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  1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
  2. TruRyde
  3. Seals
  4. Grease Seals - Double Lip
  5. 3.376 Inch O.D.
  6. 2.125 Inch I.D.
10-10 Grease or Oil Double-Lip Seals - Qty 2

10-10 Grease or Oil Double-Lip Seals - Qty 2

Item # RG06-090
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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TruRyde 2.125 Inch I.D. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - RG06-090
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Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from TruRyde. 10-10 Grease or Oil Double-Lip Seals - Qty 2 part number RG06-090 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 1-800-496-5010 for expert service.
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TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - RG06-090

  • Seals
  • Grease Seals - Double Lip
  • 3.376 Inch O.D.
  • 2.125 Inch I.D.
  • TruRyde


  • (2) Double-lipped grease seals

I.D.
O.D.
Use With:
2.125 3.376 E-Z Lube and Oil 5,200, 6,000 and 7,000 LB Axles


Seal Cross-Reference
Dexter #
Transcom #
National #
NOK #
Chicago Rawhide #
010-010-00
21334TB
470972
AD8717EO
21352



RG06-090 Grease / Oil Seals 10-10 (Pair) - Double Lip Seals





Video of 10-10 Grease or Oil Double-Lip Seals - Qty 2

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

10-10 Grease or Oil Double-Lip Seals - Qty 2 - RG06-090

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (184 Customer Reviews)


by:

I was having a terrible time locating seals for my trailer so I went back to my Canadian supplier (Hitchweb) and without hesitation they gave me the contact info for etrailer. The parts person was knowledgeable and committed to find seals for my trailer. Shipping was very quick and the seals are a perfect match, thank you. I will definitely use etrailer again. Randy


Comments
I use these on a 14’ dump trailer that is used weekly in all kinds of Canadian weather and am pleased to say these seals have held up very well with no leaks and we check them regularly as a safety plan.
Randy - 06/16/2022


by:

I gave part numbers and bearings are correct BUT grease seals are wrong (needed to be double lip seals and single seals came plus not right part number )


Comments
I will have our customer service team reach out to you.
-- Etrailer Expert Jenny N - 11/01/2021


by:

Seals arrived 3 days of original estimated delivery, this was much appreciated since my boat is unusable while the trailer is being repaired. These seals are special and etrailer had them in stock. They fit my Dexter axles on my Pacific trailer which have a slightly smaller hub seal diameter than most of the other trailers. They are also designed to handle both grease and oil bath systems, I'm converting to oil bath.




by:

The inside and outside dimensions are the same as my seals that are being replaced. But the thickness is not the same. What I received from etrailer are about 1/8th inch thinner than my seals. They will work I hope over time. They are just not as heavy duty as my original seals.




by:

This is my third order from e-trailer and like the others I have been well pleased. I was having trouble finding these grease seals for my travel trailer but e-trailer had them in stock and at a reasonable price. I installed them and they fit perfectly. I would highly recommend this company.


Comments
The grease seals are still doing what they are supposed to do. That is keep the grease where it is supposed to be. Not on the braking parts.Phil B.
Phil B - 05/18/2014


by:

Excellent service, and excellent product quality, and very excellent price
picture of new brake assembly from etrailer




by:

Received parts very quickly. Quality products. Very pleased. Had to replace pads due to easy lub system failure. Grease pumped in past seals and saturated pads was on and in everything. More cost effective to replace whole assembly. Assembly fit perfectly replacing lippert factory parts.




by:

The bearings and seals were an exact fit and worked as expected. Teresa J. is very knowledgeable and helped me figure out the right parts, even though I did not have axle data tags to work with. I highly recommend etrailer and will order from them if I need any parts in the future.


Comments
Everything is still working exactly as it should. I still consider this to be an all around great experience.
Kent C - 04/17/2021


by:

The seals arrived in perfect condition and are exactly what I needed to finish my job on the camper.




by:

I installed, and adjusted the 4-items : AKHD-655-6K drum assembles without any problems.
Also glad I ordered the extra RG06-090 seals with 2.125 diameter because they turned out to be the correct ones.
I highly recommend etrailer parts to anyone looking for good quality products.



