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Air Lift LoadLifter Air Help Springs Installation - 2015 Ford F-250

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How to Install the Air Lift LoadLifter Air Help Springs on a 2015 Ford F-250


Today on our 2015 Ford F-250 Super Duty, we'll be installing the Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Air Helper Springs, part number AL57396. With our vehicle on flat ground, we'll go ahead and check the ride height measuring from the ground up to the bottom of the wheel well with our stock suspension and no weight added to the vehicle. We're sitting right at 41-3/4 inches. Now, we'll go ahead add approximately 2500 pounds of weight to the bed of our truck. Now with our weight added, the new ride height is right at 38-3/4 inches. We've lost ride at three inches of ground clearance with our weight added.

Now with our weight back in the truck and approximately 70 pounds of pressure on our bags 00:01:20, we're right back to our 41-3/4 inch mark. Now, to begin our install, we'll need to remove the jounce bumpers on each side. To remove them, there's a nut on top that holds the stud that goes up to the frame. For this application, it's already got a 5th wheel hitch installed. The wire harness fastener has already been removed. In cases where a fifth wheel has not been installed, it maybe necessary to pull the wiring harness connector out of the frame to gain more access to the top of the jounce bumper.

Here on the driver side, we'll also need to disconnect the electrical connector holding the wiring on the front side of the urea tank bracket. To do that, we can use a flat-blade screwdriver or if you have a trim panel tool to make it a little easier. Now with that out of the way and our jounce bumper removed, we have access to the manufacturer's oval hole that's above the jounce bumper fastener. For this particular application, the side bracket for the fifth wheel hitch does not have a hole in it. It will be necessary to drill out the side bracket to create enough room to install the hardware for the upper bracket of the new Air Lift system. Note, we'll be repeating the same process on the passenger side with the exception of we don't have any of the wiring in the way or the urea tank bracket.

Before we drill out the side bracket, we're going to go ahead and take the driver's side upper bracket and set into position. The upper bracket will line up with the small pre-drilled hole on the side of the frame and the oval hole in the side of the frame which we'll need to drill out our fifth wheel side bracket in order to install these fasteners. I'm just going to go ahead and set the bracket in place to check the inaudible 00:03:25. I'll mark out our points that will need to be drilled out. As I try to set in place, the upper bracket will not go completely into position as it interfered with the urea tank bracket. To gain some working room, we're going to go ahead and loosen the three fasteners that secure the bracket to the frame.

