/2022


This is one of those times where I really needed to stop and take the time to write a review. If you look at the pictures you will see that I have a tri-axle trailer and I had no paperwork on the brakes when I bought it from the original owner. So I call e trailer and I get Cathy T on the phone. I ask her if trailers are her specialty and she says "sure they are" I said ok great lets dig in but I don't know what I have but I told her I did have a caliper to measure. So after about an hour on the phone she questioned me enough to figure out the front and rear bearing AND race sizes, the seal size AND the replacement break assembly kit to use. I never once felt rushed and she was awesome !! There was a lot to ask about to make sure we got it right and guess what Cathy T NAILED IT. Check out the picture of the parts on the bench. Every part was exactly what I needed. It all worked out perfectly and I can not say enough good things about my experience with e trailer and Cathy T. If you EVER need help with a trailer E Trailer is the ONLY place to go. The price is incredible and the service is even better. What an awesome organization. Thank you E Trailer and Cathy T


These parts worked as advertised No complaint to whatsoever


Ordered the parts by phone. Melissa was highly knowledgeable and extremely professional. Would recommend eTrailer to anyone that needs trailer parts or trailer hitches.


These were a perfect replacement on our dump trailer at a much more reasonable price. I didn't see any difference in quality between these and assemblies at double the cost. Next time I need trailer parts I will probably shop around, (that's just what I do) then go to to buy.




Got what I need and was shipped fast!


Every part fits like OEM and the prices are very good! Love buying from, they are the best and if you have questions they HAVE the answers.


Bought these as a spare incase I need t hem.


I received the grease caps in a timely manner and they have worked great. Unlike the ones previously purchased locally, these have stayed on the trailer for over a year now. They are also a lot easier to install than the dome caps, these have the ridge around the base to press them on. I would recommend them to anyone wanting a quality product

The grease caps are still working great. I still have the extras I bought just in case one came The grease caps are still working great after a year or so. I still have extras I bought just in case one came off. Great product and excellent service.
Bill T - 12/05/2018


These were easy to install replacements for my dump trailer. The old ones were bent & leaking from being smashed by my backhoe.

Still working great....Holding grease with no leaks. The caps I took off were flinging grease all over as I drove down the road. To this point, the trailer is clean with the new ones!
Dave J - 04/23/2021


Great affordable replacement for 2014 Montana fifth wheel I got the 2 pack only needed one but now have a spare


Exactly what I was looking for to make my recently acquired trailer a bit more owner friendly. Being able to pop the center cap out of these hub caps and apply grease to the wheel bearings without pulling the hubs/brake drums is a big plus.


Just received my order of new backing plate assemblies and some misc small parts. Ordered on line late Sunday night, confirmed I had ordered the right parts Monday morning before shipment went out. Customer service by phone was superb and the gal I talked with was perfect. Shipment was on my porch Friday afternoon. I did open box and inspect shipment that arrived completely intact/good shape and all looked good at this point. Not sure when will get to the brakes on the trailer but will post again when the job is done. So far nothing but good to say about Regards, John.


It is nice to know of that will work with you. I ordered 4 bearing dust covers for my trailer and they were too big. I called them on the next business day and the sent a return authorization number and reordered the correct ones no issues or hassle. I highly recommend them for trailer parts. The person I spoke to was very polite. I will send another review when I receive the correct dust covers


I had ordered some parts online to rebuild the suspension on one of our trailers. Customer service called me a short time later to inform me that they were out of stock on some items, they asked if it was possible to substitute some items. She was able to find the exact parts I needed in a different kit. The parts came within 3 days, very well packed, and they fit perfectly! This is the 3rd time I've ordered from etrailer and they have exceeded my expectations every time. EXCELLENT customer service and quality parts.


My customer was completely satisfied with the product I’m completely satisfied with price and delivery thank y’all very much Damian CSM AutoZone 4254


The two sets of axle grease covers/caps I'd ordered arrived promptly and fit the axles perfectly. The website was easy to order from and provided good product lines to choose from. The product item videos were of great assistance. Thanks


I damaged parts on my trailer and I order replacement parts not knowing I had submitted the order twice. The good people of etrailer had a question about my order and went out of there way to contact me to see if I still wanted the two order of the same thing. I really appreciate there helpfulness. Etrailer Thank You.
I will be ordering parts again from them.


A little slow took a week and a half

Since these items are so light, they ship USPS Mail. Heavier items ship UPS. Just something to consider for next time!
-- Etrailer Expert Sierra K - 11/10/2021


Exact fit, measure what you have first to ensure you get the correct item.


