bing tracking image

Air Lift Air Helper Springs WirelessAIR Compressor Installation - 2022 Ford F-250

content loading

Customers compare AL58WQ to these similar products




Products Featured in this Video



How to Install the Air Lift Air Helper Springs WirelessAIR Compressor on a 2022 Ford F-250


Hi there Ford owners. Today your 2022 Ford F250 super duty. We're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install airlifts wireless air compressor. And this is what our compressor system looks like when it's installed. You install it. You typically underneath the vehicle and it comes with a lot of different mounting options so you can attach it to the frame and attaching it to the frame gives you a nice secure mounting point that also keeps it in a good proximity.

So we can get our hoses routed to our bags as well as kind of putting into the central location. So we can get our wires routed up to the front, to make the whole system operate. One of the things that I really like about this system is that is completely wireless. So that means we don't have to run any controls inside the cab. There's a lot of other systems out there where you gotta run like a gauge set on the inside.

So you can see your pressure and you have actual manual controls that will send the air back to your bags and whatnot. Those are significantly more difficult to install. You got a lot more hoses to run. There's a lot more wires to run, and then you gotta find the location that you can fit this pretty large unit on the inside for one of those. With these wireless one, we don't have to put anything in the cabs.

Everything's much cleaner looking on the inside just completely factory. And we're able to keep all the wiring here on the outside and for the most part, just follow factory wiring throughout the whole thing. So it really minimizes how much modifications and things you have to do on the vehicle. So I, I really recommend this one. This one's also a dual path compressor, which is really nice.

That means that we can have two different outputs at the common setting for this is to have one set for the left bag and one set for the right bag. And that way you can compensate for uneven loads on the left and the right, but one of the cool things about this is if you had airbags in both the front and the rear, you could set it up to act as a dual path where one is the front, both sets of bags in the front and one is for both sets of bags at the rear. So you get a lot of cool options and flexibility with a dual path compressor like this. One other thing that's kind of need that you potentially could do with this. If you do some, some work, maybe you do some little bit of like service and you need a little bit of compressed air, maybe to air up a tire or something. If you're like going to help somebody replace a tire on the side of the road, if you do things like that, you could set up a single path for both of your bags at the back, and then you could take the other path and run it to an air tank. So you could have an air tank now this is not gonna be enough of a compressor for like a home compressor system where you're gonna be running an impact off of it or anything but you could definitely use it to air up a tire, maybe for a blow gun to blow out some stuff. You could definitely run some minor tools off of a tank with it. But again, just keep that in mind. You're not gonna be running anything anything major. So don't expect to get out a diagram or something and get work done with this. But again you can do some of the, some of the air up things that, and that could really come in handy. If you're in a remote spot and you have an issue that occurs. So with a quicker look, this is the full unit here as it comes assembled, just like this, but let's give you a quick breakdown of the parts that you see here. So of course you get your bracket here that encases everything. And that's super nice that everything is all in one. Some of the other ones you have to mount each component individually, and this drastically reduces the installation time. By having it all here. Attached inside of our bracket assembly here, you've got your compressor, which is located here. You can see there's the inlet, which goes up to an air filter. So that way we get nice clean air coming in. So it doesn't damage our compressor. And we try to put that up as high as we can to prevent any kind of moisture from getting drawn into the system. The box that's located here just outside of our compressor is our control unit that has the relay block inside that will control the output of the air from the compressor to the bags. And this is also where our wireless modules going to be located inside of here. So that way you've got your Bluetooth connection. That'll occur with this. So here at the back of the vehicle, we have our manual inflation valves and these, this came with the airbags that we're installed on it. What's cool about this compressor kit is that you will be able to maintain it the functionality of your manual inflation valves are both the left and the right side. You get two, two independent inflations that works with your dual channel compressor. So that's really cool. A lot of times when you get a, a compressor and you