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Review of Pacer Performance Vehicle Lights - Roof Lamp - PP20-231

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Pacer Performance Vehicle Lights - Roof Lamp - PP20-231 Review


Ellen: Hey everyone. I'm Ellen here at etrailer.com today we're taking a look at the Pacer performance hi-five LED truck cab light kit. Now this is going to give us that big rig look on the top of our truck and help also to give us a little bit more visibility or at least give other drivers a little bit better heads up when we're coming down the road, especially in inclement weather. Maybe it's pretty foggy outside going through some heavy rain, snow, whatever the case might be. So it gives our truck that better visibility as we're coming down the highway.Now this is styled after the 1994 through 1998 Dodge factory roof lights, so it should be a match for those. Of course, if you want to add it on any vehicle you can.

The only thing that I would say is that you do have to do some drilling to get this installed, so that's one thing to keep in mind. To get the mounting hardware in there, you do need to drill some holes. So you'll have two holes at least per light for those mounting holes on the top there, or on the on either side. So it's going to give you a total of 10 holes to drill into your cab and through the roof line. And you might also want to drill a third hole to allow your wiring to go through.

So if that's the deal breaker for you, just letting you know that right up front that you do have to make some modifications to your truck to get them installed.But we're to get everything that you see laid on the table here. So we'll get our light housings, the wiring sockets are LED bulbs. We also get our incandescent bulbs as well, just kind of as a freebie. So you can use these in a pinch. They are a 194 style bulb, so a lot of different things use these including interior lights and other things.

So not a bad thing to keep on hand, but you don't really need them for this kit.We also get our wiring bundle. So this is going to have our fuse and our wiring to get things hooked up to our battery. So it's going to have two lengths. One is going to be a shorter length with that fuse already installed in line. It has a little spade connector.

That's going to go to the back of our switch there. The other length of wire is a bit longer. It also has a little spade terminal, so that's going to go to the other side of our switch to provide our power. So this fuse side will run to our battery, hook it up. This other side is going to go to our lights.You might also want to get some extra wire to do this install. This length of wire is a pretty good amount. I think it's about four or five feet, but never a bad idea to have some extra wire, especially if you're running this all the way up to your engine compartment. I doubt that this is going to get you all the way, but depending on how you route it, if you do route it along the A-pillar, you might get there. But just in my experience, you can never go wrong by having a little wire.It also comes with the hardware to get each of our lights installed, the hardware for the switch and some grommets to make sure that we don't have any leaks coming underneath the heads of those screws. You can also grab some silicone sealant just to make sure that everything is really sealed up tight. If it we're me I would do it just to make sure that there are no water getting into my truck. I don't have to deal with that any to anytime soon. Silicone gasket maker, we also have here at etrailer.com if you want.And the third thing that I would suggest picking up would be to replace these guys. These are quick slice connectors, they work in a pinch, they do make your connection, but as far as longevity, these just don't cut it. A lot of times things that we have come back into the shop, it's because somebody installed it with these quick splice connectors. They'll pop open, make the connection go bad. They could fall off. Because if you think of it, your truck is going down the road, you're hitting bumps just encountering vibrations. Even if you're not hitting anything in particular, just by the truck is moving. And these can just come apart and they just don't hold up as well.So I would suggest replacing these, at least with insulated butt connectors, or if you want to go an extra step, get heat shrink butt connectors. They operate in the same way. They just are going to go around your wiring connection and help everything to stay together a little bit better. Typically we'll install a little bit flatter than these so they're easy to tuck up in a way. Heat shrinks provide a watertight connection. So if it we're me, that's what I would do. So I just want to let you know that.As far as how to get our light installed, I'll show you what it looks like. Pop our little LED guy into the socket there. Just have to kind of coax it in place and push it down in there. And then grab one of our lighting, it does have a little gasket, which is just made out of foam. So if you cinch it down tight enough, it should seal up that hole. But I'd just be worried and I'd want to use some silicone sealant, so that's why I suggested it. Don't have to do it, it's just what I would do.So once we get our socket in there, you just give it a little quarter of a turn and then it's held in place. I'm going to connect my ground and then my power. And so you can see that it's turning on there. It's not too terribly bright. You're not trying to blind anybody with these guys. They're not providing light, they're just making you more visible as you're out on the road. So they're not really designed to be super, super bright, just enough to give you that light. I'm going to turn the light out in the studio and that way you can get a better idea of what it looks like in the dark. I know it's just that one little pinprick of light, but it might help you to visualize it a little bit better. So each of them will look like that. Turn lights back on.And now that we've seen what it looks like, we talked about the install. Let's talk about how big these guys are. Take my socket out. Set that to the side. So each of our lights are going to be the same size, front to back about three and 13/16th long, or about just over three and three quarter inches with the widest point there. It's about three and then 16th, so just over three inches long. Height-wise we're looking at about one and a half inches. Again, that's going to be the same for all of them.The switch is nice, because that means we can bypass our lighting system. We don't have to cut into our factory wiring or anything like that. As far as the measurements there, it's about one and three quarter inches tall by about one and three eights. And it's kind of at an angle, but it's about seven-eights of an inch deep.So you can run this off of its own switch. You don't have to worry about getting into any of your factory lights, as I mentioned. Of course, if you want to tie this into your running lights on your truck, you can. It's up to you. Just know that if you do that, sometimes manufacturers might say that it's going to void your warranty, so just a caveat there.That's pretty much going to do it for our look at the Pacer performance, Hi-five LED truck cab light. I hope this video has been helpful in deciding whether or not you want to get this kit. Of course, if you want to find any of those accessories that I mentioned earlier, you can find those right here at etrailer.com along with a lot of other things to solve your issues so that you can get back to enjoying your venture out on the road. Thanks for watching.


Info for this part was:

Employee Kathleen M
Installed by:
Kathleen M

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