These fit as described, but you get what you pay for. The metal is very thin, distorting while installing them. The rubber plugs that come with them are also thin. Would not recommend this particular item.


We bought several things in the last few days to rework a trailer, everything bolted up and worked. The price is great, the quality is good and they were delivered quickly to our front door. It's the only place to look for trailer parts . The trailer is on the road today.


Make sure to get these to keep the bearing clean and dry!


I like the fast delivery of your products, I run my trailers hard and need a dependable supplier of parts. Thank you again and I will be ordering again as service price are what is important James

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  • Could Cap of Dexter Hub # 8-219-13UC3 be Replaced with EZ Lube Cap
    Yes, you could replace the dust cover/cap of the # 8-219-13UC3 with an EZ lube style cap and you'd basically have an EZ lube hub as that's the only difference. For that you'd only need the # rg04-120 for a pair and you'd be set.
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  • Comparing 21-43-1 and rg04-120 Grease Caps
    The # 21-43-1 and the # rg04-120 are both drive-in style grease caps with a 2.72" outer diameter. However, the # rg04-120 comes with 2 grease caps and also includes the plugs. The # 21-43-1 is a single grease cap and the rubber plug # DC-RP is not included.
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  • How to Pick Out Replacement Dust Cap for Trailer Hub
    We definitely can help but we need to know the diameter of the cap so that we can pick out the correct one. You'll need to remove the one you have and measure the outside diameter of the cap where it fits into the hub and we'll be able to pick you out what you need. If you have a 1.99 inch diameter you'd want the part # RG04-040, if you have a 2.45 inch diameter you'd need part # DC250L-DCRP, or if you have 2.72 inch you'd want part # RG04-120. To measure your hub bore you'd need the...
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  • Grease Cap for Dexter 8-285 Trailer Hub
    An 8-285 hub does not have the correct bearings or races to work with Bearing Buddies, so you would need to use a standard grease cap. For example, the # 8-285-11 hub and drum needs Trailer Hub Grease Cap # 21-43-1 for a quantity of one or # RG04-120 for a quantity of two.
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  • Converting Drum Brakes to Disc Brakes on a Trailer With Triple 7,000 lb Axles
    The Kodiak Disc Brake Kit, part # K2HR712, that you referenced will fit axles that are rated for 7,000 lbs that use a #42 spindle. It will work with 16 inch and larger wheels that use an 8 on 6-1/2 bolt pattern. Since axles can vary depending on the manufacturer, as long as your current spindle is a #42 and/or uses the correct bearing, races, and seals, then these disc brakes will be the perfect upgrade for you. The correct bearings, races, and seals are as follows: Bearings (sold separately) Inner...
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  • Dexter Hub and Drum Assembly With 2.72" Diameter Grease Cap Flange
    It sounds like you're looking for a hub and drum assembly that can use the # rg04-120 grease cap that fits a 2.72" grease cap flange. Grease seals for a 5,200-7,000 lb axle have a 2.125" or 2.25" inner diameter and a 3.376" outer diameter. The Dexter # 42866UC3-EZ matches your capacity, bolt pattern, and uses a 2.72" grease cap. As long as your current setup uses a # GS-2250DL grease seal with a 2.25" inner and 3.376" outer diameter this will work as a replacement.
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  • Replacement Brake Shoes and Drums for a 2013 Keystone Montana Mountaineer with Dexter 7K Axles
    The correct replacement brake shoes for a 2013 Keystone Montana Mountaineer with Dexter 7,000 lb Nev-R-Adjust Braking Assemblies is going to be the Replacement Shoe and Lining for Nev-R-Adjust 12" x 2" Electric part # K71-675 for the left hand side or part # K71-676 for the right hand side. That said, we also offer the Dexter Nev-R-Adjust Electric Trailer Brake Kit part # 23-464-465 which will save you some work. If you need new hubs/drums, the Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly part...
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  • Recommended EZ Lube Hubs For 7000 lb Capacity Axle 8 Bolts With 5/8 Inch Wheel Studs
    For a 5/8 inch stud option without the EZ Lube, I recommend the Dexter Axle Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly - 7,000-lb Axles - 8 on 6-1/2 # 8-219-18UC3. This will have the grease cap and not the EZ Lube. However, you can add the EZ lube grease caps with plug that will fit, they are # RG04-120. If you want a complete kit, we don't have the 5/8 inch stud size, but for the 1/2 inch stud option, I recommend the Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly - 7,000-lb E-Z Lube Axles - 12" Diameter - 8 on 6-1/2...
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