install it, you don't get a tee fitting or anything with it that, and then if you don't have a tee fitting, you have to eliminate some sort of connection somewhere and usually it's your manual inflation. Another thing that's nice since this compressor is dual path, we can maintain two separate individual manual inflations for each side. A lot of times your compressor is only gonna be a single path. And that means it's gonna inflate both the passenger and driver bag at the same pressure that that removes the ability to have manual dual path because the compressor is hooking them together. So once the compressor hooks them together, that makes it so both of these are going to inflate both bags the same. They're not going to be independent. So since this is a dual path compressor, we get to keep that independent manual inflation. And, and that's probably not gonna be that useful for most situations, 'cause you got a compressor on here, but there could be some situations maybe a fuse blew, you're doing some modifications something happened, you got something disconnected, a battery dies, whatever else might happen. You have that option to grab just your regular arrow hose and air those up. And here you can see the tee fittings that come in the kit. This, these are the lines coming from the compressor here. So you can see that they do go to a fitting. This goes back to that manual inflation and this will head onto the bag. Same thing with this one. This will go to the manual inflation that goes to the bag. So it's cool they included those. A lot of the compressor systems used to not come with these. So if you wanted to maintain that, you'd have to purchase this separately and you might not have thought about it at the time you go to install your compressor and you're like, wow, me, I really wish I could have kept my manual inflation, but not have to order this part so, they've included it to make things, to just make your full installation, just a better installation in general, giving you everything you need. And our compressor system has an output between 5 and 100 PSI, which is perfect for these airlift bags that we've got installed here because these bags operation is between 5 and a 100 PSI. That means we're gonna get the full range of load assist that our bags can provide with our compressor without having to get to any kind of external air source. The entire system is controlled through the wireless air app that you can download on your Android or Apple device. And you can connect to it via Bluetooth. And then you can make all of your adjustments here. You can see that our little arrows give us independent side adjustments and the big one gives us adjustment for both bags at the same time, you have presets here that you can choose for various trailers that you might have. And you can also update the firmware for your system here as well. Most of the other things in here really aren't all that useful. You get some information about Help, not too much going on really in the Settings or anything like that. So, but you do get full functionality of your, of your bags, right from the device here. You can also pair multiple devices to the app. So if you've got two trucks, maybe you run a fleet and you've got a, a bunch of trucks and they are all equipped. If we go here to Devices, well it would come up with a number on there and right there, there's our number. So you could, you could use this number to tie that to the truck that has that installed so you know which one is for which truck. So that we've covered some of the features of the app and of our system here, I would say this is probably one of my favorite compressor systems. The installation process is dealt by far one of the easiest with everything being integrated into the one bracket that just has everything there. The harness that it comes with is perfect is the amount of length of wire you get. I've never had an issue with this on any truck. I've put it on having enough wire to reach my compressor, even when I install a little bit further towards the rear, there's plenty to get up to the front. And if I run it down the wrong side and the battery happens to be on the other side, I've always had enough wire to run over to the other side as well. The instructions are pretty well laid out, so that's nice. It has only three wires for the most part that you need to hook up here at the front. There's a couple you going to hook up at the compressor right there, but that's five total. So there's really not much on the installation side. You get tee fittings with it for your bag. So it's got that included. So you get to keep manual inflation I mean, it just kind of comes with really about everything. There are some compressors that do have a little bit higher output. I believe Firestone's got 150 PSI compressor system. I personally don't like the operation of the Firestone one is nice as the airlift one. This one seems to be more friendly, the app seems to respond better. The like the remotes and stuff that come with the other one that just seems to have a lot of delay with the Firestone. This one just seems to be more responsive, seems to airup a little faster, but this does limit you to a 100 PSI where Firestone does have that 150 