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Roadmaster Automatic Battery Disconnect Installation - 2016 Chevrolet Colorado

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How to Install the Roadmaster Automatic Battery Disconnect on a 2016 Chevrolet Colorado


Today on our 2016 Chevrolet Colorado, we're going to be taking a look at, and installing the Roadmaster Automatic Battery Disconnect with Switch for Towed Vehicles With a Supplemented Braking System, part number RM-766. Here's what it looks like once it's installed on the vehicle. It's going to be this nice, easy to operate switch that's inside the cap of the vehicle. What this kit is going to do is, for vehicles that need to have the battery disconnected when in tow mode, this is going to make it really easy to do that because it's going to be as easy as a flip of a switch. What's nice about this battery disconnect over some of the more traditional ones is that this one doesn't require you popping the hood and going underneath the hood to disconnect the battery with the quick disconnect, but rather, it's as simple as hitting that switch, and you're disconnected. Then, when you're ready to take it out of tow mode, it's a simple as flipping the switch the other direction, and then your battery's reconnected. Here's the solenoid for the quick disconnect.

You've got one cable running to one side, and one cable that runs up to the other. They're going to be the same gauge as the factory cable that comes on the vehicle. It's going to have these three wires that come out the bottom, that run into the cab, and those are what is going to allow you to operate this through that switch. It features a 7.5 amp fuse that's going to help to protect the system. This kit is going to come with all the hardware necessary in order to install it. It gives you two different mounting options.

You've got self tapping screws that you can run into metal, or you've also got nuts and bolts in order to bolt it to anything that may be plastic. It'll just have a ground wire that you'll need to run along with that. Here you can see where our cables come up and make our connections. We've got this one that comes over to our stud, which replaced the factory cable that went there, and then the cable that goes to the battery, we've got going to this other cable, which we connected here, with a nut, bolt, and washers. Now that we've gone over some features, lets go ahead and show you how to install it. First thing we'll need to do is we'll need to find a good place to mount our solenoid.

When searching for a location to mount your solenoid, you'll want it to be under the hood, within reach of the battery, by our cables here, but the solenoid's going to need to be grounded, and you can do that by either tapping into metal, which we're going to be doing here. I already used the self tapping screws to tap out the holes, or you can mount it to something plastic, and you can use the nuts and bolts in order to do that. It comes with this white wire, with two terminal ends in order to ground it separately to something metal. On this one, we will be mounting it right here. I'll take my wires here, and I'll feed them up the direction that I want them to go, towards the battery, then I'll get it lined up with those holes and install my self tapping screws. My battery wires that'll be connecting, I just routed here along the side of the battery and just keep them tucked away.

Before we begin hooking up any of our terminals for our positive cable, we'll need to remove the negative battery cable so that we don't have any sparking accidents. Take a 10 millimeter socket, get that loosened up, and set it down to the side of the battery. Now we can pull our cover up here, and expose our connections for our positive cable. Where we're going to connect these cables, is going to be right here. We're going to connect it one, to this cable that goes down to the battery post. The another one that's going to bolt down in replacement of this, over this stud here. These cables are both labelled. One's labelled batter cable, and the other's labelled battery post. The battery post is going to be the one that goes directly to the battery. What we'll do, is we'll loosen this up with a 13 millimeter, and remove that. Now what I'm going to do is, over here on this side of this plastic cover, I'm going to cut a few small openings so that these cables can go out the side, and we'll still be able to shut this cover. For this one, I'll take the one labelled battery cable, and put it down over that stud, and reinstall the nut. For this one, the one labelled battery post, it's going to go to this cable that's coming directly from the battery post. With this one, the kit comes with this heat shrink tubing. We're going to need to slide that down over our cable before we make our connection. Now, for our connection, we can put our bolt through, and then between thee we'll need to put one of these star washers, and we'll put our cable down. Then on top, underneath the nut, we'll put the other star washer. Then we'll get our nut started onto the bolt. For that, we can use a 13 millimeter wrench and socket to tighten. Now, we can take our heat shrink and slide it over our connection. We want this heat shrink to completely cover all the metal components of our connection there. Once we've got it in place, we can take a heat gun, and the heat gun's going to work best. You can use other heat sources, but heat gun's definitely going to work the best for you. We'll heat that up in order to shrink it down, and that's going to help prevent corrosion on that connection in there, because moisture won't be able to get in there. Now, we've got our grey sheathed wires that we've got the red, white, and black wires inside. I went ahead and just took about an inch and a half, or so, off the end of one side. Now what I'll do, is I'll strip the ends of those wires back. Then, using my red, black, and blue wires that are coming off of my battery disconnect solenoid, I'm going to connect these to them. The black to black, red to red, and then white to blue. I'm going to use the butt connectors that came with the kit in order to do that. Now, I'll take electrical tape, and just wrap up each of these connections just to help prevent moisture from getting in there and possibly corroding inside our connector. The yellow wire that's coming off the bottom of our solenoid, we can just fold that over and tape it up, as it will not be used. I routed my wires. I routed them back, and you can follow the grey sheath there, of our three wires. It comes up over here, and then goes through that grommet, and then you can see where that grey wire came through the grommet in the firewall. Then, I'll remove this cover from underneath the steering column. Once you've removed the two 7 millimeter screws from the bottom, you can begin pulling towards the rear of the vehicle to release the clips. Now I'm going to disconnect the connectors for our lighting and four wheel drive controls. There's just a tab right there you push in, and pull the connector right out. On this one over here, that tab's on the bottom side. You can let this hang down. I used a step drill bit, in order to drill this hole out to 3/4 of an inch in order to allow our switch to fit through. This is where our switch will go, and I also drilled the hole right there, in order to be able to route our wires down to the switch. Now I'll secure my switch into my panel, here. I'll take my ridge nut and tighten it down. You just want to get that nice and tight by hand, since it is plastic, you don't want to over tighten that. Now we'll take our grey sheathed wires, and we'll cut those to the length we need, and we'll peel our sheath back. I'll strip the ends of my wires back and install my three red spade connectors that come in the kit. With my connections made here, I can put the white wire under the center of the switch and then we can put the black and red wires on the outside posts. Now, we're going to install our panel. Now we'll take our negative battery cable, and reattach it to the battery. Then we'll take our 7.5 amp fuse that comes with the kit, and we'll install it into the fuse holder that's on the bottom side of our solenoid. You'll want to do it in the one that's on the side that has the cable that runs to the battery post. With is all installed, and everything hooked back up, now we can test it to see which direction is going to be disconnected so we've got no power, and that'd be ready for tow mode, or which side is going to be battery engaged, so then it's ready for regular drive-ability. Put the key in. Let's flip it down. Try and start the truck. Got nothing, so let's flip it up. I can start the truck when I flip it up. When you hit up, that's going to be the drive position, and down's going to be the tow position. This is just a momentary toggle switch, so you'll just click it, and it'll click right back to center. The kit does come with a sticker to indicate drive mode, and tow mode, so you know which way to press it for each one. That's going to complete our look at, and installation of the Roadmaster Automatic Battery Disconnect with Switch for Towed Vehicles with Supplemental Braking System, part number RM-766, on our 2016 Chevrolet Colorado.


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