B and W Turnoverball Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2019 Ram 2500

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How to Install the B and W Turnoverball Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2019 Ram 2500


Rob: Rob here at etrailer.com. And today we're going to take a look at the B&W Turnoverball Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on our 2019 RAM 2500. Now our B&W Gooseneck Hitch is going to allow us to tow a Gooseneck Trailer and safely get down the road. But at the same time, whenever we're not towing our Gooseneck we can actually remove the ball and we'll have full bed access. And because of the design, we can actually store the ball inside the receiver tube here so we'll have a clean look and we won't have to worry about finding somewhere else to put the ball. Now, the ball on our Gooseneck is going to be a standard size.

It would be a 2 5/16, but the entire ball here has been machined out of one piece of steel. So it's going to have a really strong design to it and if you also noticed that it's actually going to be a square at the bottom rather than a circle, and that's because it's going to fit in to that receiver tube perfectly And there's less chance of the ball turning inside because the corners aren't going to allow it to turn.And whenever we go to put our ball in, we're not going to have to worry about which orientation, because we're going to have holes that go through each side. Whether we put it in this way or this way, that latch can still be able to go through and secure it down. And our hitch is going to come with two integrated safety cables. It is spring loaded, so when we use them, we as grabbing, pull them up and then whenever we're not tying them, this recess down in the bed, they won't be in the way.

As you can see we have plenty of room to get oversized hooks on there or take them off. And what I really like about our B&W Gooseneck is that we are going to be able to tow a gooseneck trailer with it, but there are a lot of other accessories that will fit directly into the receiver of our gooseneck.Say we have a fifth wheel and maybe when occasionally tow a fifth wheel, there's actually a companion fifth wheel hitch with an adapter that will go directly into the gooseneck so you don't have to worry about putting rails in. There's also a ladder rack from B&W that'll go right into the gooseneck. So we can actually leave our entire bed rails open. We don't have to worry about taking up that space.

And the operations to be extremely easy. We're going to have a handle over here on the driver's side wheel well that we can just pull out, push the handle towards the front of the cab. That will lock it in place and we can either remove the ball or put it in. Then when we want to lock the ball in place, we just push the handle towards the back lock into place and that'll lock that ball down. Now, obviously, if you're looking for a gooseneck trailer hitch, you either have a Gooseneck Trailer or you're looking to get one.So you need to know how much it can handle So as far as the weight rating goes, our hitch is going to have a 7,500 pound vertical load limit along with a 30,000 pound gross trailer weight rating.