Comments
The AKHD-655-6K drum assembles are working just fine. Thanks for the quality product.
Eugene A - 06/23/2018


by:

Fit perfect on a PJ dump with 7k axles.




by:

I normally don't order things online so this was a new experience for me and it was awesome! I will definitely use etrailer.com again and recommend them to others. The seals I ordered were the right ones and came quickly.




by:

Appear to be comparable to OEM. Measurements are correct for my RV's axles. I have not installed them so I cannot comment on longevity.




by:

Do what they should -- seal. Have placed about 4000 miles and 50 launches with hot bearings and no leaks. Gone are the days of milky oil and multiple changes/top ups each year.


Comments
1 yr update: Still holding oil in and water out. Good purchase
greg - 03/16/2020


by:

Great personal help. I ordered trailer bearings and seals on a 5th Wheel that was 17 years old. One beating had no # on it. Tammy worked with me until we finally got the correct one. Very helpful, knowledgeable, and professional.




by:

These seals worked well. Easy to install with no problems or leakage since installation.


Comments
They have given me good service up to this point. I installed them on a 1972 travel trailer that I refurbished. Now I am a Glamper.
Joe - 10/26/2018


by:

This is the second time I have ordered these seals. Have been very pleased with the previous ones. They do what they are supposed to do, keep grease from getting on the brake liners.
I have ordered several items from etrailer, hitches, bike rack and other items. Have been very pleased with the prices and promt shipping. etrailer will continue to be my go to place whenever I need trailer parts or tow vehicle parts.

Phil B




by:

Haven’t had to use them yet, bought as spares but they are high quality & just what we wanted to have for our trailer when the time came to use them.




by:

All the parts are items we keep on hand for maintenance of our two large trailers. etrailer has by far the best prices and with free shipping it does not pay us to source the parts locally.




by:

Working well.. Great customer support




by:

Your company sent me the wrongs grease seals. I called and wrote emails only to have what I considered a burden placed on me. Pray tell why I am required to obtain a caliper to measure the sizes if the seals your company sent me? before my return can be processed further? I offered to return the seals you all sent but was told the shipping cost more than the seals were worth, How is that my issue or problem? Throughout all of this you folks still haven't made it right by me. What hoops will I have to jump through to spur someone into thinking and acting on this properly? These are clearly not the RG06-090 seals. So here is a thought. How about sending me the right seals and covering the cost to make it right? I am very upset that I am forced to explain basic customer service and remedy to you folks. Not to mention that no one on our end has lead the charge to fix this after a whole business week.




by:

I am very happy with the etrailer team Prices are good as well as service, I have recommended your co. to several people in the Va,Nc area I can get product from you at a good price with good service and the free delivery is a plus also, I think your co. will continue grow with your current business plan. Can't loose with good service and a very competitive price. I just sold some of your parts to my neighbor and he had them delivered to my address 4 trailer wheels, Brakes for 4 wheels.




by:

Bought a used skid steer trailer that needed all new bearings and electric brakes. It was easy to find the correct bearing kit on etrailer and installation videos on the site made it a breeze for a DIY'er.




by:

I have not installed them yet, but they look great. They are grease seals, enough said.




by:

Seals are like bearings , they're as good as they do their job. These look excellent and with proper installation and a perfect mating surface, they should keep the grease where it belongs.

Fit and installed as they should.


Comments
These were installed in old hubs on new axles and with new bearings. The grease has stayed exactly where it belongs.
Chuck H - 01/28/2015

25
184
Show More Reviews

See what our Experts say about this TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps



