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Air Lift WirelessAIR Compressor System for Air Helper Springs Installation - 2018 Ram 2500

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How to Install the Air Lift WirelessAIR Compressor System for Air Helper Springs on a 2018 Ram 2500

Hey everybody, Ryan here at etrailer. Today, on our 2018 Ram 2500, we're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Air Lift EZ Wireless Air Compressor. So, when it comes to compressor systems, there's a lot of different ones available and I've had experience with a ton of them. You know, just about everyone out there I've messed with. And honestly, this one is probably my top pick. It's really simple.

It works really well. And which in turn, makes it really reliable. So, you really can't ask for too much more. You know, we do a lot of these and we never really have any issues at all with them. So, they seem to work out real well for a lot of people.

And this thing does a lot of cool things. I really like how it's wireless. It kinda, you know, kinda brings a compressor system like this into today's era. And one of the things that it's gonna allow you to do is adjust the pressure in your bags from back here. You know, this actually has a pretty good signal, so you can stand quite a ways back.

So, for example, let's say, you're hooked up to your trailer and you go, "Oh man, it's sitting too low. I need to pump some air in the bags." You turn it on. It fills the bags up nice and quick. And what that's gonna allow you to do is kinda make your adjustments from back here. You know, you go, "Okay, it's about where I want it." And you're done.