But that is the rating for the hitch. So you do want to double-check your Ram's owner's manual and never exceed the manufacturer's recommended weight. Now, one thing I do want to mention that B&W does not recommend putting the ball in the stored position and driving like this if you have a shock absorber or a stabilizer bar directly above your rear axle. We look down, we can actually see the shock mount and the reason why we don't want to put it in a stored position while we're driving is because when the suspension starts moving, it can come in contact and potentially cause damage. But obviously we want to keep all the dirt debris and anything else out of our receiver tube hole so B&W has taken that into an account.They have a cover that you can put in place, whether you have the ball stored in or where you have the ball stored out and both of those are going to be available here at etrailer.com. As far as the installation goes, it is going to be really straightforward. We're only going to have to drill five holes, two for each one of the safety chains, and then obviously one for our ball to come through. But B&W has made it extremely easy to find these locations. They give you a couple of templates, so it's near impossible to drill in the wrong location. But let's go ahead and walk through the installation together so you can have the competence to do it yourself.To begin our installation. We want to come to the back of our Ram and we want to lower our spare tire down. Now it's not going to be necessary, but it's going to give us a lot more headroom so we can get underneath our truck. Next, we're going to want to remove our heat shield, that's going to be right behind our spare tire. We'll have several bolts on the inside here. We remove those. We use a 10 mm socket to pull those bolts out. There's actually going to be two more bolts holding our heat shield on. And it's going to be on this crossmember of rail right here. On the backside we're going to have one towards the end and then a one on the other side of it. We're going to have to reach around to get those bolts out. And we'll set this aside so we can reinstall it later.With the heat shield out of the way, that will expose our exhaust hanger. Now we want to remove the hanger from the rubber isolator so we have a little bit more room and the exhaust pipe isn't going to be right in the way. It's going to take a little bit of spray lubricant, spray it on the hanger. Then I'm going to take a pry bar and I'm going to use the exhaust pipe to pry against so I can get that rubber isolator to slide off and when we, we kind of always pull down and move her exhaust pipe, if we need to. So now we want to grab our template out of our kit, and we're going to come to the center that's directly above our rear axle. We'll have this oval hole. If we look forward, we're also going to have these ledges right here. We'll have a round hole towards the passenger side front.Well, the idea this template is that we want to line up this hole, this oval hole to the hole that is going to be towards the passenger front but we want to be on top of this plate here. So if we come in front of it, we lift it up, sliding it over the top. We're going to line it up with the hole right here and we'll see that it's not touching the bed yet. So we want to keep it in line and then push it up against the bed as high as we can get it to nice and flush. At the same time you want to make sure it's still lined up with the hole on the side here. Now, once it's nice and tight against the bed, you want to either grab a marker or something that you can make a mark through the small hole in the center there. Should use a paint marker.Now remove the template and we're going to drill out a pilot hole right there. Now I'm going to use a 1/4" drill bit to drill my pilot hole through the bed. Now we're going to come back after we have our pilot hole drilled and use a hole saw. So you want to make sure that you have a 3 1/2" hole saw available, or if you don't have one, you can use a saber saw, but you want to make sure you have a nice round hole once we've got a cut. Now we can begin move up top and enlarge the hole with the final size. Again, I'm going to use a 3 1/2" hole saw to drill out that hole and whenever you are doing it, you want to be just kind of careful. Go a little slow because you don't want your hole saw to start skipping around, scratching your bed.Once you have your hole cut, I'm going to clean up any metal shavings and don't track them underneath or in the inside of our truck. And I like to go back and I like to put a little bit of spray paint on the exposed edges that we hopefully it doesn't cause any rust or corrosion down the line. Now, since we don't have a bedliner, I just going to be using clear spray paint. But if you have a bedliner, either black or clear, basically whatever color, but this way it'll protect it, or we're not going to change the color of our bed. Now if we look underneath, we can see where our holes cut out and when we want to pay attention to our crossmember. We want to double check the inside and the outside of both the front and back, make sure there's no plastic fasteners, there's no lines or anything else attached to it.If it is you just want to get a flat blade, screwdriver, pop that clip out of the holes and move the lines temporarily for now. Now in our kit, we're going to have two of these plates. I'll have two nuts welded onto them and then on the bottom of the nut, we'll have this little flange. We want to put this above our crossmember. And if we look we're going to have several holes on each side. The two nuts are going to line up with the two outer holes here on each side of where we drilled and we want to slide this on top of the crossmember. Now