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Installation of Wiring for a Leer Camper Shell on 2018 Honda Ridgeline


Dear sir I have recently purchased a new Honda 2018 Ridgeline truck and a Leer truck cap / camper shell from a local dealer. The dealer claimed experience with the new model Ridgeline and appeared to be creditable. Turned out not to be so as this was his first shot. Of question is his method for installing / connecting the cap interior lights and the third brake light. For this he was supposed to employ a dedicated interface harness designed for this purpose / Ridgeline, which turns out he did not have. Instead he used a 7-way generic interface harness designed for Ford and Toyota, installed in such a manner that the lights do function properly, and simply snipped off the unused wires. Shade tree mechanics at best. This installation might be difficult to service in the future and is simply not my way of properly installing components. Thus, I am looking to purchase the correct designed for interface harness for my Ridgeline and replace what has been previously installed. Your reply would be appreciated. Thank you


Expert Reply:

It sounds like the dealer messed with your factory wiring harness and you want to replace it with the T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with 7-Way Trailer Connector # 118288.

The correct way to run the wires is to connect the dome light to the 12V power wire either directly coming from your battery using a circuit breaker or splicing into your 12V wire at the 1 o'clock position at your bumper. If you want to run a specific wire, you will use # 16-1-1 sold by the foot and use circuit breaker # PK54220 in line.

Ideally you will want to splice into the third light wire on your truck to get the third brake light function on your cab. Some trucks have this as a separate wire under the dash, but I am unable to find a wiring diagram to help with that location. I recommend contacting a Honda dealer you trust to get that information if you choose not to splice into the current 3rd brake light wiring. You will want to use # 16-1-1 wire (sold by the foot) for that function as well.

You can use a circuit tester like # PTW2993 to test wires for function. The possible issue with splicing in the wrong location is the LED lights have far less power draw than incandescent bulbs, so the supplied power may already be limited.

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