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Advent Air Rooftop RV Air Conditioner Installation - 2013 Palomino Sabre Fifth Wheel

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How to Install the Advent Air Rooftop RV Air Conditioner on a 2013 Palomino Sabre Fifth Wheel

Speaker 1: Today on our 2013 Palomino Sabre we're going to be installing the Advent air rooftop RV air conditioner, part number ACM150.In conjunction with that we'll also be using Advent's ceiling vent assembly with wall mounted thermostat, part number ACRG15, and the Star capacitor for the Advent air conditioners, part number ACMSCKIT.This is going to be one of the quietest AC units out there, and it's going to be a direct replacement for Dometic and Coleman brands. It will also replace existing vents. All you need to do is run your wires up to it, and make sure you support and seal it in your roof there.This is going to be a great upgrade for your camper or RV. So, that way when you're out exploring all day, when you come home, you've got a nice comfortable cabin to sleep in.So, on our thermostat here, we've got our power button, our mode, where you can choose between, cool, heat if you had hooked it up, just a fan, and then here's our fan options here. We can turn it on. It has three speeds.

This is high, then medium, and low.You can adjust your desired temperature setting over here, so that way you just put it at whatever's comfortable for you, and it'll do the rest.There are three vents here that you can use to direct the air, closing or opening them as desired. More open means more airflow so, it'll cool off faster. Less open will slow it down, and also allow you to direct it in a certain directions.There's a filter, located here in the front that you can pop out and clean whenever you need to, and by removing this, you can also gain access to your wiring if you ever need any service in the future.So, here we've got the cover off of our AC units. We can take a closer look at some of the inside components. If we look at our condenser here in the front, you'll see that it uses all coper tubing.

This had 40% more coper tubing than the previous model, and the coper tubing is internally grooved to increase its surface area so you get your maximum cooling.To increase efficiency there's internal channels that takes moisture and condensation, and recirculates it back onto our condenser to make it as efficient as possible.Another thing you may want to consider is a heat strip. This is just an AC unit, so it doesn't provide any heat, however an optional heat strip can be installed next to your evaporator here which will help provide some heat. It's not meant to heat your entire RV, but to help take the chill off on a cold morning. You can pick up that heat strip using part number ACMHD.As you can see here, we've got a nice thick foam seal that's going to go all the way around the opening that we have in our roof. So, when we tighten it down the seal's going to collapse and create an airtight seal that'll also help prevent vibrations, and noise from transferring from your AC unit into the cabin of your RV.We're going to start our installation here in the vehicle.

We need to make sure we've got a suitable location for our AC unit. We're going to be putting ours where this vent here used to be. So, we'll have to start taking this off. Now, before you start working, it is a good idea to place down some material inside your vehicle so you don't get it all dirty. We're just using cardboard here, especially since we're in the bedroom.We'll just use our Phillips-head screwdriver here to get the vent cover off.

