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Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Rear Axle Ultimate Air Helper Springs Installation - 2017 Ford F-150

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How to Install the Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Rear Axle Ultimate Air Helper Springs on a 2017 Ford F-


Rob: Hey, everybody. It's Rob here at etrailer.com. Today, we're going to be taking a look at the Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Air Helper Springs for the rear on our 2017 Ford F150.Now before we actually put our bags on, we'd like to take our truck out on a test course, get an idea of the baseline of how our truck handles and whenever we put a load in the back, as well. That way, whenever we do have our bags installed, we can take a really good test and have something to compare it to. We all know everybody wants to see them working, but we also know that you want to see how to get them installed. If you stick around at the end of the video, we are going to go through that process together.If you're looking for airbags for your truck, it's most likely because you either haul a heavy load in the bed of your truck, or you tow a trailer pretty often and most likely it's probably a pretty heavy load for a trailer.

We all know whenever you hook up a heavy load or a trailer to the back of your truck, the back end starts sagging. We get our uncomfortable ride and there's a lot of things that happen that really aren't that good for our truck or for our ride quality. But our airbags are going to help alleviate a lot of those problems because they're going to be back here supporting that load and not allowing the backend to drop down so far. That way our suspension can be where it's supposed to be, supporting that load. We can have a comfortable ride and we don't have to deal with all the symptoms that we get when we're towing a heavy load.Now, before we get too far along, I would like to take a measurement and get a baseline idea of where our truck is sitting in the back.

Right here, if I measure to about the center of the wheel well, our truck is measuring right about 41 and a half inches. Now you do need to keep in mind that our truck does have oversized tires, so your truck may not be at the exact same height. But we're looking for a difference here. At stock height we're at 41 and a half. If we move to the front, we can check the front as well.

The front's coming in right about 40 inches. Now we know the stock height of our truck. Let's go and take it on our test course, go over a few of bumps course and the slalom course and see how it handles without any weight and without the bags installed.I'm going to go over the bumps about five miles an hour, just so we have a nice baseline run. Now this is just going to be so we can compare it once we get a weight in the back of the truck and once we have our bags on. Obviously, our truck's going to drive pretty normal because there's nothing changed about it right now.

And honestly, the suspension is doing a pretty good job of what it's supposed to do. Don't get me wrong, there's bumps obviously, but it's a pretty normal feeling bump. It's not an overdramatic bump, it's not jarring through the seat because we still have the full travel of our suspension and it can do its job.Now as we come up to the slalom course, again, just going to be for a baseline run so we have something to compare it to. I'm going to be going in and out of the turns at about 10 miles an hour. Again, so we have something really good to compare it to once we put the weight in and put the bags on. Honestly, again, drives pretty much how you would expect it to, there's not any overdramatic body roll. There's a little bit, but it's a truck, it's not a sports car. But again, it's still pretty comfortable. It's again, what you would expect. I don't have any feeling of the truck leaning over real hard. There's not a lot of body roll, it's pretty controllable. It's not very loose, it's not very soft, right where you want it to be, pretty normal. But let's go ahead and add a load to the back and see how that affects how our truck drives.You can see we added a large amount of weight to the bed of our truck. Visually you can already tell that the back end is sagging down just by the gap in between the tire and the wheel well. If I take the same measurement from the center of the tire to the wheel well, it's actually dropped about two and a half inches back here. Now up front it's actually caused the front end to come up because it's acting like a teeter totter, pulling that back end down and stretching the front end up.Up front here, it actually went up about an inch. So there's a lot of different things that are happening once we add all that weight. The back end goes down. Again, we're going to have a rough ride, our suspension doesn't have as much travel as it should. Then up here, since the front end's being pulled up, we don't have all the weight on our tires, which means our steering is going to be diminished, our breaking is going to be diminished. Our tires are going to start wearing funny because once we start pulling that up, the camber and caster starts getting off. Our headlights are going to be pointing up at the sky. There's just a lot of