available if you need those super heavy duty airbags and that, and that kind of pressure to use those heavier duty airbags. But beyond that I would say for most people, this is gonna be the best option for you. Well, we get our installation here on the driver's side of the vehicle. We need to Mount our main unit and in order to do this, you've got a couple of different options and I've got those laid out here for what you get in the kit. You have some self-tapping bolts here, and this is what we're going to be using today. But you also get a clamp which was what I normally use in most cases. But unfortunately on our Ford here, the frame is a bit too thick and the clamp doesn't fit over it, so we're not gonna be able to use the clamp. You also get some nuts and bolts if you wanted to just drill some holes and, and bolt it right through a piece of metal. So we're, we're gonna go with this option, the self-tapping option. You're gonna need a quarter inch drill bit, to drill out the holes. And when you do this, you'll just take your unit and just find a pop place where you want to put it. And we've chosen right here. It's right underneath the driver's side rear door. The wiring kind of goes up a lot of the way and we can go right down below our brake, parking brake cable there, and we just hold it up we'll mark the holes on each side, and then we can drill those out with a quarter inch drill bit. I already went ahead and drilled them out, in our locations there. And you can see how I just marked it with a paint stick here. And after that, we'll just run our self tapping bolts in. What I like to do before putting the unit up there and running it through. After drilling the holes, I like to run the self-tapping screws in just like this. And then back out, what that does is it makes the threads and the, the frame there for your unit this makes it a little bit easier to install it while hold, trying to hold this thing up here. It's not super heavy but it's a little bit awkward you know, if you're trying to get a bolt started and there's no threads that way we can make threads and get the bolt started. And I already did the same thing on this other hole so I'm just thread that in there. There we go. And that way the weight's kind of being supported by those bolts. All right. And we used a half inch socket to tighten down these self tapping screws. All right, so now that we've got our unit mounted up, we need to start wiring it in and getting our hoses run for our airbags. So that's where we're gonna start is we're gonna start with the hoses from the airbags. We're going to route the, the lines from here to there. You are gonna wanna use a, a set of hose cutters with these so that way you can cut it properly to get a nice square cut to work with the quick connect fittings here on the unit. So this is the airline hose that comes in your kit, and here's a set of hose cutters I just wanted to show you why you want to use it. If we look at the end of this here, it's not very clean and it needs to be clean and square to seal properly. So I'm gonna cut it wrong just to show you what an incorrect cut would look like. And we can see it's kind of got an angle there, it's kind of bent. We want to have a nice clean square cut so, we're gonna go perpendicular to our blade and then it just glides right down through it. And you can see how clean that cut is there and it's a nice 90 degree angle to itself so that's going to seal properly inside of our unit. So we can go ahead and poke this into the fittings and then route our lines back. So here we have our two lines I didn't pretty much cut the lines in half that comes into your kit, because you're gonna have to run two one for the passenger side and one for the driver's side. So I've already gone ahead and cut those and then I routed them I taped the one for the passenger side so that way I know when I get over here, which side is the passenger side. So if you are gonna do that I do recommend kind of just tape them just so you can easily identify the line. We're going to poke the passenger side line into the top quick connect fitting, and after you poke it in there I always like to give it a pull to make sure that it's fully seated it's not gonna come out of there. And then we'll take the other line that we're routing for the driver's side and poke that one in there. After we've kept those lines poked into there we're just going to route them towards our bags now. And what we do is we come out of here, we turn up right here and then here's our factory harness here. We just zip tied to that factory harness and just follow this harness going towards the back. It does kind of go behind here a little bit so we did it to poke it behind there. There wasn't quite enough room for me to fit both of the lines in there. So I went one of them when I went through, I actually brought it right back out and just zip tied it here and then went back in and that'll be fine as well. And then they just kind of go over top of the frame they come down about right here, cause we need to get by this thing here. So that's why they come down and then we just go down the side of our fuel tank there to get over towards our bags. So here we are now underneath the vehicle, and this is