Now, we're looking for our wiring here. If you're replacing your unit, you just want to locate where your wiring is to make sure that it's going to be suitable for your new unit. If you're installing it in a location where there was no unit perviously, you may need to run your own wiring.Here on this particular vehicle there's a cover with a sticker on it noting that there's wiring for an AC unit right here. So, we're going to take a look and see what we've got.Just to make sure that we're not going to get any type of electrical shock, we're going to turn off all of our breakers, so that way there's no chance of any 110 live circuitry that we're going to run into.So, we've now got access to our wiring. It's all taped up here. We're just going to remove it so we can see what we've got.We've got our neutral wire, ground, and power. Now we're going to take a few quick measurements of the opening that we've got available here. For this unit to work, we're going to need a measurement of 14 by one eight to 14 by three eighths. So, let's see what we've got here. Looks like we're at about 14 and three eighths, so we're okay there, and going this direction we're the same at 14 and three eighths. So, our opening's the appropriate size.Now, we're on top of our RV. We've going to need to remove our vent unit here. If you had an AC system that was here and you're just replacing it, you'd take that off.So, to get our vent off, we're going to need to remove the sealant around it, and then remove all the screws. To get it off, you can use a putty knife to get underneath of it and pry it upward. I like to also use a razor knife to cut along the seam near our vent here to help make it pull up easier.We're just trying to work it up so we can get access to our screws here so we can remove our vent. Once we get the vent out, it'll make the rest of the seal removal easier.Cutting the slit along the side allows you to just pull it up off of your vent cover here. It likes to stick to the roof more than it does the metal vent cover.Now that we've got all the sealant removed from around our vent, we can take the screws out of our vent. There's going to be several all the way around it. Just remove all those, we can pull our vent up.Most trailer screws use a square bit. The one we're using here is size number two, so do check that before you get into this, because square bits are a bit specialty, so you may need to buy a set.Now that we've got all our screws out, we can just pry up around the edges our our vent here to get it to come off. You do want to work it around evenly so you don't damage or bend the vent or the roof.Couple of screw drivers and a putty knife can help with working around evenly. Just keep working it up. Now, once you've got your vent removed, you just need to go back and clean up all the remaining sealant around the edges, so that way you've got a nice smooth, flush finish for your AC to sit on top.Our next step, we need to make sure that we've got all the appropriate wires run to hook up our unit. You're going to need 110 volts, which we have here. You'll need to run your wires for your thermostat from where you're going to mount it. We've got those here ran over from the wall where we've got our thermostat mounting location, and then you need your 12 volts. Now, we currently don't have 12 volts run up here, so we're going to run it through our ceiling here. We've already ran some pull wires up from over to our bathroom, because we need a constant 12 volt source, and we're going to get that from the light switch in the bathroom.The RV already had a thermostat mounted, however it won't work with our unit. So, we're going to mount our new thermostat in this location, and we're going to use the wiring that's already ran from here up to where our AC unit's going to go.Now, we're running our 12 volt wire from our bathroom light switch over to our AC unit mounting location. You may have to remove some vent panels in your bathroom, or if you find another source of 12 volts that's constant 12 volts, you may need to remove some panels to get it routed up to the ceiling and over to where you're going to mount your unit.You'll need to pick up some extra wire for your 12 volt circuit. You can pick that up here at're getting our constant 12 volts from our bathroom light switch here. That's going to be our blue and white striped circuits here. We're hooking it up using this four wire conduit. You only need two wires, just a power and a ground to run over to your unit, but we're running two extra wires for our customer's future use.Tap into our blue and white wire here for power, strip back some from each of these circuits, and we'll put it into one of our yellow butt connectors. You can also pick up some butt connectors here at we'll need to cut one of the white wires that are all together, as it's our ground. Strip it back on both ends and we'll attach our butt connector to just one end for now.We can now take our new wiring that we're going to be running over to our AC unit, we're going to twist both the white wires, the one that we had cut and the one from the wire running over, twist those together, crimp those in to the white wire butt connector, and that'll provide us with our necessary ground over at the AC unit. We're going to take our black wire for our power wire and connect that to the two blue circuits we just attached.Okay, now we just got to put this switch panel back together and finish running our wire up over to our AC unit.Now, this is where we ran our pull wire from our light switch. We went up through the wall, down through the vent, and we went back through the vent to make it to this wall, to another light location on the other side, and we're just hoping from ceiling cavity to ceiling cavity to make our way over to the light. We're just using some pull wire and some electrical tape here and attaching each pull wire to our wire and pulling it through as we need to, to make our way over. It is a bit tedious and challenging to get it there, but if you take your time, and use whatever cavities you have available, hop from one to the other, it should be no problem.Now, before you set your AC unit in place, you want to make sure that it's framed off around your opening for extra support. As you can see ours is already framed off with metal, but you also want to make sure that it's sealed. So, If you don't have a frame out, I would suggest building out of wood so you