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B and W Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2016 Chevrolet Silverado 2500

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How to Install the B and W Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2016 Chevrolet Silverado 2500


Today on our 2016 Chevrolet Silverado 2500, we're going to take a look at and also show you how to install the BMW turnover under bed gooseneck trailer hitch with the custom insulation kit. Rated for up to thirty thousand pounds, the part number is BWGNRK1016. Here's what our goose-neck's going to look like installed in the truck. When not in used this is what the goose-neck kit's going to look like. You can see it's about flush with the top of our bed rail here. Our safety chain connection points are down in the lower portion of the bed.

This is going to give us just about a flat surface all the way across, so we're not taking up any room out of our bed at all. It's a great feature to have. When we're ready to haul, simply turn our ball over. Of course we've got our release handle there on the outside, we'll pull that open. It allows us to bring up our two and five-sixteenths inch ball.

Now you can see the ball, it's fully machined out of one piece of material. This is going to give us superior strength, great durability, see the corrosion resistant finish, we're not going to have to worry about a lot of rusting and stuff like that. Now, we've got a vertical weight limit, or a load limit, of seventy-five hundred pounds. That's the maximum downward force we can put here on our ball. Then we've got a gross trailer weight rating of thirty thousand pounds, so that's going to be the weight of our trailer and anything that we might load up. Those ratings are supported with heavy duty steel construction here on the BMW.

They use great steel. It's got a heavy duty powder coat finish so we're to going to have to worry about that coming off anytime soon. The customer installation kits is great because it uses all existing holes in the frame, the only modifications that we're making at all to our truck are going to be here in the bed. The one four inch hole that we need to cut out, and then for each of our U bolts, we're going to cut out, or drill out, two half inch holes. You can see our handle here located very conveniently in the wheel well, it's going to be very easy to get to. What we'll do is just pull out on it, and rotate it and you see how it's going to hold it in in that locked position.