As compared to let's say an analog-type one where you have to get in the truck and hold the compressor button down, fill them up, come back and check, or even over just your standard manual inflation-type airbags, or airbag system, rather, you know, that's gonna, you know, you're gonna have to take your air hose and bring it out there and fill them up and come back and keep doing that. So, a wireless setup like this really makes adjustments super easy. So, I did mention those manual inflation valves, and that's gonna be how all of your airbags are gonna be hooked up, you know, generally speaking. And what's cool about this setup is it uses T-fittings, and so you can still maintain your manual inflation valves. That way, you kinda have a backup. You know, if you're anything like me, I always like to have a couple different ways to do things if I absolutely have to. So, by still, you know, retaining the manual inflation valves, it really makes things convenient. You always have a backup and another way to get the job done if you need to. So, one of the big questions that we get asked a lot is if the compressor is able to work with any type of airbag, more or less, and the answer is, yes. And today, we have a perfect example of that. So, we actually have Firestone airbags installed on our truck and the compressor's not gonna have any problem working with them. You know, the compressor doesn't care if, you know, what brand the airbag is per se. It's got one job to do and that's fill that bag up with air, and that's exactly what it does. Something that I do really like about the setup is our mounting options. So this is relatively small in size. You can put this thing for the most part pretty much anywhere you can fit it. You know, there is, you know, some recommendations on how to mount it. You can't mount it upside down and things like that, but you really do have a ton of options. You know, generally speaking, I put mine on a frame rail here, but I've put them in toolboxes in the beds of trucks and a few different other spots too. So you can really get creative with how you want to do things. If you're looking to have some type of special application or things like that. And one of the great parts is it's all integrated into one unit here, all right So the easy mount bracket makes it super easy to get around your frame. You don't have to drill or anything like that. A lot of other compressors will have all these components, but separate, so you'll have to mount up one portion and another portion and kind of have to do a little more work there. So this keeps everything contained, easy to work on and easy to figure out. The remote isn't the only way you can operate the compressor. You can actually download an app on your mobile device and that app will allow you to do the same things that the remote will. So if you ever lose this or, you know, anything happens to it, you can still operate the compressor. You know, chances are pretty good you're always gonna have your phone with you, and that's gonna allow you to make those adjustments if necessary. So this thing does run on a battery. Battery does come with it. However, on the side here, there's gonna be a small port and this will allow you to plug in and operate it like that too. This isn't gonna charge up the remote unfortunately. I think that'd be really neat if that we're the case so we could just plug it in. But you know, if the battery dies, you can always plug this in and still use it, you know So you're not kind of left stranded, so a nice touch. Like I said, I think it'd be cool. There's some room for improvement. You could recharge this, but you know, not the end of the world. So at the end of the day, going with a wireless kit like this is definitely your best bet, at least in my opinion. I know some people really like the older analog type systems, but the issue is with those that I've ran into a lot with these newer trucks is simply the fact that you just don't have the space on your dash anymore like you used to, you know There's a lot of stuff going on here. Those analog setups are big, take up a lot of room. And it's really challenging to mount those types of systems up. So a wireless one like this is going to solve all those issues, and at the same time, you know, like I said, it's a really reliable and user-friendly, so you really can't go wrong with it. Now, as far as the installation goes, it's probably the easiest compressor system that I've put on. All the wiring is in order and kind of pre-made, if you will. But the compressor assembly being on one big bracket, easy mount, everything's really straightforward. So, you know, it really shouldn't give you a lot of issues. Speaking of which, let's go ahead, pull into the garage and put it on together now. To begin our installation, we're gonna be here on the passenger side of our truck, and we're gonna be working kind of just underneath the back door here in this area. And we're gonna need to mount up the compressor. Once we get it mounted, it'll be relatively tight. So what I figured what we would do first is get our air filter hooked up. So this is pretty straightforward. We're gonna have our air filter and this fitting. This fitting, you can just thread that on. Should just do it hand-tight since the air filter's plastic. It's gonna come with a short length of hose. That's just gonna push right over that barbed fitting. And then up here on top of our compressor, there's gonna be another barbed fitting. Other end of the hose is just gonna slide right over it. With this set up, now we can go ahead and get this mounted. So now we can mount up our compressor system and we're gonna use as big U-bolt. So that's just gonna slide around the frame. And what we're gonna do is take the compressor, and it's gonna have holes in the bracket where it'll line up. So we'll do our best to hold this up here. And we're gonna have some nylon lock nuts, and we're just gonna get these started on each end, so you have one at the bottom, and one way up here at the top. And when you're mounting this system, you don't have to do it exactly like this. Really, the only thing you gotta look out for is you don't want this portion to be facing, you know, this flat portion here to be facing down towards the ground, or you don't want the Air Lift logo to be upside down. So this is a perfect orientation and it'll work out pretty well for our setup here. Then we'll come back with a 9/16 socket and snug the nuts down. You may have notice, you know, with this running through our U-bolt in between our frame. That's perfectly fine. Whenever the U-bolt is dropped down as far as it can go, that opening is big enough to where this isn't getting pinched or anything like that. So whenever you tighten this down, just make sure you do it this way. Now we can mount up our air filter. When you do this, you want to make sure to find a spot that's dry and kind of out of the weather. And what I've done up here is just drilled a small hole. Obviously when you're drilling, this is actually hollow in there, but make sure you're not gonna drill through the side of your truck or anything like that. And the way this works is this just kinda snaps in there, and when you mount this, make sure that this portion is facing down. Now we can get the wiring harness and work on getting this hooked up. So one end is gonna have a connector plug there. That's just gonna plug right into the compressor system, like so, and then we're gonna have a red and a black wire coming off the compressor and an additional red and black wire coming off of our harness. And what we need to do is hook these up to those. Now we're not gonna be using these attached terminals here. We're just gonna be using a butt connector, that way, these will essentially be a permanent type connection. I'm gonna cut these. And strip the ends back. These wires are a little thinner than those, so what I'm gonna do is kind of double them up so it'll fit into the butt connector a little bit better. And crimp it down. And we'll just go color for color here, so the red one is gonna get hooked up to the other red, and the black wire will get hooked up to the other black wire there. Come back with a heat gun and seal up the ends. At this point we can start to route our wires towards the front of the truck to go into the engine compartment. Right here what I did was just taped everything up and kind of zip-tied it. That way there's kind of a loop there in our wiring or a bend, rather. And with that said, I just started