different things that all add up and give us an uncomfortable ride and all those symptoms that we have when we're carrying a heavy load.Let's go ahead and take our truck back out on the test course with the load and see how it handles. Again, we'll go about five miles an hour over our speed bump course, just to keep that nice baseline. After hitting that first bump, it's pretty obvious that we have a pretty heavy load in the back. Even again, the front end is reacting a little bit different and there's definitely a lot more of a jarring feeling coming from the seat because every time the back end goes over, you really get more of a feel of the bump. It's a little bit more dramatic and it definitely has more of a loose feeling up front.Again, we're going to go about 10 miles an hour through the slalom course. I already have a feeling that going in and out of the turns does feel a little loose. It doesn't really feel like I have a whole lot of control because initially as I go into the turn, it doesn't really react. And then it starts to lean really hard. Part of it is because we have water in the bed so it's sloshing around, shifting the weight. But you could definitely feel all the weight transfer going back and forth, especially when you go through the turn as you come to finish it. It still wants to carry you into the turn. Just a very loose, mushy feeling, getting a lot of body roll. It just doesn't really feel like I'm in as much control as I would like to be.I went ahead and put that same load in the back of the bed and now if we measure we're just barely under the factory ride height and we have about 45 pounds in our bag. If we move up to the front, we can check to see if the front end has come up or if it's back to where it should be. Up here, we're right back where we should be, right back to that factory ride height. Now we know our truck is sitting where it should be, but let's see how it handles with the load and the bags in place.Again, I'm going to be going about five miles an hour over the speed bump course. As I come up to the first bump, surprisingly, a lot softer than when we had no bags in place. It's not quite at the place it was when there was no weight at all and it was just a factory ride. But this is much more comfortable and much more reactive. Once we get over the bump, I don't have to worry about the backend continuing to bounce and the front end feeling really loose.Again, on our slalom course I'm going about 10 miles an hour so we have something to compare it to that's really close. Even just these first couple turns can already feel a difference, especially in the body roll. Doesn't have such a soft feeling, so much body roll going on and much more responsive as I turn, it wants to turn. It's not so much of a leaning and then going into the turn. Even as we come out of the turn, it doesn't want to oversteer and I have to crank on the wheel to get it going back straight. It's a little bit more stable. Like I said, it's just a lot easier to drive and genuinely feels like it wants to go a little bit faster. Don't get me wrong, I realize the load's back there. I can feel it while I'm driving, but it definitely feels like a much lighter load than it is and it's definitely a lot easier to control.Overall, I think our bags definitely helped out. Definitely made me feel more comfortable driving. I felt more in control, it was definitely a lot more comfortable. Again, not exactly like the quality ride from the factory, but we did have a lot of weight in the back. We we're going over speed bumps and it was actually a really good ride considering all those things. But I do realize that a lot of people out there are wondering what the ride quality is going to be like when you have the minimum amount of air pressure in the bags and no load. So I wanted to take the time, we're going to take our truck back out on the test course to give you a good idea of what it's going to like to be riding in your truck every day without a load.So far, going over the speed bumps, it's a little bit stiffer than the stock ride, but not a whole lot. Mainly only whenever we go over really large bumps with the solid speed bumps. The alternating speed bumps aren't too bad. But again, the upside to having bags is because we need them for the support so a little bit, and I do mean a little bit. It's not a rough ride. It's not an uncomfortable ride by any means, but there's a slight difference if you expect your truck to ride exactly the same, it's not. There's a little bit of a difference, but I think the benefit outweighs the downside in this aspect.Let's see how it handles on our slalom course. Other than going in and out of the turns, I don't really notice a huge difference in the ride quality compared to the factory ride with no weight. Regular turns, body roll. It may help a little, but not enough for me to notice. I was mainly concerned more about the stiffness of the ride because of those internal jounce bumpers. But like I said, it's not enough that you're really going to dramatically notice it or have buyer's remorse. I still think it's a comfortable ride. If you like the way your F150 rides, it's not going to change that much with the bags. But realize that when you don't have any weight, it may be a little bit stiffer.Here's what our