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B and W Companion Underbed Kit Installation - 2016 GMC Sierra 2500

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How to Install the B and W Companion Underbed Kit on a 2016 GMC Sierra 2500


Today on our 2016 GMC 2500 we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the BMW custom underbed installation kit for BMW companion 5th wheel trailer hitches, part number BWGNRK1016-5W. This is the 5th wheel installation kit designed to let you use your BMW companion 5th wheel trailer hitch. The adapters are part number BWRVK3500, or BWRVK3400. The underbed design of this kit allows for full truck bed access when you're ready. It's under 5 minutes to convert your empty truck bed into a 5th wheel hitch. We'll start off by unlocking our BMW hitch and installing the 5th wheel adapter.

We have ours preassembled, but you can adjust the uprights here depending on the truck and trailer combination. At this point the hitch is ready to attach to a trailer. There's a clip here that you release as a safety pin, then you'll swing the handle out and you can watch the jaws open. Now you're ready to back onto your trailer. Once you secure onto your trailer you can reinstall the clip, and since this 5th wheel installation kit doubles as a goose neck hitch, when you're not towing your 5th wheel you can remove it. It's going to free up the hole, and you can reinsert your hitch ball, and now you can tow your goose neck trailer.

Let's go ahead and show you how simple it is to install. We've gone ahead and dropped down our spare tire, and the next thing we're going to do, is we're going to remove these inner fender well wires, if your vehicle's so equipped. I'm using a T15 torques 00:01:42, it's going to be 13 screws that hold them in. Be 2 on the back side, going to be 3 along the top, and we're going to have a couple down the sides here. We'll go ahead and remove all of those screws. Set this aside for reinstallation at a later time.

Now there starts out around the way, this part is completely optional, but it does give you a little bit more room to work under here. We're going to go ahead and take out this heat shield as well, with 2 13mm bolts. We'll set this aside for later. Now our next step's going to be to remove this heat shield here. We have one bolt at the top of the frame in the back here, one up here in the front on top.

