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Converting a 1995 Jayco Eagle 12 UDK To Use Electric Trailer Brakes


First off, I want to say I’m a complete newbie to the pop up camper world. My wife and I purchased a 1995 Jayco Eagle 12 UDK pop up trailer which is new to us. I’m 2 weeks in and have been through multiple forums to find information. 12” box with two bunk slide outs. GVWR is 2460, Dry Weight is 1705. Tow Vehicle is a 2012 Toyota Tundra 5.7L V8 with tow package My question is related to switching over to electric brakes from surge brakes. Why? I popped the brake reservoir cap on the coupler Atwood and there was zero fluid and rust and crud in the reservoir. I’d rather not fill the reservoir with Dot 3 and hope for the best, knowing that most likely the whole system is rusted and won’t work properly. Here’s the current axle setup: - Dexter Torflex Single Axle shows the following stamp on the metal tag wrapped and riveted to the axle: 3B-0148044. I can’t locate any information on this axle online. - 10” Wheels with 4 Lug Bolts 20.5x10 Tires or 205/65-10. Purchased 3 new 205/65-10 D rated tires already from etrailer. - Current Drum / Hub Size: Unknown, as I have not pulled the wheels / hubs yet. I’m highly aware that I’ll need to inspect races / bearings and most likely buy replacements and pack them as the previous owner did zero maintenance. Hitch is setup for a 2” Ball. I noticed a bolt on the side of the coupler for reverse lock out of the actuator to prevent it from applying the brakes while backing up the trailer. My first thought is to just permanently lock out the actuator with a bolt, abandon the surge brakes completely, remove the lines, and switch over to electric. Plan is to do it myself. I’m hoping etrailer has a kit that will work with my current axle setup, where I can install new hubs, brakes, wires, 7 pin conector, and my TV already has the brake controller. If I did make the switch to electric, would I remove the original brake master cylinder in the coupler, leave the actuator in place, permanently lock out the actuator, remove all brake lines and then proceed with the electric brake rebuild? I do not want to replace the coupler or weld a new one on. I should be able to permanently lock out the actuator by putting a bolt through it to keep it in reverse lock out position to prevent the clunk of the actuator for the old surge brakes. I just dont know what to order from etrailer or what other information you need from me to determine the best parts to make the switch to electric brakes without having to install a new axle.


Helpful Expert Reply:

First you will need the Electric Trailer Brake Kit # 23-47-48 to replace your hydraulic assemblies. We have the Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # 8-173-16UC3 to get you a 4 on 4 mounting pattern. You will need to disassemble one of your hubs to verify it will fit the new hub as your axle is produced before they maintained records for their axles. This hub uses inner and outer Bearing # L44649 which is 1.063" inner diameter.

For the wiring you will go from the Hopkins 7-Way RV Style Connector # H20046 to the Junction Box # 3430001-JBK and also need a Bright Way Push-to-Test Trailer Breakaway Kit # 3802346 unless you have an onboard battery you want to connect a Breakaway Switch # FA80-00-2060 to. Then you will need Wire # 12-1-1 sold per foot to run to the brake assemblies from the junction box.

I know you mentioned wanting to keep your coupler and lock it out but it is recommended to change the Coupler # DM14793-81. Since the surge coupler is designed to move you could run into issues later down the road if one of the moving parts were to fail.

As you already have a Brake Controller # 90195 and 7-way no other pares are needed for your tow vehicle.

helpful expert reply by:
Gregory M

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