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Air Lift Ride Control Air Helper Springs Installation - 2008 Chevrolet Silverado

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How to Install the Air Lift Ride Control Air Helper Springs on a 2008 Chevrolet Silverado


Today, in our 2008 Chevrolet Silverado 2500, we're going to do a review and install of the Air Width load controller 2 compressor system for air helper springs, part number AL25592. Here's what our gauge assembly will look like, once it's installed. Good reason for this gauge assembly is to make it easy to use your load lifter 5000 air helper springs, so you don't have to manually air them up. With a simple push button, we can air up our bags. And from the cab of the vehicle easily release the air once we're finished. If we take our key, put it into the auxiliary, or run, position you can see it turns on the lights to our gauge assembly. With power supply to it, we can push the toggle switch up, and air up our compressor and air bag system. Then to release the air, we simply press on the push button release valve and will allow the air back out of the bags, decreasing the pressure in the system. Special note: here you can see we're going below the 5 psi and it causes the pressure gauge to fluctuate as it drives the air back up while I'm releasing the air. Now let's go ahead and show you how to install it. Now to begin our install, we're going to start by mounting our air compressor.

Now when mounting your air compressor, and looking suitable location, you want stay away from any moving components; such as your steering and suspension, or excessive heat such as the exhaust. So we're not going to mount it in the engine compartment. And mounting it in the cab is not available on this application. So our second choice is going to be here, on the inside of the frame rail. We're about halfway back, or in the middle of the vehicle, where we can mount it directly to the box frame no this side and on the other side, we're going to make a slight modification by adding a metal strap to help secure our compressor. We'll start here on the back edge.

I'm mounting directly to the frame using the self tapping screw provided with our install kit. Now my first one is in place, go ahead and get my second one in position. Now on the other side here, we're going to add a metal strap that just spans the length of our frame so that we have a good attachment point for our compressor. We'll just use self tapping screws to secure it to the frame. Now I got that started to hold the top side.

Got our bottom side here lined up and start installing our second fastener for our strap. All right. Now with our metal strap in place, we can go head and run our last two fasteners in securing our compressor. Now we have a good, solid mount. And a nice, dry, clean area for our compressor. We've got the two wires that comes from our compressor.