it is a very tight fit. So you're going to want to come from the back or the front and if we look up at the bed, we'll see what we have a high spot and we have a low spot.If we started in a high spot, we'll have more room and we should be able to slide the plate in there. But again it's very limited. So you're just going to have to get a little creative on how you can swing that plate in there and getting it in. Once you get it past the crossmember, there is a little bit more room, so don't worry about it. You're getting stuck because once it gets above, we will be able to move it around. Once you have it in, above the crossmember, you can see you have plenty of room to move it. And I just want to get it as close as we can to line up with those holes so we can see the threads coming through.Now, we're going to have another one of those plates and the same holes on the other side of this crossmember plate. And we'll want to put that in as well. Now, we're going to get ready to put our center section in place, but it is rather heavy, so you may want to get an extra set of hands and I'd like to go over the combination of hardware just to hold it up before we get it in there. So we're going to lift it up. And these four holes that are on these flanges on our crossmember here. Those are going to line up with four holes that are in the hitch itself. We're going to use these large, black bolts, we'll go through the crossmember and into the hitch. And I'm going to be using it at least two of these nine locations, just to hold it up for now.So we'll grab our center section. You're going to make sure this little handle piece, it's going to have two square holes that needs to be going towards the driver's side and then we want to have the socket facing up. So we're going to lift it up. I want to start going over their exhaust and there are some lines in the back here so you want to be careful, push them down out of the way. Lift up the center section and you can see where those bolts are going to line up. I'm going to have an extra set of hands to at least put one bolt in there for me. So I don't have to worry about the hitch falling down.Now, we're going to use the same combination of hardware for all the remaining holes. The two on each side for the nut plates and the two on the front of our crossmember. You just want to be careful when you're starting these on the end here, cause you don't want that nut plate to turn and if it does, you very carefully want to turn it back so you can get both holes lined up. If you need to you can grab the top of the handle, maneuver it did whichever way you need to. It makes a little bit easier to get the bolts started. And once you have all your hardware loosely in place, you want to come back up at the top of the bed, double check that your hitch is centered in the hole that we drilled and we can go back underneath and tighten everything up. Now, when I go to tighten up our hardware, I'm going to tighten up the bolts that are going into those nut plates first, going vertically and use a 15/16" socket and it will help if you have a swivel and an extension.For the passenger side bolts that are going into that nut plate, it is going to be near impossible to get a tool on there with the exhaust in the way. So you can either get next to the hands and have them push and hold the exhaust towards the driver's side. But what I did is I took a ratchet strap, wrapped it around my tailpipe, and then you moved to just enough that I can get a tool to go straight up and attached to the bolts on here. But I will let you know, if you do have somebody holding it, it is extremely tight and you're probably better off using a strap. And we can come back and we tighten up our other bolts that are going through the flanges on our crossmember.Now you'll notice that it is pretty tight right here, and we're not going to be able to get a socket in just yet because our bolts are still sticking out. So I'm going to use a 24mm ratcheting wrench just to run these in a little bit further, until I can get a socket on there and run them down all the way. Now, I'm going to come back with that same 15/16" socket and a torque wrench and we're going to torque all my hardware down to the specified amount in the instructions. But I am going to torque the vertical bolts first, going into those plates. And then I'm going to come back and torque down the bolts that are going into the crossmember.At this point, we can go ahead and put back any wiring or lines, those plastic clips back on the rear crossmember here and we can remove the ratchet straps. Our exhaust can go back at least towards the passenger side, we don't have to hook it back up yet, but we can put it back in its original position. Now, we're going to move to the driver's side frame rail right above our rear tire. Now, if we look inside, we're going to see that we have some factory wiring held on by some clips to the top of the frame. Well, this is right where our handle is going to go for our gooseneck. So we need to remove this wiring and for now we're just going to undo the clips and then push it to the inside of the frame. I'm going to use a trim panel tool, just come underneath the clips, prime out of the frame and do that until we can get all the wiring loose and just push it to the inside.There should be a few clips holding everything in. Just push it out of the way for now, make sure it's not going to interfere with anything. This point we're going to grab our handle. Now we'll notice we're going to have four square holes in it that needs to get fed into the underside of our truck. But you want to make sure that you're clearing the wiring that's underneath there and that the handle is flipped up. We don't want to have our handle pointing down. We want