  • Grease / Oil Seals 10-10 Double Lip Seals RG06-090 are the Same as National 470972
    Yes, the RG06-090 replaces the National 470972. On the product page we have a link to the cross-reference for the National part number.
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  • Grease Seals Needed for a Weekend Warrior Triple Axle Trailer with 6000 Pound Axles
    The best way to determine the correct grease seals for your triple axle trailer would be to take a few precise measurements. I recommend using a set of digital dial calipers to obtain these measurements. You will need to measure the grease seal portion of the spindle as well as the diameter of the hub to determine the correct grease seal for your triple axle trailer. I have included a diagram showing these measurement locations for you. I have included a video and a helpful article...
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  • Grease Seal # RG06-090 Replacement Recommendation for DL600 Seals
    The DL600 seals you referenced have the same dimensions as the TruRyde Seals # RG06-090 that you also referenced. The # RG06-090 should work very well for you, and are double-lip like you wanted.
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  • Grease Seal Recommendation for a Lowes Utility Trailer
    Based on the number you listed it would appear as if you need the grease seal part # RG06-090 as this is a 10-10 grease seal. But you need to measure your old seal to be certain. This seal has an inner diameter of 2.125 inches and an outer diameter of 3.376 inches. If you have different dimensions check out the link I attached to see all of the grease seals we carry. You will want to select your seals dimensions from the filters.
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  • Replacement Double-Lip Grease Seals to Replace AL-KO 568862 or Hayes 09103304L
    It took a bit of cross-referencing, but I found that the 10-10 grease seal, part # RG06-090 is the correct replacement for the Al-KO 568862 seals. You can confirm this by checking the ID of the hub bore where the seal would sit. The ID should be about 3.376 inches. The 10-10 seal has an ID of 2.125 and an OD of 3.376 inches.
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  • Replacement Grease Seal for P10495TB
    Yes, we do have the grease seal you're after. It's the 10-10 Grease or Oil Double-Lip Seals part # RG06-090.
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  • Replacement for TCM 21334 Grease Seals
    We carry the seals you are looking for, double lip seals # RG06-090. These seals have an inner diameter of 2.125", an outer diameter of 3.376" and is for use of E-Z Lube and Oil 5,200, 6,000 and 7,000 LB Axles. I've added a link to a review video of this product for you to take a look at.
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  • Replacement for Transcom 21334TC and 2133TB
    According to my research the Transcom part 21334TC is an oil seal with a 2.125" inner diameter and a 3.372" outer diameter and the Transcom part 2133TB is a grease seal with a 2.125" inner diameter and a 3.376" outer diameter. Generally speaking, a grease and oil seal cannot be replaced with one another. However, we do have one that can be used in both grease and oil, the 10-10 Grease or Oil Double-Lip Seal part # RG06-090. This should work as a replacement for both part 2133TB and part...
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  • Replacement Seals for AL-KO 1536852 Seals
    The seals that you would need to replace your AL-KO 1536852 seals are the TruRyde Grease / Oil Seals 10-10 (Pair) - Double Lip Seals # RG06-090. They have an inner diameter of 2.125", an outer diameter of 3.376", and are used for 5,200 lb - 7,000 lb axles. I have attached a review video that you can check out as well.
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  • Grease Seal Recommendation to Replace TCM 21334
    The Transcom # TCM 21344 TB cross references to the 10-10 seal we offer, part # RG06-090. The seal has a 2.125 inch ID and a 3.376 OD. It's compatible with a 25580 inner bearing.
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  • Double Lip Seal Recommendation for a Taiwan TCM 21333TB Seal Replacement
    The spring you are referencing is what makes a grease seal a double lip seal. The # 10-1 is a single lip seal, and the 10-10 part # RG06-090 is the double lip seal.
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  • Locating Replacement Hub/Drum for 1990 Shorelandr Boat Trailer w/ Agricultural Hubs
    Typically agricultural spindles are meant for low-speed applications, and not highway use so the axles they're used on wouldn't typically have brakes. This explains why you're having a hard time finding replacements. Boat trailer manufacturers are notorious for designing proprietary parts. The trailer manufacturer would be the best source for obtaining replacements. Replacing the spindles would seem like an easy solution, but getting spindles correctly welded into place is a highly specialized...
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  • Cross Reference of the TruRyde Grease Seal Part # RG06-090
    The Transcom part 21334TB is the same as our part # RG06-090 which is a double lip grease seal that has an inner diameter of 2.125" and a outer diameter of 3.376. It is designed to be used with 5,200, 6,000 and 7,000 lb axles. I would not be able to tell you which stores carry this seal but I can however provide you with the cross reference numbers from different manufacturers below: Dexter- part 010-010-00 National - part 470972 NOK - part AD8717EO Chicago Rawhide- part 21352 I have...