bags look like once we have them installed. They're going to fit right in between our axle and the frame so that whenever we do have a load, they're going to be there to help support it. Now, the nice thing about it is that we are going to have one spring on each side of the axle so it is not only going to help out support the heavy load back here, but it's also going to help with off center loads. A lot of us may have a trailer that we pull maybe heavier on one side, or maybe we have something in the bed that's heavier on one side. Well, the nice thing about it is, is we can put more pressure in one bag than the other and level it side to side and front to back.Our airbags are going to replace our factory jounce stops. Now our factory jounce stops are really only there to prevent the frame from hitting the axle. These aren't going to provide us any support because if they were, you can see how high they are from the axle and by the time they get down and actually touch, we've already lost several inches of clearance and the back end's already coming down. What's really going to make our bags stand out compared to other bags, is they actually have an internal jounce bumper inside the airbag. Now the good part about that is, is if in the event that we lose a lot of air from our airbag all at once, maybe we don't have enough air in there. We're not going to have to worry about the bag crushing in on itself and causing any damage because that internal jounce bumper is going to stop it before it comes down too far.Now the downside to that is there have been a few customers that let us know that said, "When you're not carrying anything, you're not towing anything and there's very light amount of air pressure in the bags, it does limit the amount of travel because we don't have this full amount because the bump stop is inside." So depending on where you live, the road conditions and everything else, it may stiffen it up a little bit.Our airbags are designed for heavy duty applications, like half ton, three quarter ton, and one ton trucks and even some motor homes. Now our bags are going to provide us with 5,000 pounds of load leveling support. Now keep in mind that doesn't mean that it's going to add 5,000 pounds to the payload of our truck. It's just going to help support that weight and give us a comfortable ride. So you do want to double check your Ford's owner's manual and never exceed the manufacturer's recommended weight.The way you're going to adjust your bags and adjust the amount of pressure you need, is through the manual inflation valves. We chose to mount ours here at the back at the bumper, because they're really easily accessible and we know which one's left and right. Now, one thing to keep in mind with airbags is that the main point of them is that we have the adjustability. If you've changed a lot of loads, or if you have several different trailers with different loads in them, it makes it really easy to get the type of support and the fine tuning down to get the truck riding the way you want. But something to keep in mind is that every time we change a load, we should be adjusting our air pressure to match that load. If you're carrying a really heavy trailer, you're probably going to want to have your bags up a little bit higher. And then if you drop that load and pick a smaller one, you're probably going to want to drop down some air.That's why I always recommend a compressor. An onboard compressor is going to make it a lot easier for us to fill or deflate the bags. We can do it from the comfort of our cab, and we don't even have to get out, lug around an air compressor, get the hose out and do anything like that. We're not even going to have to stop at the gas station or anything because all we have to do is control everything from the inside of our truck. My personal favorite compressor available for airbags is going to be the Airlift Wireless Compressor, because it is wireless and it's much easier to install. But it does a really good job of adjusting the bags, just making it really convenient for you.But now that we've seen what our bags look like, gone over some of the features, let's go ahead and go through the installation process together. To begin our installation, we're going to park our truck on a nice flat level surface. Now we're going to need to lift up the back end of our truck, but we want to make sure that we lift it by the frame so the axle and the suspension can hang down and have a little bit of room in between. Now we're using a drive on lift so we are going to have to come up with a different way to lift it up. We're actually going to be using a jack at the back of the hitch here so we can lift up the frame. But right now we want to move underneath and we're going to move right to the rear axle, right above it at the frame.Right above the rear axle on the bottom of the frame, we're going to have our factory jounce stop. There's a hole in the bottom of it. That's going to allow us to take a socket, go up through the bottom and unbolt it. I suggest using a small extension and a deep 13 millimeter socket. That way, we can come in, start loosening everything up. I will let you know it's pretty tight, but we're going to loosen up that bolt until we can get the entire jounce stop to come out.Once we have