the axle going across, this is our driver's side bag, there's the fuel tank and here's the lines that come around the side of the fuel tank where we had run them. The passenger side line we connected right in to the airbag here using the T that comes in our kit. And this is the passenger side airbag over here. And this is our driver's sideline here, I haven't hooked this one up yet so I can show you how to hook it up. So for this one to hook this one in the first thing you want to do is if you have air in your airbags, you wanna drain all that air out. You can just take a screwdriver and push it into the fitting your air fitting to drain the air out of it. It that way when you go to cut these lines, it's not gonna puff air at you, which could potentially be dangerous depending on the pressure. So now we've got, we've drained the air out we know this is our driver's side line. We're going to be adding our T right here into the driver's side airbag, as this line just goes up here and it goes right down into the airbag so that way you can identify this is the driver's side bag. So we're gonna come up here with our hose cutters. And it's important that this is also cut nice and square. You can then take the T that comes into your kit, and we're just going to clip it into one side. Make sure it pokes all the way in, grab our other side, poke it into that side. And again, we need to make sure it's all the way in there. There we go. That was it again, tie it just like we did at the other side to make sure that they're not going to come out. That all looks good and I will just get roughly the length of hose and that we need here to make our connection. And that looks pretty good about there. So we're going to bring our cutter up here perpendicular to the line, make our cut, and then poke this into this quick connect fitting. There we go. All right. So now we on both of our lines hooked up here and I did zip tie these along the way you get zip ties in your kit. So you wanna make sure you keep everything secure and out the way from anything that's moving or excessively hot. I like, so I always like to follow factory wiring if you can, just zip tie it to that factory wiring, because that factory wiring's already routed in a way that's going avoid anything that's going potentially damage it. So we're good here. We can head back to our unit now and start wiring it up. So now we'll take our harness that comes in our kit it's going to have a connector on the end here. That's going to plug into our unit. So we're just gonna plug this right in here, press in the lock tab to lock that in place. And this is gonna wrap up towards our engine compartment. So we're gonna follow factory wiring for that as well we do have another connection we need to make here on the other side of our unit, before we continue going forward, our brake line's right here. So we want to avoid anything because this moves when the, when the driver applies the parking brake, it'll move this cable we don't want to rub it on our wire. So there's a hole on top of the unit right here from the bracket. We can use the zip tie and go through there to pull this wire down to keep it away from that line. So now if we follow our harness down here, we did zip tie it up here to the factory wiring, but you'll see you have a black and a red wire that's coming off of it. That's not too far from where our connector was and that'll lead us right here, basically just to the other side of our unit. We have a black and a red wire here coming off of the unit so we can hook these up. I twisted them just to help keep them together it's not necessary. That just helps keep things a little cleaner. And we're just going to hook red to red and black to black. So you have, you'll notice you have a, a ring terminal on here and a spade connector, we're just going to cut those off and just crimp them directly to the other lines. So we're just going to come in here remove that, remove that. We can then strip these back. And we're gonna strip back the wires on the other side that we're going to be connecting them to. Now that we've got them both stripped, we can start making our connections. And again it's just going to be color for color, red to red, black to black. All right and now we can take our heat gun and shrink those down. All right, and so the next thing we're going to do before we finish routing the wire forward and stuff, while we're down here we might as well install our filter, save us a little bit of leg work. This filter here will eventually connect to this barbed fitting here coming out of our compressor. You'll get this fitting in your kit and that'll thread onto the filter. That just threads right on there. And then you'll also get some more airline in your kit. This one's a little bit different it says PU-TUBE quarter inch. It's a little bit more flexible than the other line that we had run for the airbags. This is a little bit lighter duty of a line. And with it being more flexible, it's easier to push on here. So now that we know where the line's going to go, we need to figure out where we're going put this. Ideally, we want to put this as high as we can get it up. So we're going put this close up here to the bottom of the frame of the