can seal off all your opening to the roof to prevent any air being sucked in or blown into the roof above your cabin.Since ours already has a metal frame, instead of closing it all off with another wooden frame, we're going to use some foam spray to seal it all up.Before we put our air conditioning unit on top of our RV, we're going to put a Star capacitor in it. This'll help with starting under low current situations, like some RV parks may have.Remove the four screws located on each side, as well as the two screws located in the back.Now, the cover can just be lifted off and sat aside. We can now take our Star capacitor out of our box and we're going to install it on our AC unit. You want your wire to be facing towards the styrofoam portion that covers up your evaporator and part of the motor there. We'll use one of the two screws provided in the kit, thread it through the hole, and we're going to thread it right into the bracket on the side of the motor there.We'll then do the same on the other side of the capacitor with the other hole. Now we're on the other side of our AC unit. We've taken the wire, run it overtop the motor, and down over to our connection point here To gain access to where we need to connect it, we'll have to cut the zip-tie off. You can do this with a pair of snips, or a razor knife.Take that zip-tie off and this'll just slide up. You'll connect one wire to the post labeled, "HERM." It has the red wire. So, we'll just slide that onto one of the posts, and you'll connect the other black wire to the post labeled, "Common," which is a, "C," here and has the white wire. So, we'll put that right in the middle post right here.Now, we'll take our rubber cap, slide it back on, just work it around the unit there. Once you've got it pushed back on use the zip-tie provided in the kit to re-secure it, and reinstall your cover.While this is one of the lighter AC units out there weighing in at only 68 pounds, it is still recommended that you get an extra set of hands to help you get it up on top of your RV.Once you're up on top though, you can easily put it in place yourself over your 14 and a quarter inch, by 14 and a quarter inch square, and just simply slide it on over, make sure you line up your gaskets in each corner.Now that our AC compressor's installed we can install our evaporator temperature sensor. We'll take the probe end of the sensor here, and slide it into the blue small clip in our evaporator core there. Take the probe end, just slide it in. Once it's slid in, take your excess wire and you're slide it under the clip on top of the sensor.Now, we're ready to put up our control box. Before we put that on though, we need to peel off the sticky tape here in the back and put our inlet and outlet separator in place. So, it just sticks right to the back of that there. Just work that on all the way around, making sure you've got it all the way flush against the bottom frame, and then get your tape nice and secure.We'll now slide our control box up. Make sure you feed all your wiring down through the middle of it. Our wires coming out of our control box are going to be facing towards the front of our RV or camper. You'll use the long bolt provided in the kit to go up through the bottom of this frame, right into the bottom of the AC unit on top of the RV. You'll have one of each of these in all four corners.It may be necessary to make some minor adjustments to how your compressor is sitting so that the bolts line up. So, I have to push it over just a hair. Now that we've got them all in place, we're just going to run them up using a 10 millimeter socket. This will compress the seal here on top that you can get an airtight, waterproof fit on the top of your RV.Now, depending on your roof opening here, how thick it is, you may need to readjust the separator from the inlet and the outlet. So, we took it back off here, we're going to push ours up until it's flush against the bottom of our AC unit, and then we're going to stick it back down to our sticky tape. This way we've got a nice seal between our inlet here, and our outlet here.We can now start hooking up our wiring. We'll start with our evaporator temperature sensor that we attached up top. We'll plug that connector in here, the one labeled, "Free sensor," then we can hook up our power and ground wires, which is going to be the red and black wire labeled, "12 volts DC." Those will hook up to the wires that we had run ourselves from our bathroom switch.We'll strip back the wiring that we had run. The red wire on the unit is going to be positive 12 volts DC. Connect that wire first to our butt connector, and then we'll connect the other end to the 12 volts positive that we ran to it, which in our case is our black circuit here.We'll then connect the ground, which is the black wire on our unit labeled, "12 volts DC ground." I like to fold it over when it's real long like that. That'll just help it stay in the crimp better. Then, we'll connect to the ground wire that we had run, which in our case is the white wire. Now we have our 12 volt power and ground ran to our unit.Next, we're going to hook up our thermostat wires. These are the existing thermostat wires that we're run up to our unit, and these are the wires coming off of our unit so, we'll connect those now.We'll now hook up our 12 volt power, which is the red wire off of our t-stat 00:17:52 labeled, "Bundle of wires." Crimp that on to our butt connector here, and we'll connect the other end to a red wire that we've got coming off of our thermostat bundle here.We're going to hook up our ground wire next, which is the green wire. Crimp that onto our butt connector here, then we'll go ahead and hook the other end up to the green wire that goes over to our thermostat.Now all that's left is our two communication wires. One will be labeled, "A." Through a blue wire we have over here, then we'll hook up our last communication wire, which is the purple wire labeled, "B," and we're going to connect this to the brown wire over here, since we don't have a purple one to match it.Now you want to plug in your AC unit. There'll be a wire stuffed up right next to your evaporator. Pull that wire down and plug it into your control box here. Now our AC unit's connected to our control device. Here we have our original thermostat that was installed. Now this one wasn't hooked up to any AC unit since there was none there and we're adding one, however this one won't work