Now with the urea tank bracket loosen and out of the way enough that we can get our upper bracket in place. We'll take the upper bracket along with the 8 mm bolt that will hold the rear attachment point going through the bracket, then into the frame to the small hole here. Hold the bracket in place and use our paint marker to mark out the forward attachment point we'll need to drill through the fifth wheel side bracket. As I hold the upper bracket in place, I use my paint marker to mark out the side bracket. Once we have it marked, we'll go ahead and move the upper bracket out of the way. Now, to drill out the side bracket, we're going to use the step bit 00:04:40 process starting with a smaller pilot bit working our way up to our final size of 1/2-inch so that we can use the supplied 1/2-inch by 3-inch bolt of the flat washers and nut. Now with our hold drilled out for our half-inch hardware here, we'll need to drill out the hole here for our 8 mm bolt. The reason we're drilling it out is so that we go all the way through the side bracket to install the flat washer and nut. To drill it out, we'll again use a step bit 00:05:27 process. I'm going to start with my final size 11/32 to find my center point and then use a smaller pilot bit opening it up to the final size. Now with both holes drilled out, we're ready to install the upper bracket. For our four reattachment points, instead of using the 1/2-inch bolt, 1/2-inch long, we'll be using the 1/2-inch by 3-inch bolt supplied with the install kit, so that we go all the way through the fifth wheel side bracket. For the rear attachment point, we'll replace the 8mm bolt with a 55 mm long 8 mm bolt that is not supplied. We'll set our bracket in place and from inside, we'll install the 1/2-inch bolt and flat washer going through the bracket through the frame and then through the fifth wheel side bracket. On the outside of the frame, to secure that will be second flat washer and 1/2-inch flange 00:06:39 nut. As we install our fasteners, we'll just install them finger tight this time. For the rear attachment point, we'll take our new bolts and flat washer, again, going through the bracket, through the frame, and then to the pre-drilled hole in the side bracket. On the outside of the frame, we'll install a second flat washer and then the 8 mm nylon lock nut. Now, our upper bracket is held in position with our hardware. Next, we're going to move off the vehicle here and assemble the air bag. Starting with our air bag with this being the top, the two attachment points and a threaded portion for our air valve, and then the bottom will have just two threaded attachment points. We'll put the top roll plate in position. Indention of the roll plate will fit over top of the air bag and line up with the attachment points and the air valve. Next, we'll install the air valve. As you can see, there's a pre-installed sealant on the threads. We'll first thread it in finger tight and then per the instructions, go 1-1/2 additional turns. Next, we'll go ahead and set the air bag aside and bring it on a lower bracket. Here, we'll need to install one of the long carriage bolts inaudible 00:08:10 at the install kit and for the driver's side, we'll use the left side attachment point. Using the corresponding holes as per the instructions, our first and third will be for the driver's side. The second and fourth will be for the passenger's side to attach the lower bracket to the air bag. Now, we're ready to attach the lower bracet to the airbag. We'll take a second role place. Set it in position on the lower air bag, winding up the attachment points, then bring in our lower bracket winding it up with our pre-determined attachment points and secure it with a 3/8 bolts split lock washer and flat washer to the two attachment points securing the lower bracket to the lower portion of the airbag. Once we have our fasteners finger tight, we'll ago ahead and run them down to secure them. Next, we'll need to install the upper bracket to the bottom two attachment points. We'll use the shorter 3/8 carriage bolt. To the single upper attachment point, we'll use the longer carriage bolt. Quick tech tip, to hold these carriage bolts in place while we install this bracket on to the upper bag, we'll use a rubber band to hold them in position. Now, we can go ahead and line up the two attachment points with the top and the air bag. We'll use the same 3/8 hardware to secure this bracket as we did with the lower bracket. 3/8 bolt, split lock washer, and flat washer threaded into the air bag. Again, we'll just go finger tight until we have both fasteners in place. Then we can tighten them down. Now, because our bracket is bolted to the top of the airbag, the roll plate will hold the carriage bolts in position and we can remove the rubber band. We're now ready to take our air bag assembly and set it into position on the truck. Now, to give us some working room, we're going to go ahead and raise the body or suspension of the vehicle to create more distance between the frame and the jounce strike plate. Next, we'll go ahead and take our assembled air bag and put into position, noting that the long carriage bolt that we've already installed on the lower bracket will need to go between the brake line and the axle. As we set in position, we'll make sure we keep the hoses lined and wiring out of the way being careful not to pinch them. Here on the outside of our airbag towards the tire, that our longer carriage bolt will line up with the manufacturer's pre-drilled hole in the frame where we removed the jounce bumper. This carriage bolt is going to line up with that hole in the frame, so we'll first need to install this thick spacer block on to the carriage bolt. Then we can line up all three carriage bolts. On the inside, the two shorter carriage bolts will line up with the upper bracket we've bolted to the frame. Now for the two inside carriage bolts that will secure the two upper brackets together, we're going to use a flat washer on top along with the 3/8 nylon lock nut. For our outside carriage bolt that will secure the bracket to the frame, we're going to use a 3/8 flange nut. Now with the upper bracket hardware in place, we're going to go ahead and tighten it down using an almost exact reverse order of how we installed it. Now with our carriage bolts tightened down, we'll tighten down the two bolts that we have securing the upper bracket to the frame. Now with the upper bracket secured, we can go ahead and re-tighten the urea bracket fasteners. Now, we're ready to start installing the fastener and securing the lower bracket to the spring pack 00:13:49 and axle using the long 3/8 carriage bolt identical to the one we've previously installed on the back side of the lower bracket. We'll go ahead and install one here on the front side going down through the pre-drilled slot. Next, we're going to install an L-bracket on to the lower bracket. This will be part of the securing the lower bracket to the spring pack. Before we put this bracket in place and secure it with 3/8 carriage bolts, flat washer, and nylon lock nut, we're going to install a long 3/8 bolt into the bracket. That bolt will be accompanied by a flat washer. We'll go ahead and put our bolt in place. Now, we can set the L-bracket on