The red will be power, and will get connected to wiring harness airline that will run towards the cab of our vehicle. And the black wire, with the pre-attached ring terminal, is the ground for the compressor. And since we're attaching directly to the frame, what we can do is pull out one of our securing fasteners and install the ring terminal and then re-secure the fastener attaching it to the vehicles frame, creating our ground. And just like that, our compressor ground is secured. Here we have our airline and connector for our power wire, and to go to the compressor. Now, these airlines can be a little stiff in getting it up and over the barbed fitting. So it's recommended to soak the line in some hot water for 3-5 minutes, softening up the line a little bit, making it easier to get onto our barbed fitting. Now, once we've waited our five minutes out, go ahead and pull the line out of the hot water. Just gonna take some of that moisture off of it and then we'll fit it up over the barbed fitting. Now once we have it in place, we'll take the spade terminal and connector plugging the two together. Note, I'm also going to take some black electrical tape and wrap up this connection point. Help keep that dirt, dust, debris and moisture out of the connection point. Now with out electrical connector secured and wrapped up, we'll go ahead an take the remaining portion of our airline and harness, route down the frame rail. And the follow the manufacturers wiring, up the fire wall. Now, once we've got our airline routed, we're just going to use the zip ties provided to go back and secure it as necessary. Now that we've got the airline and harness running to the engine compartment, we're gonna go ahead and leave that and come back to our compressor. Right off the compressor is the T that we installed earlier with the line and harness. This will supply the airline that'll go back to the airbags at the rear of the vehicle that we're previously installed. Now to install the supplied airline into the fitting, we'll firmly press it in. Pulling back to lock in place. We'll take the other end of the airline and route it back towards the manual inflation valve, where it's been previously installed. Now we've got our airline routed to the previously installed airline and because this is a single inflation valve system, which means one inflation valve fills both sides or both airbags, we only need to T in in one place. We can do it right here on the driver's side. But first, I'm going to cut to length the airline we've just routed. To trim our airline we're gonna use the airlift air hose cutter, part number AL10530. This'll give us a nice square cut on our airline without crimping it. Then, I'll cut the previously installed airline. We can go ahead an put our T in place. This is another push fitting, so you firmly press the line all the way in, pull back to lock it in position. Now our feed or airline that directly airs up our airbags is in place. Now that we're finished with our install underneath, we'll go ahead and secure it all of our airline and harnesses. We'll go ahead and cut off all the excess from the zip ties. Clean up our install look. Now in order to get our airline and harness into the cab of the vehicle, we need to go through the firewall. Now, for this application there isn't an easy manufacturers grommet to route through, so we're going to drill a hole and install the spectrum snap bushing part number SWC8057. So drilling from the inside out, we're gonna make a hole large enough, up to 11/16th, so that we can install our snap bushing. Now since we'll be drilling from the inside out, here at the firewall, above the manufacturers junction box is where we're gonna go through it. Now there's some insulation that we'll need to cut out of the way before we can drill through the sheet metal of the firewall. Using a hole saw bit, just gonna cut away some of that insulation. Now with our insulation out of the way, we've even got a pilot hole to get us started. Next we use a step bit, opening up to our final size of 11/16th. Now once we have the hole drilled out, we can install our snap bushing. Now with the snap bushing in place we're gonna go back into the engine compartment, there's some insulation on the firewall that'll have to be trimmed. Here in the insulation, you can see where we're just coming through the firewall. So we need to cut out a hole large enough that we can get our airline through it. Using a utility knife, I'm just going to cut out a section. Now we can just see our grommet coming through the insulation. Next we'll take the airline and wiring harness and feed it through the grommet and into the cab. Now here in the cab of the vehicle, we're ultimately going to route our airline and electrical to the back of our gauge assembly. To start, we need to route a power and ground wire to connect to the gauge light. Next we'll strip back the wires and add the terminals provided with the install kit. Go ahead and strip back both wires. And then add our connectors. So we add the connector, crimp it down, we'll give it a quick tug on it to make sure it's got a good connection. Now once those two are ready, I'm just going to set them aside and we'll make our connection with out gauge unit after we install the airline. Now this portion of the airline will come form the low pressure sensing switch. We'll go ahead and follow our power and ground wire we just ran. Behind the dash support. And behind the gauge unit. Now once that's in place, just like we did at our connection point for our compressor, we're gonna go ahead and soak our line in some hot water so that we can install it onto the fitting at the back of the compressor. Now we'll just put the airline in the hot water, not the electrical connections. We'll let that sit for 3-5 minutes, so the hot water can soften the line. All right now once we've softened the line, go ahead and pull it out of the water stick it onto the fitting here on our gauge assembly. Next we'll take the two wire connector and go into the bottom of our switch. Firmly press that into place, give it a little wiggle. Make sure it's locked into position. The take the single wire connector and go into the top connection of our switch. We'll take the two wires that we've routed previously and put our connectors on and attach them here to the switch. Now it doesn't matter which connector we use, we're just supplying power and ground, so it can be reversed. There's no specific order. Now with all our connections make to the back of our gauge assembly, we can go ahead and mount it. We'll use the self tapping screws provided with our install kit, and secure it here, to our dash. Now, with a good secure mount, we'll continue following our wiring that we installed into our gauge, making those connections. Now we're going to take our black wire, that runs to the gauge light, it's gonna route behind the gas pedal. And over here towards the sheet metal, coming from the firewall to create our ground. Once I have my length, I'm gonna bring it back out here. Cut to length. Strip it back. Then I can add the ring terminal, that's supplied with our install kit. Crimp it down. Go ahead and route it back behind the gas pedal. Where we're gonna secure it with a self tapping screw. Just like that, we've got a good secured ground connection. Next we're gonna take red power wire for our gauge light. Route it here underneath the dash, and ultimately towards the side of the dash panel next to the drivers door. When routing your wiring, it's just like routing your airline, keep it away from any moving components such as gas or brake pedal. Or excessive heat, if you're in the engine compartment. Here. At the side of the dash, is our fuse box. By removing the fuse box panel, we can access the fuse compartment, here. The number three fuse, according to the fuse chart, is a 2 amp fuse. This fuse is only powered when the ignition is in the on or run position. Which is perfect for powering our gauge assembly. So next, we'll go ahead and trim our wire to length. Strip it back and add a spade terminal so we can use it with a supplied fuse tap. Fuse tap works like this: the fuse sets inside the fuse tap. Coming off one leg of the fuse, and the spade terminal will go into the other end. I'm gonna go ahead and pull the fuse tap out of the fuse box and install the fuse tap. It slides onto the leg of the fuse, and then in position. Now we'll go ahead and reinstall the fuse into the fuse box. Now we go ahead and take our connector and slide it onto the terminal of our fuse tap. And just like that, we've created power and ground for the gauge light. Now, I'm going to go ahead and secure the wire here in the dash. Cut off the excess from the zip tie. Get it out of the way. Clean up the install look. Then reinstall the fuse panel cover. Next. We're gonna take the airline that comes from the gauge, goes to our low pressure switch, and the airline that runs from our compressor and connect the two together. So I'm gonna go ahead and make my length and use my tubing cutter to cut off the excess. And get it out of the way. We'll take the low pressure switch, I'm gonna go ahead and make a loop in my airline, to use up the excess and give us some mobility if we need to make adjustments later. Then we'll take the airline we just trimmed put it in the other side of the T for the low pressure switch. Firmly pressing it in, pulling back to lock it in place. Then our wire harness connector that we just trimmed off the excess airline, will go into the open terminal here on our low pressure switch. There. Now once we have a good connection we'll go ahead and take the excess airline . it's gonna get stored up underneath the dash. I'll just use some zip ties to secure our wiring and electrical wires. Now the remaining wire that we have is going to be the power wire for our compressor assembly. This power wire needs a 12 volt battery source, which on this application, the vehicle is equipped with a tow package, and it has a power wire here underneath the dash. We can use the quick splice connector to attach the compressor power wire to our 12 volt power source on the vehicle. The quick splice connector will slide onto the manufacturers wire. And we'll route the power wire in place. We can just follow the previously run wires and air hose, over to the 12 volt power supply. Slide the compressor power wire into the quick splice connector. Then I can crimp them down. Now once we make this connection, it will kick the power on to our compressor. Now that we've crimped down, we can go ahead and close the clasp. And then clean up the excess from our zip ties and clean up our install look. Now with everything installed, tested. We're ready to hit the road. And that'll do it for our review and install of the air lift load controller 2 compressor system for air helper springs, part number AL25592 on our 2008 Chevrolet Silverado 2500. .


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