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SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO Braking System Installation - 2014 Ford Edge

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How to Install the SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO Braking System on a 2014 Ford Edge


Today on our 2014 Ford Edge, were going to be installing the SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO Supplemental Breaking System in a proportional design, part number SM99251. Lets show you how the system works as it pulls the pedal in. Now, weve gone ahead and turned on the G-Force controller box. Well go ahead and pull out the breakaway pin. Now, were going to go ahead and begin our installation by first raising up the hood. Now with our hood open, were going to need to remove several fasteners here across the top as well as in other locations on the front fascia in order to remove it.Well need to remove these two bolts, one here and here, as well as four push fasteners that go across the top.

Theres one here, here, here, and the fourth one is over here. Now in order to remove these, youll unscrew the center section choosing a Philips head screwdriver. Once the center section is pulled up, we can take either a trim panel removal tool or another flathead screwdriver and slide it up underneath. The fastener looks something like that. Go ahead and repeat that same process for the other three fasteners.

Now for these two bolts, well be using a 10-millimeter socket.Next, were going to go ahead and move into the wheel well. Well need to do this on both the driver and the passenger side. Well go ahead and show you the driver side. Were going to need to remove three bolts. Theres one here, here, and up here.

Now to remove these bolts, youre going to need a 5.5-millimeter socket. Thats the correct size for these bolts. Go ahead and remove the other two. Now that weve got the driver side removed, well go ahead and repeat the same process over on the passenger side.Now, weve gone ahead and come underneath the vehicle. Were going to need to remove couple more screws down here on each side as well, one here and one here.