to the top of our lower bracket. Lining it up with the slots in the lower bracket, we'll then go ahead put our carriage bolts in place. Securing the L-bracket to the lower bracket with a flat washer and 3/8 nylon lock nut. We'll just being installing these fasteners finger tight this time. Now, we'll go ahead and move to the back side of our lower bracket and install another L-bracket assembly identical to this one. Now with both L-brackets in place, we're ready to tighten them down. As we tighten them down, we'll make sure that the lower bracket is back against the manufacturer's U-bolt that will hold the L-bracket in place, tied to the U-bolt and lower bracket and tighten it down. Now with one done, we'll repeat the same process for the other L-bracket. Now with our L-brackets tightened down, we're going to install this spring clamp bar onto our long 3/8 bolt. This will fit on the outside of the leaf spring pack and secure the lower bracket tied to the leaf spring pack once installed. We'll secure each 3/8 bolt with a flat washer and lock nut. With the front side secured, we'll repeat the same process with the back side. With those 00:16:50 fasteners installed, we'll just leave them finger tight this time. Next, we'll install the lower axle clamp bar onto the long carriage bolts securing with a flat washer and nylon lock nuts. With our axle clamp bar in place, we're going to go ahead and tighten down the fasteners evenly. Now with those fasteners tighten down, we'll go ahead and torque them to specifications as indicated in instructions. The only functioning difference here on the passenger side versus the driver's side is going to be the upper bracket and how it attaches to the frame. On the driver side, we had two attachment points. Here on the passenger side, we'll have one attachment point to the frame. As it go over the oval hole in the side of the frame, once again, we'll have to drill it out through the fifth wheel side bracket. We're going to go ahead or remove the fasteners securing the exhaust hanger to the frame. This will allow some movement of the exhaust and make it easier to get a direct line to drill out our hole. There are two fasteners to remove the exhaust bracket, one on the inside of the frame and one below it. Now with my exhaust hanger out of the way, I'm just going to push the exhaust up enough that I can gain easier access to draw out the hole. It's the same step bit process that we did on the driver side to drill out our half-inch hole here on the passenger side. To secure the upper bracket with our fifth wheel side bracket into place, we'll use the longer half-inch bolt, thick flat washer that will go through the bracket. Then once the second flat washer go through the frame and then to the side bracket. On the outside, we'll install a half-inch flat washer and half-inch flange nut. We'll just install our fastener finger tight this time. Just like on the driver side with the upper bracket secured to the frame, we'll now move to our work bench and assemble the air bag. Now with both air bag assemblies installed, secured, and torqued to specifications, we're going to go ahead and cut off the excess length from the long 3/8 carriage bolt. To cut them off, you could use a hack saw, inaudible 00:20:19 saw, or any type of cut-off wheel. We'll go ahead and place the exhaust back into position. Next, we're ready to start installing our air line. We'll start by installing the inflation valve first. For this application, we're going to mount it here in the bottom of the manufacturer's 7-pole bracket. To mount the inflation valve in the bracket, we'll need to drill out some holes. We'll start with a smaller pilot bit and work our way up to 5/16. Now, to install our inflation valve, we'll first thread on a nut going down far enough to set the length that we want to stick out below the bracket. Then, a serrated washer inaudible 00:21:39 it over the hitch down through our pre-drilled hole, then we'll install a rubber washer, flat washer, and then another nut, and tighten it down. Once we've got the inflation valve secured, we can go ahead and install the cap. Next, we'll go ahead and start routing the air line. For this one, it will be towards the driver's side air bag. As I route the line, we can also secure it as necessary. Quick tech tip, in case any adjustments are needed to be made in the future, we left some of the excess air line curled up here behind the bumper. We'll simply going to go ahead follow the manufacturer's wiring here down the frame rail. Now we've got it routed and secure, we'll go ahead and cut it for length using our air line tubing cutter that will give us a clean square cut on the line. We're going to take the end of the line and route it into the inflation valve. We'll line it up with the end of the valve, press it firmly into place and pull back to lock it in position. Now with the driver side here secured and installed, I can cut off the excess zip ties to clean up the install inaudible 00:23:13 and repeat the same process for the passenger side. Now with both air lines installed and secured, we're going to move to the exhaust. Provided with our install kit is a heat shield to put between the exhaust tail pipe and the passenger side air bag. Because we'll need to go through the thickness of the resonator here in the tail pipe, provided with the install kit is a large and small clamp. We're going to combine the two together to make it long enough to get all the way around the tail pipe. Now both of them loosened, then go ahead and take the smaller one and feed it into the large creating one clamp. Put it around the resonator and tighten it up to take some of the excess out of it. Let's go ahead and let it sit for now. We'll repeat the same process the second two set of clamps. Now, both clamps are in position, we'll need to create tabs to secure our heat shield inaudible 00:24:26. We'll use the slotted tab here by bending it down and then flattening it back out to create air space between the heat shield and the tail pipe. We can also go ahead and curl the heat shield to form around the tail pipe. We'll go ahead and slide our heat shield into place and tighten it down while still keeping at least a one inch minimum clearance between the heat shield and the air bag. Now, we'll go ahead and cut off the excess from the clamps. Note, after you do this, it will create sharp edges where the clamp remains connected to the tail pipe. Now, with everything installed, secured and completed, we'll go ahead and check our new Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 system for leaks. We'll apply air to the inflation valve and air up our system. We're going to air up to about 50 or 60 pounds and then use a soap and water solution to spray our connection points to check for leaks. We're ready to hit the road. That does it for the install of our Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Air Helper Springs, part number Al57396 on our 2015 Ford F-250 Super Duty. .


Info for this part was:

Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Dustin K
Video by:
Dustin K
Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Nicholas E
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F

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