it removed, we can pull the jounce bumper down. This is not going to get re-installed. Now in your kit, you're going to have a black flange bolt. This is going to thread right into where we just removed the bolt for our factory jounce stop. Just want to get it started by hand, then we can grab a 15 millimeter socket. You want to thread this into where there's only about maybe a half inch sticking out of the frame. You just want to leave it hanging out just like that. Then we'll grab our upper bracket.Our upper bracket is going to look like this. One thing I do want to point out is if you look really closely, they are labeled, there's a part number, and you can reference your instructions to see which one's the left or right side, but they are labeled as well. There's an L stamped into the left bracket or the driver's side, an R for the right bracket. Now you're going to notice that we have a key way hole with a large hole and a slot. We want to lift our bracket up so that bolt we just put it in the frame, comes down to that key way, and we'll slide it to where it fits into that notch. These tabs need to be on the inside of the frame, and these two small holes need to be going towards the front. We can take our bracket and we'll lift it up and lock it into place. Again, we'll just line up that large key way and slide our bracket forward.Now, obviously we're not going to be able to get a socket in there because it's pretty close to that bracket. But what I suggest, if you get an open ended wrench, could be a ratcheting wrench, we can get it into this little notch right here and tighten it up. But as you're tightening, you just want to make sure that the bracket, these tabs on the inside of the frame are touching against it and they're nice and flush. This can be a little bit awkward, just because the bracket's trying to move around on you and you're trying to tighten it up at the same time. But like I said, we just want to get it nice and snug for now to where that bracket is going to sit at the bottom of the frame and have those tabs on the inside.Now, if we come down right below the bracket to the rear axle on the backside, towards the tailgate, we're going to have a bolt holding these brackets on that's got our ABS line and our brake lines. We're going to remove that bolt and move this bracket out of the way. We'll grab a 10 millimeter socket. We'll pull that bolt out. Just want to pull out just a little bit, just move that bracket. If we follow the lines over, we'll find a bracket that's attached to the axle. Now the ABS line is in a little rubber boot on that little notch that's coming out of the bracket. You want to pull that out so we have some slack and we can move everything out of the way.For now, I'm just going to move my ABS line so it's up towards this bracket and I can just hook the line inside. But if we look at our bracket that's on the axle here, you can see how it stops at that brake line and that little U shape is there. We actually need to get rid of this tab that's sticking out because it's going to interfere with our lower bracket that needs to sit in this general area. We need to cut this tab off and typically where that curve starts, if we just follow that straight down and we cut this section of it off, we should be able to fit our lower bracket in. But obviously we have lines and everything extremely close. So whatever you're going to use to cut this, you're going to take your time. You want to be careful and you don't want to nick anything else around here.I'm going to use a rotary tool with a cutoff wheel on it. But again, I just really want to stress that you need to be extremely careful because everything is very close to all the places that we're actually going to be cutting. Now you don't have to, but I always like to come back, put a little bit of spray paint on any exposed metal when I'm cutting. That way it'll just reduce any rust or corrosion from building up.We want to grab our lower bracket now, and we need to get this in place so we can mock it up and take a measurement. We need to measure the distance between the lower bracket and the upper bracket. Now the way that lower bracket is going to sit in there, is we have these two tabs. Those are going to go right around the leaf spring pack. And this is going to sit right on top of the axle. You can bring your bracket in. Since we got these lines right here, I'm going to come from the front side of the truck.Again, you just want to be mindful of all those lines that are there. But again, we want to take those tabs and they're going to line up with that hole. We're going to have one on the other side as well. We want to just get it loosely in place. Make sure it's lined up on both sides. May take a little bit of pulling and twisting. But once it's in place again, you want to measure from the top of the lower bracket to the mounting surface on the upper bracket.As you measure in between your brackets, you want to pay attention to what measurements you get. Now in your instructions, they're going to let you know that if the measurement in between these two brackets is between 6 3/4 and 7 1/2 inches, then you're going to need to use the included spacer. Now ours is less than that so we don't need a spacer and we're not going to be using it in our