    view full answer...
  • Oil Lip Seal With 3.376 OD And 2.125 ID
    You said 3.376 x 2.125 od, but I believe you were referring to 3.376 inch outer diameter x 2.125 inch inner diameter. If so, we can indeed help and have the correct part for you with the following: - 10-10 Grease or Oil Double-Lip Seals # RG06-090 The # RG06-090 have those exact diameters, so they'll be exactly what you need.
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  • Replacement Grease Seal For AL-KO 568208
    We do indeed have the correct replacement grease seal for your 5,200 lb axle with the AL-KO 568208 grease seal; what you need is the following: - 10-10 Grease or Oil Double-Lip Seals # RG06-090
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  • What is the Right Grease Seal for Inner Trailer Hub Bearing L68149
    The seal associated with inner bearing # L68149 is # RG06-050. The inner diameter of this seal is 1.719 inches and the outer diameter is 2.565 inches. But it is designed for use with 3,500 pound axles. You will need to check the old seal measurements to see if they match up. Seals inner diameters can be hard to measure. You will want to use a set of digital calipers to get the most accurate measurement as possible.
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  • Trailer Brake Shoes and Replacement Seals for a 2004 Gulfstream Canyon Trail 5th Wheel Trailer
    First, for the seals, I think you will actually need # RG06-070. The inner diameter is 2.250 inches and the outer diameter is 3.376 inches. You would need to pull the hub off and get the inner and outer bearing numbers stamped into the bearings to be sure of what parts you will need. For brake shoes and lining part # BP04-150 will fit Dexter, Fayette, and Foreman 12 X 2 Electric Brakes. These brake assemblies do use a 5 bolt mounting pattern
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  • Recommended Grease Seal With 3.376 Outside Diameter for 2.24 inch Spindle
    For a spindle with a 2.24 inch diameter, we recommend a 2.25 inch grease seal, part # RG06-070. This is a double lip seal which helps keep the seal from blowing out. I believe the leakage you describe is likely caused by overfilling the hubs with grease. The best way to grease an EZ lube hub is to install the hub and inner bearing, but leave the outer bearing out. Use the zerk to fill the hub cavity until the hub is almost full, then pack the outer bearings by hand and put them in place,...
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  • What is the Difference Between the 10-10 Grease Seals and the 10-36 Grease Seals
    The difference between the 10-10 grease seals, # RG06-090, and the 10-36 grease seals, # RG06-070, is their inner diameter. The 10-10 grease seals fit older spindles with a seal journal (see photo) diameter of 2.125 inches. The 10-36 grease seals fit newer spindles with a seal journal of 2.250 inches. On 5,200 lb, 6,000 lb and 7,000 lb axles, manufacturers are no longer making spindles with a 2.125 inch seal journal, so they needed to come up with a seal that could fit the slightly larger...
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  • Cross Reference a Replacement for a TCM 21334 TB Grease Seal
    We sure can! The Transcom # TCM 21344 TB cross references to the 10-10 seal we offer, part # RG06-090. The seal has a 2.125 inch ID and a 3.376 OD. It's compatible with a 25580 inner bearing.
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  • Difference in TruRyde Grease Seal # RG06-090 and TruRyde Grease Seal # RG06-070
    When ordering seals, we recommend for you to get the part number that is stamped on the grease seal that you are replacing or the part numbers from the inner and outer bearings of the hub assembly, which will help you determine the correct grease seal you will need. The Dexter seal # 010-010-00, our TruRyde Grease Seal # RG06-090, has an inner diameter of 2.125 inches. The Dexter seal # 010-036-00, which is our TruRyde grease seal # RG06-070, has an inner diameter of 2.250 inches. These...
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  • Differences Between # RB06-070 and # RG06-090 Grease Seals
    The two grease seals share the same 3.376 outer diameter, but the # RG06-070 has a 2.25 inside diameter and the # RG06-090 has a 2.125 inside diameter. To determine which one you need, use a digital caliper to check the diameter of your spindle where the grease seal rides. The diagram I provided will show you where to measure. Either seal would be compatible with a 5200 lb axle.
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  • Correct Grease Seal Replacement for AL-KO 7,200 Lb Axle
    The AL-KO 7,200 Lb Axle most likely uses the 10-36 Grease Seal part # RG06-070 which is 2.250" I.D. and 3.376" O.D. or the 10-10 Grease Seal part # RG06-090 which is 2.125" I.D. and 3.376" O.D. Therefore, you will need to measure or cross reference the old part number.
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  • Grease Seal Recommendation for Trailer Hub with Bearing Numbers LM67048 and 25580
    There are two seal options available for a hub that has the two bearing numbers you mentioned LM67048 and 25580. If your spindle measures 2.125 inches where the seal rides you need the 10-10 # RG06-090. If instead you have an inner diameter of 2.25 inches you'd need the part # RG06-070.
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