This will be the same for both the passenger and the driver side. Again, were just using a 5.5-millimeter socket. Go ahead and repeat that same process over on the driver side. Next, were going to need to remove a total of three push fasteners located underneath here. Fasteners are located here, here, and the third one is right here.To remove these, well simply take a flathead screwdriver, slide it underneath the center portion of the fastener. Then, you can either use another flathead screwdriver or a trim panel removal tool to pull the center part down. Go ahead and repeat the same process for the other two locations. Now that we have all of the hardware removed securing the fascia to the vehicle, were going to need to go into each wheel well where well gently pull out and up, unlocking the fascia from the fender here. Well need to do this to both sides. Now with our fascia loose on both sides, go ahead and lift it up, and set it up and out of the way.Now, youll notice that theres fog lights connected down here. Youll need to push in on the locking tab and gently pull outward. Youll need to do this to both sides. We can go ahead and show you what this little jumper is for, so your wiring will be hooked securely at the front of your vehicle. Youll then take the jumper that comes with the kit. The one half will line up and plug in. Youll then take the other half and plug it into the four-flat at the rear of your motorhome. Next, were going to need to choose a location to mount our vacuum assist box here for the Stay-IN-Play DUO.Now, in this general area right here, you use this metal support that comes over. I can go ahead and attach the box to that, and it does give you enough clearance behind the front fascia. Now, you may need to test fit it a time or two just by attaching it temporarily, and then test fit the front fascia back on to make sure that youre going to clear everywhere. Nothing is going to rub or hit. Now, right in this area here is a good spot. Now that we have our holes drilled out, youre going to need to supply your own hardware to attach the box to whichever mounting location you choose. In this case, were just using a couple screws, flat washer and a locking-style nut. That way, it stays in plays.Go ahead and put that in. Well need to then reach up behind. Im going to go ahead and attach our box just using a self-tapping screw. Now while we have the box secured to the metal piece with the bolt and the nut, were going to go ahead and add a couple self-tapping screws in there as well just for a little added security to make sure theres no chance it can come loose over time. Next, were going to need to go ahead and route some of our wires and tubing up into the engine compartment, so that we can do a test fit on our front fascia and choose a location to mount our breakaway switch while were up here.Go ahead and pull our vacuum line up into the engine compartment. Now, weve gone ahead and temporarily set the front fascia back in place. Now, were going to go ahead and take our paint marker. Were going to go in through center piece here. Were going to put a mark on the metal structure behind it. That way, we know where we need to drill. Were also going to mark here and here as well need to cut that section of the grill out as well to allow the breakaway switch to fit in there properly. Now with our marks made, we can go ahead and remove the front fascia again.I will go ahead and take our drill bit. Well need to drill a hole here in the metal structure. Now that we have our hole drilled, were going to go ahead and change our breakaway switch a little bit. Were going to put a small relief cut right here, so that we can twist the bracket just a little bit to bring it back level. That way, it will look a little bit nicer as it goes through our grill. Well line up our hole. Just take our marker and put a mark where were going to make our cut, so well cut over about that far. Now when you make your cut, youre going to want to hold the bracket, so that you dont bend the breakaway switch here that you dont twist this on the bracket as it just riveted to it, and you can break the rivet if youre not careful.Now, weve got our relief cut. Weve got our bracket bent. Itd be something like that. We may need to adjust that a little bit once we get it secure, and we also put the fascia back on. Now, were ready to go ahead and attach our breakaway switch. Well take our bolt and our flat washer. Go through the bracket, then well install the nut on the bottom side. Now that we have our breakaway switch mounted, were going to go ahead and pull the pin for now. Now, well go ahead and need to trim out our front fascia before we do our test fit. To do that, were just going to use a rotary tool with a cutoff bit.Now that weve done our quick test fit, we see were going to have to trim out a little more, so were going to go ahead and remove here as well as take out this small section. Well do that on both sides to give it a uniform look. Go ahead and remove our fascia and trim out the rest. Now, you can see here. Now that weve trimmed out our grill a little more, our breakaway switch will fit through just fine. Now, well go ahead and take our fascia back off and make all of our connections before reinstalling the fascia for one final time permanently.Next, were ready to make some of our electrical connections. Before we do that though, we want to go ahead and tape off our wires as were going to pull all four of the wires coming off of the vacuum assist box as well as the two wires coming off of the breakaway switch up into the engine compartment area. Well go ahead and take some electrical tape, and wrap the wires up to protect them. Next, well go ahead and route our wires up into the engine compartment area. Next, were going to go ahead and take our air line tubing that comes with the kit. Were going to need to connect one end right here to this port on the vacuum assist box.This line will then be routed into the cab of the vehicle near the brake pedal where the brake cylinder will be mounted to the pedal, so well go ahead and take the one end. Im going to make sure its got a good straight clean cut on it. Well put it into the fitting. Push in, and then pull back, making sure that its locked into position. We can then go ahead and route the tubing up into the engine compartment as well. Now that we have our lines and our tubing ran, well go ahead and use a few zip ties to help secure it. Make sure everything stay in place where we want it.Now that we have our wires secure, we can go ahead and trim off any excess zip