application.Just want to take our lower bracket off of our truck now that we have that measurement taken care of. Want to grab one of the carriage bolts out of our kit. And if you imagine that the bracket was on the truck right now, this is going towards the outside. Want to take our carriage bolt, and we want to drop it down through the forward hole in our lower bracket. Then we can take our bracket, we're going to flip it over. For now, we're just going to set this aside. We're going to grab our air spring and we want to start with the side that has the two holes, not three, just two threaded holes. We'll grab that, grab a roll plate. Again, line up the holes with the thread ones. Then we want to line up the holes on our lower bracket with the holes with our air spring.Now in your application, if you do need to use the spacers, you're going to want to make sure you put the spacer over the roll plate in between the lower bracket. Now since we're not going to be using that and we're also going to be using the short bolts. If you're using the spacer, you are going to use the longer bolts that have the shoulder on them. For each one of the holes I'm going to take one of our hex bolts, split lock washer and a flat washer. We want to get these loosely in place. Just enough to where everything will hold itself together, but we still want plenty of movement to where the bracket will slide back and forth.We can go ahead and flip our assembly over. We've got a carriage bolt coming down through the bottom and this time on top of the spring, we should have those two threaded holes and one that's protruding out with another threaded hole in it. That's where our inflation valve is going to go. We want to get it loosely started by hand, get it in there as tight as you can with your fingers. Then we're going to grab a 7/16 wrench and we want to tighten this up one and a half more turns. Just make sure that valve is pointing away from the mounting holes to make it a little bit easier to get everything in place.Now that we have the assembly put together, we want to either lift the body of the truck or allow the rear axle to hang down so there's more space in between that top bracket and the top of the axle. I'm going to use this pole jack to just lift up the back end so we have a little bit more room. Again, you can do it by lifting up the truck by the frame and just allowing the axle to hang down.We're going to lift our spring assembly in place. Just keep in mind that again, there's a lot of lines and everything else that's in the way. We just need to maneuver it in there. If you squish down on the airbag itself, you can let some of the air out and it will take up a little bit less space, but it is a pretty tight fit now that everything's put together. Just want to get that bracket lined up again where the holes in the bracket line up with those spring perch holes on both sides of the front and the back.Now that we have it loosely in place, want to take our bracket. We're going to line it back up to where all the holes will line up. And instead of using their factory bolt, we want to take the new bolt, there's a little notch on the end of it and that's actually going to help cut the threads for the bolt itself. We'll just line everything up. I'll get it started by hand. A couple of threads turned, we'll grab a 13 millimeter socket or a 1/2 inch socket. I suggest using a hand ratchet. That way we can tell how it's going in and we're not cross threading it, it's not getting bound up. We want to tighten this up to where it's nice and flush, and it's nice and snug against the spring perch.On the backside of the axle, if we look there's a small tab. It's got a square hole, just like the one we passed our carriage bolt through. Want to go ahead and grab another carriage bolt, drop it down to the bottom. Then we can grab our clamp and you'll notice that the profile's going to fit right at the bottom of the axle. There's a little curve there. We want it to sit like this. So we'll pass our bolts through the two square holes so it sits nice and flush against the bottom of the axle and we'll secure it down with a couple of flange nuts.For now, I'm just going to get these really loosely on there just by hand, just enough to where that saddle clamp's not going to fall off. To tighten it up, I'm going to be using a 9/16 socket. Whenever you do tighten up those carriage bolts, you want to alternate going back and forth so it doesn't get in a bind and go off to one side.Now we want to grab our upper roll plate. It's going to be the same for all of them, but we want to grab a roll plate and make sure that the airline fitting goes through the large opening right here. We can lift it up, make sure that it goes above the spring, but below the upper bracket. Again, just want to line it up so that that valve in the fitting comes through the roll plate. Then we want to very carefully lower the axle down just enough so that we can get the holes in the bracket lined up with the holes in the airbag itself. We're going to be using two of those 3/8 bolts, that same combination, to secure the bag. This time we're coming from the top of that bracket and we need to line up our holes in the bag so that we can it get going through.Now, usually what I do is I like to lower it down so