vehicle as we can or the bottom of the body I mean. And if you look it's got a end here that we can poke into a hole. We're going to have to drill our own hole. We're gonna use a three eighth drill bit to do so. And we're gonna put it pretty close to this unit here, just up as high as we possibly can. And this kind of crossmember section here is a great candidate for us to put a hole in. There we go, we got our hole drilled. Double check our component will fit in here. It's a little bit tight, we might want to step up our drill bit size just a little bit more. So here you can kinda see the grooves it wasn't quite making it past squeezing this in just yet. So we're going to step it up probably just move up one size on our bit maybe two sizes and then we'll try pushing this back in there okay. There we go and that clicked, right in there that should hold well. We ended up going to a 1330 seconds, which is two sizes up. If you're going in 64 increments from our three eighths. All right, now we've got mounted we're just going to push our hose on there. I'm using a little bit of silicone spray to make it easier. Another thing you can do to make it even easier is you can get some fairly hot water and stick this down in it to warm it it up and make it a little bit more malleable. If you're still having trouble, Then you don't need to have it all the way pushed up on there. As long as you get, you know, a couple of the barbs on there, that'll be good to go. So that's fine right there. And then we're going to tuck this around the factory wiring here to keep it away from that parking brake cable there's something like that looks pretty nice. And then that should be plenty of wire there to make our connection. So we'll trim off the excess and we're using these special cutters once again to give us that nice clean cut. That just makes it a lot easier to push onto these barbs. It's not as critical as it is with the quick connects, but it does make it a little bit easier on you. Okay. And now we have our filter hooked up. All right. We've pretty much wrapped up everything here. As far as our connections at the unit and at our airbags at the back, we just gotta start going forward now. So we're taking our harness and we're gonna follow this factory wiring all the way forward. Just zip tie it along the way you can use those zip ties that come in your kit and just keep on following, following, following. Once you get here to your fender liner you can just kind of peel this out some, and we just poke it right up on top of here and zip tie it to there. This is close enough right here that we can reach down from inside to grab this and pull it back up the rest of the way. So we're on the driver's side here, we're now on the engine compartment, I was able to just reach down and grab that wire and pull it up. And then we went ahead and zip tied it. And ran it across. I did drill a hole here and here to be able to pass a zip tie through on this plastic lip that runs across just so I keep my wires up away from the engine. And then once we get across to the other side, there's a factory harness on the other side that we're able to zip tie it to, to continue it on towards our battery. And over here is we're gonna finish making our connections. We've got our three wires here to connect to our battery as well as our trigger wire for our ignition source, which we can get from our fuse box right there. So now we're gonna, we'll start by hooking up our ground since that's the first one right here. So we'll separate out the black wire that's our ground. We'll come back to those guys here in a minute. We're going to hook right to this stud right here. So we can go ahead and get rid of some of our excess. I always like to keep a little bit of excess. So we'll do something like that, just so we got something to work within the future and we'll trim off the rest. We can go ahead and strip this back. And on the end of our wire here, we're going to place a ring terminal. This comes in your kit. So you can slide that on there and crimp it down. There we go. And now we'll make our connection to our battery post here so grab a 10 millimeter socket and you can zip the nut off here. We lift up on our nut, take our ring terminal, slide it into place. And then reinstall the nut. There we go that's our ground connection made. Now, we're not going to do the same thing with our positive wire but we are going place a fuse harness in line first before we connect it so that way it's not correct connected directly to positive. So we'll go ahead and prep our fuse harness here. One side's going to get a ring terminal and the other side's going to get just a regular old heat shrink butt connector. Both of those come in your kit. And you may or may not want to strip back a little bit more. They come pre-stripped like that. I was able to just pull it off but I think I'd like to have just a little bit more wire poking out there. We can slide it into our ring terminal. Clip it down. And then over here on the other side, very similarly, stripped back just a little bit more And now we're going to place heat shrink protector on this. So now we've got our fuse harness prepared here. I like to attach the fuse harness to the battery first, that way