tie. Next, were ready to go ahead and reinstall the front fascia on the vehicle because were done with everything underneath here. We have our tubing connected. We have all of our wires routed into the engine compartment. Our breakaway switch is mounted. Now, we have our fascia back up into position. We have our breakaway switch through. Ive gone ahead and pulled through the wiring that was from our previous install to make sure its through. Now, we can go ahead and reattach the fascia with the fasteners that we removed earlier. Now, you want to make sure that before you put all the fasteners back in that you plug back in the fog lights on each side.Heres the G-Force controller toolbox. Now, this box needs to be mounted in this orientation with the switch facing the rear, the writing on it facing towards the passenger side, and the wires coming out the front for the box to work properly. Now, up underneath the foot well on the driver side, theres just not enough room, and theres also a weird contour underneath as well as the fuse panel, so its not going to allow us to mount our box up there. In between the seats here between the front and the rear seat is a perfect place to mount this.Now, its a good idea to go ahead and scoot the seat all the way back, so you can find out how far back the box can be mounted or how far forward we can mount the box without it interfering with the seat movement. Were going to choose a location right in there to mount our box. This will allow us access for adjustments as well as turning it on and off, but yet its far enough forward that the person climbing into the rear passenger area will not hit the box or interfere with it. Now, youll notice that theres five wires coming out of the box.Now on our particular install, the trailer wiring or the tow wiring I should say is actually right behind the passenger seat that we can tie in with as far as the green and the yellow wires. Theres also a good ground back there that we can tie in with the white wire. Thats the ground, and the yellow and green will tie in with the four-flat wiring that runs the tow wiring. The black and red wiring will be routed up through the firewall or up underneath the dash and will be connecting with the black and red wire that come off the vacuum assist box that we mounted behind the front fascia.Well need to separate the wires and make them go in their correct direction or proper direction before we secure the box, so go ahead and push the black and red wire forward. We can then take our other three wires and bring them towards the rear. Were going to then use the two screws that come with the kit. Now that we have one screw secured, well go ahead and scoot the seat forward, so we can get the box level, and well add the second screw. Now that we have the box secure, we can go ahead and route our wiring. To do that, were simply going to tuck it underneath the edge of the threshold as well as the interior panels here to hide it and keep it out of the way.Next, were going to need to raise up the rear covering here of the spare tire. Go ahead and remove this rear hatch piece. Well need to remove the rear threshold because the wiring for the four-flat trailer wiring is underneath this piece right here is where it goes out. Well go ahead and pull up on the center threshold, releasing it. Then, remove the tray. This wiring right here is what runs up to the front. Thats the four-flat wiring you see sticking out the front. It also runs back here, and theres a ground up underneath.Now, weve gone ahead and taken an old piece of air line tubing to help us pull our wires through there. Were just going to use it as a pull wire. Go ahead and take a little bit of electrical tape and tape the wires to it, and then we can go ahead and pull it back through. Well then be adding our wires in. Well take the white wire and add it in with the white wire which is the ground. The yellow to the yellow wire, and the green to the green. Next, were going to go ahead and split the four-flat wiring apart. Well do that by just taking our razor blade, simply splitting wires apart.Now to make our connections, were just going to use some of the quick-splice connectors that come with the kit. Well go ahead and repeat this same process for both the yellow and the white wire. Once we have all of our connections made, we can go ahead and wrap them up with a little bit of electrical tape to help protect them. Now that we have all of our wires secure, we can go ahead and reinstall our rear interior here. Were going to need to remove the battery here. This will give us some more working room to get into the where the brake booster is to tie into the vacuum line as well as get to the rubber grommet thats back in along the firewall.Were going to need to route some wires and tubing into the passenger compartment of the vehicle as well as make a connection back near the brake booster. To remove the battery, well remove the negative side and the positive side as well as any tie-down brackets that may be holding it in place. Theres one tie-down located right here on the outside of the battery. To remove that, well be using an 8-millimeter socket. It also looks like well need to loosen up the cover here on the air filter and work that to the side, so we can slip the battery out. To do that, well just remove the two tabs that hold it in place.Large rubber grommet with wires going through it, thats the grommet that well be using to pull our wires through. Next, were going to need to hook up some of our wires that are staying out here underneath the hood. Now, these two larger black wires come off of the breakaway switch and these other four wires come off of the vacuum assist box. Now, the red and black will be routed into the cab of vehicle, and the brown and blue will be tied in with the breakaway switch wires as well as the brown wire will have a lead that runs over to the positive side of the battery.Were going to begin by connecting one of the two black wires with the blue wire. Now, it doesnt matter on which wire you connect with which on the breakaway switch. Were going to leave our self a little bit extra and all of our wires can just be tucked down in there when were done. Go ahead and snip both ends. Strip a little bit of wire back from both sides. Well then take one of the supplied blue butt connectors to make our connection. Then, our other black wire coming off the breakaway switch and brown wire will be connected together.Now, when the brown wire continues on, we need to tile in over to the positive side of the battery. I will want to add in the