there's just a very, very small gap, to where you can just barely move the roll plate. That'll give you enough room to shift the bag back and forth and move the roll plate so you can at least get a couple threads going and then you can really tighten down those bolts. I will let you know that it is a little awkward because it's nearly impossible to actually see. But the reason why you want that little bit of a gap, is so that you can move the role plate just enough so you can make sure that those bolts are lined up and you're not going to be fighting too much, trying to get everything lined up and the bolt started.Now we have a U bolt that we need to get in place, as well. This is going to go right over the top of the frame. Just want to be mindful of that electrical cable that you have running over on the driver's side here. We'll pass it over the top of the frame. Again, pushing everything out of the way, we're going to rotate it down. And on the upper bracket, we're going to have a couple of holes, you want that U bolt to go through each one of those holes. Going to have to watch your brake lines and that electrical, make sure it's not going to interfere and we can drop it down.You may want to pay attention to these brake lines. See if you can get the U bolt on the outside of them and push them towards the frame. Or if you want, you can put the U bolt more towards the inside, close to the frame and pull those brake lines away. We just don't want them rubbing and touching on those brake lines. We'll get it loosely in place. Each one of the legs on the U bolt is going to get one of these 3/8 flange nuts. I just want to get this in loosely in place so we know that U bolt is going to hold tight. Then we can come back and tighten it up.At this point, since everything's really loose and in place, we want to make sure that our bag is nice and straight up and down. Then we can come back and start tightening up all the hardware. All the bolts holding the brackets to the bags on the bottom and the top and those flange nuts that are holding the carriage bolts and U bolts in place. Each one of those is going to use a 9/16 socket. Just keep in mind, some of these bolts are hard to tighten down because of the location. So you may need to use an open ended wrench to tighten some of them down.With the bag loosely installed, you want to go back and double check your clearances, make sure you can at least get your hand in between the bag and any other component. The other thing you want to do is go ahead and take a few zip ties and secure all these lines and wires. Make sure they're not going to be rubbing against the bag. You can see I got one here, it's just pulling all those away from the bag itself. See these lines right here, attached to this bracket, then I zip tied my ABS line to that hard brake line here so it's not just dangling.Then on the front side of the axle, we have our E brake cable. It actually runs underneath the leaf spring. Well, it was rubbing against the bottom of this plate and even though it wasn't actually touching the bag, I didn't like the idea of it rubbing there and sitting on there, so I just took a zip tie and zip tied it to the carriage bolt against the axle. That way it still has movement, but it's not going to be running into the airbag itself.Now, you're going to want to go ahead and install the passenger side airbag now. It's going to install exactly the same way. There's just a few things we don't have to worry about. All those ABS lines and as much over here, it's just going to be a mirror image of the driver's side. Once you have that in, then we can get ready to start running our airlines and mounting the air inflation valves.We want to grab our airline. Now, it already has pre-installed inflation valves on there. So the best thing I always suggest, just find both ends, put them together and we're going to run our hand down till we get to the other end and that'll let us know right where the center is, or at least close enough. Now, whenever you do cut an airline tube, you want to make sure you make an extremely clean, straight cut. So I'm going to use a pair of tubing cutters and this'll help prevent any kind of leaks when you do go to put them in place. But obviously, one line will go to each side. You want to have an idea of where you're going to mount your inflation valves. In ours, we're going to be mounting ours by the license plate, but we're going to get our lines into the airbags and then we're going to route them that way.To get the line installed, you're going to take the line and we'll come to the fitting and want to put it into the fitting. It's going to bottom out a little bit and you want to push until it's fully seated in there. Then grab it, give it a quick tug. It shouldn't come out, but if for whatever reason you do need to take it out, there's a little ring on the end of the inflation valve. If you push the airline tube in, hold that ring back, you should be able to release the airline tube and take it out. But again, just want to make sure it's all the way seated. It does have a little bit of a give where you'll push it in. It'll kind of stop, but then you really want to push, make sure it bottoms all the way out.We'll do the same thing for the other one. Again, we'll start routing it