I can determine an appropriate amount of wire to leave that we've, that we've routed here. So we're going to go ahead and zip off that stud nut right there with our 10 millimeter once again, Once we remove the nut, we are simply going to slide our prepared harness right on top, and then reinstall the nut. And then we can kind of give that a little bit of a bend there, bring our excess over. So after we kinda line it up we can see that this is a pretty decent amount of wire right here. We'll trim off the excess. We can then strip back our red wire here. And we're going to crimp it right into our fuse harness here. All right. And then we'll take our heat gun and shrink down our buck connector. And now, lastly we need to hook up the pink wire, which is our ignition source signal to the system to let it know hey, you've turned the key on you started your vehicle. That way it wakes up it double checks its pressures and it adjusts as necessary because if it was like here in Missouri, it can be 61 day and 32 the next, and then back up to 60. That 32 degree day, the air pressure's gonna go down inside of your bags and everything else because pressure goes down when temperature goes down. So that way when you got in and turned it on the wire here would send the signal out, let it know what's going on and the system can pump itself back up. Cause it probably lost a couple of pounds cause there's such a huge drop in temperature. So we're going to hook it into a fuse its located here inside this fuse box that is powered on only when the ignition's turned on so, so we can open up our fuse cover here to access our fuse press in on the tab, lift up on it and then the back of it, we're going to pull the whole thing off. It just kind of, if you push towards the rear a little bit and then lift up, it'll pop off these little tabs here on the back side, right there. And then we can get that completely out of the way the fuse we're going to access is the 5 amp fuse located here. When you tap into a fuse, it's important you know which side of the fuse is the power side of the fuse. And you can check that with a test light by just poking down into the fuse slots there, turn the ignition on and see when the light lights up. I've already checked it. I know it's the rear pin here. The one towards the rear of the vehicle is the one that's hot. You have to pull the fuse in order to check it because if the fuse is in there, it's gonna pass through the fuse. You're going to get a reading on both sides of the fuse. So we know it's the rear one that's the side we need to make sure we put our fuse tap on. So here's the tap that comes in into your kit. It's got a spade terminal on top and a small slit with some 90 degree bends in the bottom. This is designed to fit around the fuse. So we're going to grab our fuse slide one of the legs through just like that. And that way we've got our spade terminal on top to attach to the leg that we put this on is our hot legs. We need to make sure when we reinstall the fuse, you've got it in the correct orientation for that to be hot. Lets poke that down in there it may or may not need to use a pair of pliers to hold everything together while you're working with it. There we go. We are inserted. Now we can take our fuse harness here. We can pull these back and actually did a nice job there stripping as there's plenty there to access. We may actually have to remove some of the material here. Yeah, we're gonna actually remove a little bit cause we don't want to have any exposed wires sticking out the back. So this time we're going to trim a little bit off of our fuse harness. So we've got less there. Here we go. And we'll crimp this down and you do get two different spade terminals in your kit you have a big one and a small one. We're using the smaller one. The bigger one's kind of going to have a more a little bit more transparent blue color to it too. This one's definitely more opaque. So now that we've got our spade terminal on there, we can go ahead and put a heat shrink butt connector on the other side. Now I get the feeling. This is going to be the same here. We're probably going to have to trim a little bit off, but let's just take a look here. The heat shrink butt connectors do have bigger sleeves on them. So we may not need to, eh, cut it a little close so we're gonna turn a little off And then we'll slide our butt connector on and crimp it out. Our spade terminal here we can attach our harness too. And what I'm actually, I'm going to pull that off of there. What I think I'm going to do before that we need to clear our cover here. So I think we're going to put probably like a 90 degree bend in this. So we're going to hold here, grab here and see if we can't get a bend out of this so we can more easily clear our, our lid when we reinstall it. All right so, we we're able to get a little bit of a bend out of it there. I would've liked to have gotten more, but you do need to be careful that when you're bending this, you don't squeeze and crimp down the interior so, you're not going to be able to install it if you damage the end so, that'll probably that'll be good enough. We're gonna have to remove some material to let this pass throughout the side anyway, I'm just trying to