fuse holder in line, so that the wire is fused. Now, theres a couple ways you can do it. It comes with this three-way connector, so you connect the black to one side, youll cut the brown, put that to one side, and take the remaining wire to the other side, or you can just connect directly with there. Now, instead of using this three-way connector, you can just get a little bit larger butt connector and just double up the wires on one side, allowing you to just use a single butt connector versus this three-way crimp connector here.Now, since we know were going to have to get up to the battery, were going to go ahead and cut this one a little bit longer in lead. That way, we have plenty of length to make it up to the positive side of the battery. Well go ahead and trim our brown wire to link with the black. Go ahead and strip both sides back. Well then need to take our ring terminal. Cut the loop on it. Strip back a little bit of wire from both sides. Well go ahead and take the one end for our fuse holder, add it in here to our butt connector. Crimp it down. Then, go ahead and take one of the ring terminals that comes with the kit. Add that on to the other end. Now, we can go ahead and tape up any of our butt connector connection points.Next, were going to need to go ahead and route our air line tubing piece as well as the black and red wire up to the grommet here. Now, weve gone ahead and gone from the inside of the vehicle. Weve just taken a razor blade and cut a slit in the rubber grommet. This will allow us to push the air line tubing as well as the two wires into position. Now that we have the slit cut in the grommet, we can go ahead and feed our air line tubing into the cab as well as the red and black wire. Next, were going to need to come here on the driver side door area. Were going to need to route the red and black wire that comes from that box that we mounted in between the driver side door and the passenger side rear door.We need to finish tucking these wires up underneath the threshold piece here, so we can connect this black and red wire with the black and red wire that we just routed from inside the engine compartment. Heres the black and red wire that we routed in through the grommet. Well just need to connect these two wire together, black to black, red to red, using the supplied blue butt connectors that come with the kit. Now that we have our wires routed up into position, were going to go ahead and strip a little bit of wire back from all four, and then well connect to colors to colors. Well connect the red wire to the red wire and black wire to the black wire using the supplied blue butt connectors.Once we have our connections made, well go ahead and tape them up with a little bit of electrical tape to give them a little more protection. Now that we have our connections made, we can go ahead and use a zip tie to secure up any loose or extra wiring. Next, were going to need to tie in with our vacuum lines. Now on this vehicle, theres actually two vacuum lines that come off the brake booster. As soon as the line comes off the booster, it splits into two different directions. One of the lines is this rubber hose right up here. It comes around and goes over to here. The other line is a hard plastic line thats on the other side right here of the intake, just past the mass airflow.Now this line here, were just going to cut it, and were going to add in a check valve. Were not going to put our T-fitting in there. To do that, were going to use a little bit of the hose thats connected to the box itself. Were going to cut off about 4 inches total. Go ahead and cut the same amount. Now in this case, the kit comes with only one of these check valves. Now, you will need to get an additional check valve that looks like this in order to put a check valve in the other vacuum line. You want to make sure that the black side is towards the motor and the clear green, as they refer to it, is towards the booster.Were going to take our two-pieces of hose that we cut off of the box here. Go ahead and add one to each side of the check valve. Were actually going to then trim out a section of this rigid hose and slide this check valve in line. Now when we do that, were going to want to use the hose clamps that come with the kit. Just want to make sure that you dont over-tighten them and crush the hose. Go ahead and take our cutters. Go ahead and cut the line. Were going to need to go ahead and trim out a small section of our rigid vacuum line to compensate for where the check valve itself is.Now to make things slide on a little easier, you can put some soapy water solution or like a silicone spray on the inside of the hose to help things slide on a little easier. Weve also gone ahead and slit our hose clamps in place and just snug them down enough, so that they stay on the hose. Well be sliding them back over the top of the rigid line once we get it in place. Well push that down. Go ahead and scoot the hose clamp back, and then tighten everything down. Go ahead and repeat this over here on the other half.Next, were going to need to cut this line here. Now, because this is a larger line, were going to need to do a couple additional steps. Youll notice that we have these adapters here, so theyre for the larger size hose back down to the 3/8. This will go in on the engine side, then our check valve will be emplaced here. Then, well need to put our T-fitting, and then our additional adaptor. The T-fitting will be in between the engine and the brake booster. Again, making sure that the black side of the check valve faces towards the engine.Were just going to use another small section of the 3/8 hose coming off of the box that we mounted in the front of the car to make these little connections here. Well just cut a small piece of the tubing off and cut the tubing up to put the fittings together. Now, because we dont really have enough room to put all of these together in here like this, it will be too long, were going to actually use the loop method where well cut one end and put one end in, then well put a loop of 3/8-inch hose around to tie into the other side. That way, we dont have to cut very much of this line out right here.Well go ahead and reach in. Well snip the line here. Well put our fitting in. Well then put a piece of 3/8-inch hose that comes around and connects back into here. Now, were going to go ahead and pull our line out. Were actually going to put it in right here. That way, weve got a little more wiggle room with it to where we can move things around. Go ahead and get in here, and cut our line. Well go