to route the wiring along our frame rail, and you want to do your best to avoid any hot or moving parts. And I kind of just secured it along the way using some zip ties. So about over here, it's gonna go up and over that body mount, and then there in our wheel well area is where we pushed it up into the engine compartment. So now, underneath the hood, here's where our wiring came up. Just ran it right up along through here, and the red and the black wire are gonna get connected to the battery, so I routed those along through here. For the positive side, I simply used the butt connector and crimped on this fuse holder. I did that the same way we did the other ones. You know, you strip them back from, crimp them down and heat them up. On this end I used a ring terminal and connected it to the positive battery post. Before you do that, make sure the fuse is not installed. We'll put that in at the very end. With that said, pull that nut off with a 10 millimeter, put the ring terminal over it, tighten it down. As far as the black wire is concerned, this has gotta be grounded. So this one I just ran over right over here to the negative side of our battery, crimped on a ring terminal, removed the nut with a 10, put it over and tightened it back down. There's one more wire that we're gonna need to hook up. Move back here where our wires originally came up. We're gonna have this pink wire, and this is gonna need to get connected to our fusebox. So that's over on the driver's side. I simply just routed our wire and zip-tied it up along the way over to the driver's side of our vehicle. So here's that pink wire. Kind of just runs along and down through here. And so here's our fusebox. We'll pop the cover off of it. And we're looking for a fuse that's hot when the key is ignitioned on. And one that I used was fuse 93, F93, it's for the cigar lighter. And I prefer to use something like that. That way, if it does, you know, if the fuse does pop or something, it's not like it's hooked up to our PCM or something super important. You know, we can love another day without a cigar lighter for the time being. So that's why I chose that one. And I used this fuse tap. This one is not included. You'll have to pick this up separately, but I simply just connected that to that pink wire with a butt connector, put in the original fuse and then the three amp fuse into it. That's the size fuse you're supposed to use for this wire. This kit does come with some fuse taps that you might be able to make work. They're the wrong size, so I would suggest looking into something like this or going another route there to allow you to tap into the fusebox. Now we can go ahead and start to hook up our airlines. And so what I've done is stretched out the bundled airline, cut it about in half. And whenever you cut it, you want to make sure that the ends are really straight and clean, so you want to use a tool like this, or just a razor edge, or even a tubing cutter. That way it don't leave any burrs or anything like that. If you use a regular pair of snips, it could kind of kink it, cause a leak. But with that said, you know, these lines are gonna go to each individual airbag, and so to help kind of keep things straight and on one end or on one of the pieces of airline tube at each end, I just kind of painted some white there just to kind of keep everything straight. And I also found the port there on our compressor, which goes to the right side and put a white mark there. So I know the white paint on this hose is gonna be plugged in here, and so this is gonna have to go to the passenger side or the right side of our airbag system. But with that said, we can plug these in. These are just push quick connect fittings, so you just simply line the hose up and push it right into place. And you'll feel it kinda lock in, if you will. And now we can start to route it. So what I've done- Every now and again too, you'll see some of this wire loom I just put over the hose around sharp edges and things like that, but both of those hoses are gonna be in this wire loom and they're gonna run, enter this opening there in the frame or they kind of continue over this way. So underneath the truck now, this is where the airline tubing came out. So when we push it in the hole in the frame, comes right out of this hole on the inside portion of our frame. I just routed this up. And right here, it actually goes up and over our frame kinda towards the outside of it. So here's where that airline tubing comes out on the outside of our frame. And had to do it this way, really no other options. A lot of moving parts and exhaust pipes and everything else, so this will be just fine like this. But I have those tubes running into this hole there in our frame. So that airline tubing is gonna run inside of our frame rail towards the back of the truck. And you can actually see where it drops out right here. So you can see this airline tube has our white marks, and we know that's for the right side or passenger side of our airbag, and this is our existing airbag tubing here. And so you're just gonna simply have to T into it. You cut that existing tubing in half, plug your T in, and then simply take the appropriate tube from our compressor, plug it into the top of the fitting. The left side or driver's side tubing simply just continues along. Little tricky to see, but it kinda runs up there behind our spare tire. Up through here. And this is where it drops down. This is our existing driver's side airbag tubing, and so why don't we go ahead and just hook this one up to the other So what I'm gonna do is cut our tubing there and drain the bags. There was still a little bit of air left in them, but not really a huge deal there as long as it's not a ton of pressure. That T-fitting is just gonna plug right into both of those ends. And we can take our airline tube, and we'll kind of trim a little bit of that off. It's just gonna plug right into that T port there. Now, what I like to do before we actually turn on our compressor is manually put some air in the system. That way we can pressurize it and check for any potential leaks. To check for leaks, it's really simple. First, you know, you can use your ears. You know, can you hear any air leaking You can also use some soapy water. And what you're gonna do is simply spray all the fittings where we made our connections, and what we're looking for is for bubbles to be rapidly and continually forming. You know, once you spray it on there, you'll get some bubbles just naturally out of the spray bottle, but we're looking for ones that continue to come out of the fitting, and it looks like this one's good. I don't see any of that happening. If you did have a leak, what you need to do is take the air out of the bags, disconnect the fitting, re-cut that line, plug it back in and try it out all again. That way, you know, we verified that we don't have any leaks. Now what we need to do is come under the hood into your fuse holder, take the included 15 amp fuse and put that into place. Now, once this powers up, the compressor is gonna be more or less activated, so if you have no air in the bags, you'll probably hear the compressor kick on. If you have inflated above the preset amount, which I believe is five PSI, you'll probably hear it start to dump some air and let that pressure out. Gonna put this in and close up our cover. So as soon as you put the battery in the handheld remote, it'll say pairing, and you should be able to pair up with the compressor. So that's it there. We'll go ahead and hit Enter. And this is what's going to allow us to connect to it and make all of our adjustments. And that'll finish up our look at and our installation of the Air Lift EZ Wireless Air Compressor on our 2018 Ram 2500..

Info for this part was:

Employee Joshua S
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Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
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Employee Dustin K
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Dustin K
Employee Chris R
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Employee Kathleen M
Installed by:
Kathleen M
Employee Jonathan Y
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Employee Thomas T
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Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee David F
Test Fit:
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Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G

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