to make sure that our handles flipped up and we clear the wires as we feed it in. Now we just want to have it resting in there right now. We don't really need to get it into position because we're going to go underneath and bolt everything out. So here's our handle, where it came through from the outside of the frame. You want to make sure you're clearing all those brake lines and electrical cables right here.So you want to grab our bracket. We're going to line up these two holes with our handle on the very end. We want to make sure we use the very furthest holes towards the end of the handle to bolt it up. So you want to make sure you clear the fuel tank strap right here, but you want to line up your handle with your bracket. And coming from the top, I'm going to drop down these carriage bolts through the handle and then make sure it goes through the bracket as well. Then on the other side, we're going to loosely secure a flange nut just tight enough just to make sure that the bracket will stay secure and it's not going to fall. Now we do have two holes so I'm going to put another carriage bolt and another flange nut in the other hole.Now, we'll see that we have a handle section here on the actual center section of our gooseneck. Those two holes line up with our handle bracket and we're going to use the same kind and combination of hardware. I'm going to pull the handle out just a bit, just enough to where I can get my carriage bolt to squeeze in. You just want to be careful. Watch your fingers. If you're pulling it out, you don't want it to come back and snap you. We'll drive our carriage bolts in, line up our bracket, pass the bolts through, and then use those same flange nuts, just loosely get them in place for now. And you just want to come back with a 9/16" socket and tighten up your bolts and torque them down to the specifications in the instructions.We'll come to the wheel well liner now and the handle is all hooked up. We'll grab the handle, pull outward, and we're going to push it towards the front of the truck. At this point, you want to move into the bed and we're going to grab the ball. However, we want to make sure that the handle is in and engaged so that the ball doesn't drop all the way down. So we should see that rod going through the hitch, but we'll just place the ball on top of the rod. And we're going to grab our Safety Chain U-Bolt Drill Kit Guide and we'll slide it over the ball and you want to make sure that the larger section is facing towards the tailgate.You'll see how it's just going to fit on there. And we'll have four holes, two on each side. We need to mark these two locations on each side so we can draw them out. I'm just going to use the template. I'm going to go through the cardboard and I'm just going to use my drill bit just to make a mark in these four locations just enough to know where I need to drill. Now, we can remove the template. We move the ball out of the way and we're going to drill out these four locations with a small drill bit to get our pilot hole started.Now, two of the locations are going to go through the bed, but we're also going to have to go through the crossmember. So the two holes towards the cab should go straight through, but then the two towards the back of the tailgate go through the bed and we'll feel it stop. You need to go through the crossmember as well, so you just want to go through with your pilot bit. Now, I'm going to come back with an 11/16" drill bit and enlarge all four holes to the final size.Now once you have all four holes drilled. It's a good idea to come back with some of that clear spray paint, so we won't get any rust on our bed. And we want to grab our U-bolts and we're going to drop them down through each set of the holes. Now we can see our U-bolts coming down through the hitch and we're going to take our springs. We're going to take the large end, feed it up and we're going to compress the spring enough, just sliding it past the end of the bolt.Compress it up enough, high enough that we can get a nut started on the bottom. But right now we just want to get this started hand tight, make sure that it's not cross threading or anything. Just get it started, and we'll do that for the rest of the remaining U-bolts coming down. Once you have all your nuts on your U-bolts and the springs in place. I'm going to grab a 15/16" socket, and we're going to tighten it up to where the nut is even with the bottom of the bolt. Just like that, and we're going to repeat that for all the remaining nuts we have.Now with our hitch, all torqued down and everything tight. We can start putting our exhaust and our heat shield back in place. Now I'm actually going to remove the entire rubber isolator off of the post which should be a little bit easier to put back on, rather than trying to fight that one post to slide it onto. I'm just going to take a pry bar. Pry the rest of the way off so I can get everything lined up and not have to fight it.Spray a little more lubricant on there and now I can line up all three of those just a little bit so I can get started and I'll use my pry bar to help get place. Once we have it started, should be able to push it back on by hand the rest of the way. Now we can just start putting all the hardware back for our heat shield, making sure everything lines back up. I like to get everything in loose by hand. That way, if I need to move it or make any adjustments, I still can. Just want to be mindful of this cable here, don't want to get trapped behind the heat shield. All we have to do now is put our spare tire back and that'll finish up your installation and you look at B&W Turnoverball Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on our 2019 Ram 2500..


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