ahead and take our end. With the check valve, go ahead and put it into this end.Now to make things easier as well as depending on how exactly you route your lines or where you mounted the box if you chose like a different location, you may need some additional 3/8-inch of vacuum hose to make your connections here because were actually going to make a loop. Depending on where you mounted the box exactly and how you routed your lines, you may need a few additional feet. Were actually going to need about two additional feet total of 3/8 vacuum line. This can be purchased at your local auto parts store, and thats all youll need. Its just a standard 3/8-inch vacuum hose.Weve added our piece of 3/8-inch extra hose. Im going to go ahead and bring up Connect that back in with the larger vacuum hose. Weve got this extra piece of hose here. Im just going to wrap it around, making sure that we dont put any kinks or bends in it. Well go ahead and put our T-fitting. Now that we have our piece cut down, we can go ahead and slide our T-fitting in. Well then need to take another piece of tubing to go from this side, and wrap it around, and connect in with our check valve. Well then put our line coming off the vacuum assist box up to right there.Weve gone ahead and added another piece of the tubing. Go ahead and connect the other end up like that. Once we have all of our connections made, the only thing thats left is to put this hose here on. Now, knowing that were going to have to put the battery back in, we might go I think Im going to go ahead and put the battery back in first as well as hook everything else up, and then Ill route my line the rest of the way. Now with our battery back in place, we can go ahead and put the bracket in. It secures it.Now, before we make our connections here at the battery, I want to make sure that the fuse is not in the fuse holder currently, and well be connecting our ring terminal in right here. Now to let it slide around that, Im just going to cut out the center of the ring terminal. That way, it just slips underneath there. Now with our battery hooked back up, our power hooked up here for the controller, the fuse is out for now. Were going to need to route our rest of our 3/8 hose up and make a connection here with our vacuum line. Now, Ive gone ahead made my connection.Ive put a zip tie to make sure that this hose here is not rubbing on the battery negative terminal hardware, and Ive also left this line long, and Ive just coiled it up underneath here. Now, why I did that is you need enough slack. One, you need to be able to change your air filter over time; and two, when its time to change the battery, you want to be able to move this hose up and out of the way to give you a little bit of working room. Whenever you make your cuts, make sure you leave it long enough that you can move things around, especially if you need to do any maintenance or repair work on your vehicle at a later time.Now that we have everything secure, we can go ahead and snip off any excess zip tie. Now, dont forget. Before you can test your system, youll need to add the 20-amp fuse that comes with the kit to your fuse holder. Once the fuse is in, we can go ahead and put the cover on it. Now, weve gone ahead and moved back into the vehicle. Were going to need to hook up our monitor light. Now, this is the light that will come on. Well leave it mounted up on our dash, on our rearview mirror. Its multiple locations. It comes with a couple different ways.You can either make it be permanent with the two-sided tape thats already attached, or it comes with the hook-and-loop section that you can attach to the backside of the light, and put the other half either on your dash or on the backside of your rearview mirror. That way, it is removable when not in use. A piece of protective wire loom you can put on. We have our connectors, so that we can disconnect when not in use. Now, were going to have to make a couple connections up here underneath the dash. This side here is the side that will be tied in with the brake light switch, and this brown wire here will be tied in with the black wire coming off of the G-Force controller box, so it goes Its that black and red wire that we ran through the grommet earlier.Now, depending on where you choose to put your plug, you may need to add this piece of jumper wire to go from the red wire to the brake light switch. Now, we usually mount this close enough. Underneath here is a good spot or underneath the dash somewhere. You usually dont need to use the gray piece of wire depending on where youre going to mount your plug at. Now, well go ahead and take our two connectors here. Figure out where the center is. We can then go ahead and cut the wire in half. Well then need to look and see which side has the red thats shielded, so its this side. Set that piece down for now, and were going to work with this piece here, the one that has the red thats in the open or unshielded portion.Go ahead and strip a little bit of wire back here on each. Then, go ahead and take one of the supplied blue butt connectors. Add it to each side, then take our monitor light. Well connect the red with the red wire and the black with the brown wire. We can then go ahead and tape them up with a little bit of electrical tape. Now to go ahead and clean up our look, were going to go ahead and slide our quarter-inch wire loom on to the wire. Next, were going to find the brake switch wire that well need to use. Now, its in this bundle of wires here. Ive gone ahead and pulled off the wire loom, so that we could see the wires.Theres four different wires in the loom, and it runs up to the backside of the brake light switch. Were going to use a test light to find out which wire is hot only when you push in on the brake pedal. Ive gone ahead and taken our test light and grounded it. Well then need to go ahead and hook it to the wire. With it hooked to the wire, so you can see here when I push in on the pedal, it lights up. As soon as I let off, it goes away. Were connected on the purple wire with the white stripe. Thats the wire that well be tying in with to get our signal from the brake light switch. We can go ahead and remove the tester. We can make our two connections.Well be connecting the red wire from the other half of our connector. The one with the shielded red wire will go to the purple wire with the white stripe. Depending on where you choose to mount this, you may need to extend it using that piece of gray wire that comes with the kit and a butt connector. Well just be using a quick-splice style connector here on this