There's going to be 2 one the side that we can get from the outside once we lower down the vehicle, so go ahead and take these 2 out with a 13mm wrench. Now from the passenger side we'll have 2 more screws right here. I bolt 00:03:02. Now I can move to the bottom side and take out our heat shield. We can just set this aside. Now we're going to lower our exhaust down a little bit, and we're going to start by taking out these inaudible 00:03:20 isolators. There are going to be one back here, 2 in the front, and one a litter further ahead of that. We'll take a safety strap, just to support it while I loosen it up. Our vehicle's new and it still has a little bit of grease on these gromits, but if your vehicle inaudible 00:03:40 miles on it, you might want to take a little bit of spray lubricant and spray it up so it'll slide off a little easier. Just push on the side inaudible 00:03:50 Now we can lower down our safety straps. That gives us just enough clearance to get our inaudible 00:04:04 installed in there. Now we want to mark down our drill mark. Make sure you use the mark for either a long bed or a short bed, depending on what you have. Per our instructions we're going to go ahead and mark it out from the back edge to the center point, where we want to go, and then we want to go from the center of the vehicle. We've determined that's going to be the center point of our vehicle. Now we're going to take a 4" hull 00:04:36 saw and we're going to drill down through the bed. Once we have our hole, we're going to clean up our area, we'll file out the edges from the bottom side, then we can take some black touch up paint and cover up all of our bare metal, to ensure we're not going to have any corrosion problems. Now our next step, we're going to have to cut a V to be able to get our hardware through there, so we're going to measure forward of this channel here on the passenger side, about 2", and we're going to go ahead and cut a notch. What I'm going to do is make 2 cuts. I'm going to go up here, and up on this side, and we can fold this piece up. When we're done we'll just fold it back down, and our fender liner will cover everything up. Now we can take a saws off 00:05:44. We're going to cut up. We'll take a pair of pliers, we'll tap that out of the way. The first thing we're going to put in is going to be our front cross member. It's going to be the piece of channel iron with the 2 notches on the ends. There's a bigger notch on one side that's going to be for our passenger side. We're going to slide that . Then we're going to take it and slide it to the front. Go on the other side, we'll slide it forward. Now it's going to clear over the top of our fuel tank and our lines, so we'll have to push them gently out of the way. Want to make sure we push it as far forward as we can for now, then we're going to slide in our rear channel. Our rear cross member is a solid steel plate with pre-threaded holes. It's always a good idea to take your bolt and run it down through those, make sure there's no powder coat locking up the holes. You can see here, the holes are offset from the center, so you're going to want to place the bar in there with the holes to the bottom side. I went ahead and put an arrow on the end - it's going to help us orient it once it's in the vehicle, so we don't make any mistakes. Slide your bar in. Now we'll take a crescent wrench; it's going to help us in turning up this bar. This is going to hit the floor a little bit as it goes up. Once it's up into place we're going to slide it all the way back. We'll do that on both sides. Now our front cross member, we're going to be using the shorter of the half inch bolts. This one here on the driver's side all the way at the end, we're going to slide that one in right now before we put our center section in. We'll take this supplied O ring and we're going to roll it down over it. It's going to help hold that bolt in place, because we won't really have access to it, since it's over the top of the gas tank, once the center section is in place. We've installed our lifting device that's hanging down through the hole. If you don't have one, if you have a cherry picker, or you can get a couple of blocks with a board across the top and a rope - just something to suction 00:08:17 up into place as we start to attach it. Now we'll get a second set of hands and we're going to set this up into place and attach it to our lifting device. Now we can go to the bottom side and start attaching our bolts. Before we start putting our bolts into our brackets up there, on our front cross member we're going to have a 1/2" diameter by 1 1/2" bolt that's going to slide through our bracket. On the other side it's going to have a split lock washer and a nut. On the rear cross member we're going to have this 1/2" by 2" long bolt. It'll get a lock washer and a flat washer, and it threads into the rear cross member because it is actually threaded into, where this one's going to pass through. We're going to start by putting in our long bolts at the rear. We'll slide this forward, and we start by sliding our bolt through the hole. We'll install all 4 of the rear ones first. Now we'll take our crescent wrench and we're going to roll up our front bracket. We're going to slide it through, lining up the bolt on the passenger side. We're going to put one of the bolts through, and you want to take care when you're pushing it back up there that you don't knock that bolt out that we put in with the O ring earlier - want to make sure you put the lock washer and the nut on the inside. The last one we'll get is going to be the one with the O ring on it. Then we're going to hand tighten all of our bolts. We want to get them all drawn up to the outside of our center section, so we can make sure everything lined up properly. We're using a 3/4" ratcheting wrench. I'm just going to snug them all down by hand, then we'll work our way out to the end plate. You don't want to tighten these too tight, because you might have to shift it one way or the other. You snug them down. Now our side plates are going to be attached to the frame using these factory weld nuts that are already in the frame. Going to be 16mm bolts, by about 1 1/2". We'll have a lock washer and a flat washer. It's a good idea to clean out some of this undercoating to make the bolt run a little easier. If you don't have a nylon tubing brush, you can pick one up on our website, part number 814092. Clean out the 2 centered holes, take our bracket, slide it up into place, we'll put in our 16mm bolt. That's one of the reasons you don't want to tighten up our center section too tight just yet, because we want to be able to have some adjustment here to get the rest of our bolts into place. Now we're going to take one of our 1/2" by 1 1/2" long bolts, we're going to slide it through the front side. We'll place a flat washer followed by a split lock 00:11:36 washer, and a nut. We'll make that one hand tight as well, run it down. For the rear one we're going to take another one of those bolts with a flat washer and a lock washer in place, and we'll run that bolt down as well. We'll repeat the same process for the driver's side as well. Now we can start tightening our center section bolts. Next step's going to be torque them down to the specifications in our instructions. Now with our bracket still loose on the side here, we measured from the front of this hat 00:12:28 channel to the front edge of this rear cross member to make sure they're equal on both sides - that way we know our hitch is going to be in the truck square. Then we can take a 15/16 socket and we're going to run these down. We do that on both sides. Now we'll torque to the specifications that are in our instructions. We're going to do the side planks first, and the last thing we'll torque down is these two 1/2" bolts on the side here. Once we have those torqued down, as well as the other side, we're going to bend those tabs back down - we'll be ready to put our fender liner back in place. Since this is going to be hitting by our fender liner we're going to take some black paint. We're going to touch it up - that way we won't have any corrosion issues. Now one of the last things we're going to have to do is install our safety chain hooks. We're going to use a 1/2" drill bit to mark out our holes. It's going to help center up our hole. We'll do that to all 4 of them. Once we have them centered, we're going to take a small drill bit and we'll drill up from the bottom side. We'll drill out our inaudible 00:13:57 holes. That way I can go up from the inside of the bed and we're going to drill down through with our 1/2" drill bit. Now we'll clean up our area and we can drop our safety chain loops down through. We take our hooks - want to make sure they go up and down easily. Now we go to the bottom side and install the springs and nuts. On the bottom side we're going to have the spring - it's going to have a larger diameter ring on one side. We're going to put the larger side up, and we'll take the locking nuts that are supplied with them. We'll start right around 00:14:49 there. Do the same thing on the other side, and we'll repeat it for the other side. We want to round these up until you just start to see the treads come out the bottom side, and that'll be tight enough. Too much. These are locking nuts, so they won't come loose. Now we're going to take our handle from the driver's side, we're going to slide it through - you want to run it in until it's just in front of our locking bar. Take the supplied carriage bolt, we're going to place it through, then we'll swiff 00:15:40 our handle up on the other side, and we'll install the locking nut that comes with the bolt. We're going to take a 13mm socket and we're going to run this down. Make it nice and snug - still want to be able to have a little bit of flex in it. Now with our exhaust drawn back up into place, we can slide our inaudible 00:16:10 back in. We can lower down our safety strap, and our exhaust is resecured. Now we can reinstall our heat shield with our 2 bolts. Now the heat shield we removed over the top of the exhaust there will not be reinstalled, as it's not going to fit with our goose neck installed. Take a 13mm and we'll tighten these back up. Now we can reinstall our fender liners, and swiff them up over the tire. We'll tuck in the ends, and reinstall our screws. Now we can move on to the other side. This side's going to have the handle to contend with, so we're going to get it up into place, and we're going to have to cut a little notch in there. Now we can reinstall the screws on this side, and this side will be done as well. That's going to do it for our look at and install of the BMW custom underbed insulation kit for BMW companion 5th wheel trailer hitches, part number VWGNRK1016-5W on our 2016 GMC 2500.


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