towards our license plate. Just want to stay away from any major heat sources like the exhaust or any moving parts that may damage your airline tube.Over here on my driver's side, I started routing my airline tube towards the back. Once I got past all these brake lines and that bracket, I went over the cross member here. Then I just started running a line following these existing wires until I came back right at the back of the bumper. Now I always like to leave the end of the airline real loose because once we get the inflation valve mounted, we can typically just coil it up and tie it up high enough to where it's not going to interfere with anything. That way if we need to reroute any lines or make any changes or anything in the future, we still have extra line.Now on the passenger side here, you can actually see I routed my airline tube going through that opening on the bracket. That's mainly because we have a dual exhaust system on our truck and it's extremely close. So I wanted to get that airline as far away as possible. I started routing it towards the back and then right about here where our exhaust hanger is, there's a really small gap. I used that to run my zip tie through, and then I ran my airline tube up and over the cross member. Then again, just started routing it towards the back, leaving all the excess loose at the back of the bumper.Here we are at the back of the bumper. Now again, I want to mount our inflation valves pretty close to where the license plate is. To give you a rough idea for reference, our trailer wiring's over here and then we have that little plug and trap door that allows us to get our spare down. I'm going to put both my inflation valves right below that, but there's a metal bracket here. Fortunately for us, there is an opening right below that. So I'm just going to put both my inflation valves right in this opening and I'm going to try to keep them as close together as I can. But also just keep in mind, we want to make sure we have enough room to actually get a air chuck onto the valve so you should make sure you space them out far enough. I'm going to be using a 5/16 drill bit and I'm just going to drill. And fortunately, again, if you go in this center opening, this is just plastic. So we don't have to worry about drilling through metal if you go inside this bracket and stay away from the metal itself.Now we can take one of our inflation valves. I'm going to take the small hex nut that comes in our kit. We're going to screw through that all the way onto the bottom. Once it bottoms out, take a star washer, slide that over. We can pass it through. Once we have the valve coming through, we want to grab one of the rubber washers, slide it over the valve. It'll definitely help keep it in place. Keep it from falling back through. We'll take a flat washer and then finally follow it up with another hex nut. Now you want to tighten this down where it's nice and snug. Usually you can do it by hand, but if you need to, you can grab a 1/2 wrench and socket and snug it up. Just want to make sure you have enough of that valve sticking through so that when you put an airline chuck on there, it can actually fill the valve up. Again, we don't need to really crank on it. We just want to make sure that it's snug and it's not going to work its way loose.The other valve is going to work the same way. Just pay attention to where the valves are and which side the airline's on because obviously we want the right side valve to go to the right side bag.Now at this point, we want to take an air chuck and we want to put air in both one of our bags, because we're going to be checking for leaks. You don't need to max them out, but you do want to put a decent amount of air in the bags. Once you get some air in your bags, you want to get some soapy water and we're going to spray down the fittings, the bag, and any connection point where we're going to have air coming through and may potentially have a leak. What we're going to be looking for is little bubbles that are expanding. Now obviously, there's some little bubbles because it is soapy water, but right where the hose meets the inflation valve, that's pretty common place for it to leak. You're looking at those expanding bubbles that keep coming and popping and more and more expand. Because that means the air is pushing on that soap and creating those bubbles. We don't have any bubbles over here, but we're going to continue to spray down the rest of our system and check for leaks.Once you find out that you don't have any leaks, you're ready to hit the road. What I do recommend if you're not going to be towing though, is that you lower the air pressure down to about five PSI rate, or a minimum of five PSI. That way we can at least have a comfortable ride and we don't have so much air in the bags making it stiff.But again, I'm Rob here at etrailer.com. That'll finish up your look at the Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Air Helper Springs on our 2017 Ford F150.


Info for this part was:

Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Joshua S
Video by:
Joshua S
Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee David F
Installed by:
David F
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G

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