Best 2021 Jeep Gladiator Flat Tow Setup - Base Plates

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Best 2021 Jeep Gladiator Flat Tow Setup - Base Plates

Hi there Jeep owners. Today, we're going to be taking a look at the best flat tow options for your 2021 Jeep Gladiator. There's five main components you'll need when flat towing your vehicle behind your motor home. You'll need your tow bar, which is the connection between the motor home and the vehicle. You'll need your base plate, which is the connection point on the vehicle that you'll attach your tow bar to. You'll need your safety cables, which is a supplemental connection in addition to the tow bar.

You also need your diode wiring, which will take all the lighting signals from your motor home and transfer them to the lights at the back of the vehicle, so they know your intentions when going down the road. And lastly you'll need your supplemental braking system, which will apply the brakes in the vehicle that you're pulling, so you can come to a safe stop.The tow bar we're using today. Our customer is reusing from his previous flat tow setup, and that's the Roadmaster Blackhawk 2 all-terrain. And this is a great tow bar, you can see it's definitely had some use to it, but it's still functioning great today. This one is a bit of an overkill for our Jeep, as this is rated for 10,000 pounds, and we can get away with 6,000 pounds on our Gladiator.

That's right there pushing it, but 6,000 pounds will be just fine with this. So I would recommend, instead of the Blackhawk, maybe the Falcon all-terrain. That's going to have all the same features here as our Blackhawk, but it's not rated as high, so it might help save you a little bit of money.But some of the features that I like about those, that they will share is they'll have channels that run down the side that will allow your safety cables, as well as your electrical cables to pass through that keeps them up off the ground, protecting your cables, and it also just gives it a nicer, cleaner look. And when you're going to store your tow bar on the back of your motor home, like many people do, it keeps everything altogether, so you just don't have a mess. It just really helps storage out a lot.Another reason why I recommend this tow bar is because it is a non-binding tow bar.

The lever here will release the arm once it's extended and in its locked position. And what that will do by releasing the arms, it just gives you a little bit of play here at the end, because if you have your arm locked out and your vehicle's may be on a little bit of uneven terrain, it can be really difficult to get these pins out if it's in a bind. Just that little pop and a little bit of play makes all the difference in removing the tow bar.For our base plate, we're using Roadmaster's direct connect base plate, and this would be my top pick. As far as installation, I've found that the Roadmaster one here is one of the easiest to install. By no means does that mean this is a quick installation, but it's actually fairly easy here on your Jeep to get this one installed.

I also really like the way this one looks. I like the gloss black finish and where it passes through. It's not too intimidating as far as how much it sticks out, but it gives a nice aggressive look at the front of our Jeep. I like that it also comes with a bracket for your electrical connectors, as well as your breakaway switch, because some of the other competitors don't come with those, and it can be a task sometimes to find a good spot to put those.So other components you'll need is safety cables as they don't come included, but you can get those here at etrailer. With your Jeep here, I would recommend 6,000 pound cables at least, and a good starting point for a length measurement is about 68 inches. That'll make sure you've got enough length and should usually, in most cases, give you just a little bit extra length in case you need a high-low adapter. The safety cables are available in either a straight or coiled option. If you're going to go with our top pick tow bar here, I would get the straight ones so they can pass through the channels.You'll also need tow bar lighting. This is going to take all the signals from your motor home and transfer them to the lights at the back of your vehicle, so people will know your intentions when going down the road. We're using Roadmaster's diode wiring kit, and that would be my top pick. It's an easy kit to install. The diodes are pretty heavy duty. The outer shell on them is designed like a heat sink as well to help dissipate heat. So they're going to last a nice long time. You don't have to worry about them burning out, even if you've got your lights on, maybe you're sitting on the side of the road with your flashers on for a long time, putting a lot of current through those. We don't have to worry about them overheating.And I like that the kits available in several different options, so you can match it up with your tow bar and the rest of your flat tow components to help save you some money and time on figuring out where you're going to buy all these parts. You can get them with your electrical connector in the front. The most common is a six pole connector, but you can get it at a four, round or flat. I highly recommend the six round, and then you can get it in a coiled, straight or a hybrid coiled or straight option, so you can get the one that's best to match up with your tow bar, if you've got those channels or not.There are some other options out there. There are diodes from other manufacturers, such as Blue Ox, and those are great as well. And then the other options for lighting here at the back are a bulb and socket kit, which would require you to install a bulb inside the tail light assembly, drilling a hole into it. With many of your modern systems that have LED lights, there's just not room inside for that bulb. And the other option is magnetic lights, where you can stick them on. And the thing that I don't like about the magnetic lights, you have to set them up every single time. They're quicker to set up than installing this, but once you install your diode wiring on your vehicle, it's done. You just plug it in, and it's so much faster every time after the initial installation.And lastly, for our braking system, our customers reusing their old Stay-in-Play duo unit, which is actually my topic, the Stay-in-Play DUO. And it really just shows to attest on how good it is that they we're flat towing with it for years, you can see it's got a little bit of dirt and buildup on it from its previous years in service, and they're easily able to move it over to another one here. A re-installation kit's available here at etrailer. It's going to save you a lot of money because you don't have to buy all the expensive, main braking system components, just the little components you need to get it wired up and hooked back up to your new vehicle.The Stay-in-Play is going to be my top pick if your motor home has hydraulic brakes, which our customer does here, it's why he's got Stay-in-Play. If your motor home has air brakes, rather than using the Stay-in-Play, I would recommend Demco's Air Force One, because that's specifically for air brakes. And it will give you the same performance as the Stay-in_Play does on hydraulic brakes, but it's designed properly for your air brakes on your motor home. We have re-installation kits available for the Air Force One as well, so if you're moving that over, you can move that over as well.And that about does it for our look at the best flat tow components for our Jeep Gladiator. I hope this helps you and informs you to make the best decisions for you at home.

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