end. Now, the brown wire will connect in with the black wire right here. Well just be using a quick-splice connector there as well. Were going to mount our switch or plug, so that it sits down underneath here where this fuse cover is.Well just remove the fuse cover. Set that aside for now. When were not using our plug here, just simply push it back down and out of sight. When youre ready to use it, remove the door, and youll pull the plug out here where youll make your connection. Well go ahead and take our wire. Were going to route the brown wire back over to here where well be using a quick-splice to connect to the black wire like that. Now with our wires in place, well go ahead and crimp down on the connector. There it goes. We can then close the cap on the connector.Next, well go ahead and strip a little bit of the red wire back. Add on the spade connector. That, when the wire is crimped, will slide in there like this. Well then go ahead and go around the purple wire with the white stripe and squeeze it down. Done. Now, to make sure that all of your connections are good, well go ahead and take our test light. Well ground it. Go ahead and press in on the pedal as were touching the red side thats here. That way, we can check to make sure we have a good connection at the brake light switch wire. We can go ahead and put our cover back in place here.When youre using it, the plug will be right here. Take the other end. Plug it in. When youre not using it, you can simply store it up here in the storage area. Slide it in behind there. Its out of the way. When you need to get to it again, you simply remove the fuse cover or loosen it up. Reach your finger in and slide it back out, and its right there. That way, its out of the way, and yet easily accessible still. Now, we can go ahead and mount the other end. Were going to use the hook-and-loop and attach the monitor light to the backside of the rearview mirror, so it will be visible through the camera in the motorhome.Were going to go ahead and peel off the red covering on the two-sided tape thats already attached to the monitor light. Go ahead and take the hook-and-loop. Remove the tape from one side or the backing from the tape on one side. Go ahead and place it on the backside, just attaching it even to the other side of the two-sided tape. You can remove it if you want, but its not necessary. Well then need to take a little rubbing alcohol and a paper towel, and clean the backside of the rearview mirror to make sure that we get good adhesion with the other half of the hook-and-loop.Go ahead and peel the backing of the other half of the hook-and-loop. Well attach it to the backside of the mirror. Then when youre ready to use the system or flat tow, simply attach the monitor light to the other half. Youll then route the wire down where youll make a connection in with your plug here underneath the dash. Next, were going to need to mount the cylinder to the brake pedal itself. Now, were going to need to clear a few things out of the way to gain access to the firewall. This little plastic cover here pulls off of these two studs. It is a little difficult to get off, but if you pull on it enough, it does slide out.Were going to set that aside for now. We will be reinstalling it once we got our actuator installed. Were also going to need to clear an area of this carpet out, so that we have a place to mount the actuator to the metal surface. Were just going to trim out a small section. Next, were going to need to take the plate here for the actuator. It slides over. It goes something like that for now. Well put all four of the nuts back on. Now, heres our actuator and the bracket, and weve done a little bit of test fitting. The stud that comes out of the firewall right there, it actually works with a 6-millimeter nut or an M6 nut, and those are part number 185916. By putting the nut on there, we wont have to drill through the firewall, and it will actually hold the bracket in place.Now, lets go ahead and mount our actuator in the bracket clamp to the firewall. Now, because of the angle of the pedal, youll need to leave the two rear bolts and the nuts out a lot farther. Youll crank the front two in a lot tighter, and that will help straighten out the actuator in relationship to the firewall. Now for the back section, youll notice that theres an allen key head in here. You want to make sure that the cable is double-looped through it, so it will be something like that. Go ahead and take it. Slide it on to the stud. Well then take our 6-millimeter nut, thread it on. Weve gone ahead and tightened it down.Now, you want to line up the actuator, so that when you push in the pedal about two inches, it gives you a straight line between your bracket and the actuator with the cable. Thats partially why we offset this up here, so that it straightens it up a little bit. Youll also want to have about a quarter-inch to half-inch of slack in the cable. Now that we have our actuator positioned, we can go ahead and tighten down the rest of the nut, securing it to the pedal. Well go ahead and take our allen key here. Well tighten down the nut that holds the cable tight.You want to make sure that when you tighten it down that you dont go too tight. It doesnt require a lot of tension or pressure on it. Theres also teeth on the bolt that goes in there, and it will break the cable if you go too tight. Well need to go ahead and trim our air line tubing down a little now that we have our cylinder attached. Once our tubing has been cut down, go ahead and attach it to the cylinder. Push it in and gently pull back. In order to put this plastic piece back on, were going to need nudge or trim out this area here because we used this anchor point. Were just going to take a pair of tinsnips and trim the plastic out, so that its not in the way of the cylinder or the cable.We have plenty of clearance around the cylinder as well as the cable. Lets show you how the system works as it pulls the pedal in. Now, well go ahead and take our four-flat wiring. Well attach it to the motor home. Well then come to the front of the vehicle here using the jumper cord. Now that we have our wiring hooked up, our tow vehicle and RV are connected together. Now, were going to need to adjust the SMI Breaking System. Now, weve gone ahead and turned on the G-Force controller box. Well go ahead and pull out the breakaway pin. With that, that will do it for installation of the SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO Supplemental Breaking System, part number SM99251, as installed here on our 2014 Ford Edge. .