with our unit so we're going to take it off.Now we'll take our new thermostat, we'll have to separate the two halves so we can install it. If you look in the top there's two locations for a screwdriver and on the bottom there's one. Just stick your screwdriver in the slot there. Give it a little twist to pop the tab and the back one should just pop off.So we'll connect this piece to our wall now and then we'll hook up the wires afterwards. We're going to use the existing screws that we're in our old thermostat to mount our new one. So we'll just slide those in. Take our wiring run it through the large open cavity here. Might need to loosen it up as they are slotted a little bit so you get some adjustment to make it level.Now we'll hook up the wires to our thermostat. You'll see they're labeled on the back side here, Com for ground, 12 volts positive, communication A, and communication B. I like to unscrew each one a little bit to make it easier to insert the wire, because the wire's just going to go in the slots located down below and then you'll tighten the screws up to hold them in place.We're going to connect our brown wire, which we connected to communication B up at our control unit into the slot marked B here. Just slide it in and tighten it down. You do want to make sure it's snug so the wire won't pull out, but you want to be careful not to over tighten so you don't damage the circuit board.Once you've got a good little resistance there just give it a little tug and make sure everything's okay and then we'll move on to our next wire, which is going to be the blue wire that we connected to communication A. We'll slide that into our A slot. Double check to make sure it's tight and then move onto the next. Which is 12 volts positive which is what we connected our red wire to.So we'll slide that in. Double check it. And our last wire which is our ground wire. We'll slide it in and tighten it down. Okay. So the rest of our wiring we can just fold those over, tuck them back in because they're not connected to anything, and we can just connect our box back together by lining up the tabs and pushing it together.Now we need to hook up our one-power to our AC unit. Now the wires that we had already run here went to a control box here, however they're not long enough to reach our unit so we're going to turn this little box into a junction box and we've got some wire that we extended over so we just need to make our connections now.Connect our white wires together. We picked up this extra 110 voltage wire at our local hardware store along with these screw nut connectors that we'll be using to connect it to our junction box and to our AC unit.We'll now hook our white wires together in our junction box. You just twist on there and it holds them together. We'll then repeat for our black wires and our ground wire. The ground wire's bare on our original unit, but is green on the wire that we picked up from our hardware store.So we connected our black wires together which is our power wires, our white wires together which is our ground wires, and our green with our bare which is our neutral wires. We can now take our junction box we made back into the ceiling, put the panel back on, and then run our wires over to our unit.Our 110 wires hook up behind this panel here. We'll need to unscrew this black nut here and that's where we'll feed our wiring through and we'll make our connections to the wires located in here.Use our Phillips head to take this cover off. We'll then take the nut that we took off there, slide it over our wiring, then slide our wiring through and pull it down. We'll just loosely install this now. We don't want to fully tighten it because that'll lock our wiring in place, and we're going to need a little bit of freedom while we're getting everything hooked up.Now we'll connect our wires. Again, we're going to go black to black that's our power. White to white for our grounds. Then our green to our green with the yellow stripe for our neutral circuits. Those can just be poked back up inside the box. Then we can put our cover back on. Once you've got these tightened down you can just press your cover back into place.And as you can see here it's lit up indicating that we've got power. Now it is flashing saying low and that's because our RV right now has lo voltage on it's 12 volt system. This can easily be solved by hooking up your vehicle to it's trailer connector. Turn your vehicle on you'll get some power from there and then you'll see an appropriate reading.Now we can just take a little time to clean up our wiring. Use some zip ties. If you need some zip ties some can be found here at And we're just going to wrap everything up. Have a nice neat little bundle.We can now put up our vents. So you want to remove all the tape from both sides. Then you'll have to take your vent cover off. This just pops out. So, that again that pops out this way and then you pull upward towards the outside like that to release it.We'll put the opening towards the front. We can use the screws provided to thread it into our cover, and take the self tapping screws provided in the kit and thread it through your corners up into the metal frame.The screws towards the rear will have little plastic caps that'll cover them. Those just push into place. We can put our vent filter back on lining the tabs up in the rear first pushing them into their slots.Now that we've got everything hooked up we can turn it on and make sure it's working properly. So we'll go ahead, and it's currently 64 degrees in here so we'll set it down to 60 and you can hear our AC compressor and fan kick on. And we've got cold air blowing on us.And that'll complete our installation of Advent's Air Conditioning System on our 2013 Palomino Sabre.

Jim J.


When the installer unwraps and points to the individual wires in the 120v wiring harness, he touches them one at a time and identifies them as the Neutral, Ground, and Power. They are in fact in the order touched the Ground bare, Power Black, and Neutral White.

Etrailer Expert

Jon G.


Thank you for the comment! While those color wires might be true for your application, it is important to note that there aren't requirements when it comes to wire colors so for this trailer the wire colors may not match with what you have. The important thing is to make sure that you are matching functions instead of the wire colors.

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