That's going to allow us to maneuver our ball however we want it, or whatever accessory we're using in our goose-neck. When it's in position, just a small rotation counter-clockwise there will be able to release that right back through our ball or our accessory, keeping it nice and secure for us. Now here you can see the custom installation kits that's going to come with the goose-neck. These are all going to use pre-existing weld nuts in the side of the frame. Then we're going to bolt it to our cross-rails, and then the head gets bolted to those cross-rails. This was one of the easier goose-neck installations that we've done. It's going to bolt right into position for you and we're not going to have to worry about any modifications to our frame whatsoever. Now we've started our install, you can see we've got our rear tires off the truck, we've pulled down our spare tire just to make it easier. Basically for you to see. The first part we're actually going to remove from the vehicle is going to be the heat shield. It just kind of sits up here near the area where we need to work. Right here on top of the frame, we've got two bolts that we're going to remove. For these we'll want a thirteen millimeter socket or a ratcheting wrench. Now there are a couple other bolts holding our heat shield in place. To get to those we're going to go underneath. Now we need to look right up above this round cross member closest to the rear of the truck. There's going to be one right on top of that, and then there's going to be one right on top of that front round cross member. Now let's just pull that out and we can set that aside. All right, now we're ready to get our hole put in the bed. Now, we want to measure this out nice and carefully. Look in the instructions, it's going to give you the exact measurement that you want to do from the rear of the bed. Our tape measure hooks right over the end. You will want to keep in mind if you've got any type of spray in bed liner, if it's a sixteenth thick, or an eighth thick, or a quarter thick, you need to adjust for that to get your hole in the right location here. Now we'll get this marked out. Now we want to measure from wheel well to wheel well. We're going to split that in half, it looks like it's going to have us right here in the middle of this rib. Now I'm going to take a center punch and mark that intersection right there. Now it's time to grab our four inch hole saw and get it drilled out. All right now we're back here on the passenger side wheel well area. You'll see the half channel that sits pretty much right in the middle. We want to go forward of that just slightly, so closer to the front of the truck. We need to cut out a little notch here. It's going to be a triangle shaped notch, it needs to be about three quarters of an inch deep, so it needs to go most of the way up and it needs to be about two inches wide. Now to make your cut you can use a high speed cut off wheel, you can use a hack-saw, whatever you've got handy there. All right, let's pull that down out of the way and that should give us the clearance that we're looking for. Now we can take our front cross member, you can see that that's going to be the one that is angled. Slide it right up over the frame well there. You can see how that hole gives us the clearance we need to actually get it in position. Now we want to be mindful and watch out for any electrical connectors, fuel lines, things like that. We want to get it to where it'll span both the passenger side and rest over on that driver side of the frame rail here. Now we're going to grab one of our bolts. This is the half inch, inch and a half long, so it's going to be the shorter of the half inch bolts. You'll see one hole all the way here on the outside. We're going to come in one from there, that bolt's going to be placed through, and we're going to use this O ring to hold it in place. Now we'll want to move this forward of our hole about six inches or so and you'll see it's going to be able to rotate up. The holes need to be towards the back. Now it's time for us to get our center section lifted into position. You can see the hole on it's kind of offset. We want that offset to be towards the rear of our truck. We'll guide it up into position, you may need somebody to hold down the exhaust while you try to work it in. For a little additional security, it's not a bad idea to place in one of our half inch bolts so we can get it through that center section. We're just going to place on a lock washer and one of the hex nuts. Now we're going to be putting our rear cross member into place. It's going to slide in in the exact same fashion that our forward one did. Now one thing you want to remember when putting this in, there's going to be a slight difference in the gap from the bolt hole up, and from the bolt hole down. It's not a big difference, but we do want the smaller gap to be towards the bottom. Something that I like to do is take a tap. This is a half inch by thirteen, and I like to go in each of these holes and clean them out. Take that bar, needs to be laid flat, and we just want to do the same thing we did with our forward rail. Get it to go all the way across, rest on both frame rails, and we can move it rearward and get it rotated up into position. Once we've got it positioned here where we want it, we want to rotate it to where it's standing upright. A crescent wrench can be helpful for that. See there, once it's in position it should move pretty freely for us so we can get all of our stuff attached. Now we're going to grab our half inch bolts, and we will need to get the front rail attached to our center section. Now we already had one in there for a little bit of security that you saw. We'll do that all the way across for all four hole locations. All right, now we're ready to attach our center section to our rear cross member. Here we're going to be using the half inch by two inch bolts. Place on a lock washer, a flat washer, then we're going to place them through the head and thread them into the holes that we talked about being sure that we kind of cleaned out previously. Now we're going to grab our side plate. It should slide up between our two rails and then it's going to line up with some existing weld nuts right here in our frame. We need to use one of our sixteen millimeter bolts, put a large flat washer and lock washer on it. We'll get those threaded in, now we can take another one of our half inch bolts. We want that to go into our side plate, thread into that rear cross member. Then in the front we're going to bring a bolt through, just like that. Place on a flat washer, our lock washer, and our nut. Now we can go over to the driver side and do that exact same thing. Now it's time to go through and snug down all of the bolts that hold our center section to our rails, so we're going to have eight of them. Now once we get these snug down, we need to look at our instruction, we'll find our torque specifications there. We're going to get them torqued down appropriately. Now we're ready to square the hitch up. We want to check this gap right here between the hatch channel. All right, it looks like that's going to be just about seven eighths of an in, so we'll check the other side. All right, now with those two numbers matching both here and on the other side. Back to the torque wrench, look in your instructions find your torque specs for these larger bolts and get them set. Now we'll head over and tighten down our passenger side as well. Now that we've got our larger bolts torqued down, let's move on to our half inch bolts here on the side plate, then we'll get those torqued down to our rails. Do that on our driver side as well. Now we need to get our safety chain connection points drilled out here. What we like to do is just kind of make a pilot hole from the bottom up to the top, that way we can drill down through. I'm just going to take a small drill bit here. We want to get as close to the center as we can. When we bring the larger bit through, it will kind of center it out, but we want to get as close as possible there. We're going to do that for all four of our locations. Now from the top, we want to use our half inch drill bit and drill our hole out in all four locations. Then we can drop through our U bolts on both sides. Now we'll head underneath and get the springs and nuts put on them. Now our springs, we just want to slide these up over the U bolts. You can see we've got our locking nuts, we want to get those threaded on. Then we can tighten these down and we just want them to be about flush with the end of the U bolt. That way they'll be nice and secure but still give us plenty of room for when we need to pull them up and make connections. Now we'll go over to the driver side U bolt and do the same thing there. Now we're ready to bring in our handle. You can see the kind of a U shape here. We're going to pass it through there, and then once we get to the center section there's going to be another cutout U shape that we'll want to turn our handle and pass it through. Just going to bring this on through, then we can look at the end of the spring here that's wrapped around the pin. There's going to be a small area right there, it's got a square hole on it. We're going to place the five-sixteenths inch carriage bolt right through there, just like that. It's also gone through our handle. We've got our locking nut here, we're going to thread that on the other side, then using a thirteen millimeter here we can just snug that down. It's a locking flange nut, so we don't have to worry about over tightening it, it's going to hold it's place and we don't want to deform that eyelet. Now if you've removed your spare tire or your rear wheels you can go ahead and get those put back into position. We're ready to drop the ball in the top and start enjoying our truck. That's going to complete our installation of the BMW turnover ball under bed goose-neck trailer hitch with the custom installation kit, part number BWGNRK1016, on our 2016 Chevrolet Silverado 2500.


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