Questions and Comments about this Video

Russ

Is hanging it in front of the radiator really necessary? Doesn't that interfere with the airflow? Would it be possible to mount it on the engine cover as an alternative? I've seen at least one other video where they did that but it was a 2011 Edge. I am removing the Stay-in-play from another vehicle (Honda CR-V) and planning on installing it on our 2014 Ford Edge. The Edge is a 3.5L V6. Do you have the parts I'll need to do this? New cable for the cylinder? New vacuum tubing to both the brake booster and the cylinder. I think the rest of what I need can come from any hardware store. Thank You!

Etrailer Expert
Reply from Jon G.

You can really install the box anywhere that you have room and you know it won't interfere with anything. Yes it will restrict some airflow right in front of the radiator, but the box is only covering a small portion so it won't affect it enough to make a difference. To install the Stay-IN-Play DUO on a different vehicle you should just need the Reinstall Kit # SM6270 .

Reply from Russ

@JonG Thank You!

Steve M.

This guy rocks! I needed to know how to run the air line and brown wire through the fire wall for the Air Force One unit I was installing. The person that did the video for a Air Force One installation on a 2014 Ford Edge sucks! He skipped over that difficult and tricky step completely. The guy doing this video was very through in all the steps, please give him a big raise for solving my problem. Even though I am not using the Stay and Play unit, this video was a lot more help than the one for the AF 1. Please tell him thank you for me!

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