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Fifth Wheel Installation - 2011 Chevrolet Silverado 3500

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How to Install a Fifth Wheel on a 2011 Chevrolet Silverado 3500

Today on this 2011 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 series long bed, we will be installing Reese custom base, rails, and brackets part number RP50066-58. Before we get started we want to lower the spare tire, and bring it down out of our way so we have more working room. With that removed we want to go into the bed and measure out and mark the rear rail. The measurements are provided in the installation instructions are going to be from the end of the bed, to the rear edge of the rear rail. We also want to take and make sure the rear rail is centered in between the wheel wells. :36

Once you have ensured that the rear rail meets the dimensions listed in the instructions, we want to go ahead and mark out the holes that are going to need to be drilled. On the rear rail we are going to be marking the second set of holes from the end on both sides. With those marked, we can move the rail out of the way and start drilling our holes. We are going to start by drilling an 1/8 inch pilot hole. We will check to make sure the holes are going to match up with our frame brackets. Then we will come back through and enlarge to 9/16ths inch. 1:04

Looking underneath here at the drivers side, you can see with the frame bracket held up that it matches the existing holes in the frame and the holes we just drilled in the bed match up perfect. You want to check that on both your driver and passenger side. Once that is confirmed, go ahead and enlarge it to 9/16ths. With the holes enlarged you can go ahead and put the rails back in place and our 1/2 inch hardware through the holes. Now we can go underneath the bed and attach our frame brackets to the frame. We are going to fasten the bracket to the bed bolts using the conical tooth washer, the flat washer, and hex nut. We need to place the provided spacers at each of the rear bolts in between the frame bracket and the bed. This is going to take up the space from the bed corrugation so we do not crush the bed when we tighten the bolts down. With the spacers in we can finish tightening up the bolts. We will now go back to the frame bracket and fish the hardware through the holes from the frame. To do that we are going to be using the 5/8ths bolt leader. Take and feed it through the attaching hole and back out the access hole in the inside of the frame. Then take the 5/8ths block and 5/8ths carriage bolt and feed it onto the bolt leader. Go ahead and take the bolt leader and put it through the hole in the block, then take the threads of the bolt leader and wrap them around the threads of the bolt. Then feed those inside the frame and go back to the bolt leader and pull them into place. 2:44

We will attach that by using the 5/8ths serrated washer and hex nut. We want to do the same thing in the rear bolt hole in the bracket, as well as doing the passenger side bracket. We also need to mark out one of the center holes as well. For the rear rail, we are going to be marking out the front center hole. At this time we can put the hardware on the center bolt as well. We will use the conical tooth washer, the flat washer, and hex nut. When we go to set the front rail, we are going to put our assembly into the rails, that is going to set our spacing for us. You want to check that it is easy to move your assembly in and out. Put the assembly back in and check that the front rail is centered from side to side. Make sure you have some play, both front and back on both rails. Once you have ensured the rails are centered up, mark your holes again. On the front rail we are going to be marking the outermost holes to drill. As well as the center bolt. Again, we are going to be marking the forward most center bolt. With those marked we can pull the head assembly out and remove the front rail. Then we will drill out, just like we did on the rear rail. You want to be careful while drilling, especially on the driver front rail because you are over the gas tank and could penatrate it if you drill too far through the bed. When putting the hardware in, you can see that the holes align on the downward section of the bed corrugation. So we will be putting the spacers on top of the bed instead of below. Between the bed rail and the bed itself. 4:58

With the hardware dropped through, we can put our head assembly back onto the rails. Now we will go underneath the bed and start tightening our bolts down. What we are going to do is take and hand tighten each one of the bolts up first, then we will go back through and torque each one of them down to their specified torque rating. When torquing down the bolts on the driver side of the vehicle, you may have problems because you are having interference problems with the heat shield. You can take down the heat shield, or you can take the edge of it and bend it out of the way until you get the bolt tightened down and you can bend it back. Now I am going to go through and torque the bolts down. You want to verify with the instructions the specific torque rating for each individual bolt. When torquing, we are going to torque the frame bolts first and then the bed rail bolts. That will conclude the installation of Reese custom base plates and brackets, part number RP50066-58 on this 2011 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 series long bed .

Info for this part was:

Employee Zack K
Video Edited:
Zack K
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B
Employee Brent H
Test Fit:
Brent H
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Michael B
Video by:
Michael B
Employee Jacob H
Video by:
Jacob H

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