minimize how much material we have to remove from the lid. So now that we've got that on, we can go head and trim out our lid to fit. So we're just going to kind of set this up here. Looks like it's going to be about right there, that we need to trim. So there we went ahead and notched out for our fuse harness there that'll click back on right over top of it. Again, I always like to have a little bit of excess on my wire, so we're going to probably do something like this, cause it doing it like this too can help if any moisture gets in here, it'll run down the wire and drip off. Help prevent it from getting inside of there. And then we'll probably run it over about like that. We'll trim off that there strip back our pink wire. All right. And now we'll just grab our heat gun once again and shrink that down. All right so now we've got all of our connections made. We just need to install our fuses, the larger 15 amp fuse that comes into your kit its going to go over here on the battery connection harness. And you heard the pump kick on there when we plugged in the harness so, that's a good sign. And now we're gonna plug in the ignition source fuse into the harness over here so that we've got that there. And at this point now we need to download the app for our phone so we can pair through Bluetooth to our device so we can control it. All right so, we've downloaded the app here. This is the Air Lift WirelessAIR app. So make sure you've got this app. This is the only one that's going to work with this system. So now we've got it downloaded depending on how long it took you to download this. Once you insert the fuse here into your system, that puts it into pairing mode and it's only in pairing mode for about 5 minutes. So if it took longer than that to download the app, you just need to pull the fuse out and then reinstall it to re initiate the pairing procedure. So we're just going to go ahead and do that. I'm pretty sure it took me longer than five minutes to get the app downloaded. There we go, we pulled it out we reinstalled it, that will re-initialize our pairing process. So then we can go up to Devices here and it's searching for nearby devices, but we've got one that popped up right there. It's going to be ours so we're going to go ahead and click it say and then it requests a pair. We're going to go ahead and tell it to go ahead and pair and there we go. We've got our display. And when we put the fuse in, you heard it probably kick on a minute ago when I we first installed it, the system automatically sets itself to 5 PSI on both bags. So there it is, it is up to 5 PSI. Let's go ahead and see if we can make it operate. You can control each one individually with the, the left or the right with the smaller arrows or both at the same time with the larger middle arrow, we're just going to jump it up to about 10 pounds and see what it kicks on and it, and it airs it up. There, it goes, our compressor is running and boy it's quick. We're already at 10 pounds. So that was pretty fast. So if we look down here at the bottom, you do also some presets, this is straight out the factory. You've got 5, 20, and 30. You can adjust those as you want. There's a setting over here so you can change the presets. You can name it whatever you want. Maybe this one 5 is unloaded obviously, but you could have maybe two different trailers. Maybe you got a camper and a car hauler. You could name those and get your appropriate pressure for, for what you're using those for. So we're gonna go ahead and set one of these presets to see if it works, tap again to apply it says on the screen and there it goes. And it's actually climbing pretty fast. The bags are decent sized volume. I'd say probably pretty close to half a liter. So it's filling that up with air pretty quickly so, considering we got one on each side. All right, well, there we go. We aired up. Let's go ahead and take it back down to 5 we're unloaded and you can hear it exhausting the air out. We can see the pressure drop in real time there at the top. And there we go. Now, one of the things that's cool about this system is that it's a dual path so we can do left and right individually. So if you've got to uneven loads, you can go ahead and compensate for those. I feel like in most situations in your truck here, you're probably not gonna need to do that, but it's nice to have these feature. All right, now that we've got our app installed and everything we've verified that the whole system's working, we only have one more step really left. I want to go ahead and air this up. I put about 40 PSI in them and then we're just going to spray each fitting here and just verify that we don't have any leaks. We're looking for the presence of the bubbles and not like these little tiny white bubbles you see here and around there, we're looking for bubbles that are constantly being produced by air escaping from our system. So I don't see any here so we're good. We're gonna go head on back and check those T fittings and stuff, spray all of your connection points just to make sure we don't have any leaks. And that completes our installation of Air Lifts WirelessAIR compressor on our 2022 Ford F250 super duty..


Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.